Dry Molasses in a synthetic reservoir?

VILEPLUME

Well-Known Member
I'm currently using Jacks 10-30-20 plus sea kelp in bloom. I'm wondering if I add dry molasses to my mix with the pump circulating, will it clog up? Any foreseeable problems? I'd like to start using it after reading about all the benefits of molasses.
 

Silentvirtue

Well-Known Member
I've had some success with liquid molasses in DWC. I just used to dose every time I change my res 1-1.5ml per gal not 2.5ml per gal. Weekly res changes seemed to control any build up. I also used to run large amounts of air.

A drop of peroxide never goes a miss and also prevents nasties build up on large root bowls. Along with additional oxygen created.
 

VILEPLUME

Well-Known Member
I've had some success with liquid molasses in DWC. I just used to dose every time I change my res 1-1.5ml per gal not 2.5ml per gal. Weekly res changes seemed to control any build up. I also used to run large amounts of air.

A drop of peroxide never goes a miss and also prevents nasties build up on large root bowls. Along with additional oxygen created.
Thanks for your reply.

Sorry I should of said I'm using a coco grow, the rezzie is for the water mixture.
 

Silentvirtue

Well-Known Member
Oh during veg keep it to about 1.5 ml per us gal. Flower 2.5ml per gallon.

However some people go up to 5ml per us gal in weeks 3-6 of flower. I have done 5ml per us gal but didn't see much advantage and only used up EC space!

You can use it as a subsitute or an addition to calmag too. Has to be unsulphured.

Go liquid just keep on top of your res changes. Of you see it starting to gunk up cut it out for the next week and lower the dosage next time.
 

Silentvirtue

Well-Known Member
I add fungus bacteria and enzymes to my coco. Never had issues. I think Pirhana voodoo juice sensizyme and tarantula are awesome products. Other brands are avaliable. I just like these.

Plant needs to up take forms of carbohydrates somehow. After all, all things like Bud Candy or any sweetner etc. are forms of molasses........
 
Last edited:

xtsho

Well-Known Member
I add fungus bacteria and enzymes to my coco. Never had issues. I think Pirhana voodoo juice sensizyme and tarantula are awesome products. Other brands are avaliable. I just like these.

Plant needs to up take forms of carbohydrates somehow. After all, all things like Bud Candy or any sweetner etc. are forms of molasses........
Plants produce carbohydrates on their own. You don't need to give them any. That's all just nonsense put out there by the nutrient companies to sell bottles of sugar water.

Carbohydrates are formed in green plants by photosynthesis, which is the chemical combination, or "fixation", of carbon dioxide and water by utilization of energy from the absorption of visible light. The overall result is the reduction of carbon dioxide to carbohydrate and the formation of oxygen:

 

VILEPLUME

Well-Known Member
Plants produce carbohydrates on their own. You don't need to give them any. That's all just nonsense put out there by the nutrient companies to sell bottles of sugar water.

Carbohydrates are formed in green plants by photosynthesis, which is the chemical combination, or "fixation", of carbon dioxide and water by utilization of energy from the absorption of visible light. The overall result is the reduction of carbon dioxide to carbohydrate and the formation of oxygen:

So long story short, carbo and molasses are a waste of money?
 

Silentvirtue

Well-Known Member
So long story short, carbo and molasses are a waste of money?
Believe what you want. I use molases and candy. Work great for me currently running 4x 5 gallon air pots with coco and perlite (70/30). To be honest if youve added that much sugar to your res it stops pumps from working due to things being sticky. You've added waaaaaaaaaaay to much and prob a fucktard. A plant does produce carbohydrates in photosynthesis you learn this at like 10 years old in school what's your point? It's the additional carbohydrates you add that help feed your plant. You should be using mircobiolgy in your grow also which benefits from this. Raw do a nice version it's very concentrated can't remember the mixing ratio.

Added to this molasses has loooooads of other micro and trace elements. One being Calmag as mentioned previously. If your using coco and high powered LEDs you going to have some form of calmag problem especially if you're a little in experienced with LEDs. Why add more salt based fertilisers?

Here's a list of some of the key elements in molasses. Iron, maganese, magnesium, calcium, copper, zinc, potassium, phosphorus, certain B vitamins, and sodium. All of which are good for plants in the correct ratios. Molasses has also been proven to prevent salts build up which cause pH fluctuations......

There is also a tendency to say oooooo marketers make you believe that it works. To some extent this is true. However not to the level people like to think. You have to remember firstly they are regulated all across the world by various different regulators with different regulations. The products have also been researched and developed by these companies and every company has a version of. Also the market place obviously buys them and truely believe it works as people try and test these things every fucking day....... The products are still around and people are still using them with great effect. It has to be more using than not otherwise it not as it's not beneficial for companies to carry on producing them. Economics 101. Good saying bad workmen blame their tools. Same applies. You nuke them with nitrogen it's not biobuzz, AN, or Raws fault isit.

This debate is as old as hydro. People fuck it up and think it's the products fault. Same style of war wages on between flushers and non flushers, hps and leds etc.

Use the Lucas style approach of less is definately more and you won't go far wrong.

