2 quick questions

Jimbo the Gael

Well-Known Member
One reason mag deficiencies show up in flower is that magnesium is important for the formation of terpenes. So is sulfur. You get both from epsom salts. @cannabineer is right to suggest gypsum for people who have plants that are calcium hogs, and need a bit of sulfur though.

This next part is kind of hearsay, as I haven't grown autos. But I have helped a grower friend of mine with his. While autos are more sensitive to transplant shock than photos, it is sometimes overstated. If you are skilled at transplanting you can transplant them without any problem like my friend. He treats them like photos, and since he has the knack of transplanting almost any plant without shock, he has no problems. It can be done. But sites like this you really need to go with the lowest common denominator. Like the people who made the "not for internal use" warning necessary for shampoo.

I'm looking forward to this time next year when I can drop the "I've never grown autos myself" disclaimer. I've been reading everything I can find on them, following threads and grow journals for years. I'll still probably fuck it up next season when I grow them myself, but it'll still be a relief.
 

Eugenios

Well-Known Member
That burning in the margins is pH fluctuations.

Are u pHing ur nutes and with what? As long as it’s 5.5-8-0 it’s fine for soil. Messing about with it can cause more harm than good.
That's strange considering I always pH at 6.2-6.5 and I always dip my pH pen in a pH7 solution just to make sure it's calibrated.
 

Nutty sKunK

Well-Known Member
That's strange considering I always pH at 6.2-6.5 and I always dip my pH pen in a pH7 solution just to make sure it's calibrated.
That’s the issue. pH your water then leave it. Every few hrs check the pH. It’s most likely drifting.

It can also happen if roots hit dry pockets in the pot..
 

Eugenios

Well-Known Member
That’s the issue. pH your water then leave it. Every few hrs check the pH. It’s most likely drifting.

It can also happen if roots hit dry pockets in the pot..
Oh interesting. Thanks. Ok I will pH my solution and leave it for like 2-3 hours? About the dry pockets, it's also possible because I never rinse my soil before planting my seeds. Should have rinsed it like you do with coco bricks.
 

Nutty sKunK

Well-Known Member
Oh interesting. Thanks. Ok I will pH my solution and leave it for like 2-3 hours? About the dry pockets, it's also possible because I never rinse my soil before planting my seeds. Should have rinsed it like you do with coco bricks.
What are u pHing with?

Yea it’s best to evenly soak the soil wait a few days then transplant/plant seed.

Trouble is big pot little plant. Their roots go primarily down and out. So to properly water the plant is hard. Unless you soak the medium completely but then that over waters them!

Autos can be transplanted but you need to know how to transplant properly and water after..

For now just ignore it and watch for further symptoms. The plant will soon establish a proper sized rootball for that pot.
 

Eugenios

Well-Known Member
What are u pHing with?

Yea it’s best to evenly soak the soil wait a few days then transplant/plant seed.

Trouble is big pot little plant. Their roots go primarily down and out. So to properly water the plant is hard. Unless you soak the medium completely but then that over waters them!

Autos can be transplanted but you need to know how to transplant properly and water after..

For now just ignore it and watch for further symptoms. The plant will soon establish a proper sized rootball for that pot.
I swear this is the last time I put the seeds directly in their final pot. Since the auto is 17days old, I have started nutes at 1/2 strength. In 500mL(1/8 gal) of water I first mix Silicon Max and then wait for 30mins. Then I add GH CalMag, Epsom Salts, BioBizz BioGrow (everything at 1/2 strength)and then I pH with Vitalink pH down to 6.2-6.5, and then I water my plant. There are no rust spots on the newer set of leaves and there is a slight increase of rust on the already rusted leaves. What confuses me is that the first leaves are rusty on the tips and the second set of leaves just have 2-3 circular rust spots. It doesn't look that serious to be honest but I get jealous when others have the greenest plants and I don't :(
 

Boatguy

Well-Known Member
I swear this is the last time I put the seeds directly in their final pot. Since the auto is 17days old, I have started nutes at 1/2 strength. In 500mL(1/8 gal) of water I first mix Silicon Max and then wait for 30mins. Then I add GH CalMag, Epsom Salts, BioBizz BioGrow (everything at 1/2 strength)and then I pH with Vitalink pH down to 6.2-6.5, and then I water my plant. There are no rust spots on the newer set of leaves and there is a slight increase of rust on the already rusted leaves. What confuses me is that the first leaves are rusty on the tips and the second set of leaves just have 2-3 circular rust spots. It doesn't look that serious to be honest but I get jealous when others have the greenest plants and I don't :(
That may be your problem right there.
Even my established plants only get half strength nutes in soil. And i only feed every 3rd watering. Underfeeding is easier to correct than overfeeding.
 

P10p

Well-Known Member
Dont feed nutes at day 17, that's too early.

And your plants looks like a classic ph problem. Double check your methods and instruments.

This is why I never mess with ph pens. Too wonky with calibration. Get a 4 pack of commercial grade test strips for 10 bucks and you're set forever. If not that use the ph liquid drops.
 

Eugenios

Well-Known Member
That may be your problem right there.
Even my established plants only get half strength nutes in soil. And i only feed every 3rd watering. Underfeeding is easier to correct than overfeeding.
And which medium are you using?
 

Eugenios

Well-Known Member
Dont feed nutes at day 17, that's too early.

And your plants looks like a classic ph problem. Double check your methods and instruments.

This is why I never mess with ph pens. Too wonky with calibration. Get a 4 pack of commercial grade test strips for 10 bucks and you're set forever. If not that use the ph liquid drops.
Thanks but it really doesn't look like a pH problem to me and I'm also growing in soil so the chances for pH fluctuations are even less.
 

Eugenios

Well-Known Member
Just a little update guys. Day 19. Gorilla Glue Auto grown in BioBizz Light. I've done some research and it's either CalDef or Rust fungi. I also let my solution sit for 7 hours or so and it didn't change, so it can't be pH fluctuations, especially in soil. Any ideas? Thank you.
 

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