I just picked up some of this to try out, fingers crossed
My first dealing with the infamous white powdery mildew
- Thread starter The Brown Cow
- Start date
Renfro
Well-Known Member
To anyone that's dealing with PM. Look into a biological fungicide called Actinovate. 1 teaspoon per gallon for preventative and 2 for an existing condition. I always pH any foliar application to 11.0 as well to prevent an acidic environment conducive to PM.
I would never advocate using a sulfur vaporizer in a room that has flowering plants but it is a great way to finish the cleaning of a room where PM has flourished, prior to another run. It gets into all the nooks and crannies.
I would never advocate using a sulfur vaporizer in a room that has flowering plants but it is a great way to finish the cleaning of a room where PM has flourished, prior to another run. It gets into all the nooks and crannies.
etruthfx
Well-Known Member
Curious to know how it works if you could keep us updated that would be coolI just picked up some of this to try out, fingers crossed
I believe these are the tap roots or beginning of PM, not sure..
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Renfro
Well-Known Member
Well the part of that image that isn't under glare looks normal, just trichomes.I believe these are the tap roots or beginning of PM, not sure..
Renfro
Well-Known Member
Soybean oil, Peppermint oil and Isopropyl alcohol. I would imagine the alcohol is whats acting on the PM and the oils against mites. A dip application will be more effective at hitting all parts of the plant.I just picked up some of this to try out, fingers crossed
I haven't used the plant therapy yet, that photo is a leaf that I removed from one of my clones. Ya it looks like a mature leaf with tryclomes and not PM. I just saw the rough texture and assumed it was PM, thank goodness it isn't. I removed it from a strain of Mac Gas
Skoal
Well-Known Member
I spray down all the time with hydrogen peroxide mixed with water. I add baking soda as well to get that PH up. It does control it. Also you can do a hydrogen-peroxide bath at harvest.
most ways to control it are through temperature control and foliar spray. I generally use my home made spray daily. Just my bottom branches are hard to get too as it is very crowded down there. The tops generally fine as the spray can get to those leaves easier.
most ways to control it are through temperature control and foliar spray. I generally use my home made spray daily. Just my bottom branches are hard to get too as it is very crowded down there. The tops generally fine as the spray can get to those leaves easier.
Glad its working for you, I used it and other elixirs/remedies and 6wks into flower the h202 along with using green Cure nuked the pistols so I had to toss the entire grow.
Cheers
Skoal
Well-Known Member
man that’s shit. I should watch out for it. Worse comes to worse can always do the bath.Glad its working for you, I used it and other elixirs/remedies and 6wks into flower the h202 along with using green Cure nuked the pistols so I had to toss the entire grow.
Cheers
Did that on 4 plants and it does break down the PM but it removes majority of the terps and tryclomes. Good luck!
Skoal
Well-Known Member
I figured it would have some net stiff effect which totally sucks for sure. My top colas are fine from the spray of hydrogen peroxide. It’s the bottom buds under the canopy that are looking rough.
pinner420
Well-Known Member
I live in zone 4. I utilize compost tea at a foliar level bauntea deluted 10 to 1. A nice systemic approach. I also feed bullet proof si at 2.5 ml to the gallon. My greenhouse has dropped to 28 loaded with 1000s of tomatoes with no damage and i attribute my good fortune to the silicone dioxide... much success.
P.s. Also apply your tea around your yard to keep a nice barrier..
P.s. Also apply your tea around your yard to keep a nice barrier..