UK growers? Prepayment costs ? Advice

Kushthemagictree

Well-Known Member
Just wondering how many UK growers over here on rollitup, how you finding cost’s for electric and are you monthly bill or prepayment meter or smart meters..( i’m staying clear of smart meter ) any info and advice handy for all. Feel welcome to share tips for UK growers to keep costs down ( i’ll be running leds as a little more and a little less on watts )
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
Just wondering how many UK growers over here on rollitup, how you finding cost’s for electric and are you monthly bill or prepayment meter or smart meters..( i’m staying clear of smart meter ) any info and advice handy for all. Feel welcome to share tips for UK growers to keep costs down ( i’ll be running leds as a little more and a little less on watts )

For a
400w HPS
6” extractor fan
Dehumidifier
Oscillating fans
Tubular heater
Humidifier
Hydro system


I pay approx £40 a month on top of my normal monthly direct debit.

I use an app to deliver my meter readings and keep saying no thank you to a smart meter.
 

Kushthemagictree

Well-Known Member
For a
400w HPS
6” extractor fan
Dehumidifier
Oscillating fans
Tubular heater
Humidifier
Hydro system


I pay approx £40 a month on top of my normal monthly direct debit.

I use an app to deliver my meter readings and keep saying no thank you to a smart meter.
Thanks for reply mate! Doesnt sound too bad, mines mega ( costs per kwh ) think i’m on a higher tariff with still having a PPM installed but refusing the smart meter for ovbious reasons.

i plan on running two tents, HGL 600 watt LED in one, spider farmer sf4000 in other and then a veg light seperate to both, still undecided on veg light. Will be using a single fan for exhaust for both tents.
Think its around 24.0p kwh for a daily rate snd half that for night rate looking at EDF costs.
i’ll be looking at filling both the 4X4 with a scrogg net to maximise grow space and get every thing i can out of both.
I havnt even worked the mothly cost as of yet :roll::wall:
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
I’m in the process of switching to LED 300w to replace the 400w HPS setup.

So will update if I realise this reduces my payments. But with most increasing this year in October I’m not expecting much of a saving more a “stay the same” cost even though I’m reducing overall wattage.


Everyone loves pics so I’ve added some lol.
311DD226-8445-440B-8981-95CD7880CF0D.jpeg09357818-B620-4785-85CD-47ACAD313D8F.jpeg39670DF6-B3A1-4D8E-A060-50B7D3B7F1EE.jpegC7BA4777-D13E-49E0-9A79-700B6CC9B661.jpeg62ECB76B-37B2-428D-A63D-D0FC0876B357.jpeg
 

Flowki

Well-Known Member
Thanks for reply mate! Doesnt sound too bad, mines mega ( costs per kwh ) think i’m on a higher tariff with still having a PPM installed but refusing the smart meter for ovbious reasons.

i plan on running two tents, HGL 600 watt LED in one, spider farmer sf4000 in other and then a veg light seperate to both, still undecided on veg light. Will be using a single fan for exhaust for both tents.
Think its around 24.0p kwh for a daily rate snd half that for night rate looking at EDF costs.
i’ll be looking at filling both the 4X4 with a scrogg net to maximise grow space and get every thing i can out of both.
I havnt even worked the mothly cost as of yet :roll::wall:

I guess you are using two separate flower tents for spacing reasons so it is what it is.

The issue you will have in linking both tents is if you try to link them in series. You need to use a Y splitter to pull air out from both separately. This is because if you pull air from one, to the next, the last tent will have to take all the humidity and heat from the first flower tent. That could be very bad for either tent for many reasons. When it is warmer outside, you will have to run the fan so hard to lower temp/humidity in last tent, that the first tent runs at a constant lower temp, and that will hurt ambient, canopy, root temps and humidity of the first tent. Also, if you have any mold problems in the first tent, the second tent gets it too. In winter all of the cold air has to pass thorugh the first tent, so that means it will never do as well as the last tent due to temps.

