hlg 550 grow room

[a mongo frog]

back down the last 3 weeks to kinda mimic fall.

Why do this?

 

[PrometheanLeaf]

Why do this?

Mimicing natural senecense conditions, save electric as well.

 

[DoubleAtotheRON]

Mimicing natural senecense conditions, save electric as well.

True!, I have no hard evidence to prove this, but I believe they will fatten up a bit if you do this because they will realize they are coming to the end of their life cycle, and swell up in a last ditch effort to reproduce (catch pollen).

 

[Nizza]

looking into cost of this.. it is just 4 qb 288 v2 rspecs with a big driver on a heatsync for 1000+$?
you can buy 5 qb 288 v2 135w rpec kits for 1000$ and also have 5 individual lights that you could split between rooms and adjust heights

 

[PrometheanLeaf]

looking into cost of this.. it is just 4 qb 288 v2 rspecs with a big driver on a heatsync for 1000+$?
you can buy 5 qb 288 v2 135w rpec kits for 1000$ and also have 5 individual lights that you could split between rooms and adjust heights

ETL/CSA listings, and warrenty coverage as well and assembly labor and custom heatsink. They offer kits to avoid the cost increase if you don't need those protections.

(Edit: Have you ever had to move 5 lights in a tent? Fuck that shit, let alone trying that in a warehouse setup... I'd rather supercrop the canopy or use plant raisers, just saying.)

 

[a mongo frog]

Mimicing natural senecense conditions, save electric as well.

Wont one lose big time yields? I mean 3 weeks? Do you advise this theory?

 

[PrometheanLeaf]

Wont one lose big time yields? I mean 3 weeks? Do you advise this theory?

I mean, it will depend on how your individual strain responds to it really. So it's really hard for me to say what would be correct advice to give on yeild. In theory it could positively impact terp production because the added low-stress, stressor. It could lower weight pulled, but a 100-200 umol drop for 20 days at the end shouldn't kill your yeild drastically.

 

[DoubleAtotheRON]

Wont one lose big time yields? I mean 3 weeks? Do you advise this theory?

I think it has the opposite affect. When they are coming to the end, they do everything possible if not pollinated by then to get pollinated as they know it's coming into fall (artificially) . And the only way they have to do that is increase the size of their vaginas so to speak. I've seen this happen in bars about 10 min to close.

 

[diggs99]

I think it has the opposite affect. When they are coming to the end, they do everything possible if not pollinated by then to get pollinated as they know it's coming into fall (artificially) . And the only way they have to do that is increase the size of their vaginas so to speak. I've seen this happen in bars about 10 min to close.

LOL

 

[pthobson]

Watch out for the last ditch effort to pollinate themselves...LED all the way!

 

[Nizza]

ETL/CSA listings, and warrenty coverage as well and assembly labor and custom heatsink. They offer kits to avoid the cost increase if you don't need those protections.

(Edit: Have you ever had to move 5 lights in a tent? Fuck that shit, let alone trying that in a warehouse setup... I'd rather supercrop the canopy or use plant raisers, just saying.)

I see what you're saying here but that heat sync that has the 4 boards mounted to it is only 125$
the hlg 550 input max voltage is 480 watts for 1050$
If I bought two of their 260w qb rspecv2 kits for 350$, threw away the heatsyncs and bought the 125$ one, 280w per unit
I would have a 560w light for 725$

I just am trying to wrap my brain around what the other 300$ is for, the fancy driver?
and how come the same boards are taking more voltage on the smaller kits?
if I did this I'd also be pulling up to 80w more? something to do with a big single heat sync instead of multiples?

I am asking these questions not to be difficult but I've purchased my first 288v2 rspec kit and I like it, and will be buying more eventually. With that being said I just wanted to really understand all the differences of these kits

 

[DoubleAtotheRON]

I’ve never built a qb, and I did get a discount for a bulk purchase, but I think the Meanwell driver is worth it. On the HLG, the whole top is a heat sink, and the driver has its own heat sink, and is dimmable.

 

[PrometheanLeaf]

I see what you're saying here but that heat sync that has the 4 boards mounted to it is only 125$
the hlg 550 input max voltage is 480 watts for 1050$
If I bought two of their 260w qb rspecv2 kits for 350$, threw away the heatsyncs and bought the 125$ one, 280w per unit
I would have a 560w light for 725$

I just am trying to wrap my brain around what the other 300$ is for, the fancy driver?
and how come the same boards are taking more voltage on the smaller kits?
if I did this I'd also be pulling up to 80w more? something to do with a big single heat sync instead of multiples?

I am asking these questions not to be difficult but I've purchased my first 288v2 rspec kit and I like it, and will be buying more eventually. With that being said I just wanted to really understand all the differences of these kits

Those listings and certifications are needed in commercial applications as well as most insurance providers need them for proper coverage. If you don't need that....just buy kits, diy or even an assembled kit from like growers house for an extra $80ish.

You say you understand but I don't believe you do.

If I was paying $1000 and wanted a qb 288 option in a 4x4 or 5x5 space id purchase two of these. But I don't need Csa or etl listed fixtures.

https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/products/320w-xl-qb-v2-led-kit

 

[Nizza]

that actually is what I wasn't understanding OK this makes sense now lol thanks.

stoned and missed that part about the listings