Help with pump for a auto dtw

[keepittrucckn420]

Hello. So I just got in a 1 h/p shallow well pump by lanchez. So I’m just confused on the set up and can’t find a solid diagram or if someone knows a thread I could see to help me. I currently have 2-4x8’s with 4 Octa Bubblers style heads on with t’s on the ends. I’ve tried several diffrent pumps but have never been able to get a steady flow out of everyone unless I shut off flow to a tray. I’ll put a shitty sketch diagram of what I have in right now. Since my pumps going to be much stronger do I need a return line back to the res? Also do I need to make a loop in the tray where my manifolds hook up? Thanks for any help

 

[NukaKola]

The key to even flow is to have your runs equal length. Adjustable flow manifolds help dial in each plant as well since some of the 1/4 micro tubing will obviously be longer for the plants further away from the manifold and different plants may have different water requirements.

That pump is about double the size needed. You can add a T with a 90 and ball valve above the water line. Crack the ball valve as open or closed as needed for proper flow, it will also aerate/mix your res as a bonus.

 

[.Smoke]

3 ways to equalize pressure.

1. Equal length runs. (Almost impossible to get "exactly" correct but can get close)
2. Pressure Reducing Valves (PRV's) on each tee to each table that reduces pressure equally. (Very expensive)
3. Have an oversized pump that provides 100% constant pressure to all bubbler heads. (That 1hp jet pump should be able to do it if it's a decent pump like an F&W.)

 

[keepittrucckn420]

The key to even flow is to have your runs equal length. Adjustable flow manifolds help dial in each plant as well since some of the 1/4 micro tubing will obviously be longer for the plants further away from the manifold and different plants may have different water requirements.

That pump is about double the size needed. You can add a T with a 90 and ball valve above the water line. Crack the ball valve as open or closed as needed for proper flow, it will also aerate/mix your res as a bonus.

View attachment 4674496

Ok cool I’m going to re plumb that section and add the ball valve at the top of the res. Would you happen to know if I’m going to have to prime the pump every time I do a water change in my res or is that what the foot valve is for?

 

[Renfro]

3 ways to equalize pressure.

1. Equal length runs. (Almost impossible to get "exactly" correct but can get close)
2. Pressure Reducing Valves (PRV's) on each tee to each table that reduces pressure equally. (Very expensive)
3. Have an oversized pump that provides 100% constant pressure to all bubbler heads. (That 1hp jet pump should be able to do it if it's a decent pump like an F&W.)

another thing that helps is to loop a main line of larger diameter and tee off of that line to the sites using equal lengths of tube and a tee for each site (reducing tee). The ring of larger diameter tube is connected to the pump on both ends of the loop.

 

[keepittrucckn420]

another thing that helps is to loop a main line of larger diameter and tee off of that line to the sites using equal lengths of tube and a tee for each site (reducing tee). The ring of larger diameter tube is connected to the pump on both ends of the loop.

Thanks bro. I think I see what your saying. I really drew it out. Is that close to it?

 

[Renfro]

Ok, I am assuming that you have those different rings because they are in different tents or rooms? If not what if the reasoning?

What is the actual layout you are dealing with, like can you sketch up the floor plan and put measurements, or even use graph paper? I am looking to see the pathways, bends, distances...

I do highly recommend a 1 inch main line, perhaps PVC. Maybe even larger if your pump will do 1-1/4" then break off with three 1 inch lines that feed each ring/area and then reducing tees to 3/4 for sites. You want as big as you can get at the sites IMO. Using a unibit you could likely upsize the holes provided they aren't too close to the bottom of your site.

Really pictures, I need pictures lol. Show me what your system looks like and your space. I'm thinking PVC until you feed a ring, then transition to flex with a barbed fitting off the PVC. So Like 1-1/4" off the pump, reduce to three 1" take offs for each ring and put a valve there on each take off, then run the 1" PVC to the space the ring will be and transition to 1" flex for the ring and take offs with 1" to 3/4" reducing tees to the sites.

You can also put a valve on each 1 inch take off to feed a ring, use that valve to proportion/balance the flow to get things evenly distributed to each ring regardless of a little difference in distance from the pump.

Just my thoughts from what I know about the intended setup so far. If nothing else you can see my logic and figure out what you wanna use from all that mumbo jumbo I just wrote lol I am so high RN.