I need advice on setup

[Scovilla]

So I have never grown before but I have been doing a lot of research and I want to start, the growing tent I’m going to get is 60”x60”x78 What lighting would be required for that space and how many plants can I fit,, I’m goin to start with autos so I’m not sure if I should I get 1 600w led light or 1000w.. or maybe even 2 600w lights?? Any advice would help I am less than a beginner because I have not grown yet lol

 

[Grow So High]

1000w would cover that area nicely. If we’re talking about a “blurple” led light lol then I would go with 2 600w for the most coverage. What kind of Led you have in mind?

 

[Scovilla]

1000w would cover that area nicely. If we’re talking about a “blurple” led light lol then I would go with 2 600w for the most coverage. What kind of Led you have in mind?

Not sure I’m trying to get the best ideas someone told me about one called ipower it’s a 600watt hps mh.. i don’t think it said led let me check,, I saw it on amazon

 

[Scovilla]

1000w would cover that area nicely. If we’re talking about a “blurple” led light lol then I would go with 2 600w for the most coverage. What kind of Led you have in mind?

If u got any ideas let me know, I’m not worried about price but at the same time I don’t wanna spend a million bucks lol but I do want the best equipment so I can produce great buds

 

[spek9]

Not sure I’m trying to get the best ideas someone told me about one called ipower it’s a 600watt hps mh.. i don’t think it said led let me check,, I saw it on amazon

HPS (High-Pressure Sodium) and MH (Metal Halide) lamps are HID (High-Intensity Discharge) lights, and put off a great deal of heat, so you either need a nice, consistently cool grow area to put your tents in, or a good inline fan (and filter) to exhaust the heat, or both. HID lamps are all I use in all of my grow tents.

When you're buying LED lights, most vendors use marketing bullshit. They'll claim a lamp is 1000W or 600W, but only pull a true 100W or 60W from the wall, rendering them pretty much useless, so you have to do a lot of homework to ensure you're not wasting your money here.

 

[Scovilla]

HPS (High-Pressure Sodium) and MH (Metal Halide) lamps are HID (High-Intensity Discharge) lights, and put off a great deal of heat, so you either need a nice, consistently cool grow area to put your tents in, or a good inline fan (and filter) to exhaust the heat, or both. HID lamps are all I use in all of my grow tents.

When you're buying LED lights, most vendors use marketing bullshit. They'll claim a lamp is 1000W or 600W, but only pull a true 100W or 60W from the wall, rendering them pretty much useless, so you have to do a lot of homework to ensure you're not wasting your money here.

Ohh ok he also told me to get this iPower GLFANXEXPSET6D8CHUMD 6 Inch 350 CFM Inline Carbon Filter 8 Feet Ducting with Fan Speed Controller and Temperature Humidity Monitor and Grow Tent Ventilation, 6" Kits, Black

 

[Scovilla]

HPS (High-Pressure Sodium) and MH (Metal Halide) lamps are HID (High-Intensity Discharge) lights, and put off a great deal of heat, so you either need a nice, consistently cool grow area to put your tents in, or a good inline fan (and filter) to exhaust the heat, or both. HID lamps are all I use in all of my grow tents.

When you're buying LED lights, most vendors use marketing bullshit. They'll claim a lamp is 1000W or 600W, but only pull a true 100W or 60W from the wall, rendering them pretty much useless, so you have to do a lot of homework to ensure you're not wasting your money here.

Ill be growing in my basement which is cool and i will also get a fan to put inside will that help?

 

[Merlin1147]

When you’re sizing LEDs always go by the power draw from the wall, not the marketing size. if they give it in amps, then multiply the amps by the voltage from the wall to get watts. The general recommendation for high quality LEDs is 30 watts or so per square foot, more for low quality lights. For temperature and humidity monitoring I like wireless units that you can check from your phone. They log and graph the temp and humidity so you can really tell how well you’re controlling the environment And will save you from opening the tent every 10 minutes. I use SensorPush. Inkbird and others make them too. Why are you thinking to grow Autos? Personally, I think Autos are a genetic abomination. But aside from that, the thing about autos, is that once they germinate, the clock is ticking. If/when you make an early mistake, there may be no way to straighten it out before they go into flower.

