Setting up a new room 7`x14`

Renfro

Well-Known Member
It's all about leaf surface temps. LED doesnt have the infrared so the leaves don't get as warm. Thats why you need to run warmer rooms with LED. If you go by leaf surface temps and use a VPD chart you will probably be in the mid 80's. I am sure some of the LED guys will know a lot more, I am just starting to learn LED.
 

diggs99

Well-Known Member
It's all about leaf surface temps. LED doesnt have the infrared so the leaves don't get as warm. Thats why you need to run warmer rooms with LED. If you go by leaf surface temps and use a VPD chart you will probably be in the mid 80's. I am sure some of the LED guys will know a lot more, I am just starting to learn LED.
Ya @Randomblame shared some very good info for led growing and vpd chart.

Final decisions have been made, no ac or co2 for time being. Am looking to buy a good controller for temp/humidity and also a good timer for my 1440w of lights to run on.

I should have everything I need now. Just a matter of putting it all together and dialling the room in.

Question. I notice most of those controllers are 240v, is there a reason for this? I don't have any 240v plugs at my disposal, can install one if I need too tho. Well I'll get my electrician to install it lol
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
Well you may as well get the controller that can do CO2, it's a little more money but when you decide to add co2 it will be ready to go.

Most lighting controllers are 240 volt simply because you can run more lighting on a circuit that way.

Best way to install most controllers is to hardwire to a breaker using the proper gauge wire.
 

diggs99

Well-Known Member
Well you may as well get the controller that can do CO2, it's a little more money but when you decide to add co2 it will be ready to go.

Most lighting controllers are 240 volt simply because you can run more lighting on a circuit that way.

Best way to install most controllers is to hardwire to a breaker using the proper gauge wire.
Ok I can have him do that for me too no trouble. the 240v cuts amperage in half correct? So my lights would be using half the amps on 240 compared to 120

I think I'm gonna go the cheaper route for now and just grab an inkbird or something similar to run my exhaust and humidifier. When I'm ready to go with ac and co2 I'll also be ready to spend the 500-600 on the proper controller.

I also found that blulab ec/ppm/ph controller, I eventually want it, but it's 1k cdn so it's gonna be a little while lol
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
You can always just add a standalone CO2 controller later. No need to replace what you already have so long as it's doing the job.

Yeah 240 cuts the amperage in half. So you can run twice the wattage on a given gauge of wire. Watts = Volts x Amps

With a good reservoir size and flood and drain, you won't have to worry about the reservoir much, I think a dosing pump kit is a bit overkill unless you were going to be gone for an extended period.

When I ran flood and drain on a large scale I had mine setup with a float valve in the reservoir. This was hooked to a RO water filter via a solenoid valve. This valve was on a timer so it would only top off the reservoir when the tray would be fully drained into the reservoir. This kept my reservoirs topped off automatically. It made it pretty easy to maintain but overkill unless you have a lot of reservoirs or can't be around for longer periods of time. This type of top off setup with a dosing pump could allow one to be away for a long time if dialed in. Back then I noticed I used about 5 gallons a day for every 1000 watter with plants that were at their peak.
 

TintEastwood

Well-Known Member
When it comes to controllers, I learned a few things the hard way.

I started with no AC or Co2.

Purchased a Titan Hades 2 for lighting timer. Handles up to 1200 watts, set it and forget it. All good.

Purchased an Autopilot Greenhouse Master Controller.
Has outlets for...
1. Cooling. 2. Humidify/dehumify 3. Heat 4. Co2.

THINKING I would be able to control my Window AC unit and Dehumidifier. To maintain the temp/humidity.

Wrong. My AC and Dehuey both have compressors that are not designed to have power turned on and off repeatedly as needed by the controller to maintain desired temo/rh.

So currently I'm only using the Co2
and Heat outputs on my $500 controller.

I have a humidity fogger that works great connected to the Autopilot. But I dont use it often.

If I had to do it over again I would probably buy a controller that only does Co2. Saving $300 to use for something else...like a chiller. Lol

20190511_093949.jpg

@Renfro is doing some cool stuff with his environment. Much more advanced than my lil 4x8x8.

20190518_094250.jpg
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
It would even be possible to wire one up as an external plugin module. You could even have it control power from another circuit so the load of the AC and dehumidifier can be split.
 

