If I were you I’d do a solid flush and really back off of the N. People sleep on the organic nutes. Synthetic nutes I feel are completely over hyped. If you want quality weed, make sure you get plants with solid and pure genetics. Not some cones or seeds you got from the neighbor. and run organic nutes and I guarantee you’ll be able to grow the same quality weed if not better than using synthetic nutes trying to beef them up. And you won’t really risk complications like this. At least not as bad.
Can anyone tell me what is causing this leaf curl
- Thread starter Tmurrayftw
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Tmurrayftw
Active Member
Okay so pretty much everyone has said it too much N but my question is why do all the feeding schedules for various nutes have you using N throughout the flowering stage like im gonna have to toss 10 gal of water if thats the case...
This is where I’m at produced from all organic nutes. Organic nutes aren’t as strong as far as ppm so you can feed more often and have a consistent nutrient uptake without having to always test your runoff or worry about over fertilizing. To say the least.. Organic nutes > synthetic All day
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you still can use N through flower and the plants still use N through flower. Just not as much as the veg stage. Normally flower nutes should be anywhere between 0 and no more than 2 on the N side. I’m pretty sure you’re supposed to taper off of N throughout the flower stage. What I do personally is the second I see the Signs of flower I switch to an early bloom nute which is I think 3 N for the first week n a half 2 weeks. Then I drop down to 2 for a week then 1 for a week or 2, then 0 for the last 4-5 weeks and as you’re dropping N you should be increasing P and K. Since as the plant matures it uses less N and more P and K.
mom not sure what that is lmao
Tmurrayftw
Active Member
Alrighty looks like I'm mixing up some new water then lol
good call. Good luck man hopefully it’s not to late and she has time to correct with little sideeffect
Tmurrayftw
Active Member
If not its not a total loss I've got 9 plants and I've learned alot just From all the people posting on this thread I appreciate everyone
Tmurrayftw
Active Member
I also have this sol mate auto if anyone every has a chance to grow some of humboldts new strains its beautiful
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Hollatchaboy
Well-Known Member
Doesn't light intensity cause the same symptoms without the heat?The leaves are telling you otherwise
Look at the picture you posted. ONLY the top leaves are thin and tacoing. The ones just below it are wide and perfectly fine... likely because they are further from the heat source. And im sure you'll notice that same trend if you look at the plant itself... the leaves at the bottom are fine, leaves up top are much thinner, and the ones at the very top are the ones tacoing.
Yes.. the "laser" thermometers are optimal for getting surface temperatures. But even if you don't have one, just move your lights up some and see what happens. If your at 18in now, id go up another 6in, give it a week and see what happens. If the leaves aren't brown/crispy they'll flatten out. If they're cruspy, they'll likely stay tacoed regardless.
Do me a favor though. Go to the app store and download the "Lux Light Meter" app, then tell me what your lux readings are at canopy height. The smart phone lux meters aren't super accurate, but should help give us an idea of where your at. I had someone test it against an actual lux meter and it was only a few thousand off, so while it isn't perfect, its a convenient way of seeing light intensity at different heights/areas
Hollatchaboy
Well-Known Member
You still need nitrogen but at a much lower ratio.
Tmurrayftw
Active Member
Like how much N because my base A has 4 and my base B has 1 should I just cut out the base A because it doesn't have any N
if I were you I’d do 2 or 1. 4 is way too high for flower.
Tmurrayftw
Active Member
Okay thats what I was thinking ima cut the base A all together I have pk booster anyways thanks for the advice
Hollatchaboy
Well-Known Member
Well.. that sounds about right
I don't know what nutes you use, but If you cut a, then you might want to add a lil more b. Your base a might contain more than just N. If it contains P and K , then you will be cutting back on those as well i believe.
BluntMoniker
Well-Known Member
Thats why I had asked about the LUX app.. i assumed it was heat over intensity being a blurple light... but yea id expect similar symptoms with the addition of bleaching possible as well.
But he said his lux is at 20k at canopy level.. which is pretty low even with a 5-10k variable because its not a genuine light meter reading. So who knows.
If your feeding schedule recommends A throughout, I wouldn't completely remove it.
The NPK numbers are the relative weight of each element in the solution. The difference between your A and B solution is 3% nitrogen, its not some crazy huge difference... especially once they become diluted in water.
Raspberrykiwi
Well-Known Member
Your problem is your base A. If you’re still using Base A, stop now. That’s a veg nutrient. A flower nutrient should be 2-8-4 N,P,K
Star Dog
Well-Known Member
I think he's suggesting lowering the ec, he's not suggesting lowering one or the other, a+b must be mixed to the instructions!
Tmurrayftw
Active Member
That doesnt make sense because I need to lower my N to 2 at the most during flower and the base A has 4 N therefore it has to be cut and just use base B and other pk boosters
Tmurrayftw
Active Member
correct me if I'm wrong please but does anyone think that alot of those grow schedules are nute companies just wanting you to use it up and buy more ya know lol