reza92
Well-Known Member
when will you have single heatsinks in stock again?
Aussie High Lights – we're official
- Thread starter Grow Lights Australia
- Start date
radiant Rudy
Well-Known Member
Hey folks I have a diy that i have upgraded once a couple years back. Ive been puzzling over why my "upgrade" seemed to diminsh rather than im,prove the quality of the plants after the "upgrade". I'm at the point where I'm considering starting over with something like these aussie high lights.
I'm growing in a 2x4x7 space. My updated rig consists of 4 cxb 3500 @ 50 w each,2 set on assive sinks on each end of a refurbished VERO optic. The optic case holds 2x 4k and 1x 3k @~80w each and 1x 1750k ~50w. Overall it draws 500+w at wall so it's super bright in my decently reflective ~2x4 space. I reckoned that maybe it's just too bright for the area and possibly thats my issue. But then I watched this vid by Ph.D Apogee guy and, i think, he points out that 2000ppfd is workable flux for cannabis if proper nutrition is supplied. So my hypothesis seems doubtful.
I'm a soil grower with a decent amount of experience and quite a few high quality grows under my belt. Im ready to move on to strips if it makes sense. Because of the collegiality here and the rigorous testing you guys get into I was hoping for some suggestions, musings etc.
so right now i'm wondering: Should I try and re-purpose my drivers in a strip build? Should I maybe just swap out that 1750 and place a 4k in it's spot? Should i sell off all the parts and get an aussie rig that matches up to my needs ? I've got some time to figure it out because of home renovations currently under way.
Thanks for any thoughts and for the informative and encouraging thread.
Towards an optimal spectral quality for plant growth and development. In this presentation Dr.Bugbee details a study, using medical cannabis plants, showing that manipulating the spectral quality of light input had neglible effect on yield , thc or terpenes. This info seems at odds with observations around riu and ads to my confusion
I'm growing in a 2x4x7 space. My updated rig consists of 4 cxb 3500 @ 50 w each,2 set on assive sinks on each end of a refurbished VERO optic. The optic case holds 2x 4k and 1x 3k @~80w each and 1x 1750k ~50w. Overall it draws 500+w at wall so it's super bright in my decently reflective ~2x4 space. I reckoned that maybe it's just too bright for the area and possibly thats my issue. But then I watched this vid by Ph.D Apogee guy and, i think, he points out that 2000ppfd is workable flux for cannabis if proper nutrition is supplied. So my hypothesis seems doubtful.
I'm a soil grower with a decent amount of experience and quite a few high quality grows under my belt. Im ready to move on to strips if it makes sense. Because of the collegiality here and the rigorous testing you guys get into I was hoping for some suggestions, musings etc.
so right now i'm wondering: Should I try and re-purpose my drivers in a strip build? Should I maybe just swap out that 1750 and place a 4k in it's spot? Should i sell off all the parts and get an aussie rig that matches up to my needs ? I've got some time to figure it out because of home renovations currently under way.
Thanks for any thoughts and for the informative and encouraging thread.
Towards an optimal spectral quality for plant growth and development. In this presentation Dr.Bugbee details a study, using medical cannabis plants, showing that manipulating the spectral quality of light input had neglible effect on yield , thc or terpenes. This info seems at odds with observations around riu and ads to my confusion
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Hybriday is the only true authority when it comes to led lighting. You should be asking him about it all in his bar8 thread. Everyone else here are shills
Silencio
Well-Known Member
I can't imagine running 500w of cobs in a 2x4. Do your plants look light stressed? Temps? That must generate a ton of heat.
Grow Lights Australia
Well-Known Member
We're hoping to have them in a couple of weeks. There was obviously a hold-up with Chinese New Year and the coronavirus shut-down, but everyone's back at work now, so it shouldn't be too long. They've already been ordered and paid for, so the heatsink manufacturer is just working through a backlog of orders.
We're also running low on UV boards – there are not many left – and again, we're waiting on a shipment of PCBs so that we can manufacture a new run. We have all the other parts (LEDs, connectors) here and are just waiting on the boards. I thought I'd mention that because we have sold quite a few boards recently, which has put a dent in our stock.
Grow Lights Australia
Well-Known Member
Ha! Ha! You're a funny guy! But go easy on him, he's OK.
Grow Lights Australia
Well-Known Member
2000 PPFD is way too high for an average 12-hour flowering period. What Bugbee says in that video, if you watch the whole presentation, is that cannabis plants can handle up to 2000 PPFD – which is about what the sun produces at midday in summer at most latitudes – but that it is only for a short time. What's more important is DLI, which is the total amount of light over the 12-hour period. If memory serves me correct, 40-45 DLI is what you should aim for, which is an average of 1000 PPFD over any 12-hour period, up to 60 DLI (1400-1500 PPFD) if you are using CO2.
We've commented before on some of Bugbee's videos and while they are great for beginners, we believe some of the information he presents is incomplete. For example, green light is much more important for plants than simply aiding human vision, as Bugbee states. It is not only the most efficient spectrum in terms of photosynthesis – as it penetrates the leaf surface to activate chloroplasts below the surface – it is important for diffusing light throughout the canopy (which is why leaves are green, because they reflect light to other parts of the plant that are not in direct sunlight). I've also read that green light regulates some hormonal responses in plants that support the immune system and improve health.
