Bringing soil ph down during the grow

Imbald

Well-Known Member
What options are there to lower the soil ph level during the grow?

I'm a month into flower, so I have another month or so left of flower.
Lower leaves are yellowing on a some of my plants this past week. Working there way up the plant. So I did a soil slurry test and sure enough it's over 7.05 ph.
I think they are just locked out of taking in since I'm getting high on ph.
Feeding won't help if I don't lower the ph in the soil.
I think if I could bring it down to 6.3 - 6.5 the plants will improve along with the flowering.
They are flowering nice, but for how long concerns me.
 

Grow So High

Well-Known Member
What options are there to lower the soil ph level during the grow?

I'm a month into flower, so I have another month or so left of flower.
Lower leaves are yellowing on a some of my plants this past week. Working there way up the plant. So I did a soil slurry test and sure enough it's over 7.05 ph.
I think they are just locked out of taking in since I'm getting high on ph.
Feeding won't help if I don't lower the ph in the soil.
I think if I could bring it down to 6.3 - 6.5 the plants will improve along with the flowering.
They are flowering nice, but for how long concerns me.
Start using water that has a PH of around 6-6.5 until the soils Ph begins to come down and then continue watering with a PH of 6.5-6.8. 7 is high but not insanely high
 

Imbald

Well-Known Member
Start using water that has a PH of around 6-6.5 until the soils Ph begins to come down and then continue watering with a PH of 6.5-6.8. 7 is high but not insanely high
Thanks for the input.
Thing is, I use rain water from a rain barrel.
It usually has a ph of 6. The plants are in two and a half gallons of soil in three and a half gallon containers. Last night I flushed two gallons of it through and it came out 7 ph.
I added 3ml cal/mag and 3ml EM1 to another gallon. It ph'd 4.5. It came out at over 7 ph also.

Not sure I want to try it, but I just read on www.marijuanagrowing.com that watering with diluted leftover coffee can help?
Here is the info I just read.

"Adding organic matter is an indirect method of soil pH adjustment. Organic matter “buffers” soil, especially sandy soil.
The higher the organic matter content of a soil, the more lime it takes to raise the soil pH 1 point, and the more sulfur it takes to lower the soil pH 1 point.

Plants grown in soil with a lot of organic matter have healthier roots. They’re able to extract enough nutrients from the soil even when the pH isn’t optimal. In a healthy soil with adequate organic matter, changing soil pH may not be necessary, because plants continue to grow at pH levels that would stunt growth in leaner soils. When you increase soil organic matter, you’re not really changing soil pH, you’re increasing your plants’ tolerance for acidic or alkaline conditions.

Soil pH can be lowered by half a point—from 7.0 to 6.5, for example—by increasing soil nitrogen. Adding compost, manure, or organic soil amendments like alfalfa meal to the soil can help drop pH over time by increasing bacterial populations. Organic nitrogen fertilizers can be used to lower soil pH by small amounts.

There's a myth that coffee grounds (2-0-0) are a quick fix for lowering soil pH. Most of the organic acids in coffee are water-soluble, and flush out into the brew. Coffee grounds have a pH around 6.8, close to neutral, so they won't do much to lower pH. They do add a little nitrogen, so they can help reduce pH over time, just like manure or compost.

If you need to drop soil pH more quickly, try watering your plants with leftover (cold) coffee, diluted 50-50 with water. This works especially well for houseplants and container vegetables.

To lower soil pH by larger amounts (more than half a point), use Elemental Sulfur, sometimes called “Flowers of Sulfur”. When using sulfur for changing soil pH, be aware that the acidifying effect depends on soil bacteria (thiobacillius), which oxidize the sulfur and release dilute sulfuric acid into the soil over a period of weeks to months."

Here is a couple pics. You can see the yellowing in some of the leaves.
But the flower stills looks good.
0201201136.jpg0202201239a.jpg0201201136a.jpg
 
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4ftRoots

Well-Known Member
I think the plant, if healthy, will release acids that naturally decrease ph in the surrounding soil. That is how it takes up nutrient salts and releases them from high CEC materials.

Honestly, your probably just out of nitrogen. Those are small pots. The first thing I do when I see a deficiency is blame the container size and the nutrient content. PH is hardly a factor in soil.
 

Imbald

Well-Known Member
I think the plant, if healthy, will release acids that naturally decrease ph in the surrounding soil. That is how it takes up nutrient salts and releases them from high CEC materials.

