Can you help cool my Cool Tube? (PIX)

7th1der

Well-Known Member


As the pictures shows, I already drilled 3 holes in my cab. The 2 flanges are 4" holes and the hole in the center is a 2.5" hole I planned on putting a PC fan in front of. I had a cool tube running through the 4" flanges but the heat was a bit hot even with a duct fan running at like 60 CFM's. My question is should that fan be swapped out for something stronger? Also, where do I drill as far as ventilation holes? Is my cabinet fuck'd now?

Thanx in advance!!!!!
 

abudsmoker

Well-Known Member
most of those inline fans have unrestricted speed of like 60. put a little ducting and hardware on it its much slower. you need a quality inline fan my 4 inch fans pull over 300 cfm if i recall correctly, i use 695 cfm fans on the 6 inch ducts
 

7th1der

Well-Known Member
most of those inline fans have unrestricted speed of like 60. put a little ducting and hardware on it its much slower. you need a quality inline fan my 4 inch fans pull over 300 cfm if i recall correctly, i use 695 cfm fans on the 6 inch ducts

Okay! What kind of 4" do you have?
 

7th1der

Well-Known Member
I would put the INLET hole down near the bottom.

How big of an inlet hole? And does that hole needs to be what size? And should It only be one? Does it need a fan? Should it be in the back or on the side? I feel a bit discouraged cause I already drilled holes and I don't want to drill another without being 110% sure. lol
 

SomeGuy

Well-Known Member
The air inlet should be at the bottom to draw in cool air. Back, side..doesnt matter as long as it is at the bottom. HOwever, you dont want light leaks. I use the back on cabinets for this purpose and put register vents on either side of the cabinet intake. It could be a passive intake (it should be 3x the size of your exhaust). You will want an exhaust fan (seperate from your light tube) to exhaust air out of the cabinet when its too humid or hot... or the easier way... constantly. You still need to move air through the whole cabinet using a cool tube.
You will need at least 160cfm to air cool a light. Bends in ducting decrease overall cfm. In-line centrifugal fans are very strong.. and loud. Just FYI..LOL
 

Picasso345

Well-Known Member
Well you have two issues here if I understand what you are trying to do. Cool tube and cab ventilation.

1. The tube: What size bulb is in that cool tube? How much was "a bit too hot" when you tried it out?

2. Cab ventilation. I put my inlets as low as possible. One on each side, with the exit being in the center, as high as possible. Like you have done. I would have that PC fan blowing out and make the intakes passive.
 

7th1der

Well-Known Member
The air inlet should be at the bottom to draw in cool air. Back, side..doesnt matter as long as it is at the bottom. HOwever, you dont want light leaks. I use the back on cabinets for this purpose and put register vents on either side of the cabinet intake. It could be a passive intake (it should be 3x the size of your exhaust). You will want an exhaust fan (seperate from your light tube) to exhaust air out of the cabinet when its too humid or hot... or the easier way... constantly. You still need to move air through the whole cabinet using a cool tube.
You will need at least 160cfm to air cool a light. Bends in ducting decrease overall cfm. In-line centrifugal fans are very strong.. and loud. Just FYI..LOL
So what fan would you recommend to cool the cool tube and is a PC fan good enough for exhaust? Also, the intake hole is just a hole thatss 3 times bigger than the exhaust with no fan attached, correct? I plan on returning these 2 PC fans back and also this 4" in-line Duct fan.
 

7th1der

Well-Known Member
Well you have two issues here if I understand what you are trying to do. Cool tube and cab ventilation.

1. The tube: What size bulb is in that cool tube? How much was "a bit too hot" when you tried it out?

2. Cab ventilation. I put my inlets as low as possible. One on each side, with the exit being in the center, as high as possible. Like you have done. I would have that PC fan blowing out and make the intakes passive.
Okay! So, My center hole is fine and it is 2.5" and needs a fan? And I need to put, say, two 4" holes in each corner at the bottom in the back? and cover with some type of venting to prevent light leaks? oh yeah, the bulb is 400w HPS
 

Picasso345

Well-Known Member
Okay! So, My center hole is fine and it is 2.5" and needs a fan? And I need to put, say, two 4" holes in each corner at the bottom in the back? and cover with some type of venting to prevent light leaks? oh yeah, the bulb is 400w HPS
I would say yes to all of that and hook up a big fan to the cool tube. A 4" inline - something like that with a Speedster controller hooked up to that. Will noise be a problem for you?

http://www.wormsway.com/detail.asp?sku=SW604
 

7th1der

Well-Known Member
I would say yes to all of that and hook up a big fan to the cool tube. A 4" inline - something like that with a Speedster controller hooked up to that. Will noise be a problem for you?

Sunleaves WindTunnel Fan, 4" - Worm's Way
Noise if definitely a problem cause I am on the middle floor in an apartment building. What If I put a 70 cfm 120mm PC Fan on the outside of where each flange is (One for intake and one for exhaust) how would that move the heat?
 

Picasso345

Well-Known Member
Noise if definitely a problem cause I am on the middle floor in an apartment building. What If I put a 70 cfm 120mm PC Fan on the outside of where each flange is (One for intake and one for exhaust) how would that move the heat?
I don't have any PC fan experience. A 400W will heat those boxes right up though. If I had to guess, I would say it isn't enough. You have to somehow hook a carbon filter up as well.
 

7th1der

Well-Known Member
I don't have any PC fan experience. A 400W will heat those boxes right up though. If I had to guess, I would say it isn't enough. You have to somehow hook a carbon filter up as well.

