New Build with Bridgelux Strips and grow room

C

cannaron

Member
Ok I have caught the led grow bug, spent many hours reading about LED strips here, have some technical brain cells (but still make mistakes !) and have come up with a plan for a new grow room lighting. Here is a background on the room and what I am proposing to do. I just got done building a 2 x 2 lights , 6 each 2 ft bridgelux strips with a meanwell 120 Driver as a prototype, to use for vegging clones and new plants, before building the rest of the lights for the room. I used 1 x 5/8 1/16 thick channel for the frame, and installed a 100 K potentiometer. Got a 100 K resistor to install later on the potentiometer. I am going to go into as many details, the questions are in bold to skip through the BS.

Grow room dimensions : 7Ft x 9Ft with sloping roof in attic space. Ceiling height: 7 ft at center Roof line of room is pitched to the center, 2 1 x4s and one 2 x 4, that can be temp connected together, or disconnected to allow to contour the lights slope of the ceiling to maximize height of grow. This should allow for 5 ft of growing height and gives an extra ft.

Grow light area: 4 x 4 and 2 x 2 20 SF Total Insulated with 2 6 mil layers of plastic sealing, filtration and air exchange.

One 20 amp circuit

Lights to be built 3 PCS used for both Veg and Flowering with strips approximately 4 inches apart on center.

2 x 4 with 6 pcs of Bridgelux 4 Ft strips running at 48 V HLG-320H-48, wagos, thermal tape on 1 x 5/8 1/16 thick channel for the frame, with the driver mounted to the top of the frame, 100 K potentiometer installed to frame with heat shrink, with a 100 K resistor, 16 gauge wire.

2 EA 1 x 4 with 3 pcs each of Bridgelux 4 Ft strips running at 48 V HLG-150H-48 wagos, thermal tape on 1 x 5/8 1/16 thick channel for the frame, with the driver mounted to the top of the frame, 100 K potentiometer installed to frame with heat shrink, with a 100 K resistor, 16 gauge wire, or I could be lazy and order HLG driver with the built in potentiometer.

I used the parallel strip building tool to come up with different size and number of strips designs, and have concluded I should run 48 V versus 24 V, to reduce the amp load by half. Is this correct ?

Based on a total of 12 4 FT Strips at 75 % power for the combined 3 fixtures I came up with the following from the tool, assuming installing a dedicated driver for each light fixture versus one, its less money to buy 3 versus one, and they are not tethered together permanently.

SYSTEM VOLTAGE (V) 45.5
SYSTEM CURRENT (A) 12.600
POWER (W) 573.3
Watts SF 35.84
SYSTEM LUMEN ESTIMATE 81,792
Lumens SF 5112
SYSTEM DIODE COUNT: 1152


Due to ceiling height limitation I am assume that I will be have to running the lights closer to the plants. I assuming less issues with heat running with less amps, at 48 V and never exceeding the 75 % and using the aluminum 1/6 U channel as a heat sink. I also read specs of commercial grow lights with 600 Watts LED for a 4 x 4, with more lumens than this configuration I am planning. I see many different takes on this, 30 Watts a SF, and I decided to go to 35.8 a SF and increase the lumens have enough power during flowering. I have a par meter, and plan to increase the dimmer on the lights in stages during the growing cycle. PH water and soil testing, NPK test kit and am using fox farm soil with some dolimite, and maybe am going to use organic nutrients during the later stage vegging and in flower monitoring the soil.

Is this enough power to flower with max productivity, without having to run this at far distances to maximize the grow height ? Do not want to to C02, not so worried about vegging, just want to maximize the flowering with out frying them with the new lights.

Do I have to install the resistor on the potentiometer, or without it am i losing any performance if the potentiometer is not up to the rating it specs?

Am I going to run into heat problems when this thing is cranked up during flowering ? I could use 1/4" aluminum channel but it weighs a lot. Based on the almost no heat out put of the 2 x 2 i built, I am assuming similar outcome. I guess offsetting the driver attached to frame with a thermal insulator and would help.

Can 2 ft bridgelux strips be used on 48 V, like combining 2 together in terms of wiring? This would allow to install an additional 2 x 4 and reduce the current/amps.

Can I increase the number of strips to gain and productivity or more even coverage they will be about 4 inches apart on center?

I am planning on using heat shrink on all connections where needed, heat resistant silicone for the strip connections, and 16 gauge wire versus 18, install a GFI, and ground the chassis. Is there a nice safe simple way to do so ? Ideas for a on/off switch, fuses etc.

