Leaf tips - too much light
- Thread starter BurntByFire
- Start date
BurntByFire
Active Member
MG and P uptake at 5.8 and higher and I have been sitting at 5.7 steady for a week with zero fluctuation so there could also be a tad bit of Mg deficit.
Maybe I'll up my ph to 5.9 to allow Mg and P to uptake more
I'll hold tight at 650 - 700ppm
Sunday night I did hit 950 which is probably too high
I may also switch to bud booster mid formula which a lower nitrogen content then bud booster early.
Also you don't think lights have anything to do with this?
Maybe I'll up my ph to 5.9 to allow Mg and P to uptake more
I'll hold tight at 650 - 700ppm
Sunday night I did hit 950 which is probably too high
I may also switch to bud booster mid formula which a lower nitrogen content then bud booster early.
Also you don't think lights have anything to do with this?
BurntByFire
Active Member
Yep I use pure RO water and I am using current culture cococal for calcium
Midwestsmoker419
Well-Known Member
What are the temps? I grow in coco and always keep ph at 5.9 is 5.7 ok for uc?
BurntByFire
Active Member
Temps are at 68deg
UC is usually 5.5 to 6.5 and you want to see a swing but I haven't been swinging. Just water down and nutes down. Ph doesn't move.
UC is usually 5.5 to 6.5 and you want to see a swing but I haven't been swinging. Just water down and nutes down. Ph doesn't move.
BurntByFire
Active Member
Yep I use pure RO water and I am using current culture cococal for calcium
BurntByFire
Active Member
What are your thoughts on potassium deficit? Often times potassium shortage shows as nute burn...
I know you say my nutes are too high, but what if I'm adding my nutes to fast and or straight undiluted into my rez?
Let me ask....
I know you say my nutes are too high, but what if I'm adding my nutes to fast and or straight undiluted into my rez?
70's natureboy
Well-Known Member
I thought they might need more light but I didn't see what lights are being used. I don't know why cal mag is not being used with ro water. I never heard of that calcium stuff. it sounds like an experiment so far.
mr4tune
Well-Known Member
straight undiluted into your rez? Tell me your not going this dude lol. That's a superb way to shock the fuck out of your plants in the buckets closest to the epi or wherever your putting the solution into.
I'm also confused as you first said your plants were eating 100+ ppm a day. Now you've mentioned you hit 950... Is that you adding in too much or the ppms now rising on their own? I'm running DIY systems, not the current culture. Same shit, different price. Few questions...
Do you use their top-off reservoir? or are you solely measuring your fluid level from your epi bucket? (How do you know how much they are drinking)?
What is your process of adding back / topping up?
When was the last time you did do a complete system flush? (As in drain the system, and put new nutrients and water in, not running straight water)
How much of the coco cal are you putting in?
When was the last time you calibrated your meter?
With UC, the best part is that if you start to experience something fucked up, you drain your system, mix new nutes, ph correct to 5.5, and wait 24 hours.
To me something doesn't add up that you've had zero pH fluctuations in an entire week. Thats a red flag. Especially given your ppm numbers have had a huge fluctuation on Sunday. Short of you monocropping the exact same cut and knowing what it needs at every week, you should have seen a fluctuation. Especially if your ppm hit a higher number for whatever reason. Id seriously take a look at your ph meter for starters.
I had a few issues with a calcium deficiency when I first started in these systems. The pH range is 5.5 - 6.3 as you know. Well I'd set it at 5.5 and then 2 days later I'd be at 6.0, and then it would seem to take forever to hit 6.3... I thought I had to wait to hit 6.3. In reality what was happening is that the plants were eating like mofos (water dropping, pH rising) and they are cal mag hogs in these systems especially with RO. Anyways, calcium is locked out above 5.8 or 5.9 so I was in essence doing great for the first 2 days, then locking my plants out for the other 3 or 4. I'd flush, pH adjust to 5.5 and then they'd do good for a few days until I hit the same wall again. If your pH meter is fine, and the stars alignment for that perfect balance in order for you to not see a pH fluctuation (which i highly doubt is the case), then you could simply drop your ppm's by 100 or 150. That would allow your plants to eat more than what is in the solution and then you would see your pH start to rise, water level drop, and know full well that your doing perfect. I don't believe in pushing the ppms high enough so that you hit that "perfect" spot and the pH doesn't move. Fuck that, that's a recipe for disaster and something will get locked out.
You need to get your system dialed in dude, your almost there. Stop worrying that your light is too close. If you think that's the case then put it up 6" - 12" and watch. I cant almost guarantee it wont affect anything.
I'm also confused as you first said your plants were eating 100+ ppm a day. Now you've mentioned you hit 950... Is that you adding in too much or the ppms now rising on their own? I'm running DIY systems, not the current culture. Same shit, different price. Few questions...
Do you use their top-off reservoir? or are you solely measuring your fluid level from your epi bucket? (How do you know how much they are drinking)?
What is your process of adding back / topping up?
When was the last time you did do a complete system flush? (As in drain the system, and put new nutrients and water in, not running straight water)
How much of the coco cal are you putting in?
When was the last time you calibrated your meter?
With UC, the best part is that if you start to experience something fucked up, you drain your system, mix new nutes, ph correct to 5.5, and wait 24 hours.