Another theory never tried it but there is alot of info on here about it is introduction of milk for enzymes if you're looking for other werid plant knowledge.
 
Last edited:

Silentvirtue

Well-Known Member
Side note on bacterias. Alot of bad bacterias are anaerrobic and do not not like aerobic conditions. Aerobic bacteria actually kill bad anaerobic bacterias. Res temps and oxygen levels are important as temp has a direct effect on dissolved oxygen and additional oxygen levels are key to helping prevent bad bacterias from building up. This is another reason why people add hydrogen peroxide H2O2. The peroxide breakdown the H2O molecules to release the O further increasing dissolved oxygen levels. Normally mixed up around 3% concentrate to 20-30ml per gallon. You can go slightly higher for diesease combating.

Personally I use 3% at 10ml per gal. Less is more. I also only use this in DWC. Never needed to in coco. However people use H2O2 across all mediums. Again with the same type of arguments. If you use it be careful it has a pH of about 11.5/12 veeeeery easy to knock your pH way out.

This is were the argument beings...
 

VILEPLUME

Well-Known Member
Believe what you want. I use molases and candy. Work great for me currently running 4x 5 gallon air pots with coco and perlite (70/30). To be honest if youve added that much sugar to your res it stops pumps from working due to things being sticky. You've added waaaaaaaaaaay to much and prob a fucktard. A plant does produce carbohydrates in photosynthesis you learn this at like 10 years old in school what's your point? It's the additional carbohydrates you add that help feed your plant. You should be using mircobiolgy in your grow also which benefits from this. Raw do a nice version it's very concentrated can't remember the mixing ratio.

Added to this molasses has loooooads of other micro and trace elements. One being Calmag as mentioned previously. If your using coco and high powered LEDs you going to have some form of calmag problem especially if you're a little in experienced with LEDs. Why add more salt based fertilisers?

Here's a list of some of the key elements in molasses. Iron, maganese, magnesium, calcium, copper, zinc, potassium, phosphorus, certain B vitamins, and sodium. All of which are good for plants in the correct ratios. Molasses has also been proven to prevent salts build up which cause pH fluctuations......

There is also a tendency to say oooooo marketers make you believe that it works. To some extent this is true. However not to the level people like to think. You have to remember firstly they are regulated all across the world by various different regulators with different regulations. The products have also been researched and developed by these companies and every company has a version of. Also the market place obviously buys them and truely believe it works as people try and test these things every fucking day....... The products are still around and people are still using them with great effect. It has to be more using than not otherwise it not as it's not beneficial for companies to carry on producing them. Economics 101. Good saying bad workmen blame their tools. Same applies. You nuke them with nitrogen it's not biobuzz, AN, or Raws fault isit.

This debate is as old as hydro. People fuck it up and think it's the products fault. Same style of war wages on between flushers and non flushers, hps and leds etc.

Use the Lucas style approach of less is definately more and you won't go far wrong.

Another theory never tried it but there is alot of info on here about it is introduction of milk for enzymes if you're looking for other werid plant knowledge.
Sorry to shift the conversation but I've been using plastic containers with holes on the bottom and getting results like this. But I just looked up airpots and smart pots. Do they really increase yields?

20200627_225826.jpg
 

Silentvirtue

Well-Known Member
It's possible to get a better yield. Will you get a better yield......not always.

I love air pots due to drying time, ease of transplanting, less salt build up on the pot. Can be stored flat, easier to clean and air pruning. These are made from recycled plastic.

Smart pots i like but I find they don't air prune in the same way, take a little longer to dry out (perfect if your in warmer drier climates). Harder to transplant if you want to reuse the pots. These are normally biodegradable however.

People complain the air pots leak water every watering. I find just water slower when watering and they don't leak. Again fucktards and tools.
 

Silentvirtue

Well-Known Member
H2O2 works very fast and depleates quickly in soultion. I find that used in small amounts it doesn't seem to have adverse effects. I'm guessing at 30ml it prob would. I only really add it every 7-10 days. And around 5-10ml per gallon top the bacerita and fungus up the day after. Was something I tried when looking for a root cleaner before I discovered a different type of air stone. Decided to try and run it along side one day just out of interest and turned out well.

As for coco and soil I can't say I've done it. There's thread on here people have done said it worked. All personal experiences I guess.
 
Last edited:

VILEPLUME

Well-Known Member
It's possible to get a better yield. Will you get a better yield......not always.

I love air pots due to drying time, ease of transplanting, less salt build up on the pot. Can be stored flat, easier to clean and air pruning. These are made from recycled plastic.

Smart pots i like but I find they don't air prune in the same way, take a little longer to dry out (perfect if your in warmer drier climates). Harder to transplant if you want to reuse the pots. These are normally biodegradable however.

People complain the air pots leak water every watering. I find just water slower when watering and they don't leak. Again fucktards and tools.
I'll pick up a couple of each and see how it goes.

Any other tricks to increase yields that you know? I'm already doing training and super cropping. Lights are good, nutes seem good, gonna try adding some dry molasses. Room stuff like fans, climate control all good too.
 
Top