Ph fluctuation

Patriots781

Active Member
Hey guys I noticed my ph in 24 hours went from like 6.4 to 7.2 and I really dont get how that could of happend is this normal? I'm using white vinegar to lower the ph and general hydro nutes maybe my meters fucked does anyone have a set vinegar recipe for 5 gallon bucket? Just so I can make sure its right I usually put 3 caps in I mean it got cholly last night bit not to bad idk
 

Therrion

Well-Known Member
Hey guys I noticed my ph in 24 hours went from like 6.4 to 7.2 and I really dont get how that could of happend is this normal? I'm using white vinegar to lower the ph and general hydro nutes maybe my meters fucked does anyone have a set vinegar recipe for 5 gallon bucket? Just so I can make sure its right I usually put 3 caps in I mean it got cholly last night bit not to bad idk
Are you using RO water?
 

Larry3215

Well-Known Member
Vinegar is not great at controlling PH. It doesnt last long and breaks down. Its also an organic product, and can feed/speed up bacterial growth.

Use diluted Phosphoric acid (most commercial PH Down) or sulfuric acid (regular battery acid). Sulfuric is by far the cheapest option. By the way, sulfuric is what most large commercial growers use around the world, so its perfectly safe.

PH swings can be cause by:

1) temperature swings in the water. Colder water holds more C02, which when disolved in water becomes carbonic acid = lower PH. Warm water holds less c02 = less carbonic acid = higher PH. In my tests, with my water, 10 deg F change can cause 0.1 to 0.3 swing. Your results may be higher or lower depending on your water and nutes buffering capacity.

2) Bacteria/algae/slime etc all drive PH up as they feed. More bad crap = faster PH rise.

3) Roots feeding unequally - can drive it either way. the unequal feeding leaves some nutes low and other hi and it gets worse over time as you re-circulate the water and the imbalance grows. the imbalance can be caused by wrong EC levels, or out of range PH, or sick roots. PH is usually the culprit.

Check your roots, rez, etc for smell, slime, cloudy water, discoloration, etc.

By the way, roots do not turn brown from nutes. They turn brown when sick or when dying.
 

mr4tune

Well-Known Member
Your saying your roots are brown which implies that your having the beginning of root rot issues so that filter is in fact doing the opposite of what you need. What little chlorine you have in your tap water right now has been combatting the root issues, although at municipal levels it will do it poorly.

Like the other guy said, get real pH up and down.

You've also neglected to mention what kind of hydro system your using so there could be other factors contributing to your root issues but heat and light leaks are the first ones. pH swings that drastic usually signify root rot issues as well so I doubt that it all has to do with your choice of pH control.

Regardless, you decide whether your going to run a sterile system or one that utilizes benes. If you go sterile than the common fix is UC Roots (or chlorine alternative) or some people use h2o2 to clean shit up then go with the UC. You can make your own using Sodium Hypohlorite or HTH Pool as most others do. If you go with bene's then find a suitable option and feed them accordingly. I can't offer advise on this as I run sterile.
 

Patriots781

Active Member
I'm running bubbleponics with a bigger air pump,I was using orca but that's the only thing I added this grow,so if I run just regular tap will that be enough chlorine?how do you run sterile do you add couple drops of bleach or how much hydrogen peroxide do you use for 5 gallon bucket?
 

mr4tune

Well-Known Member
Ahh okay. So i had to look at wtf Orca is... its a Beneficial Bacteria AKA Bene... I don't like to run benes but thats my personal choice. I run sterile so I only use liquid salt based ferts that have no organic base. I run the Remo line but I had to remove their Astro Flower which is their PK booster because it has a Humic Acid base. It's got allot of sediment and it sticks like a whores catchers mitt. I also had to cut their carb additive called Natures Candy which in all reality is Molasses and water. That shit is what would usually assist in feeding the benes.

With running benes you have what is called a "live" reservoir. Your basically relying on encouraging good microscopic bacteria to grow and feed off of the bad bacteria. With Benes you need to make sure that your whole nutrient line has nothing that is going to kill that beneficial bacteria. Chlorine, h2o2, UC Roots, etc. will kill that shit right fuckin quick as that's what it's designed to do. So your basically pissing in the wind and throwing money away if you use that with Orca. That's why you need to know what's in every bottle your putting in.

Your other option is running a "sterile" reservoir which is explained in the first paragraph of this short novel. You add in nothing organic, and use a product to kill any and all bacteria.

I tried running a live reservoirs and I had nothing but issues. Roots started to rot, the whole basement stunk like a compost barrel, my air stones were constantly plugging, brown shmag on all my buckets, plants looked like dog shit. That being said, there's tons of guys on here that run live reservoirs with great success so its what works for you. With my sterile reservoirs my nutrient solution has a reddish tinge to it but its clear. I get no buildup or gunk in any of my systems components. I also have a UV filter that kills any bacteria in my house's water before it goes into my RO system. As an additional line of defense I run 7mL/gallon of a DIY UC roots which long story short is simply chlorine. That kills off any additional possible contamination.

For you its what you want to do, but I don't have allot of advice if you choose to remain running a live res/bucket. The only thing I could add would be to make sure your air pump isn't getting too hot or your light(s) aren't heating up your bucket(s). Its a good idea to insulate your buckets as well. I have x3 12 outlet air pumps but I have a fan blowing on them. Hot air dissipates rather quickly in air lines but if you have a short air line and your pumps getting hot you could be heating you bucket(s). CHeck your water temps in your bucket(s) and report back. 65F - 70F is ideal, but running sterile with Chlorine theres guys I know getting up to 80 - 83F and having great results.

Part of learning is fucking up. Not learning from those mistakes makes you a fuck up lol.
 
Top