Mykos & Trichoderma reesei

[Dreminen169]

I’m using Trichoderma Reesi fungi with great results! I was wondering if anyone knows if It’s pointless/detrimental to use mykos now that I’m using Trichoderma Reesi as my understanding seems to be that the Trichoderma Reesi will outcompete with the other fungai and create secondary metabolites that becomes something that is ineffective. So, should I throw the mykos away? Is my train of thinking on the correct path? Who’s our organic experts here on RIU?

 

[Dreminen169]

Also is anyone using Beauveria bassiana? If so what’s your source? Are you having good results?

 

[Dreminen169]

@sunni @PadawanWarrior @natureboygrower @Leeski who are our organic gurus here on RIU can you tag someone in that may know the answer?

 

[hotrodharley]

They coexist. In nature. Almost certainly in the golf course or park nearest you.

 

[DCcan]

Also is anyone using Beauveria bassiana? If so what’s your source? Are you having good results?

I use it for IPM, no bug issues indoors or out...works in combination with other chems or alternate applications.
Lots of info in study posted. Look at the section...
Constraints related to the compatibility of B. bassiana with biological control agents

Toward the efficient use of Beauveria bassiana in integrated cotton insect pest management - Journal of Cotton Research

Background For controlling the resistance to insects, in particular carpophagous and phyllophagous caterpillars, using chemical pesticides has led to contamination of cotton area in Benin. Facing this problem, alternative methods including the use of entomopathogenic fungi as biopesticide could...

jcottonres.biomedcentral.com

 

[DCcan]

The powder form stays active much longer, plus you don't have to worry about freezing shipment like the liquid base.
Summer ordering is no problem, but the liquid form should not be frozen.

Beauveria bassiana Biopesticides Organic Plant Pest Control

Beauveria bassiana is an entomopathogenic fungi that causes infection in a range of insects including whiteflies, aphids, thrips and more.

www.arbico-organics.com

 

[Dreminen169]

The powder form stays active much longer, plus you don't have to worry about freezing shipment like the liquid base.
Summer ordering is no problem, but the liquid form should not be frozen.

Beauveria bassiana Biopesticides Organic Plant Pest Control

Beauveria bassiana is an entomopathogenic fungi that causes infection in a range of insects including whiteflies, aphids, thrips and more.

www.arbico-organics.com

Do these products from this site all have Beauveria bassiana? Which one are you using with success? I am looking forward to using one as a preventative as well. I’ve heard that they work very very well against most cannabis related pests

 

[natureboygrower]

@Dreminen169
Morning. DCcan is a great source of info as well as harley. Northwood, kratos 015, don petro, rastaroy are a few active members who know organics( not RR so much anymore) I'm forgetting a whole bunch I'm sure ( heavy wake and bake this am ) so I'll probably edit my post with new names throughout the day lol.

Post up in the organic sub next time, you may get more replies to this type of question rather than in the general growing section. Sunni might be able to move it for you.

Shoot, I forgot @Dr. Who . I knew I'd forget some solid cats. Also, thank you Doc on answering my ? on harvesting right before lights on. I've got another question about that. I'll head over to that thread sometime.

 

[Dreminen169]

@sunni do you mind moving this to the organic sub?

 

[natureboygrower]

Can you compost? If you can, start when you can. You may be able to avoid buying some of these products with a rich, healthy compost. And you're own earthworm castings. I have got to get a bin started myself. Been putting it off too long!

 

[Rurumo]

The experts seem divided on the subject, bottom line, they absolutely CAN be used together. Some say to apply the mycorrhizae first, then the trichoderma a week or two later, after it's established, others say the same time is fine. At least one study I've read supports same time application. Personally, I think they work best together-I'm also a HUGE fan of trichoderma and actually think its benefits outweigh mycorrhizae, due to the relatively short time we grow our plants indoors. Also, some studies are showing trichoderma has a big potential to treat PM as a foliar agent.