Regarding the THC content not being affected by blue light, there are two points. First, the plants shown at 14:50 onwards are CBD rich – there was hardly any THC in them to begin with – so they are already at a genetic disadvantage. If you are trying to grow THC, after all, wouldn't you use a high THC strain to compare? Secondly, Bugbee doesn't state which "Blue" was the control; ie, was it straight 450nm or was it 400-500nm? All the experiment proves is that possibly 450nm (if that was the type of LED being used, which is highly likely) does not have as much effect (although isn't it interesting that, despite what Bugbee says about margin of error, there is still a variation in CBD levels of 6%?). Meanwhile, other tests on high THC strains have shown that there is an effect – especially in the blue area <450nm. See the other links in this thread for those tests.
For your 4x2 you should probably talk to @Prawn Connery, as he also grows in a 4x2 and is running about 340-350W at the boards. I suspect you are simply running too much light in there with the COBs that is stressing your plants.
![[ZooWeeMaMa]](/data/avatars/m/1031/1031121.jpg?1582053248){kind=avatar}
[ZooWeeMaMa]
Well-Known Member
hybridway2
Amare Shill
Again, thnx for your support but its all of us here together that make this a good Forum to learn about LEDs. Many of these guys know allot more then i do about things led lighting related. I learn from them & hopefully my experiences help some of them in turn.Whether i do good or not.
So basically it's a community effort here. Not everyone always agrees with each other. While others learn from both sides.
This thread especially has good info.
hybridway2
Amare Shill
Totally agree about Bruces videos.
Humple
Well-Known Member
Pretty sure he's trying to troll you, man.
radiant Rudy
Well-Known Member
Prior to this set up i was using the exact same sinks, drivers and frame but the cobs were earlier versions. With that set-up i grew plenty of healthy, potent heavy yielders. Only after the "upgrade" which added about 50-60w did quality decline.
I experience zero heat issues, there is terrific air exchange in this room.
Since it seems that light stress is my problem i will start by using the dimmer function on the 80w drivers and take a reading on the killowatt. Maybe dimming will be sufficient to get me back to where i had been with the older cobs.
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welight
Well-Known Member
The generation of COB you use wont impact the design, other than provide you with greater efficiency, more likely the extra 60 watt of light tipped you over to too much light in a non CO2 environment, maybe just adding CO2 is the simplest solution. However moving to a strip build will certainly get your light spread out better, by definition, less light stress, you got a lot of juice there for 2x4
Cheers
Mark
everything seems to be going great. frost is starting to build up and smell is getting strong. out of town at the moment, but these were from friday. I'll try and get some better photos next week.
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[ZooWeeMaMa]
Well-Known Member
Is there a thread for high light users?
radiant Rudy
Well-Known Member
Thanks GLA, I really appreciate your detailed response. Dr.Bugbee's conclusions did often seem like they needed more proving out. Although its classy of him to give credit to the workers doing the tasks.
Regarding the benefit of blue @450 do you think I'm providing ample blue radiance to my room through the pair of 4k vero29's?
I think for my first stab at making a correction I'll dim down the main rig which is providing >60% of all light. I need to get a dimmer/potentiometer as the MW's im using have no dimmer function. Would you know if something like this would work?
Ill check with prawn as you suggest. Thanks again.
radiant Rudy
Well-Known Member
Thanks Mark. CO2 would not be practical in this space because of room size and air handling. But I am certainly open to switching to strips if the benefit is going to be substantial. As far as distribution no doubt the strips are far more evenly emitting photons than a cob rig but my set-up doesnt not terribly concentrate the engines. For sure there is a hot spot in the center but dimming might be a huge help. I do have my cobs spread out on a 46 x 18" frame and the over all space is 48 x 24 so it isnt nuts but yes that optic box is bright AF with 4 cobs <320w from a 12x18" case.
For starters I think I'll try to get to figure out a dimmer, drop the optic to ~50% and possibly swap out the 1750 cob. Do you think I would benefit by adding more blue to the configuration?
If my rig is actually a dinosaur or a steam engine, i am totally amenable to going with new tech.
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end_of_the_tunnel
Well-Known Member
Long time lurker here. I have found myself frustrated with the lack of specifics in some of his own videos and one in which he was interviewed. But lets face it, the man has been involved in the publication of a lot of plant biology papers. Maybe when he and staff at Utah State have amassed and collated more datasets, then we can expect him to be more specific. Who else might be an authority in plant lighting? Erik Runkle ? But I dont think he has anything cannabis specific to say, or does he...
Since we are in the High Light thread, how about we go look at the advantages that the bluer of the pair has to offer.
I'm not sure if I can post the links, but if people go to Valoyas website and have a dig around in the Medicinal Plant section.
You will find links there to two video seminar presentations on cannabis specific lighting, that were held in conjunction with some North American producers group. One video from 2018, and another 2019. I would have to review the videos again, but this could make for good relevant conversation. I know @Prawn Connery will be interested, if not already aware. It was his posts pointing out that Italian study that got me interested too. And @Humple . Come to the 420nm side, and let the force be with you. Nah, go have a look at those valoya videos, if you like.