Any further ideas, and I appreciate in advance any help. Feel free to make suggestions. I will be building more the these.
 
cobshopgrow

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
basically you can put 2 strips in series to half the current, ampere, yes.

you should buy some resistors also, below 100k resistance is simply not full power, aim for 105 or so to be on the safe side.
pots with exactly 100k are seldon but they exist.
 
diggs99

diggs99

Well-Known Member
Is this the bxeb gen 3s your using? or the gen 2s?

Sounds like you got a good plan, ill be following along. Best of luck
 
diggs99

diggs99

Well-Known Member
Chip Green said:
As a consumate BXEB fanboy knobjockey,
everything looks good to me.
You will undoubtedly experience impressive results.
I'm still reaping the benefits of the Gen1 series BXEB "lamps" I built three years ago.
Click to expand...
did you buy and build with any gen 3s yet?

i know you love your bxebs lol
 
Chip Green

Chip Green

Well-Known Member
cannaron said:
maximize the flowering with out frying them with the new lights
Click to expand...
I found it borderline disturbing how close I could run these strips to the tops without any ill effect.
I recommend the "Dr. Meter" brand lux device, for determining baseline readings for hanging heights, and or light spacing.
 
C

cannaron

Member
Attic Grow Room

Hoping I can get some constructive feedback on this lighting new attic grow room. I have outdoor growing experience many years with many plants, cannabis as well, this is the first indoor for me. I germinated 30 plants about 7 days ago, and have them in a temp. home in 3 x 3 closet, until the grow room and lights are built. Need a fast sanity check on the lighting design. I built one 2 x 2 light already, but after using this one I changed the specs radically after reading the many posts here, and seeing the performance on the new plants, and the max umols of about 600 output. They are vegging faster than expected, so I have to get the room ready in a week. Help ! Thanx in advance !!!! Ron

Summary
  • 8 x 10 x 8 FT@ center of ceiling triangle shaped attic room
  • Grow Location: NE USA - weather is currently very cold, assuming higher ambient temps in grow room in located in attic summer months, the light should produce the minimal heat at maximum efficiency, capable of running close to the canopy.
  • Strains for first grow: Girl scout cookies, wedding cake, Gorilla glue, from breeders, (22) and bag seed (8). Number of new plants germinated and on hand: 30.
  • New plants under 2 x 2, 20/4 schedule, in a 3 x 3 closet, temporarily until grow room complete. Light configuration: frame 1/16 thick u channel, with 6 22" Bridgelux 3.5 K strips, and 120 Watt driver, dimmer controlled via potentiometer/ resistor light was built to led gardeners design for 2 x 2, 16 gauge wire. Photos of plants @ 7 days after germination, with exception of 2 larger ones in center which are older. Running @ approx. .9 amp, 106 watts @ wall, , approx. 400 umols @ 12” from canopy based on par meter, edges drop off 50 -75 umols, corners 100. Temp of chassis, 88 F, temp @ leaf level 75-82 F. Maximum umol reading from the above light at full power 580- 600 umol @ 12". This light will be dedicated to cloning, plant starting and extra veg area, might add/ replace strips with higher K in future, that is more suited to veg. No sure if this light is powerful enough to flower at the intensity of 800-1000 umols. I am interested in maximum flexibility, with higher readings than this for the flowering cycle.
  • Lighting footprint for Veg/Flower : approx. 4 FT x 6 FT 24 SF (57.2" x 73.5") located in center of room.
  • Max plant height in center allowing for 12” pot height and 12” Light height from canopy. 2 FT wide lights in center of room - 5 FT max height ,14 “ wide lights max height 4 FT.
  • Grow room could be divided in future with 4 x 4 flower area, and 2 x 4 veg area with a 2 x 2 for cloning or used as additional veg area. Mylar will be sue for the walls, with vents that do not allow light to pass through.
  • Insulated R19 ceilings r13 walls with one layer 6 mil plastic and a 6 mil white/black mylar layer (12 mil total) sealed with white duct tape
  • Volume of room 300 CF
  • Average temp in average attic win winter 55 F Summer 90 F.
  • Mylar zippered 30” entry, with 4" sheet insulation panel for access to room
  • 2 each 6" intake louvered vent @ Floor level to attic.
  • 6" 350 CFM Exhaust Fan with control and filter @ 8 Ft level, can be ported to outside wall in summer.
  • if heat/humidity becomes an issue
  • 55 Gallon drum located adjacent to grow room for water supply with pump for water supply, with manual watering hose, and 1/4"
  • Watering line for automated watering
Lighting
Due to the triangular ceiling shape of room lighting design will allow for lighting to be raised to conform to the shape of the room ceilings to accommodate maximum plant height in center, and plants @ edges. Lighting area will allow for multiple plant heights in sections with dimming. Would like to accommodate different strains lighting requirements, allowance for maximum of 800-1000 umols output with more frequent air exchanges of grow room. Max strip density and potential to go higher power and allow for closer and more even distribution of light. This is based on first 2 x 2 test build and its umol output, with the new plants.
Framing: 5/8 x 1" 1/16 aluminum Channel @ $ 1/FT. Worried about heat dissipation with more strip density on chassis, and planned spacing between strip at approx. 2.6” between strips, and more power @ max dimming power. Considering going to 1/8 U channel, or go with 1/16 oscillating fan will cool the chassis, at the same time during normal air circulation of room.
Light will be capable of pivoting to the shape of the ceiling, and locked into position via simple metal strips between frames with wing nuts, precise equal spacing between frames for 2.6” OC grid of led strips.
Compensation of raising grow light to angle of ceilings: Added an additional 2" on sides of light area to accommodate the loss of a few inches, when light is at maximum height, on an angle.
Power: Meanwell Drivers based LED Gardener calculator used to select drivers, running @ 50 %. (looks like calculator was based gen1 not gen2 strips, I am assuming it will work with gen2.) Considering oversizing the drivers with more watts a little more than spec minimum so they will run cooler and more efficient.
Wiring: 16 gauge for strips with wagos in ABS junction boxes for all wago connections.
Dimming Potentiometer 100 k with resistor, mounted in small abs junction box on frame located at edges of frame for ease of access. Alexa enabled dimmer/switch can be used for each light with above manual dimmer turned up full, but is limited to 300 watt, cost $ 13 each, or from china for 4 for $ 13 on ebay/amazon . I am also considering using a wall based Alexa enabled dimmer for all 6 lights that can handle 1000 watts, or 2 @ 600 watts. Realistically, the lights will be adjusted frequently manually, with height adjustment, with use of a the hydrofarm par meter I have.
 