Connecting a veg tent to a flower tent is not near as bad, since you don't get mold in veging plants, passing it to the flower tent, or not that I am aware of. Veg tents can also take a lot more heat and humidity so you have more room to play with in warmer days. Perpetual in this way also saves on needing seeds, just cuttings from cuttings. Veg tent temps can be a little lower becuase of this, however their are ways to fix that. It will slightly impact veg growth none the less, but saves on having completely individual tents, requiring double of the equipment.

If you decide to keep going with dual flower tents I personally recommend this. Use a Y splitter onto a 8" out-take, german out-take fans are good. Make sure tubing is same length to both tents, and same elevations etc. This will help ensure equal flow. Use passive intakes, but ensure they are the same in both tents, again for equal flow (I assume both tents are the exact same size/brand also?). If that is true, then you can do this.

By a volt step fan speed operator, and also buy an ink-bird temp control unit. Both tents need the exact same heating system, or should be in the same room with the exact same ingoing heat. This is important as you are trying to get 2 for one here from the volt and ink controller.

The inkbird will read the temp in one tent (hopefully the other is very similar range) and it will only turn on the out-take if the temp gets to your high range. The Volt step controller then controlls the big 8 inch fan, where you can set it's min and max speed (setting 1-5). Setting both min and max to 2, will mean when the out take kicks in, it will reduce temp and humidity slowly. The ink-bird will then shut off the fan when the lower temp is reached. The ink-bird also has the heating option, if temp goes too low it will switch to your heaters. This automation means your out-take and heaters are not running 24/7, and saves a hell of a lot of W. It also means you use more of your light heat.

The volt stepper and ink-bird will set you back around £300. However it will pay off very quickly. I can only roughly guess that it will save 20 to 30% of heating and out-take W, for ever. However you still need around 1k of heating potential, 500W per tent or 1k for room. You do need to account for the coldest months at lights off. Do not cheap out on lights off heating ability. You may be able to get away with 300W per tent, it really depends on were your room is, and what upper temps you wish to run. With Led you really want an ambient around the 80F range. Some go higher, some lower, but 80F is my minimum recommended.

Humidity control is a whole other factor. I don't know how you will achieve this with two flower tents, not withought requiring 2 de-huey. You can't put them outside tents in the above situation. Although you could work with an independent 4 or 6 inch circulation ''intake'' fan between the two tents and the room (single de-huey in the room). That will circulate humidity through tents/room and is probably the cheapest all in way you will be able to do it. Unless somebody has a better idea.
 
Last edited:

Flowki

Well-Known Member
I’m in the process of switching to LED 300w to replace the 400w HPS setup.

So will update if I realise this reduces my payments. But with most increasing this year in October I’m not expecting much of a saving more a “stay the same” cost even though I’m reducing overall wattage.


Everyone loves pics so I’ve added some lol.
View attachment 4978563View attachment 4978564View attachment 4978565View attachment 4978566View attachment 4978567
Well just be careful, the problem with reducing Watts is you also reduce ambient tempts or canopy leaf temps, and have to compensate for that with more heating W, or else the plants do not grow as well. So you save in W but lose in yield.
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
Well just be careful, the problem with reducing Watts is you also reduce ambient tempts or canopy leaf temps, and have to compensate for that with more heating W, or else the plants do not grow as well. So you save in W but lose in yield.

Don’t worry mate it’s not my first rodeo lol.

Been growing since 2009 mate.

I run temp controlled fan speed controllers, dehuey, tubular heater for colder weather.

Currently running external intakes which will be altered to intake from the house (ambient heat) when the LED is in use.
 

Kushthemagictree

Well-Known Member
I’m in the process of switching to LED 300w to replace the 400w HPS setup.

So will update if I realise this reduces my payments. But with most increasing this year in October I’m not expecting much of a saving more a “stay the same” cost even though I’m reducing overall wattage.


Everyone loves pics so I’ve added some lol.
View attachment 4978563View attachment 4978564View attachment 4978565View attachment 4978566View attachment 4978567
Nice mate!!! What make Quantom board you running ? And yeah mate space and also the extra added eclosure, the rooms about 5x11 foot i was going to veg in the 4x4 but lighting requirements and exhausting out would of been an issue ( noise wise ) so i went with 2 x 4X4 side by side and silent extractor on a dial and i’ll veg on the open space outside tents
 

Flowki

Well-Known Member
Don’t worry mate it’s not my first rodeo lol.

