Using 3500k cob with custom 660nm light board

StonedGimp

Active Member
I have a Timber 3VL and after finishing my first grow I decide to build a 660nm board using 12 XP-G3 660nm LEDs on a dimmable driver. I’m getting ready to start my second grow which will be autoflowers and I need some input on when I should turn on the red spectrum and how bright should I run it. I’m assuming I should leave the reds off during veg or at least run it at the lowest setting and once stretch is over turn it on. Once in flower how bright should it be in comparison to the Timber’s par? Any help would be appreciated, Thanks
 

StonedGimp

Active Member
Good way of looking at it. But, most boards you see implementing them, use about 10-15% of total wattage towards 660nm red additions.
Thanks guys! Airwalker are you the guy I noticed a few weeks ago that said you use 3000k cobs with a 660 board and it’s been the best so far? Anyway, I wasn’t sure if there was a specific percentage I should use to get the best effect. I’ve read so many different things that 660 helps with such as higher trichome production, denser buds, more aroma and I’m not really sure what’s true and what’s not. I’ll start at 10% and go from there.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Thanks guys! Airwalker are you the guy I noticed a few weeks ago that said you use 3000k cobs with a 660 board and it’s been the best so far? Anyway, I wasn’t sure if there was a specific percentage I should use to get the best effect. I’ve read so many different things that 660 helps with such as higher trichome production, denser buds, more aroma and I’m not really sure what’s true and what’s not. I’ll start at 10% and go from there.
Not me.
 

The Dawg

Well-Known Member
270 Watts Of Citizen 1812 3000k 35 Watts of Both The 660 and 730. I Start The 660's 15 Minutes Before The Main Light Comes On And I Leave It On For 4 Hours. The 730's I Start 15 Minutes Before Main Light Shut Off And 15 Minutes After The Main Light Shut's Off. This Light Recipe Was Used In the Flowering Of Orchids And It Shorten The Flowering Cycle By 2 Weeks :hump:
 

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Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
You generallly wont need 35watts of 730nm for a full 15 mins after lights out for cannabis, a couple of minutes is enough. If you see extra stretch just dial down from 15mins.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
You generallly wont need 35watts of 730nm for a full 15 mins after lights out for cannabis, a couple of minutes is enough. If you see extra stretch just dial down from 15mins.
True, but most people just have the basic analog timer with 15 minute interval tabs. Just have it come on 5-10mins BEFORE Yer main light sources turn off. That way, its just a few mins of only 730mm to lul your girls off to sleep. But, 15 minutes of it, isn't going to be an issue really either way.
 

The Dawg

Well-Known Member
You generallly wont need 35watts of 730nm for a full 15 mins after lights out for cannabis, a couple of minutes is enough. If you see extra stretch just dial down from 15mins.
I Don't Buy That Argument That 730's Cause Stretch. Why You Ask Cause The 1st Gen Area51 Multi Colored Panels Came With 9 Watts Of Far Red And Was On The Entire Growing Cycle And Nobody Complained About Stretch. However They Did Think That They Received A Defective Panel Cause It Had 9 Bad Leds Until It Was Pointed Out That The Leds In Question Were 730's.In My Experience A Plant will Stretch Because The Light Is Weak And The Plant Will Stretch Up To Get More Light :peace:
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
I Don't Buy That Argument That 730's Cause Stretch. Why You Ask Cause The 1st Gen Area51 Multi Colored Panels Came With 9 Watts Of Far Red And Was On The Entire Growing Cycle And Nobody Complained About Stretch. However They Did Think That They Received A Defective Panel Cause It Had 9 Bad Leds Until It Was Pointed Out That The Leds In Question Were 730's.In My Experience A Plant will Stretch Because The Light Is Weak And The Plant Will Stretch Up To Get More Light :peace:
Id agree with you on extra far red not causing stretch if its balanced with the rest of the spectrum. Ive never done far red EOD myself but some peeps have commented on extra stretch. The thing here is having far red on and nothing else on.

Randomblame quoted 3000-4000 umols per m2 for EOD treatment: a good far red is about 3ppf/w, that would be roughly 100ppf per second for OPs 35w. With so much wattage you could get it done in 3000/100=30 seconds. The 14.5 mins extra wont really do anything to the plant except for possible stretch.

Obviously there are many things that lead to stretch or its inhibition, ive seen a few peeps with uv and far red on thru the whole day with no real stretch.

If you have to do EOD with 15 mins intervals (analogue timer) i would rec Aw16 way, get it on a little before the mainlight turns off. But doing this it would be ideal with something like the sonoff system where you can get all your timers synced together, too much guess work if not.
 

PhatNuggz

Well-Known Member
I have a Timber 3VL and after finishing my first grow I decide to build a 660nm board using 12 XP-G3 660nm LEDs on a dimmable driver. I’m getting ready to start my second grow which will be autoflowers and I need some input on when I should turn on the red spectrum and how bright should I run it. I’m assuming I should leave the reds off during veg or at least run it at the lowest setting and once stretch is over turn it on. Once in flower how bright should it be in comparison to the Timber’s par? Any help would be appreciated, Thanks
the reds help with root development, though likeley 3000 max. Depending on how many plants you start maybe 2-4- 6... reds. I would save the 660s for bloom
 

The Dawg

Well-Known Member
Id agree with you on extra far red not causing stretch if its balanced with the rest of the spectrum. Ive never done far red EOD myself but some peeps have commented on extra stretch. The thing here is having far red on and nothing else on.

