Buds still small ??

[Star Dog]

Thanks @jondamon I appreciate your comment

@Chrisjames47
You've got a lot of good advice in this post if you follow it you'll get on track.

Here's some random photos with a+b being used.



Try to ignore advertising bull nutrient companies are brilliant at making people think the plant needs whatever,s in the bottle, we've all been there likes, you might find it hard to believe that less is more but it really is.

The need for a ec meter cannot be overstated, imo its essential to growing, per litre of my tap water 1ml a+b = 1.0ec.

Best of luck with your grow...

 

[curious2garden]

Thanks for the input, I will be getting an ec meter in next couple of weeks would I need a tds aswell or can you do both on one meter?
Thanks

TDS meter is an EC meter with built in conversion.

 

[Chrisjames47]

Thanks @jondamon I appreciate your comment

@Chrisjames47
You've got a lot of good advice in this post if you follow it you'll get on track.

Here's some random photos with a+b being used.
View attachment 4940108View attachment 4940109View attachment 4940110View attachment 4940111View attachment 4940112View attachment 4940113View attachment 4940114View attachment 4940115View attachment 4940116


Try to ignore advertising bull nutrient companies are brilliant at making people think the plant needs whatever,s in the bottle, we've all been there likes, you might find it hard to believe that less is more but it really is.

The need for a ec meter cannot be overstated, imo its essential to growing, per litre of my tap water 1ml a+b = 1.0ec.

Best of luck with your grow...

Thankyou man I appreciate it, I will have an EC meter within the next week

 

[Chrisjames47]

TDS meter is an EC meter with built in conversion.

Thanks for the reply, so do you use a tds or an EC meter?

 

[Star Dog]

It's sorta like mph and kilometers they're both measurements of speed but different, using one or the other = the same speed.

If your buying a blue lab it has all the scales on it I'd expect they all do but idk blue lab is the standard.

 

[curious2garden]

Thanks for the reply, so do you use a tds or an EC meter?

While Blue Lab is the nicest and I use their pH pen, I purchased a 14 buck TDS meter off Amazon about a decade ago that's still going strong. I figure when it eventually dies I'll replace it with Blue Lab.

 

[Chrisjames47]

It's sorta like mph and kilometers they're both measurements of speed but different, using one or the other = the same speed.

If your buying a blue lab it has all the scales on it I'd expect they all do but idk blue lab is the standard.

Yea il get the blue lab one, thanks man

 

[Chrisjames47]

While Blue Lab is the nicest and I use their pH pen, I purchased a 14 buck TDS meter off Amazon about a decade ago that's still going strong. I figure when it eventually dies I'll replace it with Blue Lab.

I heard that the cheaper meters you see on amazon and stuff are sometimes inaccurate but if you are happy with your grows then I suppose it worked for you I don't want to chance it tho I'm just going for the blue lab ec meter, thanks for your help mate

 

[curious2garden]

I heard that the cheaper meters you see on amazon and stuff are sometimes inaccurate but if you are happy with your grows then I suppose it worked for you I don't want to chance it tho I'm just going for the blue lab ec meter, thanks for your help mate

I definitely would not listen to me, with my limited experience and education it's a recipe for disaster But we all have to start somewhere, so there is that.

 

[Star Dog]

I've only used New Zealand hydro and blue lab both quality meters the NZ hydro was the blue lab predecessor, I've since thought that it doesn't require cutting edge technology to measure conductivity ffs my test meter registers in nutrient on 10k ohms lol it really does but I wasn't perusing it lol.

ph meters are measuring ions that's pretty complex, resistance/conductivity isn't.

@curious2garden that's some testing condition you got there mate, I'll not whinge about humidity ever again!







I will likes lol

 

[curious2garden]

I've only used New Zealand hydro and blue lab both quality meters the NZ hydro was the blue lab predecessor, I've since thought that it doesn't require cutting edge technology to measure conductivity ffs my test meter registers in nutrient on 10k ohms lol it really does but I wasn't perusing it lol.

ph meters are measuring ions that's pretty complex, resistance/conductivity isn't.

