DIY T-Slot Aluminum Light Frame/Fixture Advice Wanted

[pulpoinspace]

End pieces making any frame build "easier" or "better" I get. But I don't get the truss head screws suggestion, when I might as well just use tnuts...not sure specifically why you're suggesting these screws. Also, are you saying screw a tnut (or truss screw, whatever the case) directly to the heatsink? Won't work; can't tighten in place, and see dimensions of heatsink.

You can use t-nuts if you want. Yes directly into the heat sink. What do you mean it can't tighten in place? m4x10 fits directly into the holes on the side of the heatsink. m4x12 sticks out a little. m4x15 sticks out a half a centimeter.

Do you mean that once you have it slid to the spot where you want it you'd also like some mechanism to lock it there?

I can guarantee it works as this is how my SSTX heatsinks have been sliding in and out of my frame for years now!

I suggested trusshead screws cause you can get a pack of M4x15 truss head screws for the same cost as 1 specially made t-nut.

 

[Renfro]

Do you mean that once you have it slid to the spot where you want it you'd also like some mechanism to lock it there?

I think that's what he is after.

 

[Renfro]

You can use t-nuts if you want. Yes directly into the heat sink. What do you mean it can't tighten in place? m4x10 fits directly into the holes on the side of the heatsink. m4x12 sticks out a little. m4x15 sticks out a half a centimeter.

Do you mean that once you have it slid to the spot where you want it you'd also like some mechanism to lock it there?

I can guarantee it works as this is how my SSTX heatsinks have been sliding in and out of my frame for years now!

I suggested trusshead screws cause you can get a pack of M4x15 truss head screws for the same cost as 1 specially made t-nut.

Would a truss head screw be similar to a pan head? What prevents it from rotation in the slot causing the heatsink to rotate? Or am I missing something?

 

[DarkWeb]

I didn't say it was complicated. You said "very simple". I said it's simple to think of, or to know what tools might be used, but not so simple to actually execute.
I don't think you're actually envisioning each and every step of this, and the tricky parts of it, as though you were going to do it (not to mention the tediousness of it, especially if things are going to line up and fit nicely). You're kinda just showing me some tools that cut and drill, along with an idea.

Yes, I have all those tools and more.

I want to use tslot extrusion; I'm asking about tslot extrusion. I've kinda passed on the idea of using angle aluminum and trying to turn it into something with a slot in it (because I thoroughly considered it).
As the thread/op says, I want to move on from angle aluminum to tslot.

Thanks.

I don't know what you mean by "execute"......that could be lack of tooling or ability. So don't take me the wrong way. Just like if you walked in to my shop and wanted a job.....how do I know you can do it......by telling me or showing me?

Here this site can help you figure out all the parts you need for t-slot alu. https://www.framingtech.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIscKwkpHv7QIVSKiGCh12Qg8GEAAYASAAEgKW7_D_BwE

 

[pulpoinspace]

I think that's what he is after.

That is trickier. I have cable ties between my heatsinks that prevent them from sliding too far. and gravity of course prevents them from sliding while its hung up. But when i take it down they do freely all slide and rest against the cable ties.

Would a truss head screw be similar to a pan head? What prevents it from rotation in the slot causing the heatsink to rotate? Or am I missing something?

Yeah same as a panhead or very similar. Im not 100% sure i understand the question, but I screw mine in all the way. The holes on the heatsink are only around ~10mm deep so with a m4x12 or 15 the truss or pan sticks out just enough to slide into the t slot.

 

[DarkWeb]

Would a truss head screw be similar to a pan head? What prevents it from rotation in the slot causing the heatsink to rotate? Or am I missing something?

Kinda.... similar dimensions just a truss head would be smoother and have less edge to catch on.

 

[pulpoinspace]

I'll have to brain storm this but it seems like if you want them to be movable but also lock in place you'd have to use the underside or outside t-slots not the inside. That way you can maintain access to tightening the screws in the t slots. Doable with mending braces and probably some other similar small bracketry you could find at home depot.

 

[pulpoinspace]

Using a 90degree corner bracket and the tslot on the bottom of the frame seems like it could work, no? Could just loosen the screws going up into the frame to slide them, leave the screws into the heatwinks tight.

14061

10 & 25 Series 2 Hole - 18mm Slotted Inside Corner Bracket with Dual Support

8020.net

For the hardware going up into the frame you would need tslot set but the screw going into the heatsink could be any old m4.

 

[Renfro]

Using a 90degree corner bracket and the tslot on the bottom of the frame seems like it could work, no? Could just loosen the screws going up into the frame to slide them, leave the screws into the heatwinks tight.

14061

10 & 25 Series 2 Hole - 18mm Slotted Inside Corner Bracket with Dual Support

8020.net

If that didn't have the angles on the sides, like an L and if the heat sink has holes on the face near the edge then I could see that.