 

[Scovilla]

When you’re sizing LEDs always go by the power draw from the wall, not the marketing size. if they give it in amps, then multiply the amps by the voltage from the wall to get watts. The general recommendation for high quality LEDs is 30 watts or so per square foot, more for low quality lights. For temperature and humidity monitoring I like wireless units that you can check from your phone. They log and graph the temp and humidity so you can really tell how well you’re controlling the environment And will save you from opening the tent every 10 minutes. I use SensorPush. Inkbird and others make them too. Why are you thinking to grow Autos? Personally, I think Autos are a genetic abomination. But aside from that, the thing about autos, is that once they germinate, the clock is ticking. If/when you make an early mistake, there may be no way to straighten it out before they go into flower.

Thanks for the info.. and honestly I was gonna go with autos because they seemed simple and produce buds quicker.. but like I said I am extremely new to this and I don’t fully understand everything.. I’ve read that auto or easy to care for and u don’t have to switch the light setting but I was definitely interested when I read that they produce a lot quicker.. but I know if u jus get feminine seeds and do it the right way u can produce way bigger buds and have more control over the growing process.. I’m probably not gonna start actually growing til atleast another month I wanna know what I’m doing so I did some research to get a bit of an understanding now I wanna talk to ppl who actually do it while still researching

 

[Scovilla]

As far as lights and exhaust fan I was gonna go with these?

 

[Scovilla]

When you’re sizing LEDs always go by the power draw from the wall, not the marketing size. if they give it in amps, then multiply the amps by the voltage from the wall to get watts. The general recommendation for high quality LEDs is 30 watts or so per square foot, more for low quality lights. For temperature and humidity monitoring I like wireless units that you can check from your phone. They log and graph the temp and humidity so you can really tell how well you’re controlling the environment And will save you from opening the tent every 10 minutes. I use SensorPush. Inkbird and others make them too. Why are you thinking to grow Autos? Personally, I think Autos are a genetic abomination. But aside from that, the thing about autos, is that once they germinate, the clock is ticking. If/when you make an early mistake, there may be no way to straighten it out before they go into flower.

Oh wait Are autos not as potent??

 

[Merlin1147]

Oh wait Are autos not as potent??

As for being faster. Maybe, maybe not. Breeders lie. I guess the newer autos are getting better with potency. But there’s always going to be a compromise to keep them autos by diluting the genetics with the ruderalis genes. The only advantage I see to autos is for a summer harvest outdoors or a perpetual grow using one tent. IMO photos are simpler and there are a lot of learning advantages especially for beginners. The only difference is making one timer change from 18/6 to 12/12. No biggie. But Being able to control the flip to bloom, you can be sure they are in the best possible shape and the right size for you before the flip. If you go into bloom with problems, it’s that much harder to fix and will directly effect yield and quality. And with photos you’ll always know what phase of growth you’re in and can plan when to change fertilizers to bloom nutes. (usually when the stretch is done). Just my 2 cents.

 

[Scovilla]

As for being faster. Maybe, maybe not. Breeders lie. I guess the newer autos are getting better with potency. But there’s always going to be a compromise to keep them autos by diluting the genetics with the ruderalis genes. The only advantage I see to autos is for a summer harvest outdoors or a perpetual grow using one tent. IMO photos are simpler and there are a lot of learning advantages especially for beginners. The only difference is making one timer change from 18/6 to 12/12. No biggie. But Being able to control the flip to bloom, you can be sure they are in the best possible shape and the right size for you before the flip. If you go into bloom with problems, it’s that much harder to fix and will directly effect yield and quality. And with photos you’ll always know what phase of growth you’re in and can plan when to change fertilizers to bloom nutes. (usually when the stretch is done). Just my 2 cents.

