how to feed with Dr Earth Flower Girl?

Cvntcrusher

Cvntcrusher

Well-Known Member
ATTN: I have always used liquid nutrients. SPECIFICALLY I've been using BB&B (all natural) from Vine Vitality.

I have quite a few plants going and they're all at different stages in their lives. therefor I can't just make feed and feed them all the same. I am trying to conquer dry amendments and I've attempted this once a few months ago and I didn't have good results.

So this is what I'm using to learn. (also, I'm wanting to use dry amendments only at some point as I work 9-12hr shifts 6 days a week. So mixing nutrients for all these different plants is really becoming time consuming when I could be using the time for other constructive things in my garden.

Can you guys please help me with how to use this flower girl?

Right now i'm using FFOF in 3 gallon wide pots. The strain we're focusing this feed on is Gorilla Glue Autoflower from ILGM. She just hit week 3.5 of flowering and she is showing signs of hunger. I water my plants with tap water PH'd to 6.4-6.5 and they love it. I only use flower girl and i don't use any kind of veg nutrients as I've been flipping after 30-40d of veg. But after these two crops come down I'm going to start vegging much longer. So I'll need to learn how to feed dry amendments for veg soon.

So HOW MUCH OF THIS FLOWER GIRL AM I SUPPOSED TO BE FEEDING HER? Also how often? AND does the amount of feed increase each time throughout flowering?
s
(i am currently giving some of my plants EWC & flower girl just experimenting and trying to figure out how to use of the dry amendments.


HAPPY GROWING FELLAS. I can upload a couple pictures if need be so you guys can see where she's at in her life cycle.
 
Richard Drysift

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
Flower Girl is a dry fertilizer; not really a nutrient which means it must be decomposed by the microbes in your soil in order to become available to the plants root system. It’s just like an organic amendment; you put it into the mix directly when you build the pots. No idea what the label says but I add chicken manure and mycorrhizae that is a similar formula to FG. I would put about a 1/4 cup per let’s say a 5 gal container; more or less. No need to be deadly accurate as it is slow release unlike liquid nutes. The EWC you added will provide the microbes you need to drive the soil. Adding granular mycorrhizae in the hole at each transplant will assist w/absorption. Place the root ball directly in contact w/ the myco. Then you just water the plants..if your soil is active enough microbially the mix will do the rest. Save your nutes for when the mix eventually goes south mid-late flowering. Also stop ph-ing the water... that’s doing nothing.
If you have already potted up the plants just use the flower girl and ewc as a top dressing for now. Then get a tote and mix up some more soil for the next up-potting. It may be difficult to get through a full bloom phase with a 3g pot without using nutes... I see you got a scrog net going there so maybe this is the final size? Probably too late for this grow but try going bigger..5g..if you can or just plan to use nutrients in bloom phase. They are already fading but if you brew them a good stout aact that should get them green again. Giving nutes is always the alternative which will feed them instantly; it takes time for organic inputs to work. The idea is to put everything they need into the soil before it is actually needed... then you just water them.
 
Cvntcrusher

Cvntcrusher

Well-Known Member
Richard Drysift said:
Flower Girl is a dry fertilizer; not really a nutrient which means it must be decomposed by the microbes in your soil in order to become available to the plants root system. It’s just like an organic amendment; you put it into the mix directly when you build the pots. No idea what the label says but I add chicken manure and mycorrhizae that is a similar formula to FG. I would put about a 1/4 cup per let’s say a 5 gal container; more or less. No need to be deadly accurate as it is slow release unlike liquid nutes. The EWC you added will provide the microbes you need to drive the soil. Adding granular mycorrhizae in the hole at each transplant will assist w/absorption. Place the root ball directly in contact w/ the myco. Then you just water the plants..if your soil is active enough microbially the mix will do the rest. Save your nutes for when the mix eventually goes south mid-late flowering. Also stop ph-ing the water... that’s doing nothing.
If you have already potted up the plants just use the flower girl and ewc as a top dressing for now. Then get a tote and mix up some more soil for the next up-potting. It may be difficult to get through a full bloom phase with a 3g pot without using nutes... I see you got a scrog net going there so maybe this is the final size? Probably too late for this grow but try going bigger..5g..if you can or just plan to use nutrients in bloom phase. They are already fading but if you brew them a good stout aact that should get them green again. Giving nutes is always the alternative which will feed them instantly; it takes time for organic inputs to work. The idea is to put everything they need into the soil before it is actually needed... then you just water them.
Click to expand...
are you a hammer? cus you nailed it.

lmao seriously though thank you! so the reason i PH my water down is because it comes out of the tap at 11.8! i use ffof and i was just giving all my plants regular water and by week two they all looked HORRID. yellow and brown and just overall horrible. i started PHing my water to 6.5 and within 5 days everyone was dark green.

and yes i actually don’t plan on running anything smaller than 5g pots going forward.

i also have unlimited liquid nutrients (big blooms and buds) i’m just trying to get down top dressing as i work so much that just watering is my goal lol
 
Richard Drysift

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
If that’s true your tap water is like drinking ammonia. Check your ph meter for calibration; that seems kinda weird. I had a slew of absorption issues using my own tap water for growing in living soil even though it comes out at 7 ph and 125ppm. Started giving my plants water collected from a dehumidifier and never looked back.
If I ever see them getting pale I brew up a worm tea and they usually green right back up. I give Neptune’s Harvest w/seaweed in between if needed and 2+ Jobes AP organic spikes per container usually feeds them through to harvest.
 
Cvntcrusher

Cvntcrusher

Well-Known Member
Richard Drysift said:
If that’s true your tap water is like drinking ammonia. Check your ph meter for calibration; that seems kinda weird. I had a slew of absorption issues using my own tap water for growing in living soil even though it comes out at 7 ph and 125ppm. Started giving my plants water collected from a dehumidifier and never looked back.
If I ever see them getting pale I brew up a worm tea and they usually green right back up. I give Neptune’s Harvest w/seaweed in between if needed and 2+ Jobes AP organic spikes per container usually feeds them through to harvest.
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i don’t want to give my location away... but i live in a very populated city and it’s like almost a law now to drink the water from the city no well water here.

but i’m going to get an air stone and pump and stuff so i can start making teas.
 
Cvntcrusher

Cvntcrusher

Well-Known Member
Wizzlebiz said:
It would be illegal by most citys standards.

More likely the pH reading method is messed up.
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i calibrated my PH meter and tested the water straight from the tap. when i checked it it was 10.87. when i get home if i remember i’ll do it again and take a pic
 
Wizzlebiz

Wizzlebiz

Well-Known Member
Cvntcrusher said:
i calibrated my PH meter and tested the water straight from the tap. when i checked it it was 10.87. when i get home if i remember i’ll do it again and take a pic
Click to expand...
Do a controlled experiment. Go to ace hardware and get pH strips. Follow the directions on the bottle and see if you get the same reading.
 
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