First time using high powered led lights

GrassBurner

Well-Known Member
My first run with coots mix showed pretty similar issues. I believe it comes down to the quality of compost put in the original mix. What I used just wasn't up to par.
What brought my soil to life was Dr Earth dry ammendments. They've got microbes and mycorrhizae already in there. As long as you don't go crazy, it won't burn your plants.
After each cycle, I pull the dirt out of my sips, take that dirt to my pile outside, mix it back in, then take out what I need for the next run. Then I mix in my Dr Earth dry ammendments (Homegrown for veg), some langbeinite, Epsom salt, agsil, and water it in with fulvic acid. My well water is pretty hard, so I don't seem to need to add calcium. Also got lots of worms in the soil, and they multiply rapidly in my sips.
First time using Dr Earth I mixed at 1/4 strength, second time was 1/2 strength. This time when I scratched in my flower ammendments, I went full strength. I've read that living soils get better over time, and I think they do, as far as the soil biology and diversity is concerned. But it still needs to be replenished. The best living soil in the world can't create nutrients, it can only break down and offer what's available.
 

maranibbana

Well-Known Member
So then if you don't see a deficiency then you must see an excess of some nutrient, correct. What do you believe is excessive in the soil to cause what appears to be a deficiency?
I can’t give you that answer, but somewhere in the re-amending process OP used either too much crab meal, too much gypsum, or too much Alf/kelp. Any of those in an improper amount, on the second run in these 25gal for them, can cause the micros to get a little out of whack. it will self correct. Op is still In veg. Idk Ops water schedule or what op gives plants weekly, that can also play a part.
Like I suggest to Op I would water with plain RO for every watering and a microbe drench twice a week until it corrects. Op might not see the effected leaves return back to green, so they will need to focus on the new growth.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
My compost is hand made with coots worm bin methods and I use this to top dress above my dry amendments at a rate of about 2 gallons per 25 gallon(Wish I used beds). The soil was constructed following coots the recipe to the T. Also this is the second run in this soil so it may need more time to settle but it has been top dressed with kelp, neem, crab and gypsum before the run. Following this guide as to the amounts but added neem also.


Has living worms in it. My other room has hps lighting and potassium def in late flower showed so I’m definitely going to need that forsure for this LED room but this is a little early to be running into issues in veg. It seems only strain specific. My GMO, Blue Sunshine are growing well.
I definitely see K deficiency. Too much Ca can lock out K. What water are you using? Gypsum is basically just Ca. Maybe you over did it.
 

maranibbana

Well-Known Member
When you have a thriving diverse microbiology it will work with the plants roots to give them what they need how and when they need it. When the micros are off, they have trouble. Cannabis is an auto feeder. balance the soil life, the plant does its thing.
 

steveydvee

Well-Known Member
I can’t give you that answer, but somewhere in the re-amending process OP used either too much crab meal, too much gypsum, or too much Alf/kelp. Any of those in an improper amount, on the second run in these 25gal for them, can cause the micros to get a little out of whack. it will self correct. Op is still In veg. Idk Ops water schedule or what op gives plants weekly, that can also play a part.
Like I suggest to Op I would water with plain RO for every watering and a microbe drench twice a week until it corrects. Op might not see the effected leaves return back to green, so they will need to focus on the new growth.
Sorry I forgot to mention I use blumats and dial it in that way with also the help of a simple moisture meter to get both readings. Forgot the scientific name of the device that comes with blumats but I use that alongside with the moisture probe.
 

steveydvee

Well-Known Member
I definitely see K deficiency. Too much Ca can lock out K. What water are you using? Gypsum is basically just Ca. Maybe you over did it.
I can definitely see it being a possible K deficiency since my hps flowering room has ran into that issue also using the recommended by buildasoil top dress guide. The guide uses 4:2:1 of Gypsum, crab, kelp. For top dress.
 

maranibbana

Well-Known Member
I can definitely see it being a possible K deficiency since my hps flowering room has ran into that issue also using the recommended by buildasoil top dress guide. The guide uses 4:2:1 of Gypsum, crab, kelp. For top dress.
But don’t add more K, it will only make things worse, the issue at the root is the excess Ca locking out the K making it look like it’s deficient
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
I can’t give you that answer, but somewhere in the re-amending process OP used either too much crab meal, too much gypsum, or too much Alf/kelp. Any of those in an improper amount, on the second run in these 25gal for them, can cause the micros to get a little out of whack. it will self correct. Op is still In veg. Idk Ops water schedule or what op gives plants weekly, that can also play a part.
Like I suggest to Op I would water with plain RO for every watering and a microbe drench twice a week until it corrects. Op might not see the effected leaves return back to green, so they will need to focus on the new growth.
So, you somehow are quite certain that the reason for the "imbalance" is an excess of something, but you aren't quite sure what that something is. Brilliant! It must be wonderful to have all the answers and none of them all at the same time. I'll quietly back out of this thread; there's obviously powerful minds at work, and I'm sure the you'll solve the OP's issues right quick! Know-till, no till, to the moon!
 
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