Need help adjusting to LED

CheGueVapo said:
One thing i find funny is the meaning of LED.... "light emitting device". The HIDs are light emitting devices, dont they? :D
Having it been a chip doesnt mean a thing, it depends on so much, but not the way its been crafted. Still its all the same... PAR canons, but they are not the same.... White light LED is not the same than Purple-light LED..... and if you could get the same spectrum out of an iascendant or and flourescent... what does it matter!? Technically not. It's just radiation.... it does not differ. The sun is nut special, it's the same radiation.... the tricks lays in this vast wavelength bandwidth and so much energy that we have no clue about what it actually does in plants :)

We must try and try... so we succeed at last.
I love this song :)
Click to expand...

Bahahaha the master grower doesn’t even know what LED stands for?
 
Have you ever fired 1000 from the start? :D
No problem here!
Veg I go 700...

Check the DLI to be +40!!!

BE A MAN
 
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its totally senseless... 800µmol but "1200-1500ppm" CO² enrichment....

If you would have had that CO² you would want go +1000 to take efficient use of the enriching measures...
 
What? Such plans... including that from Osram came from people that have no clue what cannabis is capable of. They switch to 12h... reducing the DLI greatly and slowly increase that in fear to burn the leafs.... thats totally pointless.

You dont need CO² to switch from 18h 700µmol to 12h 1000µmol and have fast and intense flowering introduction without this unneccesary growth inhibtion due to lack of light.

What you need is a good root-zone... and it goes like: "THANK YOU!" and grows like cancer!

1000µmopl 13hours some FR after =
Result: DLI = 46.80

.... normal CO²..... works from day 1!
 
Thats correct. Anyhow it doesnt matter for the light or the plant, if it came from a burning plasma ball in space, or from electrical power send through a diode or through any other thing that it converts the energy into photons. It is not an aspect that matters or makes the light itself distinguishible from each other..... if you only have the light but don't see the "device" type... you have no clue if it is a diode or whatever... all are just devices that emitt light of the same type, we must qualify and quantify the spectrum to tell WHAT it does...... still we cant tell from that, whats the device craft. We could make heuristic assumptions, but we cant tell for sure what the device actually is, if we dont know it. Its the quantity and spectrum that makes the sun on earth so unique and functionable, not the fact that it came from outter space or is a "special" light. Its just all kinds of known radiation in a mix... life adopted to that! That makes it so special in function! We want to know what drives these functions, wich wavelengths, which dose of it! Try and Error, thats all we can do, to riddle it out! Infrared and Near-Infrared are key wavelengths because they transfer heat onto and through the plant and get absorbed by water in deeper structers that not get accessed by PAR-light, therefore driving transpiration and deeper metabolism at better temperatures of the bigger fruits.

Scientists usually dont see that focusing so much on the leaves and only the net-photosynthesis. Some people dont even realize, that the growwth is an exponential growth-function per day, with the actual growth happening in the darkphase. So we need pragmatic approach. What actuals helps in getting the desired crop yield and quality higher, not just "leaves". Its really big complexity that we still need a lot of technological improvement! Its not enough to build high efficient chips... what about the fixtures... what about effectiveness of the light... your light can be ultraefficient, but zero effective! Try only royalblues.... dont work. Try only 550nm... dont work.... its not effective..... all day we want to fidn out whats effective, not just efficient.

Our lamps get more and more effective, no matter if the the efficiency soon going to stall! Because we are not very effective now. Theres lot of room to improve on!
 
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I asked a lot of questions before I made the move to LED and I have not had a problem yet. The biggest issues I needed to solve were the VPD and PPFD readings under LED. I needed to know all the chart readings for PPFD and VPD for the light I was going to purchase.

The humidity and light levels were key to understanding what you need to do first. So I purchased a cheap PPFD meter and some Inkbird temp and humidty meters and set them up under my new LED lights and took readings. Day and "night" temps and humidity readings as well as PPFD readings at certain heights.

I wrote all of this down and only then did I put a full tent of plants inside. I knew the humidity levels would rise and I was prepared for that.

I use R/O water so the nutes (Dyna-Gro) I use already have extra calcium and magnesium. So I have not needed it since my switch to LED.

