ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
One day ppl will start to see I'm not just talking out my ass lol.. One day..
QAUNTUM BOARD vs HID heat difference
- Thread starter JungleSlut
- Start date
growingforfun
Well-Known Member
The differance is I dont care at all about someones graphs. If I put lights in a room and run it for 6 months I'll take my own results over some rando online 8 days a week tyvm.If air exhaust is kept at equal rates, a more effecient light source will create less ambient temp rise than a less effecient light source.
Heat flows from hot to cold, this is important because when you use the entire surface area of the tent to dissipate the light portion of the fixture energy, the temp of the tent walls is small (and also has a 70% greater cp), so it has less of a gradient to flow enegy across before its equalized, which means it flows at a slow rate. When half of the fixtures enegy is kept in a small form factor like a light bulb or ballast, then the gradient is much greater at the fixture-air boundary, and the enegy flows from the hot fixture to the air much faster. On top of this, the tent walls will absorb 5x as much light energy as the air can absorb the hot portion of the fixture, and in a low effecient fixture the hot portion is the greatest % of the enegy output. This means the air increases temp much faster from the hot portion of the light compared to the air temp increase of an equivalent amount of energy that's transferred to the tent walls, plants, pots, water, ect, and then onto the air. The fixture doesn't have a huge surface area connected to the outside air or floor, and has to dissipate a greater % of energy than the tent walls do for a low effecient fixture. Also, the hot portion of the fixture can't dissipate energy to the outside air like the tent walls can, the hot portion of the fixture can only dissipate enegy to the inside of the tent.
A hot fixture is your enemy when talking about ambient temp rise. You have to isolate the air that the hot portion comes into contact with, ie a cool tube, and/or increase exhaust rates to notice the same ambient temp rise as a high effecient fixture. There's a thread on here where someone goes through and explains it with graphs ect, but if you don't understand thermodynamics or at least the basis, you probably will end up disagreeing.
In the most extreme cases it's maybe an effeciency delta of 20%, so while there is a huge difference when comparing the total ambient air temp increase due to the % energy being transferred to the tent air vs the total ambient air temp increase due to the % energy being transferred to the tent wall (considering equal energies applied), both those types of fixtures will still produce a hot portion, so altogether it makes a noticeable difference but theres no free lunch, you'll still have to vent QBs under most circumstances..
One day ppl will start to see I'm not just talking out my ass lol.. One day..
If there is ANY differance AT ALL I've failed to notice it. In my areas a watt is a watt heat wise. Been at this a cool second now an to me, my own results are what matter. I can agree led has gotten to a point less watts are needed to run a room, but a watt is still a watt.
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
If you're trying to cut your heat, I'd run 8 QBs to replace the 600w HID. 8 will run cooler and be more effecient. You'd not have to use heatsinks at 75w per QB, just a bit of framing for support.
The drivers give off a decent portion of the heat, so mount them outside the grow.
Without heatsinks Alibaba QBs are cheap, I think you can get 8 for close to the same price as 4 with heatsinks when shipping is included.
EDIT:
Lol and to appease the knucklehead, you wouldn't have to turn them up full blast if you didn't want too... Smh
Last edited:
growingforfun
Well-Known Member
Wtf kinda logic is replacing 600 watts of hps with 600 watts of led. Everything you say is now highly suspicious.
ANC
Well-Known Member
I did not read that he would only cover as much canopy as before in it, only that he would stick to just using 600W.
Due to light losses in reflectors, there is like a 30-40% light loss in virtually any of the standard HID fixtures. So you'd reasonably replace 1kW with about 600W to 700W (2x320W driver)
I'f you were to do an open bulb vertical hanging vertical grow, the HID can still hand out a can of woopass.
Due to light losses in reflectors, there is like a 30-40% light loss in virtually any of the standard HID fixtures. So you'd reasonably replace 1kW with about 600W to 700W (2x320W driver)
I'f you were to do an open bulb vertical hanging vertical grow, the HID can still hand out a can of woopass.
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
- Green is good
- SPD matters
- Effeciency effects ambient temps
- LED should be used for UV
- UVI should be used to measure UVB
- VPD is often misdiagnosed for poor SPD
This is all stuff I've been saying for sometime and all of it was very unpopular when I started saying it. Some is just now starting to catch on. If you are someone that doesn't believe me now, I get it, I can understand your skeptism, but maybe youll see some of these less popular things start to become the norm in the future and maybe youll understand my disappointment when I go through the data and the math to explain and show what's going on only to get people that presumably didn't follow the explanation calling it false..
If you've compared equal wattages of LED to HID and found the heat rise the same then it means that your effeciencies were very similar or all other factors were not maintained. This ain't my first picnic either..
Last edited:
JungleSlut
Well-Known Member
Thanks @ANC for your responses
Thanks @ChiefRunningPhist for your in depth responses, graphs and science you try to provide. You can tell you actually give a fuck If someone walks away better educated.
Thanks @ChiefRunningPhist for your in depth responses, graphs and science you try to provide. You can tell you actually give a fuck If someone walks away better educated.
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
I do man, I hate misinformation, and no sweat. Many have done the same for me on here..
what happens with the energy in the light? where does it go?
SPLFreak808
Well-Known Member
Read up on non-photochemical quenching for c3's, they don't release all of its photon input as heat, so sometimes having 100% of your light aiming down can help, to a point.
JungleSlut
Well-Known Member
Nice name my dude. I got something to show u quick..completely off topic. But hold up a sec.and I'll post
JungleSlut
Well-Known Member
JungleSlut
Well-Known Member
hillbill
Well-Known Member
So if you are running an air cooled reflector, where does it exhaust?
growingforfun
Well-Known Member
Whoa slow down there on the caffeine an adderall bud. All I said is recommending replacing 600 watts hps with 600 watts led is suspect af
The ambient room temperature that all my tents are in always reads between 64f to 68f. I built a cooling chamber in the ground, it is 8 feet in the ground, and in that chamber sits a ABS type 55 gallon drum that is filled with a antifreeze mixed liquid, that continuously pumps that liquid from the bottom of that drum up to a vented radiated cooling system, and the whole system uses batteries and 5 235watt solar panels. I made the cooling system that is just one part of my complete environment controller. The radiated cooling system I made up from a old volvo radiator and fan combo. And it helps keeps my room with the tents in at between 64f to 68f year round. Yes there are other parts of the system that control heat and humidity, but that radiated cooling system keeps the cooling part always in check! Anyway, on to your question... all my reflector intakes are merv 4 filtered and the air that gets sucked into each sealed reflector goes into the reflector @ 64f - 66f and the air that comes out of the sealed reflector before hitting a 440CFM fan that is also battery and solar powered normally reads between 70f to 72f, and that air gets vented directly to the outside.