A Guide To Colloidal Silver

HydroRed

Well-Known Member
Ok, so this is what put together. It was a charger for a Bluetooth, only old charger I could find. It only delivers 5.25V. Should that work? I am out of distilled water now too, using reverse osmosis water. View attachment 4388366 View attachment 4388367
Not sure about that low of voltage? Can you see a trail of silver particulates coming off the probe like "upside down smoke"? Thats about the best way I can describe it. If you can, then it is working. How long it takes to begin will heavily depend on how clean the water is. Distilled water will take the longest, but is the cleanest in regards to conductivity since theres no minerals or metals in it.
 

kev1968

Active Member
Not sure about that low of voltage? Can you see a trail of silver particulates coming off the probe like "upside down smoke"? Thats about the best way I can describe it. If you can, then it is working. How long it takes to begin will heavily depend on how clean the water is. Distilled water will take the longest, but is the cleanest in regards to conductivity since theres no minerals or metals in it.
I'll report back in about 24 hours If it works, it's gonna be a long process. I didn't read enough apparently lol the ro water has a ppm of 10 and I boiled it, so hopefully that will kick start it.
I think that is why my plant is not making pollen sacs, cause my original colliodal silver was made using 70V.
 

kev1968

Active Member
Today I said f*it, I'm doing everything right this time.
Distilled water and remade the harness for the batteries/silver.
Started at 33V and I'll swap with fresh batteries tomorrow. I read a study that said 33V is the optimal voltage.
I am going to make feminisd seeds if it kills me
 

kev1968

Active Member
Not sure about that low of voltage? Can you see a trail of silver particulates coming off the probe like "upside down smoke"? Thats about the best way I can describe it. If you can, then it is working. How long it takes to begin will heavily depend on how clean the water is. Distilled water will take the longest, but is the cleanest in regards to conductivity since theres no minerals or metals in it.
Ok I'm using 4x9V batteries in series, on the 2nd set of batteries now and approaching 48 hours and distilled water. Still 28V left on these batteries. My solution is dark brown and my tds meter says 28ppm. I want the colliodal silver stronger, but I don't want to overcook it.
Sorry for all questions, information is so conflicting.
Should I let these batteries drain (it will be approx 60 hours in total), or disconnect it and let it sit before filtering?
 

HydroRed

Well-Known Member
Ok I'm using 4x9V batteries in series, on the 2nd set of batteries now and approaching 48 hours and distilled water. Still 28V left on these batteries. My solution is dark brown and my tds meter says 28ppm. I want the colliodal silver stronger, but I don't want to overcook it.
Sorry for all questions, information is so conflicting.
Should I let these batteries drain (it will be approx 60 hours in total), or disconnect it and let it sit before filtering?
Forget about the ppm for now. Even at 28V, it shouldnt take but maybe 6 hrs or so to make a strong, clean batch. Remember, a nice batch will still be clear as drinking water but with just the slightest tinge of "amber" to it when held up to a bright white background. It can almost be unnoticeable so I'll put a piece of white printer paper under my jar and monitor the color while its brewing. If it is cloudy/murky or dark....its not a good batch. Check the electrodes every 15-20 min or so for burnt particulates and clean them off frequently to avoid the muddy cloudy mixes. If you get the occasional floater in the mix, you can strain it through a coffee filter and into another clean jar.
 

kev1968

Active Member
Forget about the ppm for now. Even at 28V, it shouldnt take but maybe 6 hrs or so to make a strong, clean batch. Remember, a nice batch will still be clear as drinking water but with just the slightest tinge of "amber" to it when held up to a bright white background. It can almost be unnoticeable so I'll put a piece of white printer paper under my jar and monitor the color while its brewing. If it is cloudy/murky or dark....its not a good batch. Check the electrodes every 15-20 min or so for burnt particulates and clean them off frequently to avoid the muddy cloudy mixes. If you get the occasional floater in the mix, you can strain it through a coffee filter and into another clean jar.
Making another batch now as per your instructions
 

EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
Is this a pass? It's at 20PPM (distilled water) now

View attachment 4388557
Looks good to me. Thoroughly spray the entire plant with that, 2-3x a day. Remember, you are trying to get as much silver into the plant as possible, so it can inhibit the ethylene production which is what causes the plant to produce calyxes instead of pollen sacs.

Making another batch now as per your instructions
If your solution is coming out amber, or turning amber over the course of 24 to 48 hours, an airstone will likely help. When you are done "brewing" the CS, pour it through two unbleached coffee filters, into a clean glass jar (dark glass is preferable, but use clear at first, to view the color and laser beam, and be careful with lasers, glass, water, and your eyes). Amber CS should work just fine, but I would avoid using it on yourself or your pets.
 

yabun

Active Member
If your solution is coming out amber, or turning amber over the course of 24 to 48 hours, an airstone will likely help. When you are done "brewing" the CS, pour it through two unbleached coffee filters, into a clean glass jar (dark glass is preferable, but use clear at first, to view the color and laser beam, and be careful with lasers, glass, water, and your eyes). Amber CS should work just fine, but I would avoid using it on yourself or your pets.
My colloidal silver turned dark amber within 24hrs, do I still use it??