Attachments

C

cannaron

Member
Light list: Strips will be evenly spaced OC 2.6” for all lights, and between the lights as well to allow for even light distribution. All will be run in same direction, lengthwise of room. Drivers will be ordered with built in potentiometers/voltage adjustment if needed. All wired in parallel. I am using 2 1 ft strips on frames using 2 ft strips assuming the it’s the same using 2 1 Ft versus 1 2 ft voltage and specs. Hoping to get to 900 umol with this setup @ max.

QTY L W Strips Spec Watts Volts HLG Driver

2 45.5" x 14" 5 EA 44" bridgelux gen2 3.5 K 155 48 HLG 185h-48

1 45.5” x 24" 10 EA 44" bridgelux gen2 3.5 K 309 48 HLG 320H-48

2 28" x 14" 5 EA 22" bridgelux gen2 3.5 K 93 24 HLG 100H-24

2 EA 12” bridgelux gen2 3.5 K (See drawing for location on frame)

1 28" x 24 10 22" bridgelux gen2 3.5 K 185 24 V HLG 185H-24

2 EA 22” bridgelux gen2 3.5 K (See drawing for location on frame)

990 watts for approx. 24 Total SF 41.25 watts per SF running @ 50 % power. I could just use a 600 watt 48 volt and 320 watt 24 volt driver in place of of the multiple drivers for each frame, and maybe run at 75 % power, save a few bucks, it will run hotter and have to wire the separate lights together. With the 2 x 2 with 6 strips im running @ 90 F on 1/16 frame at max power, I am assuming the same temps. Am I nuts, building it this way ? Just like to get the umols needed.

I read so many posts that 3.5 K spectrum is good for all around lights performing veg and flower cycles. Is this correct ? I could mix 3 k and 5 K and end up with 4 K average, near the same place as using all 3.5 K ?

What About the 2.6” spacing of strips and is there a spacing setup to prevent higher umol readings in center ?

Far red

Trying to choose between Far red 16” led strips for $23 on ebay, or horticultural lighting group strip, or led pucks for $ 29 each to be installed on frame with separate driver, for flowering cycle, I have no idea how many strips, one puck will cover 3 SF, so 4 of the pucks to cover 4 x 6. Maybe 4 strips ? I like to add red to the light, more so than UV, understand since first indoor grow I want to reduce the variables.

