Week 4 of Veg- Help or comments please.

jonnylongton

Active Member
Please try to get a more color correct picture. Try changing the light settings on the phones camera. I was referring to the loss of chlorophyll between the sections of the leaves. Look up diagnosing marijuana deficiencies on you boob. I once saw a good video that was by an actual professor that was very simple to understand and detailed.
I will do my best mate. Ive just took some and am going to look at them on the laptop to see what they look like my friend. Thank you so much for your information on "looking up diagnosing marijuana".
Also MICHi-CAN could you please teach me the difference between PPM or EC. I see your preference is PPM but when i first bought a bluelab wand they told me to just check the EC, mentioned nothing about PPMs, and i was learned just to keep within the EC range. To be honest with being a newb i wouldnt know what to have my settings as each week in PPMs , where as in EC i knew its like between 1.2-1.4 and i know that if my range is inbetween those i *hopefully* should be ok without any or many problems.
Thank you once again so much for your valuable information. I will do a bit of research on PPMs seeing as you reckon they are much more accurate than reading in ECs, im lucky enough to have the choice on my trimeter to change it to PPMs as well. I will have a check if those pictures are worth uploading.
Just done a bit of reading on PPMs and this has got me confused straight away "
What is ppm for flowering?
Cannabis enjoys 500-600 ppm after cloning, 800-900 ppm when vegetating, and 1000-1100 ppm when flowering. So knowing the mineral content of your water before mixing your nutes can avoid stressing you and your plants"
So how do you raise your ppm from 800-900 to 1000-1100 ppm please.
Ive just been take some pictures of
1-settings
2-plants (hopefully in a better colour)
3-Proper light colour for the kind folk who were concerned about how the lights looked very dark and probably needs replacing. I know they are new and quite a good light not a budget one.

So sorry for harping on and asking so many questions MICH-CAN, i appreciate your kind patience
 

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jonnylongton

Active Member
i have the feeling ppm/tds is a USA thing
in europe you will never hear about it imo ..
there is 2 conversion charts so its confusing i find

ec is ec lol in the state and europe also lol
Hi Kingromono, hope you are well. Ive just been reading about it, because ive not really heard of ppm with being new, but its something to do with what is in your water, similar to in europe of hard water and soft water. ive just copied and pasted this. and thats about the only sense i can take in at the monent "Cannabis enjoys 500-600 ppm after cloning, 800-900 ppm when vegetating, and 1000-1100 ppm when flowering. So knowing the mineral content of your water before mixing your nutes can avoid stressing you and your plants. "
 

steve870

Well-Known Member
i have the feeling ppm/tds is a USA thing
in europe you will never hear about it imo ..
there is 2 conversion charts so its confusing i find

ec is ec lol in the state and europe also lol
yes i used to work in tomatoes greenhouses, i had never heard of anyone checking their solutions with ppm's before i got on this forum. The strains we ran were at ec 2.8 irrigation and drainage was 3.5 ec. Almost burnt my first grow i thought cannabis was tough like tomatoes lol
 

kingromano

Well-Known Member
Hi Kingromono, hope you are well. Ive just been reading about it, because ive not really heard of ppm with being new, but its something to do with what is in your water, similar to in europe of hard water and soft water. ive just copied and pasted this. and thats about the only sense i can take in at the monent "Cannabis enjoys 500-600 ppm after cloning, 800-900 ppm when vegetating, and 1000-1100 ppm when flowering. So knowing the mineral content of your water before mixing your nutes can avoid stressing you and your plants. "
yeah but depending on the scale theyre speaking its confusing .. usually its the 700
dont bother with it
measure it in mS ( ec) forget ppms
ec=electroconductivity of the solution, which gives an "estimation" of how many fertilizer are dissolved
ppm=parts per million
its the same, just different ways to measure it like we use kilos in europe, you use pounds
we use liters you use gallons ...
do you use organic or mineral fertilizers ?
 

steve870

Well-Known Member
well, ppms can be usefull if you want to calculate a fertilizer recipe or pesticides concentrations in the metric system . But it's not really usefull to measure it because as Kingromano said, there is multiples conversions tables so it's just simpler to calculate salt concentration with ec.
 

kingromano

Well-Known Member
well, ppms can be usefull if you want to calculate a fertilizer recipe or pesticides concentrations in the metric system . But it's not really usefull to measure it because as Kingromano said, there is multiples conversions tables so it's just simpler to calculate salt concentration with ec.
honestly if im not wrong the tester makes the conversion, the method the tester use to calculate ppm and EC is exactly the same, it just measure how much the solution conduct electricity
a pure ro water doesnt conduct any electricity
its 0.0MS, 0 ppm
more you dissolve salts inside more it will conduct electricity
the tester just convert it for youn depending what scale your used to

he measure 1.0 ms of conductivity for exemple. he convert it in ppm and show you 700 ppm
in tds it make 500tds
forget the ppms/tds

sorry for the book, dont want to give headaches
 

jonnylongton

Active Member
yeah but depending on the scale theyre speaking its confusing .. usually its the 700
dont bother with it
measure it in mS ( ec) forget ppms
ec=electroconductivity of the solution, which gives an "estimation" of how many fertilizer are dissolved
ppm=parts per million
its the same, just different ways to measure it like we use kilos in europe, you use pounds
we use liters you use gallons ...
do you use organic or mineral fertilizers ?
Thank you my friend, i will stick to ec as those in the growshop only talk ec and the charts are in ec.