@curious2garden that's some testing condition you got there mate, I'll not whinge about humidity ever again!







I will likes lol

To be fair I began growing before I was aware you could not grow within my parameters. I didn't tell my plants and we seem to muddle through. Thanks!

 

[Chrisjames47]

I definitely would not listen to me, with my limited experience and education it's a recipe for disaster But we all have to start somewhere, so there is that.

I suppose yea ha thanks again man

 

[Nizza]

I suppose yea ha thanks again man

One good thing I realized, was going into things you need to dial every thing in
If you were to feed the plants on the feed schedule, everything needs to be dialed in so the plant can metabolize quickly-- without a fully dialed in grow room, you will probably find 1/4-1/2 the feed schedule is only necessary otherwise you will get salt build up
Eventually down the road you may be running things with Relative humidity, Temperature, Air flow, Amount and spectrum of light, and feeding/watering schedule optimized
then you will be closer to the schedule for those nutrients but probably have your own recipe. Trying to understand what is going on with environmental variables I think will be the biggest benefit for now, but the best thing to do is do a lower rate feed schedule until you think the plants are hungry, then add more nutrients

 

[Nizza]

on another note. open up the passive intakes there's no need to close them and restrict air (co2 and oxygen) to your plants leaves and roots

roots=bud. Get your ph +ppm meters. If doing hydro do the appropriate method.. if doing rockwool/coco/soil be sure to have some run off to avoid salt build up

 

[curious2garden]

on another note. open up the passive intakes there's no need to close them and restrict air (co2 and oxygen) to your plants leaves and roots

roots=bud. Get your ph +ppm meters. If doing hydro do the appropriate method.. if doing rockwool/coco/soil be sure to have some run off to avoid salt build up

Small clarification rockwool and unamended coco are hydroponics, soil is soil.

 

[Chrisjames47]

on another note. open up the passive intakes there's no need to close them and restrict air (co2 and oxygen) to your plants leaves and roots

roots=bud. Get your ph +ppm meters. If doing hydro do the appropriate method.. if doing rockwool/coco/soil be sure to have some run off to avoid salt build up

Thanks for the reply, I tried opening just 2 of the 3 vents I have and the tent walls were not sucking in and I was told a while back that you need the walls sucking in to get negative pressure in the tent as I do not have an air in, even with just 1 open it does not work properly, I don't think my 4 inch extraction fan is powerful enough I will be upgrading to a 6" after this grow, would you say I would still be better having them or some open?
Thanks again

 

[Star Dog]

The tent walls do not need to be sucked in get them vents open asap, you might not need another fan.

Air getting sucked in the vents creates negative pressure, it doesn't need to be a hurricane just negative.

 

[jondamon]

Thanks for the reply, I tried opening just 2 of the 3 vents I have and the tent walls were not sucking in and I was told a while back that you need the walls sucking in to get negative pressure in the tent as I do not have an air in, even with just 1 open it does not work properly, I don't think my 4 inch extraction fan is powerful enough I will be upgrading to a 6" after this grow, would you say I would still be better having them or some open?
Thanks again

Listen to @Star Dog i would advise the same.

Just because you can’t see the tent walls imploding doesn’t mean negative pressure isn’t there.

if you want to check blow some smoke at the vent holes and if it goes into the tent then hey presto you’ve got negative pressure.

 

[Chrisjames47]

The tent walls do not need to be sucked in get them vents open asap, you might not need another fan.

Thanks for the advice mate , I have just opened them, I have just bought some fusion co2 foliar spray do you think that will help at this stage of flower and would it be OK to get it on the buds?

 

[Jules1976]

Not the best pictures but are those leaves cupping (they seem to bend down the middle) cos that normally means there is something wrong so people confuse praying as the leaves point upwards in both situations but they shouldn't be bending