 

[pulpoinspace]

If that didn't have the angles on the sides, like an L and if the heat sink has holes on the face near the edge then I could see that.

4113

10 Series 4 Hole - Wide Inside Corner Bracket

8020.net

like so? for added bonus these holes are 1" apart. please dont make me go measure how far apart the holes are on an sstx!!! they do have holes on the face edges, 2 on 2 of the sides, not sure they are 1" apart tho.

 

[Renfro]

4113

10 Series 4 Hole - Wide Inside Corner Bracket

8020.net

like so? for added bonus these holes are 1" apart. please dont make me go measure how far apart the holes are on an sstx!!! they do have holes on the face edges, 2 on 2 of the sides, not sure they are 1" apart tho.

That would work I think. The dual screws into the T-Slot would keep the heat sink oriented.

 

[2com]

You can use t-nuts if you want. Yes directly into the heat sink. What do you mean it can't tighten in place? m4x10 fits directly into the holes on the side of the heatsink. m4x12 sticks out a little. m4x15 sticks out a half a centimeter.

OK. Thanks for clarifying.

Do you mean that once you have it slid to the spot where you want it you'd also like some mechanism to lock it there?

Yes. Exactly. (Otherwise, it's the same setup as the rapidled rails kit they sell).

I can guarantee it works as this is how my SSTX heatsinks have been sliding in and out of my frame for years now!

Thanks, was hoping someone who actually had them would chime in. But, what I'm looking to do won't work, as there'll be no way to tighten them in a given place along the side rails/frame.

I suggested trusshead screws cause you can get a pack of M4x15 truss head screws for the same cost as 1 specially made t-nut.

Ok, makes sense. And I was thinking you were suggesting to use the head of a truss screw to slide in the actual tslot, instead of a tnut. Haha. You're just suggesting cheaper screws/bolts - not actual tnuts. Ok. Thanks.

Replies in body.

 

[2com]

Would a truss head screw be similar to a pan head? What prevents it from rotation in the slot causing the heatsink to rotate? Or am I missing something?

I think you confused the same thing I did. He's suggesting cheaper screws to enter the tnut, not an alternative TO a tnut. (he can correct if wrong).

 

[2com]

I'll have to brain storm this but it seems like if you want them to be movable but also lock in place you'd have to use the underside or outside t-slots not the inside. That way you can maintain access to tightening the screws in the t slots. Doable with mending braces and probably some other similar small bracketry you could find at home depot.

And now you all see where I'm at and why I'm asking. Haha.

4113

10 Series 4 Hole - Wide Inside Corner Bracket

8020.net

like so? for added bonus these holes are 1" apart. please dont make me go measure how far apart the holes are on an sstx!!! they do have holes on the face edges, 2 on 2 of the sides, not sure they are 1" apart tho.

No need, they're not even in the same place on all of them, lol. You don't have to measure anything, bro.

So now I think we're seeing the little particulars that require a bit of thought. You're coming up with all the thoughts I've been considering for the past couple weeks, haha.
With the SSTX, and using angle, which way to orientate it? The pins "flay" outwards. Is it tall enough be access and screw through toward the inner tslot....through the forest of 3 or 4 inch tall pins? Probably not. Also, the ledge/depth of the angle (for example 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/8") interferes with the actual qb96 board and overlaps it on the mounting surface of the SSTX.

I mentioned *all* of this stuff in earlier post (I'm not finger wagging. I'm just pointing out that I did spend time thinking this stuff through before asking for input, lol).

Mounting the lights above the frame isn't ideal (frame blocks light). Mounting brackets to heatsink in a way that hangs to low will interfere with light output.

I think I have the SSTX decided for an option. The one I mentioned a few posts back; a bracket that extends the side face out on each side, add holes, screw through them outward, into inside tslot of rails/frame.
Not sure on slate 2 yet.

Having end pieces on these "frames" would be nice for hanging points. Either way I choose, I'm wondering if some tnuts with 1/2-20 thread and matching eye-bolts would be cheapest. I'd need one for each corner...4 per fixture, fuck. Probably cheaper than adding end pieces and then using single eye-bolts on each end...

Thanks guys. Once I exhaust all the options and realize nothing is perfect, I'll finally choose something, and be unimpressed with how it turned out! Hahaha. Just kidding.

 

[pulpoinspace]

And now you all see where I'm at and why I'm asking. Haha.


No need, they're not even in the same place on all of them, lol. You don't have to measure anything, bro.

So now I think we're seeing the little particulars that require a bit of thought. You're coming up with all the thoughts I've been considering for the past couple weeks, haha.
With the SSTX, and using angle, which way to orientate it? The pins "flay" outwards. Is it tall enough be access and screw through toward the inner tslot....through the forest of 3 or 4 inch tall pins? Probably not. Also, the ledge/depth of the angle (for example 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/8") interferes with the actual qb96 board and overlaps it on the mounting surface of the SSTX.