Thanks man I appreciate ur opinion a lot and I’ll keep u posted when I start.. and yea I was sold on the breeders saying how fast they grow and how much it yields.. maybe I’ll try one plant and see how it goes and if I don’t see like it I won’t mess with autos... so quick question when they say the plant can produce 400gr/plant am I really gonna get close to that number IF grown correctly,, cuz I’ve seen some autos say even 550-700/plant or m2

 

[TreeFarmerCharlie]

I’m going to bring this up, because nobody else has...if you are just getting into this, and you don’t want to spend a ton of money, then I would highly suggest you start out with a much smaller tent closer to 36” x 36”. A 60” x 60” tent has close to triple the square footage of a 36” x 36” which makes it far more expensive to properly light and control the temper and humidity in the tent. The size of your grow tent doesn’t mean a thing if you can’t properly light it up or keep the climate in it in check.

 

[TreeFarmerCharlie]

so quick question when they say the plant can produce 400gr/plant am I really gonna get close to that number IF grown correctly,, cuz I’ve seen some autos say even 550-700/plant or m2

those numbers reflect what the plant can produce when grown by someone who is good at what they do. Some people are lucky and can become that good after a year of growing while others never become that good. The only way you can ever expect to get a great yield is to provide proper lighting and climate control for the entire grow AND to know how to grow properly. As a first time grower you should set your sites on being able to make it to harvest with healthy plants. Many first time growers don’t even make it to that point with their first grow.

 

[Merlin1147]

Thanks man I appreciate ur opinion a lot and I’ll keep u posted when I start.. and yea I was sold on the breeders saying how fast they grow and how much it yields.. maybe I’ll try one plant and see how it goes and if I don’t see like it I won’t mess with autos... so quick question when they say the plant can produce 400gr/plant am I really gonna get close to that number IF grown correctly,, cuz I’ve seen some autos say even 550-700/plant or m2

I don’t know about 400 grams per plant for an auto. Wow! I don’t think so. The yield per m2 I always use as a relative thing and don’t believe it. Maybe for outdoor grows of photos. For us in tents the limiting factor is usually the quantity and quality of light . If you get a gram per watt you‘re doing ok. More is possible with experience.

 

[GBAUTO]

The most I've ever yielded from an auto was about 6 oz of dried flower-most of them are about a qp.

 

[Scovilla]

I’m going to bring this up, because nobody else has...if you are just getting into this, and you don’t want to spend a ton of money, then I would highly suggest you start out with a much smaller tent closer to 36” x 36”. A 60” x 60” tent has close to triple the square footage of a 36” x 36” which makes it far more expensive to properly light and control the temper and humidity in the tent. The size of your grow tent doesn’t mean a thing if you can’t properly light it up or keep the climate in it in check.

Oh Ok so growing is something u really have to be good at to produce... so if I spend more money and get the best suitable equipment even as a beginner it should better my odds? I know there are little things that go into play but I’m hoping with research and help I’ll be ok.. rn my budget is about 600 but if I have to wait and save up to like 1200 I would,, I want good stuff

 

[Budget Buds]

So I have never grown before but I have been doing a lot of research and I want to start, the growing tent I’m going to get is 60”x60”x78 What lighting would be required for that space and how many plants can I fit,, I’m goin to start with autos so I’m not sure if I should I get 1 600w led light or 1000w.. or maybe even 2 600w lights?? Any advice would help I am less than a beginner because I have not grown yet lol

Sounds to me like you better do a lot more studying before you invest in such a big system.

 

[Scovilla]

I don’t know about 400 grams per plant for an auto. Wow! I don’t think so. The yield per m2 I always use as a relative thing and don’t believe it. Maybe for outdoor grows of photos. For us in tents the limiting factor is usually the quantity and quality of light . If you get a gram per watt you‘re doing ok. More is possible with experience.

That’s what they’re advertising man smh which I did think was a reach but idk for sure