Been growing since 2009 mate.

I run temp controlled fan speed controllers, dehuey, tubular heater for colder weather.

Currently running external intakes which will be altered to intake from the house (ambient heat) when the LED is in use.
Ah I see, sorry to assume. Yeah defo a good plan on the intake, for mold too.
 

Kushthemagictree

Well-Known Member
I guess you are using two separate flower tents for spacing reasons so it is what it is.

The issue you will have in linking both tents is if you try to link them in series. You need to use a Y splitter to pull air out from both separately. This is because if you pull air from one, to the next, the last tent will have to take all the humidity and heat from the first flower tent. That could be very bad for either tent for many reasons. When it is warmer outside, you will have to run the fan so hard to lower temp/humidity in last tent, that the first tent runs at a constant lower temp, and that will hurt ambient, canopy, root temps and humidity of the first tent. Also, if you have any mold problems in the first tent, the second tent gets it too. In winter all of the cold air has to pass thorugh the first tent, so that means it will never do as well as the last tent due to temps.

Connecting a veg tent to a flower tent is not near as bad, since you don't get mold in veging plants, passing it to the flower tent, or not that I am aware of. Veg tents can also take a lot more heat and humidity so you have more room to play with in warmer days. Perpetual in this way also saves on needing seeds, just cuttings from cuttings. Veg tent temps can be a little lower becuase of this, however their are ways to fix that. It will slightly impact veg growth none the less, but saves on having completely individual tents, requiring double of the equipment.

If you decide to keep going with dual flower tents I personally recommend this. Use a Y splitter onto a 8" out-take, german out-take fans are good. Make sure tubing is same length to both tents, and same elevations etc. This will help ensure equal flow. Use passive intakes, but ensure they are the same in both tents, again for equal flow (I assume both tents are the exact same size/brand also?). If that is true, then you can do this.

By a volt step fan speed operator, and also buy an ink-bird temp control unit. Both tents need the exact same heating system, or should be in the same room with the exact same ingoing heat. This is important as you are trying to get 2 for one here from the volt and ink controller.

The inkbird will read the temp in one tent (hopefully the other is very similar range) and it will only turn on the out-take if the temp gets to your high range. The Volt step controller then controlls the big 8 inch fan, where you can set it's min and max speed (setting 1-5). Setting both min and max to 2, will mean when the out take kicks in, it will reduce temp and humidity slowly. The ink-bird will then shut off the fan when the lower temp is reached. The ink-bird also has the heating option, if temp goes too low it will switch to your heaters. This automation means your out-take and heaters are not running 24/7, and saves a hell of a lot of W. It also means you use more of your light heat.

The volt stepper and ink-bird will set you back around £300. However it will pay off very quickly. I can only roughly guess that it will save 20 to 30% of heating and out-take W, for ever. However you still need around 1k of heating potential, 500W per tent or 1k for room. You do need to account for the coldest months at lights off. Do not cheap out on lights off heating ability. You may be able to get away with 300W per tent, it really depends on were your room is, and what upper temps you wish to run. With Led you really want an ambient around the 80F range. Some go higher, some lower, but 80F is my minimum recommended.

Humidity control is a whole other factor. I don't know how you will achieve this with two flower tents, not withought requiring 2 de-huey. You can't put them outside tents in the above situation. Although you could work with an independent 4 or 6 inch circulation ''intake'' fan between the two tents and the room (single de-huey in the room). That will circulate humidity through tents/room and is probably the cheapest all in way you will be able to do it. Unless somebody has a better idea.
Temps be fine and easy enough to manage, plus i’m in the uk so temps outside not exactly high, y splitter on order dont plan on extractong from one tent in to the other.. room temps easy enough to manage also with a oil rad, never had issues with the previous grows temps wise.
Only thing i’m in two minds about is the SF4000 ( spider farmers ) fancy playing with some lower watts and see what i can pull, be running along side a HGL 600 and i like a good challange.
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
Nice mate!!! What make Quantom board you running ? And yeah mate space and also the extra added eclosure, the rooms about 5x11 foot i was going to veg in the 4x4 but lighting requirements and exhausting out would of been an issue ( noise wise ) so i went with 2 x 4X4 side by side and silent extractor on a dial and i’ll veg on the open space outside tents

It’s a 4 bar LED. Quantum boards are a square board with LED’s etc mounted to the board right?

