myke
Well-Known Member
Assuming promix hp has it? Looking back at @swedsteven posts IIRC was using just Gaia and promix in the beginning.But without the ewc/ compost, where's the microbiology come from to break down the dry amendments?
Assuming promix hp has it? Looking back at @swedsteven posts IIRC was using just Gaia and promix in the beginning.But without the ewc/ compost, where's the microbiology come from to break down the dry amendments?
Adding barley, microbes, & amendments to the peat moss is where I thought it would come from.But without the ewc/ compost, where's the microbiology come from to break down the dry amendments?
I can't say that because I don't know for sure, but roots can't take up what's not broke down.Adding barley, microbes, & amendments to the peat moss is where I thought it would come from.
He is also using compost & EWC.Assuming promix hp has it? Looking back at @swedsteven posts IIRC was using just Gaia and promix in the beginning.
Yes now he is but back when I first joined I dont think he was. Regardless,gaia and promix hp works,my outside flowers are doing well.Clones do well.It can only make it better by adding ewc.He is also using compost & EWC.
Only when it was living and harvested on the spot. Not dried as we use.Remember this - Peat moss has anti-microbial properties. This is why it's been used to dress wounds since Christ was a corporal. If you grow organic, I would suggest a lesser amount.
Most of what's in your soil can deplete long before some amendments are broken down enough to be absorbed by the roots. Especially with lil microbiology. The thing with organics is its really hard to over do it.Soil tests are only a picture,doesnt tell you what will happen down the road.Its just how much you use.
If you tested my soil it would be off the charts on everything (I think). The plant doesnt use it all at once if it is an organic grow.For those wondering why I don't want to use compost or EWC, it is because I have done soil tests on these organics and results from the soil tests show some nutrients are high enough to possibly cause lockout issues.
Maybe pine bark or rotted wood could work. Mixing with peat moss should provide the organic material many of you say is necessary and also satisfy my quest for an organic not too high in nutrients as to cause lockout issues. This should give the microbes something to work with.
I wonder how small the bark should be or does it matter?
For sure. From what I've been led to believe, they are able to pick and choose what they want. I keep mine pretty well amended and I've not seen anything to make me believe they'll lockout.If you tested my soil it would be off the charts on everything (I think). The plant doesnt use it all at once if it is an organic grow.
Right...the problem is I don't know what is "too much" of a particular nutrient that might cause problems. For example if 320 ppm is optimal for calcium, is 1000 ppm to high? I want to develop a soil profile that is balanced across the entire spectrum, but the EWC and Compost inputs I have been using are unpredictable as to what is actually in them.If you tested my soil it would be off the charts on everything (I think). The plant doesnt use it all at once if it is an organic grow.
yea i duno man peat is kinda like coco they are both inert. i dont use dry amendments or plain water. i use liquid nutrients that are meant for hydroponics you would be wise to go that route as well if your going to grow in peat the only time i use anything dry is top dressing dolomite lime but thats not really for the calcium or magnesium its for raising the ph of the peat back to the 5.9 - 6.1 range i only do this if i see the ph drifting to far out of range in between waterings. it sounds like you want to use dry amendments that are organic if thats the case i recommend you use soil.I understand peat moss needs to be buffered. I use oyster shell flour. I was wondering if anyone added dry amendments to peat but left out organic materials such as ewc or compost and run the grow by just adding water. I think this would be considered soilless and wanted to know how this would differ.
I would be more concerned about the microbial life in the compost/ewc than it's nutrient profile. I've always subscribed to the compost being the heart of the soil. I consider my ewc a fix all cure and I have no clue of their npk. I imagine they would test through the roof on all sorts of things but always have happier plants when top dressed with straight ewc.Right...the problem is I don't know what is "too much" of a particular nutrient that might cause problems. For example if 320 ppm is optimal for calcium, is 1000 ppm to high? I want to develop a soil profile that is balanced across the entire spectrum, but the EWC and Compost inputs I have been using are unpredictable as to what is actually in them.
I always like to look to nature for answers with living soil. All kinds of leaves, dead bugs, dead animals, bug and animal shit, etc.etc..... they all cover the ground. Plants still grow in it, but without bacterial, fungal life in the soil, there's nothing to break down and convert the organic matter into available nutrient.I would be more concerned about the microbial life in the compost/ewc than it's nutrient profile. I've always subscribed to the compost being the heart of the soil. I consider my ewc a fix all cure and I have no clue of their npk. I imagine they would test through the roof on all sorts of things but always have happier plants when top dressed with straight ewc.
I think the only way to find your answers on what works or not is just trial and error on your part. I'm sure it can be done, it may just take working through some hiccups to figure it out. At the very least even just a handful or two of compost will introduce a "broader spectrum" of microbes to the mix and I'd like to think the best balance you can hope for is a thriving soil web.
No expert, just my two cents. I've never tested my soil as a disclaimer, just think they don't/can't tell the whole story like watching a plant.
I feel the same way. I have no clue if everything, bugs and all, from the outdoor compost I made was the best bedding for my worm bins but I still used it. I love having permanent springtails and sow bugs in there now. Just different kinds of helpers to the process.I always like to look to nature for answers with living soil. All kinds of leaves, dead bugs, dead animals, bug and animal shit, etc.etc..... they all cover the ground. Plants still grow in it, but without bacterial, fungal life in the soil, there's nothing to break down and convert the organic matter into available nutrient.
I just had a major outbreak of soil mites in some recycling soil I keep in a tote. The fucking things were EVERYWHERE! They're so tiny you can barely see them. They're beneficial, but nothing like finding them floating in another tote I keep ro water in.I have a boom of black soldier flies now in my worm bin.Their doin it on the walls of my garage lol.