Randomblame quoted 3000-4000 umols per m2 for EOD treatment: a good far red is about 3ppf/w, that would be roughly 100ppf per second for OPs 35w. With so much wattage you could get it done in 3000/100=30 seconds. The 14.5 mins extra wont really do anything to the plant except for possible stretch.

Obviously there are many things that lead to stretch or its inhibition, ive seen a few peeps with uv and far red on thru the whole day with no real stretch.

If you have to do EOD with 15 mins intervals (analogue timer) i would rec Aw16 way, get it on a little before the mainlight turns off. But doing this it would be ideal with something like the sonoff system where you can get all your timers synced together, too much guess work if not.
Heres My 1st Lamp With The 730's Added And I Will Say It Was Nothing To Write Home About. I Followed The Rule Of Thumb For The Day And Wasnt Impressed. It Wasnt Until I Built My Current Lamp And I Started Running It In Veg And Flower Did I Notice A Difference.

 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Id agree with you on extra far red not causing stretch if its balanced with the rest of the spectrum. Ive never done far red EOD myself but some peeps have commented on extra stretch. The thing here is having far red on and nothing else on.

Randomblame quoted 3000-4000 umols per m2 for EOD treatment: a good far red is about 3ppf/w, that would be roughly 100ppf per second for OPs 35w. With so much wattage you could get it done in 3000/100=30 seconds. The 14.5 mins extra wont really do anything to the plant except for possible stretch.

Obviously there are many things that lead to stretch or its inhibition, ive seen a few peeps with uv and far red on thru the whole day with no real stretch.

If you have to do EOD with 15 mins intervals (analogue timer) i would rec Aw16 way, get it on a little before the mainlight turns off. But doing this it would be ideal with something like the sonoff system where you can get all your timers synced together, too much guess work if not.
Surprisingly, analog timers can be pretty accurate if you just do it right. When your close to your lights turning off, click it over til your far red comes on. Wait for 5-8 minutes, Then manually click over your main lights rotary til it turns off. Done. It will be on point the whole run. Advised to do the same for each 4x4 light on a timer so you can give your breaker a minute or two inbetween each driver kicking on to not overload it with inrush current.
 

StonedGimp

Active Member
I haven’t added the 730 yet but plan to after I run some autos, I plan to either build another rail or use rapidled pucks. So when I set everything up I need to use a par meter and get my cobs where I want them then figure up 10-15% of the cob par total and then set the 660 lights to that? I wasn’t totally sure how many lights to buy for my 2x4 tent so I contacted rapid and they said 12 would be best and 6 730 when I decide to add that. I’ve also been in touch with Timber and plan to send in my 3VL and have it upgraded to the 4vl. I should probably just build something custom or switch to panels but I like the cobs. What I was hoping to achieve by adding the 660 is to change the spectral distribution of the Timber to more of what the fluence ray indoor, and every other newer led, looks like. I guess if I follow the chart though I should set the 660 par as high as the Timber since the fluence 660 spectrum hits 100 just like the 600 wavelength.
TimberDCBD31BD-E0EE-4F3A-85FC-D7584E964F5E.jpeg

Fluence79BD14CF-333D-4529-A0CA-3092BE62359E.jpeg
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Heres My 1st Lamp With The 730's Added And I Will Say It Was Nothing To Write Home About. I Followed The Rule Of Thumb For The Day And Wasnt Impressed. It Wasnt Until I Built My Current Lamp And I Started Running It In Veg And Flower Did I Notice A Difference.

Heres My 1st Lamp With The 730's Added And I Will Say It Was Nothing To Write Home About. I Followed The Rule Of Thumb For The Day And Wasnt Impressed. It Wasnt Until I Built My Current Lamp And I Started Running It In Veg And Flower Did I Notice A Difference.

I remember this grow from wayback when... Liked the new comcept, but its well hard to flower with 5000k led. I can imagine that it works nice as a veg light, especially if you have far red on a dimmer to dial in node distance.

It was a while ago but i remember when everybody here had their own special take on spectrum instead of everybody running standard 3000k/80cri.
 

The Dawg

Well-Known Member
I remember this grow from wayback when... Liked the new comcept, but its well hard to flower with 5000k led. I can imagine that it works nice as a veg light, especially if you have far red on a dimmer to dial in node distance.

It was a while ago but i remember when everybody here had their own special take on spectrum instead of everybody running standard 3000k/80cri.
I Can Tell That You Don't Really Follow Me Cause If You Did You Would KNOW I Not An RIU Sheeple. I Have Marched To My Own Tune From The Very Start(1974). Let Me REFRESH You HPS Stand's For Hot Piece Of Shit And My Favorite Spectrum To Grow With Is The 4000k. Now The 5000k Is Not Hard To Flower With It Just Takes Up to 2 Weeks Longer To Flower With And The Frost is Off The Chart What Didnt Impress Me Was The 730's. However I Didn't Give Up And I Continued To Test Until I Found A Formula That Worked. :peace:
 
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