Alright my fellow green thumbs lol. I have a situation here. I'm on my second run like ever. And in my rush to be the best cultivator ever (yeah right) I really didn't take into consideration that I was growing two totally different strains one Bruce banner auto(started flush yesterday beginning wk9) and a zskittles auto (which is also in wk9 but no where near as far along as ol' Bruce I will add pics of both plants)but needless to say in my haste I didn't take into consideration that one would finish before the other so now I got like two more weeks on Bruce an maybe 4 or so on the Skittles so what should I do about drying I only have one tent?( First 3 pics are banner the other two are Skittles)
!!!!DRYING SUGGESTIONS!!!
- Thread starter B.E.G.
- Start date
JimmiP
Well-Known Member
Use a closet or an appliance box with a fan. Keep it at 60-65% rh and around 60-65 degrees Fahrenheit. You want to dry as slow as it can go.
Also those plants have way more than two and four weeks left. Be patient and don't cut them early,
Good luck friend!
DrBuzzFarmer
Well-Known Member
The appliance box thing might be your best option.
I always try to keep my drying herb as close to 50% relative humidity as I can get.
I've experimented with a lot of different methods.
If you allow the humidity to drop too far, you will lose terps and trichomes as it gets all crumbly on the outside.
It will also turn powdery when it is cured and taken from it's storage.
However you manage it, keep the herb at as close to 50% RH as you can, until it is dried enough to store, then put it away long term with 58% humidity packs.
The key is in keeping the herb as close to a uniform humidity as you can, and make it take as long as possible to dry without going below 50% RH.
Don't let it go above 70% RH while drying, or it will slump and completely ruin your bag appeal as well as affecting taste.
If you manage to keep your herb around 50% RH until it is ready to cure (still moist in the very center, but dried 1/2 way through), you can generally go directly to the cure without too much burping. You must still be aware spikes could happen, and burp as necessary until fluctuations stop happening.
This will give you buds that hold their RH level for a couple days outside a storage container, so you can open the storage container less frequently.
Buds dried too fast give you crumbly buds after a few hours from the storage container. Even after rehydrating with humidity packs.
Buds dried too slowly can mold.
No one can see the density levels of your buds, so it all falls on you to make educated guesses, because no on likes a second rate product after all the work you've done to grow it.
Dense buds are best dried much slower with a keen eye towards burping jars.
Fluffy buds will dry faster and go to the cure much quicker with less burping.
Plan, and allow your buds to cure for AT LEAST a month, for best results.
There is a chemical reaction taking place during the cure that is not visible, where THCA is being chemically broken down into THC.
Fresher herb is more medicinal, whereas cured herb is stronger.
Let your buds cure for your pride's sake.
I always try to keep my drying herb as close to 50% relative humidity as I can get.
I've experimented with a lot of different methods.
If you allow the humidity to drop too far, you will lose terps and trichomes as it gets all crumbly on the outside.
It will also turn powdery when it is cured and taken from it's storage.
However you manage it, keep the herb at as close to 50% RH as you can, until it is dried enough to store, then put it away long term with 58% humidity packs.
The key is in keeping the herb as close to a uniform humidity as you can, and make it take as long as possible to dry without going below 50% RH.
Don't let it go above 70% RH while drying, or it will slump and completely ruin your bag appeal as well as affecting taste.
If you manage to keep your herb around 50% RH until it is ready to cure (still moist in the very center, but dried 1/2 way through), you can generally go directly to the cure without too much burping. You must still be aware spikes could happen, and burp as necessary until fluctuations stop happening.
This will give you buds that hold their RH level for a couple days outside a storage container, so you can open the storage container less frequently.
Buds dried too fast give you crumbly buds after a few hours from the storage container. Even after rehydrating with humidity packs.
Buds dried too slowly can mold.
No one can see the density levels of your buds, so it all falls on you to make educated guesses, because no on likes a second rate product after all the work you've done to grow it.
Dense buds are best dried much slower with a keen eye towards burping jars.
Fluffy buds will dry faster and go to the cure much quicker with less burping.
Plan, and allow your buds to cure for AT LEAST a month, for best results.
There is a chemical reaction taking place during the cure that is not visible, where THCA is being chemically broken down into THC.
Fresher herb is more medicinal, whereas cured herb is stronger.
Let your buds cure for your pride's sake.
ZuuTeD614
Well-Known Member
Yup first couple pics you look like about a month and the last two pics you got awhile. Lmao be patient and just keep doing what you are doing. I wouldn't flush just lower the strength of your nutes. You take the plants food away it starves and doesn't finish properly. Then all tjat time goes to nothing to be excited about. Patient is key to success young grasshopper!
