So you think the spots are nutrient OD? And I’m sorry but literally everyone else has told me different about the notes. They say after like a month the soil gets dry. My other plants are in flower because they are older.You don't to use nutrients if you use enough of that soil. Transplant to a much bigger pot using same soil. Water when dry. Dark leaves are a good indication that it's getting too much nitrogen by way of that additional nutrients you're using. Put the plant in a 5 to 10 gallon pot. 12/12 lighting when it's around 2.5 feet tall.
Lol yeah you may be right about that plant but my others don’t match that description. They’re in flower in bigger pots and still have that conditionIf you want to listen to "everyone" go ahead. What I see is you have dark green leaves, which tends to indicate too much nitrogen. The plant is small a nd doesn't look like it's been growing for more than one month. You have left it in a small pot when you should transplant. You're using a soil known to have nutrients and are adding more to a small amount of soil. That's what I see in your post. But go ahead and do what you want.
The pic isn't all that clear but that plant pic along with the info you posted in other threads, points to PH/root isssue and your inputs. That plant isn't presenting N tox. Its presenting P def. (dark bluish green leaves with blotching starting to form) Similar to N tox but the other symptoms aren't present.here’s a pic of the condition Thank you for any help. Growing in FFHF. Using Fox Farm nutes.
I started adding cal-mag to my solution i will see what happens.The pic isn't all that clear but that plant pic along with the info you posted in other threads, points to PH/root isssue and your inputs. That plant isn't presenting N tox. Its presenting P def. (dark bluish green leaves with blotching starting to form) Similar to N tox but the other symptoms aren't present.
My best guess - this is pH and/or temp related. Zinc and Iron abundance can lock up P but I looked at the GA of FFBB and FFGB and the micro numbers are OK. There's no Cal listed though. Something to consider.
Plants can often have trouble up-taking P. A good inoculation of bennies would help with that.
A little more info and some of the seasoned growers could give you a more concise answer. Fertigating an organic base with mineral salts can be a tricky.
Nutrient used along EC/PPMs
Water source (starting water PPMS too if not using RO)
Day/Night temps and RH
Well I have the 3 classic grow big, big bloom, tiger bloom.Squash, when you say you're using FF nutes, can you be more specific? Exactly which ones, how much, and how often. It helps if you give all the details so people can help you better. Give your day night temps too.
No not that plant.There is a 12/12 light schedule tag...Are you trying to flower? I think Tangerine is spot on.
Yeah I basically grew them for 2 months with no fert then started ferting them. They did well initially and there is plenty of new growth but all plants have at least a few burned tips And the spotting. I transplanted the small one into a 3 gallon bucket and I used my “light” feeding solution I mentioned above but from now on I will just water with cal mag.Since your soil probably has P in it and Grow Big certainly does, NPK 6-4-4, it's probably not P def. If anything I still say the plant is getting too much of something. Happy Frog, if that's what you're using has bat guano said to be high in nitrogen and phosphorus. Adding more to small containers might not be a good idea, unless you're certain you have to. It looks like you've been adding extra bottle nutrients all along without being certain you should. If there's P in the soil from the factory and P in the fert your giving, then I doubt if it's P def as mentioned. Anyone can argue that the P def is caused by bad pH or what have you, but I'm thinking that pH is less of an issue than all the fert that the roots are getting. For the small one pictured, I would put the soil to the test and transplant to a 5 gallon bucket with HF soil, and do nothing else, just water. Use a container that will drain, and see what happens. If at some point you see the leaves go light green or develop some spotting, maybe a dose of fert is a good idea. Just be careful not to over do it. It's easy to get caught up in ferting way too much as people do that here very often. They give fert every water or every other water when there's probably no need and no proof the plant needs that much. I don't know how people got the idea of feed, water, feed. If you're using soil much of the fert you're using will stay in the soil for a while. Perhaps weeks. Over ferting is the most common reason why people ruin their plants as there's no clear instructions on how often to use them. This leaves the door open to mistakes.
That container is 4 gallons. I don’t have that much space so that’s all it gets. It will need to adaptGo easy on the calmag. You really want to see how much of that soil is useful, how long you can grow a plant without feeding it. Just remember that you need to transplant to make the most of the soil. Use large containers.