At the moment i am using the "shogun range" mate. Using 60/40 coco mix, just the other day thought i was in the shop and asked for some PH down, and they told me they now do it in a organic range which doesnt kill any micro organisms in the soil, where as the normal PH down would. It is Bio BIzz mate. I dont know if that is any use to you.
 

jonnylongton

Active Member
well, ppms can be usefull if you want to calculate a fertilizer recipe or pesticides concentrations in the metric system . But it's not really usefull to measure it because as Kingromano said, there is multiples conversions tables so it's just simpler to calculate salt concentration with ec.
thank you very much steve870 , really helps and makes things much simpler mate
 

steve870

Well-Known Member
ph down is ph down, just use the cheapest stuff, pre-dilute it, and adjust your feed solution with it. It won't kill any bacteria it will only add H+ ions and (for the phosphoric acid) PO4 3-
 

jonnylongton

Active Member
ph down is ph down, just use the cheapest stuff, pre-dilute it, and adjust your feed solution with it. It won't kill any bacteria it will only add H+ ions and (for the phosphoric acid) PO4 3-

nice one thank you steve. when you say just use the cheapest stuff, could you elaborate on that please, as ive always thought it was the same till i heard about the organic bio bizz one yesterday mate
 

steve870

Well-Known Member
nice one thank you steve. when you say just use the cheapest stuff, could you elaborate on that please, as ive always thought it was the same till i heard about the organic bio bizz one yesterday mate
Ph down is basically acid which adds H+ ions in the water solution to make it more acidic. You can use many different forms of acid like, phosphoric acid, citric acid, hydrochloric acid ( not too much because of the chlorine), sulphuric acid. As long as you don't lower your ph too much, bacteria shouldn't get killed. Most soils are ph 6-7, and the rain has a tendency to acidify it because of SO2 dilution in rain dropplets which forms sulphuric acid. Organic ph downs are normally made from lemon juice ( citric acid). It'S the same stuff as food grade citric acid. they probably just want to sell you the expensive stuff
 

jonnylongton

Active Member
Ph down is basically acid which adds H+ ions in the water solution to make it more acidic. You can use many different forms of acid like, phosphoric acid, citric acid, hydrochloric acid ( not too much because of the chlorine), sulphuric acid. As long as you don't lower your ph too much, bacteria shouldn't get killed. Most soils are ph 6-7, and the rain has a tendency to acidify it because of SO2 dilution in rain dropplets which forms sulphuric acid. Organic ph downs are normally made from lemon juice ( citric acid). It'S the same stuff as food grade citric acid. they probably just want to sell you the expensive stuff
Hi mate, i dont use rain water, just tap water which is classed as either a soft water zone, or a hard water zone. I forgot to add i was advised to get the organic one because i bought a small packet of biosys https://onestopgrowshop.co.uk/products/ecothrive-biosys and was told if i used the other ph down would kill whatever you add from the biosys. It is quite cheap as it goes, it works out about the same price.
 

jonnylongton

Active Member
with biobizz its very simple

give 1ml of biogrow each watering in veg, if you see that they become lighter green give em 2ml

in bloom you start to add bloom at 1ml and finish at 2ml when the flowering explode, at this time you only give 0.5ml of biogrow

keep biogrow at 0.5ml/liter during all the bloom, the molasss inside it is what will give you this amazing sugary taste


dont follow biobizz recommandations at 4ml/l. its stupid and youll have nutrient accumulations
or if you do feed every 2/3 waterings
your plants will prefer stability, and it will be easier for you to adjust

more is less

dont forget to give em 2 good weeks of plai water at the end, 3 weeks if you can ..
dont make your plant yellow at the end, its a broscience, you want them perfectly healthy until the end, not nitrogen deprivated

biobizz like all organic nutrient are slow releasing.. i you water with organic at week 7 exemple, it will slowly release fertilizer during 2 weeks

2/3 weeks of plain water at the end will allow them to finish the nutrients inside you medium, and give you a clean product
Thank you so much kingromano what a great post and very educational, even better than they gave me at the shop. I was told only to give the plants the biosys once every two weeks as treat.. mix it in a 2ltre jug and slowly pour it in your pots over the soil once they have been fed so it soaks in the soil and all the goodness will help richen the soil mixture. They didnt say to do it every 2/3 waterings. Id find it hard to do that as its in a IWS system and it feeds by timer. I set a feed for twice a day and they said dont mix it with your other nutrients in the water butt/reservoir, just keep that as normal and feed the biosys once every two weeks or if stressed once every week. I never got told you ad it to your nutrients and feed that way but with less of your normal nutrients.
Having read your post it was totally different and more informative than what i got told at the shop.
Can i use Biogrow along my normal nutrients mate, mixed in with it? for the whole of the time then? They only mentioned about biosys .
I will have a much better read up on it tomorrow, its way to late for my brain to function properly at nearly 1.30 am lol.

Once again thank you very much my friend.
 
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