Autodoctor
Well-Known Member
Hate to say Bruce has more than two weeks and flushing is a waste of time. U can harvest if you want in two weeks but you will be short changing yourself
They were planted an came out the ground all at the same time. But the banner seems to have taken off on the other. An from looking at them through a jewelers loupe banners cloudy with a few Amber heads already. I imagine by the time two weeks comes they will be right on time. Says Bruce banner 9-11 wks to harvest. The Skittles slowed down but could have been a issue on my part.
Make some news paper covers... hang them inside newspaper.... protect them from the light whilst they dry.
Dank Bongula
Well-Known Member
For individual plants like this, I use a cardboard box about twice the size of the plant. Place a few frozen bottles of water on a tray on the bottom and hang the whole plant from the top. Cut a few flaps into the sides and top and turn a fan on low towards the box for a little airflow.
I live in the desert so it is hot and dry most of the time. This smaller environment is much easier to control than my grow tents in regards to keeping the temps low and humidity up for drying purposes. During summer, keeping the AC in my house at 70° costs me $300 in electricity just for the drying period alone.
Using the cardboard box right now actually and it is holding pretty good at 60-64% humidity and 66°
I live in the desert so it is hot and dry most of the time. This smaller environment is much easier to control than my grow tents in regards to keeping the temps low and humidity up for drying purposes. During summer, keeping the AC in my house at 70° costs me $300 in electricity just for the drying period alone.
Using the cardboard box right now actually and it is holding pretty good at 60-64% humidity and 66°
Sounds like a good idea I'm currently at odds with myself over the "flowering time" suggested by breeders. I understand it's more so for ideal conditions an as a rough estimate if not in said conditions. But I'm confused on if the days they say it takes to flower is referring to the time the plant is spent in flower like from the time it first pops a few pistils or does the time also take into consideration the time it takes to veg? ( Curious cause photos say from 12/12 flip you start counting an I'm currently doing autos an there's no 12/12 flip)
Dank Bongula
Well-Known Member
There's no 12/12 flip but they usually give a total days to harvest. I add two weeks.
Thundercat
Well-Known Member
Any flowering times from a breeder are just loose guidelines, and really don't matter. The plants tell us everything we need to know about when they are ready. I can tell now you are looking at the trichomes waaay to early.
Before even thinking about harvesting take a look at this and see if your plant is actually showing you all these signs.
The signs of ripeness are pretty standard.
First a few of the pistils begin turning color and start receding. Your plant is just starting to ripen. Depending on the strain you could still have two months to go. We're just starting this journey.
Two to four weeks later you'll notice that most of the pistils(>80%) have now changed color and curled back into the bud. It's frosty, way bigger than it was a few weeks ago, and smells dank! It's time, right? Not a chance killer. Patience is a virtue
Over the next 2-3 weeks it doesn't look much different, maybe a little more swelling in the calyxes, and the rest of the pistils change over, but the stems ars starting to bend under the weight of the buds. These ladies are putting on weight and now the buds are doing their final ripening.
Now you begin looking at trichomes, on the calyx not leaves, and harvest according to your preference. When looking at trichomes it’s essential to look at them from the side. The bulbous heads can magnify the opaque stalk under it. Looking from the side allows you to more accurately see the condition of the resin in the trichome head.
There is still no rush to harvest, the window just opened, and you have several weeks before you MIGHT start having to think about it possibly beginning to get too ripe. It takes WEEKS for plants to mature not days.
It is very easy to harvest a plant to early. It is very hard to harvest a plant to late. I’ve never seen someone accidentally wait too long.
Before even thinking about harvesting take a look at this and see if your plant is actually showing you all these signs.
The signs of ripeness are pretty standard.
First a few of the pistils begin turning color and start receding. Your plant is just starting to ripen. Depending on the strain you could still have two months to go. We're just starting this journey.
Two to four weeks later you'll notice that most of the pistils(>80%) have now changed color and curled back into the bud. It's frosty, way bigger than it was a few weeks ago, and smells dank! It's time, right? Not a chance killer. Patience is a virtue
Over the next 2-3 weeks it doesn't look much different, maybe a little more swelling in the calyxes, and the rest of the pistils change over, but the stems ars starting to bend under the weight of the buds. These ladies are putting on weight and now the buds are doing their final ripening.
Now you begin looking at trichomes, on the calyx not leaves, and harvest according to your preference. When looking at trichomes it’s essential to look at them from the side. The bulbous heads can magnify the opaque stalk under it. Looking from the side allows you to more accurately see the condition of the resin in the trichome head.
There is still no rush to harvest, the window just opened, and you have several weeks before you MIGHT start having to think about it possibly beginning to get too ripe. It takes WEEKS for plants to mature not days.
It is very easy to harvest a plant to early. It is very hard to harvest a plant to late. I’ve never seen someone accidentally wait too long.
Almost all plants need 70 to 77 days... some sativas more like 90. Ignore what's on the pack completely. It's marketing bullshit