This isn’t a QB as far as I’m aware.


It’s the @MarsHydrofactory FC3000
 

Flowki

Well-Known Member
Temps be fine and easy enough to manage, plus i’m in the uk so temps outside not exactly high, y splitter on order dont plan on extractong from one tent in to the other.. room temps easy enough to manage also with a oil rad, never had issues with the previous grows temps wise.
Only thing i’m in two minds about is the SF4000 ( spider farmers ) fancy playing with some lower watts and see what i can pull, be running along side a HGL 600 and i like a good challange.
Ah the spider is not 600W?, guilty of assuming again ;[, I wish these led companies would just give names that reflect the W. If I am reading the correct light it suggests 496W will replace 1k hps o0. Seen those kind of claims before.
 

Kushthemagictree

Well-Known Member
Ah the spider is not 600W?, guilty of assuming again ;[, I wish these led companies would just give names that reflect the W. If I am reading the correct light it suggests 496W will replace 1k hps o0. Seen those kind of claims before.
Yeah mate pulls about 500 watts at the wall, they do tell depending where you buying from some of the lights on ebay / amazon have anything added, we can apply some sceptisim to these claims of course. The led come a long way and many use them over HID i’ve only just this year took the jump and bought them and plan on getting rid of all HID maybe keeo one digital ballance for emergency purposes and bulb for each setting.
 

Flowki

Well-Known Member
I’ve had external intakes since 2012. And if you don’t have good airflow mould can be an issue for sure.
Yeah my original intake was on a split, one from a warm source, one from a cold. Their was never major issues, but a lot less now that I don't use the direct cold part any more. Only prob is, that came with directly lowering the other space temp, rather than by half. Pro's and cons I guess.
 

Kushthemagictree

Well-Known Member
It’s a 4 bar LED. Quantum boards are a square board with LED’s etc mounted to the board right?

This isn’t a QB as far as I’m aware.


It’s the @MarsHydrofactory FC3000
i thought they classed all LED’s as QB except those purple things.
How you finding the light? You had good results yield wise? I’m tempted to try these as they look like good kits, some you have to build aswell depending on how and where you purchase
 

Kushthemagictree

Well-Known Member
Yeah my original intake was on a split, one from a warm source, one from a cold. Their was never major issues, but a lot less now that I don't use the direct cold part any more. Only prob is, that came with directly lowering the other space temp, rather than by half. Pro's and cons I guess.
guess every thing is when building and setting uo you’re area, i try not to over complicate things this way its a little easier to manage
 

Flowki

Well-Known Member
Yeah mate pulls about 500 watts at the wall, they do tell depending where you buying from some of the lights on ebay / amazon have anything added, we can apply some sceptisim to these claims of course. The led come a long way and many use them over HID i’ve only just this year took the jump and bought them and plan on getting rid of all HID maybe keeo one digital ballance for emergency purposes and bulb for each setting.
Oh leds are fine, not knocking them. 500, it shoudln't be miles behind the hlg then.. althoguh the hlg apears to have slightly better spread, and ofc 100 extra W. That spectrum on the 500 will have to do wonders to out perform the hlg.
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
i thought they classed all LED’s as QB except those purple things.
How you finding the light? You had good results yield wise? I’m tempted to try these as they look like good kits, some you have to build aswell depending on how and where you purchase

Not had a plant under it yet. Had it less than 14 days and was mid harvest using the 400HPS when it arrived.


Then there was Harvest, clean down the room, clean my DTW drip irrigation system, trimming and boxing etc.

Plus I can only work during the nights (after 9pm) due to working during the day and kids at night lol.

My area is behind a false wall etc so I can go in there anytime but it’s not fair on the Mrs with the where’s dad questions lol.
 
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