QAUNTUM BOARD vs HID heat difference
- Thread starter JungleSlut
- Start date
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
Don't you talk about my momma!
jks
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Hard to say about your individual situation. Things you can play with:Quick question in somewhat relation (sorry but while I have all the legends In the same threadwhy not right)
Is it pointless getting a humidifier to raise humidity if your exhaust is running almost 24\7 when lights on can a humidifier even keep up? Or would it just sit there spinning its wheels?
- Extractingf the bottom and air in on top: keeps humidity and temps a bit higher
- passive extraction and active intakes (havent tried it, only read about it)
- dividing your space in 2 and running them flipflop, pulling air from on tent to another (obviously extracting some air outside)
Its very individual depending on your space, cant really give more info as this is something you had to trybout for yourself.
Edit: ac infinity cloudline fans have a built in controller that you can set to control humidity
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Renfro
Well-Known Member
Thats how my rooms run when vented. I had ventilation before AC so I have that system as a backup still. I used dust shrooms and pulled air from the basement window wells. Running at night I was able to hold temps. More lights = more cfm.
how are you keeping the smell inside with positive air pressure in the room?
Renfro
Well-Known Member
Scrubbers. Can't even smell the plants standing in the room with them.
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
HPS - 40% efficient
640W total : 240W light : 384W heat
LED - 57% efficient
430W total : 245W light : 185W heat
HPS = 11.3° per 60min
LED = 5.2° per 60min
(HPS temp inc) ÷ (LED temp inc) = 2.17
(HPS waste watts) ÷ (LED waste watts) = 2.07
Matching at 95%
According to the data, the temp in the room seems to raise in proportion to the % of heat the fixture produces. I just made a guess as to how effecient the Migro was.
640W total : 240W light : 384W heat
LED - 57% efficient
430W total : 245W light : 185W heat
HPS = 11.3° per 60min
LED = 5.2° per 60min
(HPS temp inc) ÷ (LED temp inc) = 2.17
(HPS waste watts) ÷ (LED waste watts) = 2.07
Matching at 95%
According to the data, the temp in the room seems to raise in proportion to the % of heat the fixture produces. I just made a guess as to how effecient the Migro was.
newguy41410
Well-Known Member
are those your notes?
does this basically mean you can replace a 600-watt HPS with a 400 watt COB LED fixture and expect about the same yield?
JungleSlut
Well-Known Member
Depends. Are you more experienced with HPS or LED?
A grower who's dialed in a 600 watt hps is gonna blow an inexperienced LED user out of the water.
Plants feed differently and react different to the different spectrums.
Are you talking about a cree cob led or an quantum or a blurple
White light, blue light, red light it all.means different things for your plants.
Not all LED fixtures gonna have the same uniform par spread as eachother.
So to answer your question simply No. Too many variables involved
newguy41410
Well-Known Member
No experience, have only used COB LED lighting. I mentioned cob led specifically above. I run 3590s @ 3500k
My first grow ever two years ago I pulled a little over a pound off of one plant. You can see my harvest pics here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/microgrowery/comments/6tqf3c/goji_og_harvest_album_the_chandelier/
Used a little under 600 watts for that plant but am wondering if I could dial the wattage down and get similar yield
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JungleSlut
Well-Known Member
That's up to your plants. If your not supplimenting with co2 and just using air exchange your plants are only gonna be able to use so much light.
How much PAR level your cobs produce when their run at half the wattage is anyone's guess. You could check the data sheet on the cxb 3590s to get half assed idea or get a par meter
Quantum boards and some cob fixtures have potentiometer I think their called to set to full power or half power.
If you turn that dial to 25% , 50%, 75% or 100% is that giving you that EXACT percent of power? Or is the dial a little off?
On my cob led bars with citizen 1212 then have a dial u turn but it gives no percents beside it. It doesnt click..its just a smooth turned from low to high so what it puts out when turn I have zero clue.
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newguy41410
Well-Known Member
I have meanwell HLG 185-1400a drivers powering my COBs. I am able to adjust the intensity and when I do, I plug my lights into a kill-o-watt to measure wattage and set each driver to a specific wattage.
I have been thinking about buying PAR meter for research purposes to maybe get a better idea of how many PAR i should be using or something... but they're so damn expensive.. and I'm not using CO2. Maybe I should just run my current plants at 300 watts and see how they respond at harvest? hmm..
JungleSlut
Well-Known Member
Sounds pike you got a pretty good idea of what your doing already.. if your patient for half a day the rest of the boys will be along shortly with some better advice for you.
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
No those are @JSheeze notes. I just stole them.
https://www.rollitup.org/p/14583793/
It's been the big question for some time. I think they're pretty close. Aside from photon count, there's photon quality. I don't know what SPD is perfect for MJ. PAR is super broad and doesn't include 700+ which is beneficial for sure. It doesn't include under 400, which is also beneficial. Plants may want more IR than LED produce, or maybe the plants want more blue than the HPS produce. Once the spectrum is determined then we can worry about comparing light type to light type, or watt to watt, but right now its up in the air for me as to what type of light is best for MJ. If comparing like SPDs, then I think you can make a yield determination based on effeciency, but if the SPDs are disimilar than comparing photon per watt is less than accurate.
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