I mentioned *all* of this stuff in earlier post (I'm not finger wagging. I'm just pointing out that I did spend time thinking this stuff through before asking for input, lol).

Mounting the lights above the frame isn't ideal (frame blocks light). Mounting brackets to heatsink in a way that hangs to low will interfere with light output.

I think I have the SSTX decided for an option. The one I mentioned a few posts back; a bracket that extends the side face out on each side, add holes, screw through them outward, into inside tslot of rails/frame.
Not sure on slate 2 yet.

Having end pieces on these "frames" would be nice for hanging points. Either way I choose, I'm wondering if some tnuts with 1/2-20 thread and matching eye-bolts would be cheapest. I'd need one for each corner...4 per fixture, fuck. Probably cheaper than adding end pieces and then using single eye-bolts on each end...

Thanks guys. Once I exhaust all the options and realize nothing is perfect, I'll finally choose something, and be unimpressed with how it turned out! Hahaha. Just kidding.

Do you know which SSTX heatsinks you're getting? If you're getting em from HLG the ones I had all had the two tapped screws on opposite face edges.

The bracket you're describing sounds exactly like the way timber attaches their heatsinks to their frames. You can probably just ask @RainDan about the dimensions of those brackets or where to get them. Timber is a super cool company.

 

[2com]

Do you know which SSTX heatsinks you're getting? If you're getting em from HLG the ones I had all had the two tapped screws on opposite face edges.

The bracket you're describing sounds exactly like the way timber attaches their heatsinks to their frames. You can probably just ask @RainDan about the dimensions of those brackets or where to get them. Timber is a super cool company.

View attachment 4779683

I have the SSTX heatsinks from HLG that come with qb96 v2 boards. As you know, they have two holes on opposite sides (vertical plane). Now, on some of them the holes are closer together than others, but that's not a big problem.

The bracket I'm describing for these does sound like what it looks like Timber is using in that image. Something like that would be perfect.

I just searched internet for "sstx", and your thread was the top hit - you're famous. https://www.rollitup.org/t/qb96-elite-v2-w-sstx-heatsink-question.977654/.
I'm just having a peak at it now.

Thanks a lot man!

 

[2com]

Here's a better look at the bracket / mounting method that Timber uses for their (sstx?) heatsinks to mount them to tslot, for anyone who's curious. It's exactly what I arrived at when pondering how to best do this:

Gavita 1700e or Timber Redwood VS?

Hello! Planning to pick up a new light but can’t decide between the Gavita 1700e or the Timber Redwood VS. Cost is not an issue, just looking for the best of the two! Planning to use it in a 4x4 growing in soil. Also, could a guy get away with putting a Timber Fatty VS into a 4x4? I understand...

www.rollitup.org

I'll probably use either some type of 90* "L" angle "bracket" for the qb288s, or I'll do the same style long bracket as for the sstx but with a 90* twist in the bracket on either end - giving my a vertical plane to screw through.

Thanks again all of you.

 

[2com]

Another cool way to hang SSTX heatsinks without having to change/remove this type of tslot "bracket": https://growace.com/timber-grow-light-single-daisy-led-grow-light-system.html.

You could loosen heatsink(s) from their tnuts, then remove heatsink(s) from the rails, and use the bolt holes at each corner of the heatsink'(s) brackets as hanging points using your preferred method (clips, hooks, rope, wire, rope-ratchets, or as seen in the pic in the link, etc.). Added versatility, cool.

 

[pulpoinspace]

Another cool way to hang SSTX heatsinks without having to change/remove this type of tslot "bracket": https://growace.com/timber-grow-light-single-daisy-led-grow-light-system.html.

You could loosen heatsink(s) from their tnuts, then remove heatsink(s) from the rails, and use the bolt holes at each corner of the heatsink'(s) brackets as hanging points using your preferred method (clips, hooks, rope, wire, rope-ratchets, or as seen in the pic in the link, etc.). Added versatility, cool.

These brackets are really sweet. So the question remains if Timber will sell the brackets a la carte and if the HLG heatsinks are tapped in the right spots for them. Otherwise seems they'd be pretty easy to machine them yourself if you have the facilities. I sure don't.

 

[2com]

These brackets are really sweet. So the question remains if Timber will sell the brackets a la carte and if the HLG heatsinks are tapped in the right spots for them. Otherwise seems they'd be pretty easy to machine them yourself if you have the facilities. I sure don't.

I doubt they'd be cost efficient, especially sending them to canada.
They'd need to be about 6.5" long. I might end up having to find/use some flat aluminum bar and cut my own pieces to length and drill them all (if I want them to be cheap).