Need 2nd opinions!

Fupaslayer

Well-Known Member
I’ve gotten some help two weeks ago with my problem but thing just keep getting worse+ my buds are so skinny and long! Im just entering week six of flower with my first auto attempt in coco.. I’m using emerald harvest Cali pro two part nutes at full strength, 315 cmh & lm301b 288QB. All my girls in coco(fem seeds) are doing fine with all of them having fat buds except this auto! I was being told it was a mag problem but Im guessing I was misled I’m thinking it’s a cal problem. If anyone has experience with Cali pro do y’all think I should double up on cal-mag with week 6 recommendation? I only got a leaf to take a pic of because I didn’t have my camera on me and my lights were about to go off or I would of got better/more pics. Also it’s the top that is most affected the middle and bottom ain’t to bad+ the top leaves feel kinda rubbery is the only way I can really describe it
 

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jondamon

Well-Known Member
I’ve gotten some help two weeks ago with my problem but thing just keep getting worse+ my buds are so skinny and long! Im just entering week six of flower with my first auto attempt in coco.. I’m using emerald harvest Cali pro two part nutes at full strength, 315 cmh & lm301b 288QB. All my girls in coco(fem seeds) are doing fine with all of them having fat buds except this auto! I was being told it was a mag problem but Im guessing I was misled I’m thinking it’s a cal problem. If anyone has experience with Cali pro do y’all think I should double up on cal-mag with week 6 recommendation? I only got a leaf to take a pic of because I didn’t have my camera on me and my lights were about to go off or I would of got better/more pics. Also it’s the top that is most affected the middle and bottom ain’t to bad+ the top leaves feel kinda rubbery is the only way I can really describe it

Has it progressed to this leaf or was this an effected leaf prior to treatment?

Any effected leaves will usually not recover unless you catch it early. Such as Mg caught in time stars interveinal yellowing. Catch it early and apply Mg and the yellowing greens back up.

Mg deficiency usually starts lower down on the plant on the older growth.

This doesn’t look like a classic Ca deficiency to me though either.

Have you ever tested your runoff EC and compared it to your input EC?

Although it’s not a perfect way to measure your rootzone EC it’s a good judge as to what’s going on.

0.4 EC difference in ether direction and you need to adjust.

-0.4 or more EC. then increase your nute strength next feed by 0.2EC

+0.4 or more EC then reduce your nute strength next feed by 0.2EC.

give a couple of feedings at that level and retest.

Your source water!!

What was it’s starting EC?

Most nutrient manufacturers assume your starting EC would be 0.2-0.4 to be considered normal.

If it’s below this EC you should add Ca and Mg until you reach that EC. And you should continue this using your nutes each time to make that water start at 0.2-0.4.

Test input versus output EC and test your source water EC and report back.

What pH have you been adjusting your mix at?
 

Fupaslayer

Well-Known Member
Has it progressed to this leaf or was this an effected leaf prior to treatment?

Any effected leaves will usually not recover unless you catch it early. Such as Mg caught in time stars interveinal yellowing. Catch it early and apply Mg and the yellowing greens back up.

Mg deficiency usually starts lower down on the plant on the older growth.

This doesn’t look like a classic Ca deficiency to me though either.

Have you ever tested your runoff EC and compared it to your input EC?

Although it’s not a perfect way to measure your rootzone EC it’s a good judge as to what’s going on.

0.4 EC difference in ether direction and you need to adjust.

-0.4 or more EC. then increase your nute strength next feed by 0.2EC

+0.4 or more EC then reduce your nute strength next feed by 0.2EC.

give a couple of feedings at that level and retest.

Your source water!!

What was it’s starting EC?

Most nutrient manufacturers assume your starting EC would be 0.2-0.4 to be considered normal.

If it’s below this EC you should add Ca and Mg until you reach that EC. And you should continue this using your nutes each time to make that water start at 0.2-0.4.

Test input versus output EC and test your source water EC and report back.

What pH have you been adjusting your mix at?
This leaf has been effected for awhile about 3 weeks but noticed it been getting worse... my ph goes in at 5.9 and I don’t use ec my ppm of water is always under 50 to start and I always use cal-mag Cali pro brand and these last two weeks have been feeding in the 900 area but I’ll do these test see what happens and I’ll let you know
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
Are you adding cal mag to your source water up to about 220ppm (500scale) 300ppm(700scale)

I haven’t raised above 1.4EC (720/1000) during veg and 1.2EC (610/850) during flower.

More often than not I’m right around 1.0EC(500/700) for most of the grow.

I do add additional Ca and Mg as required.

Do you calibrate your meters often also?
 

Fupaslayer

Well-Known Member
I don’t know what you mean by 500/700 scale I’ve been trying to learn more about stuff like that with nutes and I usually double check my ph with the drops to make sure my meter is reading correctly
 

Fupaslayer

Well-Known Member
Seems rather high.

You could have high salinity issues in your coco.

I would take a guess and say your runoff is most likely going to be +1900
Lol I’ll let you know tomorrow what runoff reads but ima dilute my mixture down to about 700 for a couple days and see how that goes.
 

Fupaslayer

Well-Known Member
No worries.

Just as an FYI ive grown in coco since 2009 when I started by treating it like soil lol. Water water feed lol.

So I’ve learned a fair bit over the last decade as I still grow in coco. ;-)
So you use to water water feed or that’s how you do it now? Because I feed every time and been thinking I should at least feed water feed water to save Some nutes
 

Sobeit

Member
Indeed need more Cal, don't go overboard or you will lock out other nutrients. Check pH before anything though.