To me something doesn't add up that you've had zero pH fluctuations in an entire week. Thats a red flag. Especially given your ppm numbers have had a huge fluctuation on Sunday. Short of you monocropping the exact same cut and knowing what it needs at every week, you should have seen a fluctuation. Especially if your ppm hit a higher number for whatever reason. Id seriously take a look at your ph meter for starters.
I had a few issues with a calcium deficiency when I first started in these systems. The pH range is 5.5 - 6.3 as you know. Well I'd set it at 5.5 and then 2 days later I'd be at 6.0, and then it would seem to take forever to hit 6.3... I thought I had to wait to hit 6.3. In reality what was happening is that the plants were eating like mofos (water dropping, pH rising) and they are cal mag hogs in these systems especially with RO. Anyways, calcium is locked out above 5.8 or 5.9 so I was in essence doing great for the first 2 days, then locking my plants out for the other 3 or 4. I'd flush, pH adjust to 5.5 and then they'd do good for a few days until I hit the same wall again. If your pH meter is fine, and the stars alignment for that perfect balance in order for you to not see a pH fluctuation (which i highly doubt is the case), then you could simply drop your ppm's by 100 or 150. That would allow your plants to eat more than what is in the solution and then you would see your pH start to rise, water level drop, and know full well that your doing perfect. I don't believe in pushing the ppms high enough so that you hit that "perfect" spot and the pH doesn't move. Fuck that, that's a recipe for disaster and something will get locked out.
You need to get your system dialed in dude, your almost there. Stop worrying that your light is too close. If you think that's the case then put it up 6" - 12" and watch. I cant almost guarantee it wont affect anything.
mr4tune
Well-Known Member
And for the record, rkymtnman I'm sorry I called you an idiot. The focus should be on helping this bro out, not arguing. I just dont agree with what you had to say, but I could have ignored it rather than thrown fuel on the fire. We all have our own opinions and advice to give. Its up to the OP to decided which of it he so chooses to go with.
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
why did you edit out your comment that is what plants should look like? "Your plants are developing bud sites and that color is normal".
plants should have burnt tips??? and extremely dark green leaf margins like pic 2???
you guys have fun. i'm out. good luck in your grow OP.
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
i've grown in dwc or rdwc for over a decade. and flushing for 24hrs with plain water and then starting back on light nutes has always worked for me.
like i said, you guys figure it out.
mr4tune
Well-Known Member
Because I never bothered to look at the pictures of the plants. I saw you saying flush with water when the guy is saying that his plants are drinking and eating massive amounts and his pH is staying the same. Once I looked at the pics I saw you were right with the mg correction.
Your the first person I have ever seen say to flush with pure water. LIterally every person and post I have come across has advised to drain the system, add back in nutrients, and then monitor. TO each their own. Thanks for making me regret my apology.
Your the first person I have ever seen say to flush with pure water. LIterally every person and post I have come across has advised to drain the system, add back in nutrients, and then monitor. TO each their own. Thanks for making me regret my apology.
BurntByFire
Active Member
Ok so
1. Yes I hit 950 ppm but that was by adding too much nutrient. The plants did not increase it. Currently since I posted its down to 720 now since I posted this. Thats how much they have eaten
2. I use RO and I add current cultures Coco cal
Cultured Solutions Coco Cal - Current Culture H2O
Availability: In stock Lead time: Ships in 1-3 business days
cch2o.com
3. I am also using their bloom A and bloom B and bud booster early
4. I am using the add back kit but the nutrients are adding back at full strength from that mini reservoir.
5. Yes the ph sat for over a week at 5.7 didn't move at all. In that week the plants ate close to 1000ppm and 30 gallons of water. I was suspicious so I calibrated my blue lab guardian probe and it was good, but still no Flux in ph.
So as of last night I upped my PH to 6.0.
Left ppm at 720. I'll maintain 700ppm
Dropped lights from 100 percent to 90 percent
Keep Carbon dioxide at current levels
I'll switch from bloom early to bloom mid which reduces nitrogen and increases p and mg
Keep res Temps at 66
From here ill monitor and report back
Why would there be zero fluctiation in PH if they eat 100ppm daily and drink roughly 5 gallons daily?
BurntByFire
Active Member
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
you should google more.
You will also need to flush them, and the growing medium with fresh pH balanced water. This process will fix the salt buildup and allow your plants to gain access to nutrients --- from way of leaf, how to fix nutrient lockout.
and in a multi plant system, some plants can be nute locked and not eating and some can be eating just fine.
BurntByFire
Active Member
I just want to add one other piece of info
The ph completely stopped when I switched from veg to flower.
Just before I switched, the ph would fluctuate from 5.5 to 6.5 over the course of 2 or 3 days
I was using veg a and b.
Now that I switched zero fluctuation.
The ph completely stopped when I switched from veg to flower.
Just before I switched, the ph would fluctuate from 5.5 to 6.5 over the course of 2 or 3 days
I was using veg a and b.
Now that I switched zero fluctuation.
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
i've had some instances where pH stablizes like that. but generally, like you said, it tends to go up and down as the norm. it's above my pay grade but from what i understand it has to do with anions and cations being used by the plants at differing times.