TintEastwood

Well-Known Member
It would even be possible to wire one up as an external plugin module. You could even have it control power from another circuit so the load of the AC and dehumidifier can be split.
No load issue, it's the short cycling on and off by the relays for the AC and dehuey.
And for now both are working very well stand-alone.
I have the AC on a Sensibo wifi.
https://sensibo.com/
 

diggs99

Well-Known Member
You can always just add a standalone CO2 controller later. No need to replace what you already have so long as it's doing the job.

Yeah 240 cuts the amperage in half. So you can run twice the wattage on a given gauge of wire. Watts = Volts x Amps

With a good reservoir size and flood and drain, you won't have to worry about the reservoir much, I think a dosing pump kit is a bit overkill unless you were going to be gone for an extended period.

When I ran flood and drain on a large scale I had mine setup with a float valve in the reservoir. This was hooked to a RO water filter via a solenoid valve. This valve was on a timer so it would only top off the reservoir when the tray would be fully drained into the reservoir. This kept my reservoirs topped off automatically. It made it pretty easy to maintain but overkill unless you have a lot of reservoirs or can't be around for longer periods of time. This type of top off setup with a dosing pump could allow one to be away for a long time if dialed in. Back then I noticed I used about 5 gallons a day for every 1000 watter with plants that were at their peak.
No the bluelab controller i looked at never had the dosing option. it was basically the lesser version that just monitors the reservoir for ec,ppm,ph and temps.

I am using tap water, up till now i have been hand watering and letting the tap water sit out for 24 hours , i would like to have auto res top ups like you mention, but would need something to dechlorinate the water?

Altho i have been told by many guys that chlorine dont bother plants, ive still been letting it evap off
 

TintEastwood

Well-Known Member
No the bluelab controller i looked at never had the dosing option. it was basically the lesser version that just monitors the reservoir for ec,ppm,ph and temps.

I am using tap water, up till now i have been hand watering and letting the tap water sit out for 24 hours , i would like to have auto res top ups like you mention, but would need something to dechlorinate the water?

Altho i have been told by many guys that chlorine dont bother plants, ive still been letting it evap off
No the bluelab controller i looked at never had the dosing option. it was basically the lesser version that just monitors the reservoir for ec,ppm,ph and temps.

I am using tap water, up till now i have been hand watering and letting the tap water sit out for 24 hours , i would like to have auto res top ups like you mention, but would need something to dechlorinate the water?

Altho i have been told by many guys that chlorine dont bother plants, ive still been letting it evap off
My hydro shop buddy's solution. He has 32 gallon barrel of tap water bubbling 24/7.
 

diggs99

Well-Known Member
Man i cant even barely understand what you guys are talking about lol

baby steps i guess, reading your posts often lets me know just how new/oblivious to this game i am....but im learning lol.
Impressive guys

TE, I plan to run the room without Co2 for a bit, so was looking at just buying a temp and humidity controller to run my exhaust and humidifier. When disposable income increases again i will look at installing co2 and hopefully by then also have a mini split purchased.

according to randomblame, Using the lights ill be building and in my setup, he says a good exhaust fan and humidifier attached to a decent controller will keep the room within the #s on the VPD chart that i want.
 

diggs99

Well-Known Member
My hydro shop buddy's solution. He has 32 gallon barrel of tap water bubbling 24/7.
Thats also an idea, keep 25-30 gallons in a side reservoir for top ups. Could even run the automation as renfro mentioned from the top up res to the main res as needed.

@Renfro i dont plan to add anything other than the nutes im using, All General hydroponics line flora mirco/bloom/calimagic/amor si
So as you say, maybe i should stop worrying about it as much as i have been
 

TintEastwood

Well-Known Member
Man i cant even barely understand what you guys are talking about lol

baby steps i guess, reading your posts often lets me know just how new/oblivious to this game i am....but im learning lol.
Impressive guys

TE, I plan to run the room without Co2 for a bit, so was looking at just buying a temp and humidity controller to run my exhaust and humidifier. When disposable income increases again i will look at installing co2 and hopefully by then also have a mini split purchased.
To your advantage...You are doing more planning than I did. I bring up my experience hoping it will help.
 
Top