Nutrient order
- Thread starter Cousinbob
- Start date
And the nutrients should go in last always?
PJ Diaz
Well-Known Member
This order:
RO water
Si
base nutes (or part A if using a 2-part)
base nutes part B (if using a 2-part)
Cal/Mag (if needed, or you're just into that kind of thing)
check EC, add water with Si added (@25ppm) to hit desired EC (I always make my initial mix hot and then dilute)
fulvic
seaweed
other additives (if any)
check EC
check ph
RO water
Si
base nutes (or part A if using a 2-part)
base nutes part B (if using a 2-part)
Cal/Mag (if needed, or you're just into that kind of thing)
check EC, add water with Si added (@25ppm) to hit desired EC (I always make my initial mix hot and then dilute)
fulvic
seaweed
other additives (if any)
check EC
check ph
I grow in my own version of organic super soil (just add water) so I don't really understand all the additives, let alone why the "order of march" would be so important. The OP wanted to know what difference it would really make "to the plants" - and the best you can come up with is; it makes the solution cloudy? Who cares if the solution is clear or cloudy, that's a difference without a distinction. What's the point?
bk78
Well-Known Member
Maybe you should mosey on back to the organic section then, bro.
You realize if your solution gets cloudy thats typically a chemical reaction right? And those chemical reactions happen sometimes when adding different things, in different ”order of march“
sf_frankie
Well-Known Member
I always add silica first but have used it as ph up (meaning it went in last) and didn't get any cloudiness. Still try and follow the Si first and CaMg last rule
sf_frankie
Well-Known Member
Correct. When the precipitate they become insoluble, hence the cloudiness.
calvin.m16
Well-Known Member
Silica is something that is important to always add to your plain water first, if you're using Silica. I use NPK Industries Silicon Dioxide seems to be a lot less of a pain in the ass compared to your run of the mill Potassium Silicate additives that love to react with acidic bases.
My advice is follow the feed chart top to bottom of whatever nutrients you're using. Stir each component in and wait a few seconds between adding the next.
This will all become second nature to you soon enough.
My advice is follow the feed chart top to bottom of whatever nutrients you're using. Stir each component in and wait a few seconds between adding the next.
This will all become second nature to you soon enough.
calvin.m16
Well-Known Member
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
Standard potassium silicate products raise the pH anywhere up to 10 in RO water and worse in hard water tho still shouldn't go over 10. Then you want to pH down to around 7 then add your calmag and if using a 3-part nute the Micro goes first then the rest in any order. Finally check the pH after good mixing and allow to stand for 30min or better so it stabilizes. It will change from what it is right after mixing. I run an airstone in my jug as I mix up a batch.
I use the AN pH Perfect nutes and the Rhino Skin silica is designed to work with it so I add that first then all the rest in the same order as above then give it to my plants. No need to check the pH at any stage with RO water. Trying to adjust AN just fucks it up so I trust the tech and it works fine in my ProMix HP or DWC. So much easier than screwing with pH.
In the Promix I use very little calmag as it has lots of dolomitic and calcitic lime in it to supply those minerals. When I recycle 50:50 I just toss in some dolomitic lime and maybe some agricultural gypsum for that extra sulfur so useful in later flowering.
I use the AN pH Perfect nutes and the Rhino Skin silica is designed to work with it so I add that first then all the rest in the same order as above then give it to my plants. No need to check the pH at any stage with RO water. Trying to adjust AN just fucks it up so I trust the tech and it works fine in my ProMix HP or DWC. So much easier than screwing with pH.
In the Promix I use very little calmag as it has lots of dolomitic and calcitic lime in it to supply those minerals. When I recycle 50:50 I just toss in some dolomitic lime and maybe some agricultural gypsum for that extra sulfur so useful in later flowering.
calvin.m16
Well-Known Member
- Water
- Silica
- Base Nutrients
- Cal-Mag+
- Supplements
- PH 5.8-6.2 (Never use same PH value, Fluctuating PH can help with uptake of different components)
Last edited:
NanoGadget
Well-Known Member
GH recommends something similar for use in their DTW feed schedule. This is directly from the .pdfStandard potassium silicate products raise the pH anywhere up to 10 in RO water and worse in hard water tho still shouldn't go over 10. Then you want to pH down to around 7 then add your calmag and if using a 3-part nute the Micro goes first then the rest in any order. Finally check the pH after good mixing and allow to stand for 30min or better so it stabilizes. It will change from what it is right after mixing. I run an airstone in my jug as I mix up a batch.
I use the AN pH Perfect nutes and the Rhino Skin silica is designed to work with it so I add that first then all the rest in the same order as above then give it to my plants. No need to check the pH at any stage with RO water. Trying to adjust AN just fucks it up so I trust the tech and it works fine in my ProMix HP or DWC. So much easier than screwing with pH.
In the Promix I use very little calmag as it has lots of dolomitic and calcitic lime in it to supply those minerals. When I recycle 50:50 I just toss in some dolomitic lime and maybe some agricultural gypsum for that extra sulfur so useful in later flowering.
"
Which comes rst, Armor Si or CALiMAGic?
• When using both Armor Si and CALiMAGic,
add Armor Si to the reservoir rst.
• When using Armor Si and/or CALiMAGic, with Flora Series,
these products should be added prior to adding FloraMicro."
calvin.m16
Well-Known Member
This is why I always refer people to the manufacturer or feed chart. 90% of the time they explain things like this in the foot notes or Q&A on their websites.
sf_frankie
Well-Known Member
Thats what I always do and I've never had an issue. If your rez is well mixed and diluted enough, you actually can add Si last and it won't precipitate but I would not recommend it just because there's a good chance that it will precipitate.
NanoGadget
Well-Known Member
Same. I imagine it varies from system to system, and it seems like the best way to cut through all the conflicting information is to get it straight from the source.
NanoGadget
Well-Known Member
I follow the GH recommendations to the letter regarding mixing order when using the trio line (or the lucas formula variant), and something that anecdotally seems to help stabilize ph and prevent precipitation is letting the Si sit in the RO for at least an hour before continuing the mixing process. It was recommended to by someone and I admit I haven't done the work to find out if there is actual science at play or if I've been bro-scienced, but perhaps its something someone will have more information on.
sf_frankie
Well-Known Member
By letting it sit, you are allowing the Si salts to dissolve into your mixture completely which allows everything to stabilize.
I stir the shit out of my rez. It looks like an angry sea during a hurricane in there. Agitation allows the salts to dissolve quicker...same shit.