ARGH , 25 days after breeders time how much longer !?

Skyhound

Skyhound

Well-Known Member
Theres 4 plants the fimmed ones i gonna call 1 and 2 and the non fimmed ( seem less mature more white pistils) gonna call 3 and 4 . Please help me out because this is my 3rd grow , my 2 first grows i cutted 2 early and didnt get high from weed . Also why is it so longer after breeders time what could i be possibly doing wrong or is this normal .


Plant 1

1.jpg


PLANT 2


2 (2).jpg

PLANT 3


3.jpg

PLANT 4

4.jpg
?
 
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OIL7IO

Well-Known Member
Bro get a loupe and check the trichs. It's pretty normal for the flowering time to be longer but the best way to know is by checking the maturity of the trichomes.
 
70's natureboy

70's natureboy

Well-Known Member
Some breeders are clueless about counting days but most are pretty accurate. They look pretty nice and look like they might be tasty. To my eye they seem like they need more light and less humidity. Feel free to correct me if my eye is lying to me.
 
BluntMoniker

BluntMoniker

Well-Known Member
Light intensity plays a big role in the maturation process... not enough light will cause flowering to take longer.

As for when to cut, there are visual cues to look for, but if you really want to be sure, I'd say clip a nug off, dry it and smoke it. This way, your testing the quality of the high itself, rather than the quality of aesthetic cues
 
Skyhound

Skyhound

Well-Known Member
BluntMoniker said:
Light intensity plays a big role in the maturation process... not enough light will cause flowering to take longer.

As for when to cut, there are visual cues to look for, but if you really want to be sure, I'd say clip a nug off, dry it and smoke it. This way, your testing the quality of the high itself, rather than the quality of aesthetic cues
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~Last grow was with a 250w hps in 60x60x160 tent i had the same 6 to 7 weeks delay . Now i have 170w leds that are better then 250 hps https://cre.science/en/shop/the-halo-fluxengine-x4/.

CAnt believe i invested so much and now cant have normal grow in a 60x60cm tent :(
 
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OIL7IO

Well-Known Member
budman111 said:
After the visual inspection sometimes, can't always go with that.
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First time I've ever seen someone say that checking trichome maturity isn't the best way to know when you're ready to chop... can you provide a source that says it's not the best method?

If the trichs are mostly clear and aren't cloudy.. the buds aren't ready, if they're all amber, you've lost potency. I didn't think that'd be something that you can't always go with... a trich is always a trich and I'd imagine they all have the same development pattern.
 
xtsho

xtsho

Well-Known Member
OIL7IO said:
First time I've ever seen someone say that checking trichome maturity isn't the best way to know when you're ready to chop... can you provide a source that says it's not the best method?

If the trichs are mostly clear and aren't cloudy.. the buds aren't ready, if they're all amber, you've lost potency. I didn't think that'd be something that you can't always go with... a trich is always a trich and I'd imagine they all have the same development pattern.
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I don't check the trichomes and I never harvest early. I used to but after so many years growing I can tell by just looking. Plants will start having amber trichomes well before they're actually fully ready. There's plenty of people chopping plants way too early because they saw some amber trichomes. It is not the gold standard and there are also strains where you may not even get any amber trichomes or if you do the plant will be shriveled and half dead by the time they start turning.

No white pistils, swollen calyx's with receding pistils, dense heavy buds, plant stops drinking. One more week and harvest. No scope needed.
 
Thundercat

Thundercat

Well-Known Member
Ignore all breeder recommended time frames because you are not growing in their garden! Plants don’t grow based on calendars, they grow based on environment and genetics. So even the exact same clone can grow totally different in someone else’s environment. I stopped counting time frames years ago and just harvest whenever the plants are ready.

One thing to notice is that the plant that looks the “most mature” also has obvious health issues from the shriveled leaves. So it may not really be any more mature but rather just unhealthy.

Most of your plants look to me like they need 2-3 weeks still. If you have a scope and can check the trichomes in 2 weeks go for it.

Plant number 3 appears to need 3-4 weeks still.

Even if these are all from the same seeds you can notice how plants vary and progress at their own pace. Not some predetermined rate. Again environment plays a HUGE factor.
 
cowboylogic

cowboylogic

Well-Known Member
xtsho said:
I don't check the trichomes and I never harvest early. I used to but after so many years growing I can tell by just looking. Plants will start having amber trichomes well before they're actually fully ready. There's plenty of people chopping plants way too early because they saw some amber trichomes. It is not the gold standard and there are also strains where you may not even get any amber trichomes or if you do the plant will be shriveled and half dead by the time they start turning.

No white pistils, swollen calyx's with receding pistils, dense heavy buds, plant stops drinking. One more week and harvest. No scope needed.
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I agree. With time and experience. A grower can develope an eye for when a plant is ready. They just get that look that says, I'm ready, take me now....
 
Thundercat

Thundercat

Well-Known Member
end_of_the_tunnel said:
Probably best to just cut now. Especially plant one. Lot of dead foliage. Or you may find hidden nastiness come trim time.
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I actually totally agree with cutting plant #1. It limits the chance of bud rot forming in the dead growth and it will give you something to smoke on and practice drying SLOWLY so you don’t fuck up the other plants.
 
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