AC reciculation vs exchange
- Thread starter BCmadman
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BigHornBuds
Well-Known Member
You want a mini split. The size will depend on how many watts of lighting & if you plan to run a burner vs bottles .
Renfro
Well-Known Member
Dual hose portable are supposed to use air from outside to cool the condenser coil and blow it back outside.
Single hose units take air from inside to cool the condenser coil and then shoot it outside.
A ductless minsplit is what you will require if making a grow with more than two lights.
Single hose units take air from inside to cool the condenser coil and then shoot it outside.
A ductless minsplit is what you will require if making a grow with more than two lights.
Most likely just a 5x5 or 6x6 with one nice led was thinking the fluence spydrx plus and with a burner cause I have one depending on how cheap it is to run a bottle
Ok perfect ya that's exactly what I was looking for so I guess dual hose portable it is so I dont suck out my C02 and keep a sealed room
Thanks everyone for the replies much appreciated
Do you have the space and light set up yet. Another guy posted his build with 1400 watts of led and was struggling to even get his temps up high enough. I'd honestly just exhaust a grow that size unless it worked out that you didn't need ac. Here is one reason why, AC takes more energy than another light or two in most cases. C02 only ups your yield by 25% max and that's if your dialed in. Where as if you take that energy you were going to use for ac and add more light your yield potential doubles or triples depending how many more lights you add.
This all assuming your grow is in climate controlled house or building, if not then dual hose ac or mini split. Mini split being the best option as those dual hose still leak some air there is a thread on here about sealing one up better if thats what u have to use.
This all assuming your grow is in climate controlled house or building, if not then dual hose ac or mini split. Mini split being the best option as those dual hose still leak some air there is a thread on here about sealing one up better if thats what u have to use.
Havent bought anything yet just getting an idea of everything I need and am going to price it before I buy. This will be inside my house. I wanted to make it a gucci setup so maybe AC/Co2 and more lights ? I will absolutely find a way to keep it up to temp. The other guy who posted about having troubles keeping his room temp up should just add a heater no ?
Only add a heater if your maxed on watts per sq ft. Lights are more efficient and put off heat. So just add more lights. He has it figured out now I forget what he did was gonna add another light I believe. But what I'm saying is he could effectively use c02 without an ac so it's possible that with only one fixture you can just add c02 and not have to worry about the AC, I guess it would just depends on your ambient temps after you get your lights up.
@diggs99 how did u end up getting your temps up in your room? And do you think one Spyder fixture would put out enough heat to warrant buying an ac.
@diggs99 how did u end up getting your temps up in your room? And do you think one Spyder fixture would put out enough heat to warrant buying an ac.
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
You will want an adjustable fan like the Hyperfan (8"fan 75 watts). I have that hooked to a thermostat/hemostat fan controller. Last thing you want is an AC for this (12,000btu portable 1200+watts, minisplit 12,000 btu 700watts and no smell loss). If you need extra heat, a dehumidifier (70pint 750watts) is the best way to add it for winter time.
diggs99
Well-Known Member
I ended up putting my spare 315 cmh in the room and also set rh a little lower on the dehuey, so that's running more and giving off heat.
7x14 room
960 watts of led ( last light isn't built yet)
315 watts of cmh
60 pint dehuey
Temps set at 85 on controller and my exhaust barely kicks in.
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
You could add a tank and CO2 ppm controller to the mix. The tank should last over a month.
I think this is prob your best bet, having ac is nice if you need to control heat but one led fixture not putting off much heat, and you prob won't have to vent much so I like the idea of just getting a controller that will vent if needed and it will shut off the c02 while venting.
I have a crossfire dual room monitor from previous years and an 8 burner which I know is way to big for a 5x5 single light but i have it and its free. What are the cost associated with a tank and regulator setup ? can I still use the crossfire monitor ?
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
Yeah, the controller is perfect. The tank and valve you can find cheap used, but if you need new, about $200 for tank and gauge.
Herbrewisralight
Active Member
Unfortunately I learned this the hard way. I have twelve leds and my whynther dual hose doesn’t do shit to cool my room. I wasted 500 dollars on that. I had to buy a 24000btu minisplit for 1k. I hope this works. Especially since I’ll be using my grow room to dry as well and need to get the temps down to 60.
Renfro
Well-Known Member
I have a dual hose portable in my veg room, it's 14,000 BTU/hr. It effectively cools two 1000 watt DE CMH, one 1000 watt SE MH and a 480 watt COB LED. It does a good job with all that which surprised me. May I ask why you need your temps down to 60? Is it for VPD because of the low RH%? If so have you considered adding an evaporative cooler to help raise the RH%
Hey Renfro!
I dont need my temps down to 60 per say. I just need a way to keep the proper climate in my room at or around 80f. So if my LED wont keep the room temp up then I'll add a small heater on a thermostat and if it gets to warm I'll have a small 6-12000btu portable or window AC to bring it back down
Is there a better way to do this ? And I'm not sure what VPD is
My room will have a dehum aswell
Renfro
Well-Known Member
Well someone did a write up on how to modify a portable dual hose AC in order to seal it up really good since it was leaking some of the CO2. You might find it on here with a search. A mini split is the most energy efficient option of course.
If you have to actually add heat then I don't see why you would need an AC. If your heater is controlled with a thermostat that is reliable then it shouldn't get the room too hot.
I would setup the light and let it run for at least 24 hours straight and monitor the temps. It can take a long time for all the surfaces to heat up and you can see the actual temp rise in the room so give it 24 hours. Run your dehumidifier too since it makes heat. If the room doesn't get into a temperature runaway situation then you may not need the AC. You definitely don't want a heater adding heat that an AC is going to have to remove.
Having a heater can be handy for lights off temps too if you have cool ambient temps like say a basement in the winter.
Herbrewisralight
Active Member
Well I want my night temps to get in the 60s towards the end of flowering tiger those autumn colors to show more. I also will be using this room to dry at 60 degrees and 60% humidity for 7-10 days
Renfro
Well-Known Member
Well when drying the lights wont be on and when you are reducing the temps during ripening a dimmer light setting is also recommended.