I DID give Roots Organic Calmag a try but I didn't need it and it wound up messing up my plants a bit before I caught it.

I run my lights @600 watts and let the plants grow up to them. I try to keep them at least a foot away or they will get too much ppfd and bleach the tops.

Not sure if you did these things when you switched because you didn't mention it. Just trying to give you some ideas.
 
It depends on the ambient. In colder regions than where cannabis originated, its usefull.
Because the exponential daily growth at the same light intensity increases when the metabolism in the leafs and the buds is in the optimum range.

If you already have high temperature at your region, you want the lowwer LST temps of the LED... but if you are in northern america or northern europe... 20-21°C ambient most of the year... damn you want any +1°K in the leafs and buds you can get, because thats to cold.

Increasing the light intensity of ANY type of light works doing that. Because the more the light increase, the more photons get NOT absorbed of it for photosynthesis thus heating the leafs....

Still real extra Infrared and extra Near-Infrared have good effects. The effect is called "greenhouse effect".

Of course you dont want a greenhouse effect when you are already trying to grow in the death valley.

Thats "WHY"
 
CheGueVapo said:
It depends on the ambient. In colder regions than where cannabis originated, its usefull.
Because the exponential daily growth at the same light intensity increases when the metabolism in the leafs and the buds is in the optimum range.

If you already have high temperature at your region, you want the lowwer LST temps of the LED... but if you are in northern america or northern europe... 20-21°C ambient most of the year... damn you want any +1°K in the leafs and buds you can get, because thats to cold.

Increasing the light intensity of ANY type of light works doing that. Because the more the light increase, the more photons get NOT absorbed of it for photosynthesis thus heating the leafs....

Still real extra Infrared and extra Near-Infrared have good effects. The effect is called "greenhouse effect".

Of course you dont want a greenhouse effect when you are already trying to grow in the death valley.

Thats "WHY"
Click to expand...

So with my setup I’m prone to cooler conditions during the coming winter. Can I simply run the LED at lower wattage to compensate for the lower temps?

I hope I can sort this out using 50% minimum as below that the light loses spectrum apparently and that ain’t good in my view
 
scenarios.jpg
Check the middle-left one. Increasing the light intensity increases the Leaf-temperature relative to the ambient. Decreasing the intensity decreases it BELOW ambient.... thanks to the vapor chill effect, which still cools the leaf at low intensities.
 
CheGueVapo said:
View attachment 5001552
Check the middle-left one. Increasing the light intensity increases the Leaf-temperature relative to the ambient. Decreasing the intensity decreases it BELOW ambient.... thanks to the vapor chill effect, which still cools the leaf at low intensities.
Click to expand...

Looks like I’ll have to switch out the LED after this run and put the trusty old MH/HPS setup in.

Windy cold winter days it’s hard to keep the room above 65 where the tent is in. Even with central heating, a space heater and a tubular space heater.

Least I can grow all year now and just use the LED for summer
 
Some people keep growing 500ppfd and wondering about low leaf temperature then trying anything to heat the air for better metabolism.... mainly for the reason to save electricity on the lights, i dont know why they dont just increase the light and have it done, thats so easy. In the end one should consider all energy costs. HID/HPS are good for winter, no doubt, absolutely agree, they are really effective when excess heat radiating is wanted.
 
Nutty sKunK said:
Looks like I’ll have to switch out the LED after this run and put the trusty old MH/HPS setup in.

Windy cold winter days it’s hard to keep the room above 65 where the tent is in. Even with central heating, a space heater and a tubular space heater.

Least I can grow all year now and just use the LED for summer
Click to expand...
I was planning on doing the same until I harvested my first crop under LEDs yesterday. The yield seems so much more massive, and for 130 fewer watts. I might not go back to my CMH at all now even though I love the light during the winter. I'm drying now, but I think I might have gotten an extra lb over my CMH.
 
Rurumo said:
I was planning on doing the same until I harvested my first crop under LEDs yesterday. The yield seems so much more massive, and for 130 fewer watts. I might not go back to my CMH at all now even though I love the light during the winter. I'm drying now, but I think I might have gotten an extra lb over my CMH.
Click to expand...
No one will believe you...................................until they do it the right way for themselves.
 
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