Your cannabis plant may show signs of a calcium deficiency if the pH at the roots is too high or too low. First step is to ensure that you have the correct pH for your growth medium.
  • In soil, calcium is best absorbed by the roots in the 6.2 – 7.0 pH range (in soil, it’s generally recommended to keep the pH between 6.0 – 7.0, but calcium specifically tends to be best absorbed above 6.2)

  • In hydro, calcium is best absorbed by the roots in the 6.2 – 6.5 pH range (in hydro, it’s generally recommended to keep the pH between 5.5 – 6.5, but calcium specifically tends to be best absorbed above 6.2)
If you suspect your growing cannabis plant has a calcium deficiency, flush your system with clean, pH’d water that contains a regular dose of cannabis-friendly nutrients that includes calcium. This will remove any nutrient salts that may be affecting the uptake of calcium and help restore pH to the proper levels.
 

Fupaslayer

Well-Known Member
If you have been feeding Cal, you most likely have a pH lockout.
Ya I always use cal-mag and with my high Ppms I’ve been using I’m thinking I may have a lot of salt build up causing ph unbalancing in my coco so tomorrow I’m thinking of flushing with 1/4 strength(about 250ppm) till I get a lot of runoff and then add about a half gallon of about 3/4 strength (700 ppm) to replace nutes after the flush. What do you think about this plan and cal mag will be used during both 1/4 and 3/4
 

Fupaslayer

Well-Known Member
Also what ratio of cal-mag do y’all recommend to K I’ve read above 2 and below 10 is good but would like to hear what y’all use.
 

Sobeit

Member
Ya I always use cal-mag and with my high Ppms I’ve been using I’m thinking I may have a lot of salt build up causing ph unbalancing in my coco so tomorrow I’m thinking of flushing with 1/4 strength(about 250ppm) till I get a lot of runoff and then add about a half gallon of about 3/4 strength (700 ppm) to replace nutes after the flush. What do you think about this plan and cal mag will be used during both 1/4 and 3/4
For sure flush it, until your ppm is low.

Give full recommended dose of Cal-Mag brand that you are using, fill the rest ppm with nutrients to where you want it to be.
 
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jondamon

Well-Known Member
So you use to water water feed or that’s how you do it now? Because I feed every time and been thinking I should at least feed water feed water to save Some nutes

Yes I used to water water feed.

Which is not good for coco.

It’s better to feed a weaker nute mix more frequently than it is to use plain water.

Plain water in coco plays havoc with the CEC and can actually cause negative effects like reverse osmosis of the rootzone.

Always use nutrients with coco.

And in hydro calcium ideal pH is actually 5.4-5.8 for uptake and Mg available ph is 5.8 to nearly 9.

So there is a fine line between the 2 where you can end up sitting where the slightest swing in ph can cause one to not be available.

If I want to allow more calcium to be absorbed I feed at 5.5ph.

If I want more magnesium to be available I go up to 6ph.

This is why most people say to stay at 5.8 in hydro but allow your ph to swing between 5.5-6.2 to allow all the nutrients to be available during the swing.

But when you hand water you can’t allow that swing without manually Doing it yourself.

I feed every day by the time I’m in the height of flowering.

During veg every other day.

Some people swear by multiple feedings daily.

You should be using nutes every time you water.
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
Also what ratio of cal-mag do y’all recommend to K I’ve read above 2 and below 10 is good but would like to hear what y’all use.
And as for this I like

Ca 3-5%
Mg 2-3%
K 3-5%

When growing in coco.

Coco can hold on to Ca and K and not release it back unless plenty of runoff 20% is achieved.

This is why runoff is very important in coco unless you are using a very low PPM nute mix.
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
Indeed need more Cal, don't go overboard or you will lock out other nutrients. Check pH before anything though.

Your cannabis plant may show signs of a calcium deficiency if the pH at the roots is too high or too low. First step is to ensure that you have the correct pH for your growth medium.
  • In soil, calcium is best absorbed by the roots in the 6.2 – 7.0 pH range (in soil, it’s generally recommended to keep the pH between 6.0 – 7.0, but calcium specifically tends to be best absorbed above 6.2)

  • In hydro, calcium is best absorbed by the roots in the 6.2 – 6.5 pH range (in hydro, it’s generally recommended to keep the pH between 5.5 – 6.5, but calcium specifically tends to be best absorbed above 6.2)
If you suspect your growing cannabis plant has a calcium deficiency, flush your system with clean, pH’d water that contains a regular dose of cannabis-friendly nutrients that includes calcium. This will remove any nutrient salts that may be affecting the uptake of calcium and help restore pH to the proper levels.

Not trying to be a dick here but how much have you learned about coco growing since your first grow only started in July 2019 and you’re using an LED shop light and fox farm soil?
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
For sure flush it, until your ppm is low.

Give full recommended dose of Cal-Mag brand that you are using, fill the rest ppm with nutrients to where you want it to be.

Please don’t listen to this.

If you are flushing coco you only need to “flush” with a nutrient mix until your runoff pretty much matches the input solution.

Too much of a salinity change in the rootzone of a coco grown plant can cause rootzone shock due to the salinity change being quite drastic.

I personally never flush my plants with different salinity nutrients.

I lower my salinity gradually to not shock the roots.

Some of what you are saying is correct but what you are spouting about is what’s easily findable on the net. Not what actually happens in practicality.
 
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