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Clumpyoyster

Clumpyoyster

Well-Known Member
hey everyone. The last couple days one of my plants started turning color. I’m day 40 of flower and expect some change at end of flower but I think it’s happening to quickly. I’m in soil at ph 6.5. I’m feeding about every 4 days with maxibloom, florablend, calimagic, and floranectar. All at full strength. Should I worry?
 

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Bernie420

Bernie420

Well-Known Member
Clumpyoyster said:
hey everyone. The last couple days one of my plants started turning color. I’m day 40 of flower and expect some change at end of flower but I think it’s happening to quickly. I’m in soil at ph 6.5. I’m feeding about every 4 days with maxibloom, florablend, calimagic, and floranectar. All at full strength. Should I worry?
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Excessive salts restrict plant growth. Get a ppm meter.

and you are p deficient.
research microbes
 
Bernie420

Bernie420

Well-Known Member
Clumpyoyster said:
Should I flush?
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idk are you feed water water feed or are you feed feed feed.

On no info at all I would say no. I am saying that you need a ppm meter to see how hot you're feeding them. The salts accumulate and excessive salts will kill you microbe population as well.

I just think full strength off of a manufacturers recommendation tends to be too hot for what we need most of the time.

If you had a ppm meter I would say to feed it about 650 of bloom nutes and add about 150-200 of P to that for a few feedings.
 
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Clumpyoyster

Clumpyoyster

Well-Known Member
Bernie420 said:
idk are you feed water water feed or are you feed feed feed.

On no info at all I would say no. I am saying that you need a ppm meter to see how hot you're feeding them. The salts accumulate and excessive salts will kill you microbe population as well.

I just think full strength off of a manufacturers recommendation tends to be too hot for what we need most of the time.

If you had a ppm meter I would say to feed it about 650 of bloom nutes and add about 150-200 of P to that for a few feedings.
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I haven’t given just water for a while. Couple weeks. Being I’m going into week 7 is it a good idea to just water from here on out??
 
Clumpyoyster

Clumpyoyster

Well-Known Member
So this day 41 of flower im giving it ph 6.5 water with a bit of floranectar. 25%. Hopefully will help. Doubt I will go full dose nutes anymore. Thank and wish me luck
 
Powertech

Powertech

Well-Known Member
I’m pretty much in the same boat as you, but not sure if it’s the same reason. I was thinking mine was more just not quite having enough N. I’m day 49 now and I’m getting some yellowing as well. I’ll make a new post so I don’t hijack yours. Please comment if you think it is the same reason.
 
Mrs. Weedstein

Mrs. Weedstein

Well-Known Member
Is flushing as necessary outdoors? From regular crop farmers I know, it sounds like nitrogen salts naturally flush out of the root zone over time with irrigation and rain but this may be over period of full year (winter, etc.) rather than within the season. I just know they lime to counteract low PH every now and then.
 
Bernie420

Bernie420

Well-Known Member
Clumpyoyster said:
Isnt Calmag same kinda thing? I have Epson but just wondering
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Kind of but you dont have a cal problem although calcium is one of the most important things we have a mag problem so it would be better to focus on that by itself. You also have a potassium deficiency. So if you just had a potassium product by itself I would say to feed that at about 200 ppm to help that out as well.

I dont think I ever learned why they put cal/mag together like that but they do.

The p deficiency you wont see any improvements as that takes time to fix, and actually once a leaf turns its almost impossible to bring it back you have to catch it early like inspecting with a flashlight early, what we are doing is trying to slow it down and get the plant happy again. with that said I notice that mag and nitrogen are the easiest problem to get a leaf to get back to normal, meaning if you catch it early enough you can fix it.

I wish I could remember what that law is that they picture with a wood barrel about the lowest nutrient the plant has available is the limiting factor with the plant growth but I dont.
 
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Mrs. Weedstein

Mrs. Weedstein

Well-Known Member
xtsho said:
Flushing isn't necessary at all.
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Outdoors, right? I figure as long as I use naturally-derived N there won’t be as much salt buildup as with urea or UAN type shit. If it’s not derived from a chemical process, the salt issue is less of a concern right? Even if they used fish scales, I assume they’re washed.
 
Mrs. Weedstein

Mrs. Weedstein

Well-Known Member
Bernie420 said:
Kind of but you dont have a cal problem although calcium is one of the most important things we have a mag problem so it would be better to focus on that by itself. You also have a potassium deficiency. So if you just had a potassium product by itself I would say to feed that at about 200 ppm to help that out as well.

I dont think I ever learned why they put cal/mag together like that but they do.

The p deficiency you wont see any improvements as that takes time to fix, and actually once a leaf turns its almost impossible to bring it back you have to catch it early like inspecting with a flashlight early, what we are doing is trying to slow it down and get the plant happy again. with that said I notice that mag and nitrogen are the easiest problem to get a leaf to get back to normal, meaning if you catch it early enough you can fix it.

I wish I could remember what that law is that they picture with a wood barrel about the lowest nutrient the plant has available is the limiting factor with the plant growth but I dont.
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I’m guessing they combine calcium and magnesium because they’re both considered trace elements right? As least in comparison to NPK. I always wonder about large-scale fertilization programs that are real NPK oriented and how much cal/mag is added to those formulas. Farmers hate adding passes thru the field, which is why I assume the cal mag is applied at the same time, i Could be wrong
 
Clumpyoyster

Clumpyoyster

Well-Known Member
Mrs. Weedstein said:
Is flushing as necessary outdoors? From regular crop farmers I know, it sounds like nitrogen salts naturally flush out of the root zone over time with irrigation and rain but this may be over period of full year (winter, etc.) rather than within the season. I just know they lime to counteract low PH every now and then.
Click to expand...
This is an indoor tent grow
 
Mrs. Weedstein

Mrs. Weedstein

Well-Known Member
Clumpyoyster said:
This is an indoor tent grow
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Sorry it just reminded me of something I’ve been wondering about. I’m not as experienced as these other guys but my knee-jerk reaction is you shouldn’t bum out. Compared to the bud root and shit I’ve got festering outside, i would be pretty delighted with just some yellow leaves! I’ve gotta figure the plant is focusing on flower and pulls shit from the leaves as needed. There’s probably some way to prevent the yellowing but I doubt it’s gonna kill your plant or anything, based on your photos...

It looks like the biggest fan leaves are having the issue and those are always finicky and prone to bullshit. I’m almost sure you’ll have a great harvest.
 
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