graying.geek
Well-Known Member
Yes. These are mutually exclusive methods of rez maintenance.
Using food grade H202 (35%) in hydro reservoir
- Thread starter jonnynobody
- Start date
Auggie1228
Member
Thank you. I'm running dwc for the first time and I was told to use hydroguard but ended up getting some brown roots so I wash and flushed with H2O2 just wondering when I should introduce hydroguard again. and also should I mix hydro guard into my bucket first and then have a separate nutrient mix to add as needed?
graying.geek
Well-Known Member
H2O2 breaks down fast in an operating system. It's pretty much gone after a couple of hours.
ÒÒlegilizeitÒÒ
Well-Known Member
Sometime can take acouple days
I prefer to run sterile from start fo finnish. You can then use h2o2 anytime.
Hydroguard has failed me several times when the water got too warm.
You can run a sterile rez using a product like UC root, or some have found success with chlorine or bleach
newbplantgrower420
Well-Known Member
do the submersible uv pumps in reservoirs only prevent/fight algae or do they kill bad bacteria and prevent root rot?
graying.geek
Well-Known Member
The benefits can last several days, but H2O2 breaks down in a matter of hours in nutrient solution with organic matter. Wait a couple of hours or a couple of days.
For bennies, Southern Ag Garden Friendly Fungicide is the bees knees. Lately, I've been going away from H2O2 to Pool Shock for my room temp hydro buckets. Seems equally effective, and much, much cheaper.ÒÒlegilizeitÒÒ: said:
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graying.geek
Well-Known Member
I've tried one of these, and it did a good job of keeping the free floating fungi at bay, algae had a tendency to stick to the walls, thus avoiding the kill chamber.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
Yes. It will attack anything organic but will target anaerobic stuff first so tends to target bad bacteria and fungi that causes root rot with just a little damage to healthy tissue.
Auggie1228
Member
Hey guys thanks for all your help I just want to start from the beginning so all the info's out I'm running two deep water culture buckets with hydroguard and advanced nutrients 3-part pH perfect base nutrient... about to transplant into 5 gallon buckets from 3.5 ever since transplant from cloner has been showing signs of root rot.. but the actual plant looks great and has been growing fine.. first time I noticed black / Brown Roots I just washed with H2O2 and that clean them up really good but every time I do a water change all my roots go back to black and brown.. feels as if I'm doing everything right.. I'm keeping an generous space between water and bottom of pots there are no light leaks at all my water temperatures are constantly at 70 degrees... Should I just switch to sterile res? With H2O2? I got a whole bottle of 3% food grade how would I even do that so every water change instead of hydroguard + 30 mils per gallon of 3%?
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Star Dog
Well-Known Member
That's a bit pricey? Here's 5ltr 49% h2o2 for 30 quid, you'll need to check out
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I've only just got a gallon I've not actually used it yet. Chlorine is another possibility it's used by many growers, bleach is also effective and widely used but I've not had any experience with it.
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I've only just got a gallon I've not actually used it yet. Chlorine is another possibility it's used by many growers, bleach is also effective and widely used but I've not had any experience with it.
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Star Dog
Well-Known Member
BioClean Aqua Water Treatment | East Riding Farm Services
BioClean Aqua Water Treatment
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
3% food grade? No such thing as far as I know. The 3% bought at drug stores here has stabilizers and preservatives in it to help prevent it breaking down when diluted so low and is definitely not food grade. To treat root rot with 35% food grade peroxide you need to use at least 2ml/L/day for 2 or 3 days at least. 4ml/L for bad infections. To get the same strength using 3% you have to use 11x as much so 22 - 44ml/L or 88 - 172ml/gal.
Regardless of which you use you should cut off most of the roots. It would be best if you had fresh pails pre-loaded with a lower level of your nutes and the peroxide so you could lift the plant out, cut off the bad roots and put it on the new pail. Wouldn't hurt to have a spray bottle with a bit stronger peroxide to spray the roots that are left before putting it on the clean pail.
There is also the problem of cleaning the net pots. I would pre-mix my stuff and keep half of it in a water jug so once the plants were on a new tub half full of nutes I'd pour the kept-back portion thru the net pots to help kill the bad bacteria in them. One time I put the lid with the plants on an empty tub and poured thru some stronger peroxide, let it sit for a few minutes then poured some RO water thru to rinse them before placing the lid on top of the fresh tub of nutes with the added peroxide. The air stones should be soaked in fairly strong peroxide or bleach and the airline needs cleaning too. Easier to just use new ones tho.
PITA I know but much easier that cleaning out an RDWC system or something like aeroponics where there are a lot more places for infection to hide.
Good luck!
Wastei
Well-Known Member
Please tell us how you measure this?
"The average degradation half-life for hydrogen peroxide in the atmosphere (from different atmospheric conditions) is 24 hours."
In aerated water with degrading plant matter the half-life is practically a couple of hours like stated above.
ÒÒlegilizeitÒÒ
Well-Known Member
24 hours with full exposure
It doesn't disipate in the bottle in 24 hours
Maybe its bro science but I've researched it can take a couple few dayd
Wastei
Well-Known Member
Keeping bacterial growth at bay and sterilizing is one thing, residual effect and dosing frequency another.
While H2O2 is effective at sterilizing and killing bacteria, it has very short to no residual effect. You may even get away with dosing once a week, that doesn't mean the compound (hydrogen peroxide) is active at sterilizing for the whole week. Hope that make sense, Cheers!
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
That's correct. It will last about 24 hours at most in the tank. Some is lost to degredation but most will be used up oxidizing organics. Mainly anerobic, (dead and rotting), materials but if none present it will still oxidize healthy tissue like feeder roots and the roots themselves. Small maintenance amounts like 0.5ml/L of 35% won't hurt healthy roots at all tho.
When I used it regularly I'd wait 24 hours after using before adding something like Big Bud to the tubs as it has a lot of amino acids in it and they, being organic, can be destroyed. The nutrients themselves are inorganic mineral salts and won't be affected tho chelated minerals could lose their chelation as it's an organic substance too.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
It's weird that peroxide tastes like bleach but has zero chlorine in it. Some people drink the stuff too but not the 3% from the drug store. Only food grade. I gargle with colloidal silver. Doesn't have much taste but fixes abscessed teeth.
jonnynobody
Well-Known Member
I just accidentally read this post and I had an epiphany. Maybe jonny is doing things all wrong here making life harder on his self than needed. I hate changing reservoirs. Let me say that again. I hate changing reservoirs. If I can use that pool shock and get away with not constantly cleaning and sanitizing my reservoir I'm onboard. I wouldn't give the suggestion much consideration if it came from anyone else. Thanks dude. I actually have a bag of hth pool shock on hand I bought off amazon like 4 years ago, because guys were talking about using that instead of more costly options with great success. For some reason I was afraid I'd fuck up the ratio and cause problems so I never actually used it. I'm going to apply .3g to my 30 gallon reservoir and see how it goes. Stoked to the fucking tits dude! Winning the lottery? That's cool, sure. Solving a back breaking problem that forever makes your life easier - priceless.
Renfro
Well-Known Member
The difficult part is the chlorine breaks down and does need to be replaced in time, so you either have to change out or you have to add some but home much can be a mystery unless you can test for chlorine ppm with strips etc. Same situation with H2O2 but I am unsure how you can test for whats left when add backs are required.