UV

2 to 4 each of Horilux Power Veg/UV T5 4 FT 50 Watt each to be installed with hangers for adjustment, running lengthwise of grow room above the grow light, shading could be a problem, considering side mount. Used for sanitation of grow room, and flowering, will run during veg (shading by grow lights below ??) Starting at minimal use with adjustments made with uv meter and watch plants closely, used for flowering cycle, with use during veg cycle for sanitation of room. I looked at the UV LED strips, I am afraid of frying the plants. I know this is not required, but my objective is quality, not quantity, figured the UV with the extra veg spectrum will help maximize quality.
 
C

cannaron

Member
Help !!!!!!! I am desperate need of help to double check my selection of drivers, number of strips, and specs before ordering and building. I'll Send $ 30 bucks in bitcoin, that has been collecting dust, in appreciation, to whoever, can double check my lighting design, and who has the experience in building lights, and who can make sure I do not order the wrong drivers or size it incorrectly. Some have constant voltage, some you can adjust current (dimming) as well. I like the idea of installing encased potentiometers at the end of the chassis, access issue, so they can be adjusted with use of a par meter, without using the type that come built into the hlg drivers. The only reason id might like to step up the size is run the drivers less than max, or does it really matter ? Hopefully someone with some growing success with led DYI builds, and experience sizing the systems with the strips. I am hoping I can get close to 800 - 1000 umols @ max intensity for this set up. I have a mechanical engineering background, never have done lighting before. Do not want to fubar this and order close to a K in parts. Thanks !
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
I havent read thru the whole bit and ii havent got eb gen3 memorized. But you already got a few of the brightest on your thread and noone said anything about anything being wrong. My preference of drivers is type AB>A>B.

Your wattages seems onpoint.

For heatsinking at about 50w per 4' i think 1/4" is too much. Also many times you can use 1 sink for 2 strips wide if you wanna save money and weight
 
welight

welight

Well-Known Member
we just dropped a video on YT re strip builds and will be adding more in this playlist specific to strip builds if it helps, of course its pitched to our strips but is generic in terms of any strips
Cheers
Mark
 
C

cannaron

Member
I can build 3 of the 6 lights using 4 FT Gen2 3.5 K strips, and the other three in Gen3 slim strips 3.5 K strips, all that is aviaiable is 3 K and 5 K in gen3 2 ft and 1 FT, makes no sense to use the old and new, maybe just do the all the new lights in Gen3 slim, and spend more, Im sure the performance will be better. Does not look like there is inventory of the Gen3 regular strips. They have 80 and 90 CRI versions of the Gen3.

Build using Bridgelux Gen2 strips inventory check @ arrow and digikey, octopart. Looks like I’m going gen3, make the 6 lights all the same.

Gen2 Strips

L W QTY Instock Spec Watts Volts HLG Driver

BXEB-L1120Z-35E4000-C-B3 4 FT

45.5" x 14" 5 44" gen2 Y 3.5 K 155 48 HLG 185h-48

45.5” x 24" 10 44" gen2 Y 3.5 K 309 48 HLG 320H-48


Would have to use 3 and 5 K strips and mix them here, would end up with 4 K. I think 3.5 K better spectrum for veg and flower.

28" x 14" 5 22" gen2 N 3.5 K 93 24 HLG 100H-24

2 12” gen2 N

28" x 24 12 22" gen2 N 3.5 K 185 24 V HLG 185H-24

Gen3 Slim Strips

BXEB-L1190U-35E3000-C-C3 4 FT

45.5" x 14" 5 44" gen3 Y 3.5 K 155 48 HLG 185h-48

45.5” x 24" 10 44" gen3 Y 3.5 K 309 48 HLG 320H-48



BXEB-L0590U-35E1500-C-C3 2 FT
28" x 14" 5 22. 2" gen3 N 3.5 K 93 24 HLG 100H-24

BXEB-L0340U-35E0750-C-C3 1 FT

2 13” gen3 N

BXEB-L0590U-35E1500-C-C3 2 FT

28" x 24 12 22.2" gen3 N 3.5 K 185 24 V HLG 185H-24

The Gen3 slim are only .5 inch wide maybe can find cheapo led strip track with clear covers, it cost about $ 1.10/Ft for the 1/16 thick U channel 7/8 x 5/8.
 
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