 

[DCcan]

Do these products from this site all have Beauveria bassiana? Which one are you using with success? I am looking forward to using one as a preventative as well. I’ve heard that they work very very well against most cannabis related pestsView attachment 4824854

I use the WP22 powder for longer shelf life. Definitely need to keep agitating the mix during foliar application.
Botanigard and Mycotrol are the same manufacturer and products, just different markets.
BioCeres WP is another manufacturer, same stuff, probably a slightly different strain.
It's just that powder is geared toward commercial applications and root drenches, liquid for smaller mixes and primarily foliar application.
The powder can use a surfactant to spread evenly and washes off and collects on leaves after a couple rainstorms, so don't panic if you see white buildup after spraying, looks like PM at first glance.

 

[Dreminen169]

Can you compost? If you can, start when you can. You may be able to avoid buying some of these products with a rich, healthy compost. And you're own earthworm castings. I have got to get a bin started myself. Been putting it off too long!

I’ve been looking into maybe like 30 gal totes for vermicomposting. I’ve just been intimidated by what inputs to feed the worms for a balanced output especially for autoflowers, then maybe a different bin for photo’s

 

[Southernontariogrower]

I’ve been looking into maybe like 30 gal totes for vermicomposting. I’ve just been intimidated by what inputs to feed the worms for a balanced output especially for autoflowers, then maybe a different bin for photo’s

Inputs to feed worms? I'd say feed everything to them that way poo is full spectrum, lol full spec poo. Castings are castings, plants love it no matter if worms ate McDonald's or steak and lobster, its all the digestates and enzymes that your after, no? Thanks for info though, I've been using mycos till now, tricoderma and mycos next grow. TY again.

 

[Dr. Who]

The experts seem divided on the subject, bottom line, they absolutely CAN be used together. Some say to apply the mycorrhizae first, then the trichoderma a week or two later, after it's established, others say the same time is fine. At least one study I've read supports same time application. Personally, I think they work best together-I'm also a HUGE fan of trichoderma and actually think its benefits outweigh mycorrhizae, due to the relatively short time we grow our plants indoors. Also, some studies are showing trichoderma has a big potential to treat PM as a foliar agent.

@Dreminen169

Hmm, and I prefer a fungal heavy balance. I really add nothing to my soil mix's but the source for my Bio's is simply the manure's I use. Benefits of farm life. I get these little mushies growing out of the air holes in my pots. Some minor surface ones, from time to time.

I also do my initial soil "wetting" with simple bio tea. I use the bio tea as a watering, about once every 2 weeks.

As far as foliar treatment for PM? That is really an old school use for immature bio tea! Seriously, you pull some tea at 18 hrs of brewing and filter it so it will run through a sprayer. Spray your leaves and it gives 2 weeks or so protection from PM.

As far as Botaniguard goes. Why use it if you don't need it? Costly prevent for things you most likely won't be bothered with.

I run my own worm bins and add about everything but meat, citrus and slick colored/coated advertisements.

I know a cpl guys who use everything but they are running Bokashi in their bins. I have not tried it.

As far as totes go. You'll need a "base" unit with a drain. Then the active tote on top of that. Always fill the next tote to the point that the following one will touch the lowers material. Makes it easier for the worms to migrate up to the next tote.
Make them so they stack. Just like commercial ones work. This also keeps the moisture level comfortable for the worms.
I see way to many simple tote worm bins - drown their worms!
Look carefully for a good home build design first!

 

[DCcan]

As far as Botaniguard goes. Why use it if you don't need it? Costly prevent for things you most likely won't be bothered with.

I needed it to stamp out something indoors, the bag of powder goes a long way. Worth every penny when you need it, wasn't going to start up again until I reached extermination.
I just rolled the remaining powder into a IPM treatment for new indoor plants and house plants, but it really made a bigger difference in the outdoor grow, corn and vegetable gardens. It's cost effective if you look at the increased yield and lowered cost of other treatments, they work well together in tandem and staggered.

