Broken qb132's

Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
IrkinBollikans said:
I avoided the second part of your question because its obviously a cc driver, as implied by the model number hlg-240h-c1750. It's not a hlg-240h-36. I may be incorrect about adjusting the voltage, but what else could be adjusted if the current is constant?Maybe I'm not understanding. Here's a pic
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It's a fuckin Constant VOLTAGE DTIVER and they're wired(or SHOULD BE) IN PARALLEL.

CC would be HLG-240H-C2100A/B. The key being the "C" in the model #. Was trying to help but you're just arrogant.
 
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IrkinBollikans

IrkinBollikans

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
It's a fuckin Constant VOLTAGE DTIVER and they're wired(or SHOULD BE) IN PARALLEL.

CC would be HLG-240H-C2100A/B. The key being the "C" in the model #. Was trying to help but you're just arrogant.
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Here's the pic again, just in case you missed the C in the model number the first time. Mouser disagrees with you in the second pic. I dont think I want help from you anymore
 

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Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
IrkinBollikans said:
Here's the pic again, just in case you missed the C in the model number the first time. Mouser disagrees with you in the second pic. I dont think I want help from you anymore
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The pic you posted first did not show the whole scheme of things and both pos and neg had a wire coming from them so it was easy to misjudge for parallel. I apologize.
Secondly, you're post stated an HLG-240H-36. I didn't even see the model # before that. I see why you added that it's "NOT" that driver but that's what I saw and confused me. I'll admit when I'm wrong.
 
IrkinBollikans

IrkinBollikans

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
The pic you posted first did not show the whole scheme of things and both pos and neg had a wire coming from them so it was easy to misjudge for parallel. I apologize.
Secondly, you're post stated an HLG-240H-36. I didn't even see the model # before that. I see why you added that it's "NOT" that driver but that's what I saw and confused me. I'll admit when I'm wrong.
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Since you seem to know a lot about leds, is it in fact safe to run the 3 working panels with the current wiring configuration? The dim diodes on the third board brighten up when I turn the current adjustment all the way up. I want to run these until I get my money back, but I dont want to risk a fire
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
IrkinBollikans said:
My post specifically stated it was not a 240-36 as I know that it is a constant voltage driver. No hard feelings from me though
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Edited post.
Hope all turns out well.I can't remember if those boards are 36v or 24v. I'm guessing 36. But the voltage range Max is high enough to fit all 4 in series right?
 
IrkinBollikans

IrkinBollikans

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
Edited post.
Hope all turns out well.I can't remember if those boards are 36v or 24v. I'm guessing 36. But the voltage range Max is high enough to fit all 4 in series right?
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These are 36v boards. I'm not sure about the voltage range max, but this is the driver that hlg recommended for this setup
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
IrkinBollikans said:
Since you seem to know a lot about leds, is it in fact safe to run the 3 working panels with the current wiring configuration? The dim diodes on the third board brighten up when I turn the current adjustment all the way up. I want to run these until I get my money back, but I dont want to risk a fire
Click to expand...
I mean, it's probably just some broken internal traces.
Was going to maybe suggest trying 2 series rows of 2 each, in parallel, and see if anything happens.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
It's V Max is actually 143 and at 1750mA they're probably a little higher than 36V, closer to 37. Even at a steady 36, that's 144.
It should work, but maybe try 2 series pairs of 2 in parallel because it's min is 71.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
No. Use a piece of wire to connect 2 boards. One side in first boards neg one in second boards pos. Second boards negative goes back to driver and first boards POS goes to driver. Then do it for the other 2 boards the same way. So splitting the drivers leads in 2 like the picture, but that's the only part that's right. Only the splitting part. Not how they plug in to the boards.
 
IrkinBollikans

IrkinBollikans

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
No. Use a piece of wire to connect 2 boards. One side in first boards neg one in second boards pos. Second boards negative goes back to driver and first boards POS goes to driver. Then do it for the other 2 boards the same way. So splitting the drivers leads in 2 like the picture, but that's the only part that's right. Only the splitting part. Not how they plug in to the boards.
Click to expand...
Only 1 board lit up. This sucks lol. Should I disconnect the non working board and just have 3 in series? What about leaving the half working board in the circuit? Sorry for my noobness
 
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