Well I'll hook up the carbon when in a few weeks cause I wanna spend some money on covering up the smell. I just came back from the computer store and bought 2 fans. I figure I'd try to if I tried the 4" Duct fan. They are both 120mm 72 cfm fans. The Duct fan by itself was only a 60 cfm "booster". So If Im pushing cool air through it at 72 cfm and sucking warm air with a 72 mm (probably a 30% loss in cfm) It should be cooler than what I had that duct fan doing. Imma hook it up and give a test drive in a few.
 

Landragon

Well-Known Member
Ok, several people told you to get a quality inline fan, and they are correct. Your 60 cfm fan is a duct booster I pressume? These are useless for growing pot. They have no ability against restriction as previously stated. Go to a growshop and ask for a 4" inline fan. It should be rated between 140-200 cfm, and will be around the size of a small basketball for kids. Grow shop brands worth a crap are Ellicient, canfan, vortex, soler & palau, and windtunnel. The s&p mixvent series are a good value though aren't as silent as some may have you believe. Those and windtunnel seem to be quietest. Use insulated duct to connect ad this lowers radiant heat and noise. P/c fans are crap for all but the smallest cabs. You need a 4" inlet some where for the cooltube. It does not have to be at the bottom. You need a 4" outlet for the cooltube. This should be as far from inlet as possible. This does not get rid of your heat problem. You need an inlet or two at the bottom of the cab that are light proofed, and preferably screened. An outlet to exhaust heat from within cab should be located up high, and needs to be run by a seperate fan, most likely a 4" one. This fan should suck from a carbon filter located up high to eliminate odor. That 2.5" hole needs to get a cool sticker or some tape covering it. If the room the cab is in is small or uncooled, heat may recitculate through cab and over time raise temps too high. Good luck.
 

7th1der

Well-Known Member
Ok, several people told you to get a quality inline fan, and they are correct. Your 60 cfm fan is a duct booster I pressume? These are useless for growing pot. They have no ability against restriction as previously stated. Go to a growshop and ask for a 4" inline fan. It should be rated between 140-200 cfm, and will be around the size of a small basketball for kids. Grow shop brands worth a crap are Ellicient, canfan, vortex, soler & palau, and windtunnel. The s&p mixvent series are a good value though aren't as silent as some may have you believe. Those and windtunnel seem to be quietest. Use insulated duct to connect ad this lowers radiant heat and noise. P/c fans are crap for all but the smallest cabs. You need a 4" inlet some where for the cooltube. It does not have to be at the bottom. You need a 4" outlet for the cooltube. This should be as far from inlet as possible. This does not get rid of your heat problem. You need an inlet or two at the bottom of the cab that are light proofed, and preferably screened. An outlet to exhaust heat from within cab should be located up high, and needs to be run by a seperate fan, most likely a 4" one. This fan should suck from a carbon filter located up high to eliminate odor. That 2.5" hole needs to get a cool sticker or some tape covering it. If the room the cab is in is small or uncooled, heat may recitculate through cab and over time raise temps too high. Good luck.
Damn damn damn! I just submitted the last post about a second before I read you post. Shit! Well I'll put the fans to work in other spots.

Can the inlet and outlet (No the ones for the cool tube) be drilled on the same side as the box? Or should they far apart also? Or does it matter because one will have a fan?


Thanx in advance!
 

SomeGuy

Well-Known Member
Damn damn damn! I just submitted the last post about a second before I read you post. Shit! Well I'll put the fans to work in other spots.

Can the inlet and outlet (No the ones for the cool tube) be drilled on the same side as the box? Or should they far apart also? Or does it matter because one will have a fan?


Thanx in advance!

I would say that pc fans will not work. Duct fans wont either. In-line centrifugal fans are the best. You will probably neet 160 cfm minimum to cool a 400w light. I do not run an air cooled reflector and vent my cabinet through a 265cfm 6" duct fan pushing through a carbon filter and It stays cool with my 400. I have the 400 on a temp controler set at 72dg. It stays about 75/80 in the cabinet. I would keep this fan setup and just add another fan if I wanted (could fit) an air cooled hood. That way the fan with the carbon scrubber could kick on if it was too hot and the cool tube fan would be on the whole time during lights on... LOL... ya know.. I have an extra 4" fan.. maybe Ill work on aircooling my light..LOL

Anyway... I think the point is that with HID lighting in such a small cabinet you will actually need quite a bit of ventilation. PC fans have worked well for me when working with less than a couple hundred watts in a small space.
 

7th1der

Well-Known Member
Good News - the one 120mm (73 cfm) PC fan I have blowing cool air through the Cool Tube is keeping the inside of the cab temps at an average of 87 degrees (85 low/87 hi) without oscillating fans or exhaust fan. However I did drill that exhaust hole that is 2.5" in diameter that I will be re-drilling to make it 4" in diameter and adding a second PC fan to exhaust air (which should drop the temps another couple degrees or so). Is this good so far?

Bad News - I have LIGHT LEAKAGE like a muufucka! It is where the PC Fans are (of course) and where the inlet hole is. Any simple suggestions as to how to block this? The cab is in the corner of a room with white walls and light is just bouncing.

Thanx in advance!
 

7th1der

Well-Known Member
Also, is it stupid to leave the exhaust fan on at all times? to have a constant flow of fresh air or should it be on timer?
 

CaNNaBiZNeSS

Well-Known Member
use a 90 degree 4 inch duct piece, and put the fan on the end? then no light can go through, then go buy some kwikseal caulking, and seal it up, and you should be good, just make sure you get a good enough 90 degree piece, pvc pipe works better but the good black pieces will cost you more than the ducting(doesnt matter) just go to HD. and hit up the plumbing section.
 

CaNNaBiZNeSS

Well-Known Member
and constant flow of fresh air, cmon use logic, isnt that what it would be outdoors blowing in the wind? you are tryna replicate outside as best as you can remember.
 
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