 
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kev1968

Active Member
Forget about the ppm for now. Even at 28V, it shouldnt take but maybe 6 hrs or so to make a strong, clean batch. Remember, a nice batch will still be clear as drinking water but with just the slightest tinge of "amber" to it when held up to a bright white background. It can almost be unnoticeable so I'll put a piece of white printer paper under my jar and monitor the color while its brewing. If it is cloudy/murky or dark....its not a good batch. Check the electrodes every 15-20 min or so for burnt particulates and clean them off frequently to avoid the muddy cloudy mixes. If you get the occasional floater in the mix, you can strain it through a coffee filter and into another clean jar.
20190905_092751.jpg Are those not nanas forming? It was accully outside for the first 2 weeks of applying silver and moved it in to 12/12 the other day. I found some light pollution
Anyway, the dark murky turned out to be the crud left on the side of the bottle. The bottle on the left is the one I made with about 70v and is I think 28ppm (rose alittle while sitting), the right side is the solution I made last night, 6 hours, 3x9V batteries and cleaned the silver every 20 minutes. I know you said don't worry about ppm, but it is only 17ppm. Thinking I should do another 6 hours.

Screenshot_20190905-093230.jpg
 

EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
My colloidal silver turned dark amber within 24hrs, do I still use it??

That should be fine for Cannabis flipping.

View attachment 4389938 Are those not nanas forming? It was accully outside for the first 2 weeks of applying silver and moved it in to 12/12 the other day. I found some light pollution
Anyway, the dark murky turned out to be the crud left on the side of the bottle. The bottle on the left is the one I made with about 70v and is I think 28ppm (rose alittle while sitting), the right side is the solution I made last night, 6 hours, 3x9V batteries and cleaned the silver every 20 minutes. I know you said don't worry about ppm, but it is only 17ppm. Thinking I should do another 6 hours.

View attachment 4389936
Carefully (eyes) check the strength with a laser for a more accurate assessment. PPM is just a guideline to go by, with homemade CS.

The pic is kind of hard to see, so I'm not sure if you have pollen sacs forming. You should ideally get whole pollen sacs, not just stray anthers ("nanners").
How essential is using a glass spray bottle over plastic?
It's not really a big deal unless you are storing it in the bottle for a long time. Statis is the main issue with some plastics, as it can pull the particles to the sides, and mess up the quality, but if you store it in glass, and just use the bottle for applications, it'll be perfectly fine for a few days.
 

HydroRed

Well-Known Member
My colloidal silver turned dark amber within 24hrs, do I still use it??

Thats normal and probably a good batch. If your gonna store it for any period of time, keep it in a dark drawer or closet somewhere no light will get to it. Dont refrigerate it, just normal room temps. No better way to find out how good it is than to use it :bigjoint:
 

kev1968

Active Member
I wouldn't trust a CS solution purchased online. Either make it yourself or use STS. If the plant is flowering normally like those are then the reversal didn't take. They should look like these. No pistils just balls.
Dude I need to do what you did to that plant! I don't know how strong my cs is. I made it last night, 6 hours, 3x9V batteries and cleaned the silver every 20 minutes. How long do you spray before flowering? Do you spray the entire plant? I would like to let the plant pollinate itself (but i do have a 2nd clone) and have some extra pollen to freeze.
The bottle on the right is what I made last night for my 2nd try.


 

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kev1968

Active Member
I need an accurate and comprehensive guide. Growing is not a problem, but making seeds is new for me.
 

kev1968

Active Member
Lots of hairs, and not seeing any balls yet. Keep spraying the bud sites (not the entire plant). Looks like your CS solution is super weak if you've been spraying 2 times a day for 2 weeks. That plant should be well visible with male parts by now if the CS was at a good strength.
I have been continuing with the first batch of CS and this is a little clearer pic.View attachment 4390114
 

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xtsho

Well-Known Member

Looks like you made a good batch



I've used a plastic spray bottle and it did the job. Good question though, now I'm wondering if glass might be better in some ways.
Plastic is fine for a short time. Longer storage should be in glass.
 

Rob Roy

Well-Known Member
Looks like you made a good batch





Plastic is fine for a short time. Longer storage should be in glass.
Over the years I've made a few batches using a home made nine volt battery contraption and silver discs that worked with varying success. Lately I've been using the store bought colloidal silver with better success. Got some colloidal silver that's been stored in the dark, about a year old, might use it this coming week in a side by side comparison with my first try at silver thiosulfate mix

I agree glass sounds like a better idea for storage, guessing less foreign particulate contamination of the colloidal silver in glass?
 
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