phosphorous or magnesium deficiency
- Thread starter Hollatchaboy
- Start date
teddy bonkers
Well-Known Member
Yeah, that's what I thought, LMFAO, you had to go re read the whole thread to try and "catch" me on something, Got 1 word for you.
triggered
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teddy bonkers
Well-Known Member
make sure you're responding to the right person, derp.
now go ahead and post something else not useful to op and show us that you're just here to fight with anyone.
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OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
Actually didn’t have to reread the whole thread, just your first two posts. I’m sure the rest is spread with more nonsense if you want me to check. Kid stick with what you’re good at, bs and google
Kassiopeija
Well-Known Member
Ok, maybe I can offer some general insight before the name calling starts...
C3 plants (=incl. sp. cannabis sativa et indica var ruderalis) need 60-120mg/l Calcium & 20-40mg/l Magnesia (keep a 3:1) so you mix RO with CalMag around EC 0.2 - 0.3, but if you're in Coco, go EC 0.4.
It's just a rule of thumb, you, like always, need to ruead your plants, as do CalMag product vary (they may contain more than just Ca & Mg, so that makes for the higher EC)...
They can... but not with all food, it's also different for hydro/soil, plus the effect is not very strong... they can also "spit out" unwanted salts... or accumulate them.. or avoid them by other means... it's COMPLICATED, and that's why there is so much MYSTERY revolving around it.... and it's not a close cased at all...
considering just the roots, there are 3 independant mechanisms at large (and an unknown forth suspected....) which are responsible for nutrition intake... that work with different strengths.... as plant food is also different (4 large different groups, and even more exceptions....)
E.g. the ion-pumps sitting at the plasmalemma can selectively in/outtake the free ions K, S, Ca, Mg (etc) but only at the peak strength of 10000 mol per second whereas the general massflow from diffusion takes more than a million molecules in per second, then there's also ionchannels and carrier-molecules (and I'm only telling you the grossly simplified version here...)
They also can change the pH by their exsudates, or live in symbiosis with other lifeforms to increase their intake or control over the substrate... all very fascinating...
Kassiopeija
Well-Known Member
depends on your nutrient balance.... if it's fine, not so much... as the excretion of malate & citrate is just one pro-active tool they have to dissolve certain metals or minerals out of stone and thereby enrich the rainwater... then suck it in (people that cannot water properly in soil torpedo that process quite a bit...) then there's the excretion of Na or just any other stuff that is too much (in nature mostly Na) so stuff acculumales at the rhizosphere naturally, but rainwater washes it off...
Yes, in hydro very different... it's "forcefeed" mostly... a good & fitting Hydro bottled solution should be all that's needed, and basically just to eye to observe if EC should rise or drop... and to observe pH swings (needs an expensive instrument then... as these swings may be fine...)
@OP, just some basic stuff, generally, alot of things changes by setup, genetics... (not a bible)
Hope these help
Hollatchaboy
Well-Known Member
Great! It is all fascinating.... still for me with dwc very confusing... as I just got home from work and checked my yellow leaves are browning, stems are still purple, but still growing like crazy! the first chart says total elemental ppm for light growth stage is 1147?depends on your nutrient balance.... if it's fine, not so much... as the excretion of malate & citrate is just one pro-active tool they have to dissolve certain metals or minerals out of stone and thereby enrich the rainwater... then suck it in (people that cannot water properly in soil torpedo that process quite a bit...) then there's the excretion of Na or just any other stuff that is too much (in nature mostly Na) so stuff acculumales at the rhizosphere naturally, but rainwater washes it off...
Yes, in hydro very different... it's "forcefeed" mostly... a good & fitting Hydro bottled solution should be all that's needed, and basically just to eye to observe if EC should rise or drop... and to observe pH swings (needs an expensive instrument then... as these swings may be fine...)
@OP, just some basic stuff, generally, alot of things changes by setup, genetics... (not a bible)
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Hope these help
Kassiopeija
Well-Known Member
I think the jumps in EC are a bit crude... I do have multiple feeding charts and they all are different... some steadily increase in flower, too... few years back there was a NASA study where they fed Cannabis plants the exact same nutritient solution from start to finish... plants can adapt... but I wouldn't introduce these crude jumps in EC... instead climb steadily... otherwise the plant is going to get stunted (adaptation time)... view a plant more like a complex biochemical reaction that corresponds with its ambient conditions...
But seriously, the best is just to get some experience and then adjust by its looks... of course, read all the guides here.. ask people around... take alot of measurements & notes... and reflect over them... if everything runs smooth - don't fiddle aropund, just let it grow... always observe lower leaves & the new shoots...
BTW the VPD chart is for LED (-2°C leaf surface temp)... for HPS it's +6°C. You can use very minor pH adjustment to increase the nutritent uptake... if that's what you want... and also realize things can change "from alone", ie. you won't be able to find out "why"... in the beginning "keep it simple", reduce your values, stuff you work with... and don't add too much from each grow... so you observe, if an addition is even worth it, or not... because, with many additions, you not only have to find out IF you actually need them, but also "how much" of it to use... now if you buy all the stuff the guy at the store tells you, and things go south... how do you find out the responsible culprit? and alot of stuff isn't even needed, or only, at the right time....
Hollatchaboy
Well-Known Member
Ok so last night I brought ppm of base nutes up to 1010.... same time tonight this is what my meter read....
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Hollatchaboy
Well-Known Member
does this seem right and if yes... is it a good sign?
Hollatchaboy
Well-Known Member
Absolutely! Thanks
Hollatchaboy
Well-Known Member
Ok day 2.... Down from 1010 ppm.... do I let her keep going?
Hollatchaboy
Well-Known Member
Oops... here's the pic from my meter
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Hollatchaboy
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ph was at 6.2 this morn.... downed it to 5.8 and it hasn't moved
I have always gone by the motto "don't chase the pH," meaning that I set it once and then I don't even attempt to adjust it again, once it is out of the range I choose I change the reservoir. In practice I would set it to 5.5 and in my case it would always drift upwards but adding more nutrients would bring it back down. I know people set their's everyday, but I'm lazy and I like my method. I believe it can actually be useful because nutrients change availably based on pH so a drift rotates the plate for them.
Hollatchaboy
Well-Known Member
Ok... makes sense... plus less use of ph down. I'll give it a try. Do you think there's still enough nutrients for now?
My Name is Mike
Well-Known Member
How much water are your plants drinking? Once I know the ideal ppm, I like to stay consistent with that until I notice a change. Ex. If you're range is 1000ppm, currently at 600ish, plants drinking and ph is rising, then I would add a nute mix to my add back to bring it back to 1000 or slightly higher. You'll have to learn nute portions to know what that amount would be. That's what I do and it works well.