Honestly, your probably just out of nitrogen. Those are small pots. The first thing I do when I see a deficiency is blame the container size and the nutrient content. PH is hardly a factor in soil.
You may be right. I have the same strain in bigger containers without the problem.
But they are also different soils. IDK.
Another funny thing is the plants that are yellowing, have the frostier flowers??
What would you recommend for good, fast, organic food?
I have kelp and alfalfa for a nutrient tea. Out of ewc though.
Or, maybe buy something like a Nectar of the Gods product?
 

4ftRoots

Well-Known Member
You may be right. I have the same strain in bigger containers without the problem.
But they are also different soils. IDK.
Another funny thing is the plants that are yellowing, have the frostier flowers??
What would you recommend for good, fast, organic food?
I have kelp and alfalfa for a nutrient tea. Out of ewc though.
Or, maybe buy something like a Nectar of the Gods product?
How different are the soils? The fact that they are not yellowing in a bigger pot is a strong sign of nitrogen deficiency.

Thats normal. Cannabis creates resin in response to stress whether it is heat, cold, low light, high light, water, or nutrient. Lack of nutrition is a stress condition so it is putting out more resin. I can't explain why that would help in such a condition but the plant does it. Yay for us lol.

What week are your plants in flower? Coot said you can use alfalfa tea in flower, not sure how late. I would make a very weak alfalfa/kelp tea first and see if you can clear up the deficiency. Keep increasing the strength until the yellowing stops. Then you'll know the perfect strength to feed. Issues is, you'll have to continue feeding until harvest because the pot can't sustain the plant. Luckily, alfalfa and kelp are great for teas so you can't go wrong. Downside, alfalfa could slow flowering if you feed too concentrated/ too much so be careful.

Another option is urine... I know, sounds weird. I've used it before. You'll have to figure out feed rates on your own.

You could use nectar of the Gods if you already have it. It would also give you feed rates that would be incredibly beneficial at a time like this.

Personally, I would bottom water teas daily to support the plant until harvest time, but I'm 100% against bottled products so...

Either way you can clear this up. That plants look great!
 

Grow So High

Well-Known Member
I do agree that the yellowing leaves could just be lack of nitrogen but a lot of the green leaves seem to be showing signs of a magnesium deficiency in my opinion
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
If you didn't add compost at the start of flowering this is usually the result: yellowing off by mid flower. Your mix has become inactive. You can try to reverse this or just give them soluble npk or both. I would top dress with ewc of you have not tried that yet and give them a dose of liquid fish like neptunes harvest or maxicrop. The alternative is to just give them some nutrients and then recycle the root ball by adding compost after harvest which will also lower the ph slightly. Adding raw organic material like compost is the easiest way to drop ph even though a ph of 7 should be ok in a soil grow.
 

Imbald

Well-Known Member
Sweet! What's the recipe?
For the first round, probably just be
5 gal. water
1/2 cup of alfalfa meal
1/2 cup of kelp meal
1/2 cup Bu's compost
5 tlbs. Black Strap Molasses
2 tbls. EM1 since I'm out of ewc.
Bubble for 24 hrs.

See what the ppm is when finished and dilute down if needed. Probably shoot for 700-800.

Open to suggestions of course.
 

Imbald

Well-Known Member
Sulfur will do it. From what you said, it sounds like micronutrients are locked out and they will if Ph goes above 6.5. Good Luck!!!
Thanks. I just read that somewhere.
I have granulated gypsum on hand. I know it has sulfur and calcium and breaks down in water.
Could I add some now in my tea or in a watering to help lower my ph?
If so, how much?
Or could it just make matters worse with the calcium in it?
I also have heard sulfur can build terps during flower.

I'm far from knowledgeable in soil....yet.
But I'm interested and trying to learn.
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Thanks. I just read that somewhere.
I have granulated gypsum on hand. I know it has sulfur and calcium and breaks down in water.
Could I add some now in my tea or in a watering to help lower my ph?
If so, how much?
Or could it just make matters worse with the calcium in it?
I also have heard sulfur can build terps during flower.

I'm far from knowledgeable in soil....yet.
But I'm interested and trying to learn.
Gypsum really doesn't affect the Ph. The big stores will sell sulfur for blueberries, azaleas, and rhododendrons. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Espoma-Soil-Acidifier-6-lb-Organic-Soil-Conditioner-PH-Balancer/50041772?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-lwn-_-google-_-lia-_-107-_-plantfood-_-50041772-_-0&store_code=5&placeholder=null&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIr63BpcW95wIVhcDACh1TIQmKEAQYASABEgKIxvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
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