 

[Dreminen169]

@Dreminen169

Hmm, and I prefer a fungal heavy balance. I really add nothing to my soil mix's but the source for my Bio's is simply the manure's I use. Benefits of farm life. I get these little mushies growing out of the air holes in my pots. Some minor surface ones, from time to time.

I also do my initial soil "wetting" with simple bio tea. I use the bio tea as a watering, about once every 2 weeks.

As far as foliar treatment for PM? That is really an old school use for immature bio tea! Seriously, you pull some tea at 18 hrs of brewing and filter it so it will run through a sprayer. Spray your leaves and it gives 2 weeks or so protection from PM.

As far as Botaniguard goes. Why use it if you don't need it? Costly prevent for things you most likely won't be bothered with.

I run my own worm bins and add about everything but meat, citrus and slick colored/coated advertisements.

I know a cpl guys who use everything but they are running Bokashi in their bins. I have not tried it.

As far as totes go. You'll need a "base" unit with a drain. Then the active tote on top of that. Always fill the next tote to the point that the following one will touch the lowers material. Makes it easier for the worms to migrate up to the next tote.
Make them so they stack. Just like commercial ones work. This also keeps the moisture level comfortable for the worms.
I see way to many simple tote worm bins - drown their worms!
Look carefully for a good home build design first!

Does putting more of one input than another change the nutrient content/effect the plants differently. Basically are their better castings than others? If so, how do I get the most out of my worms/ Taylor them to a specific crop?

 

[Dr. Who]

I needed it to stamp out something indoors, the bag of powder goes a long way. Worth every penny when you need it, wasn't going to start up again until I reached extermination.
I just rolled the remaining powder into a IPM treatment for new indoor plants and house plants, but it really made a bigger difference in the outdoor grow, corn and vegetable gardens. It's cost effective if you look at the increased yield and lowered cost of other treatments, they work well together in tandem and staggered.

I see clearly now. I DO understand that!

 

[Dr. Who]

Does putting more of one input than another change the nutrient content/effect the plants differently. Basically are their better castings than others? If so, how do I get the most out of my worms/ Taylor them to a specific crop?

Yes, you bet.
Simple example: Mammoth P
It is simply made buy focusing on a single or several specific Bio's that effect P uptake. Then brew the tea with those. Now just how they preserve the effective life of those bio's for packaging is what concerns me.. The price is simply stupid too. I mean you can make a bio tea that reflects that by introducing specific bio's too. I brew my own Bio teas. Some longer running plants that begin to exhaust the nutrients in the soil? Are then feed by nutrient rich bio teas - formulated to cover what's diminishing.

Thing is? The balance between too much P and just right P is a very small line.

Now as far as the worms go...Feed them a broad spectrum of bio source - Get a broad spectrum out. I have no problems with feeding them news print because it's printed with vegetable based inks - Same for most news and "sales" paper weekly's around the globe.
Don't be afraid to introduce things like yard waste (grass clippings - leaves, etc.) to your kitchen scraps - Remember - NO meat or citrus.
I also will feed some alfalfa meal, Rye grass - "cow chow" stuff now and then. Again - the benefit of farm life - Think like a farmer and use some of the things he produces in you bins... Corn husk's (Back to that kitchen waste again), etc....

I feel the broader the spectrum of ingoing stuff. The better out come from the bins.

Now don't forget that liquid that runs from the worm area bins to that lower "holding tank".. That stuff IS LIQUID GOLD to any organic grower!
I use it in brewing Bio and nute teas ! Even some added to watering in my organic runs - from time to time.

 

[DCcan]

Now as far as the worms go...Feed them a broad spectrum of bio source - Get a broad spectrum out. I have no problems with feeding them news print because it's printed with vegetable based inks - Same for most news and "sales" paper weekly's around the globe.

The shiny coating is usually silca rich clay, low cation exchange, no issues.

Kaolinite - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org