Whatever happened to...

InTheValley

Well-Known Member
man, Ive been hittin on the Special Sauce, CBD, I could care less if i ever smoke high grade pot to be honest. $30 for 7 grams, and its pretty dam decent. I smoke a raw rolled joint of it, and im good literally for 4-5 hours, and i used to smoke a good 12 J's days of fire high grade shit. After this run, Im running Cherry Wine CBD, and use the High grade for weekends or special, "shit, i need fkd up today" events,lol..

The hell with those ciggs, the brain is fully nicotined out after 3 hits, did you know that? Take 3 hits, cut it off. then next week, take 2 good puffs for the session, then the week after that, take 1 good drag, then Youll be done.

Nicotine is very addictive, but just for a few days. Just like cannabis, its the routine that is most additive, and not the plant itsself. Once you can break from the routine, and get thru the nic withdrawal, your good to go. Heck, puff a cigar if you have to when you need a hit, or a "escape"..
 

charsi420

Active Member
I don't smoke cigarettes but no other option when it comes to rolling j's. Not all the way there yet but if all goes well, pretty sure it's going to be infinitely better than the popcorn crap some of my friends end up getting through the DW.
 

InTheValley

Well-Known Member
ok, I see, You smoke spliffs? weed/tobacco mix i take it? Good deal on the no smoking ciggs, ! You have any pics of your grow?
 

Gquebed

Well-Known Member
I'm using the scales people are most comfortable with.

I need to be in a Canadian...

Ppm sux. Use EC. Start around EC 1.5, adjust as needed.

For CO2, 1200ppm is fine.

Epsom salt, in spite of appearances, is mostly water and affects EC less than you might think. 1 gram per gallon is a good place to start.
So how to use epsom salts? Aside from a gram a gallon?

Im using GH 3 part flora now. And cal mag with RO.

Do i cut back on cal mag or anything else. Or just add it in my usual mix?
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Haha, I haven't been able to get it down to that even at lights out, currently at 75 (lights out), AC is on almost 24/7. Got the AC serviced today and I see a noticeable difference, so for the next week I'm going to try and lower the lights on temp to 25-26 and night by a couple of degrees too. Hopefully the degradation that I think has happened can be built back before the chop.




No, two 560 LM561C LED 3000k boards with HLG-240 drivers.
Do you run your lights at night? One good way to keep temperatures in check is to run lights at night.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
So how to use epsom salts? Aside from a gram a gallon?

Im using GH 3 part flora now. And cal mag with RO.

Do i cut back on cal mag or anything else. Or just add it in my usual mix?
Cal-mag = calcium nitrate + magnesium nitrate

The reason it greens things up is because of all the nitrate.

Look at your nutrient bottles. One of them is going to be calcium nitrate. Use that as your calcium source.

Substitute magnesium sulfate, aka epsom salt, for the Cal-mag. The bonus is sulfate which really helps with resin, terpenes and aroma.

I use dry nutrient salts like greenhouse professionals because it's cheaper and I know exactly what I'm getting. The sexy labeled water bottle sellers are awfully coy about what's in their mixes because there's almost always a bunch of shit you don't need, emulsifiers, preservatives and often hormones and PGRs.

I use a mix from www.hydro-gardens.com that's 5-11-26 plus micros. It's designed to be used in conjunction with calcium nitrate- 50lb bags of which cost me less than $30, just to give you an idea of how much dry nutrients can save you. They also make a 4-20-36 plus micros mix that's very popular with dispensaries in Colorado. The ratios for that are different.

The ratio I use is basically 3 parts mix, 2 parts CaNi and 1 part epsom salt, by weight. I mix the calcium nitrate separately and add each to the reservoir already partially full so as to avoid high local concentrations of salts reacting with one another.

I use this same mix in veg and in bloom. It's cheap enough to just dump and refill with fresh solution on a regular basis.

The order of progression is to add the dissolved nutrients to a partially full reservoir, dilute to desired solution strength and adjust pH last.
 

charsi420

Active Member
Do you run your lights at night? One good way to keep temperatures in check is to run lights at night.
Yes, big mistake. Was cold when the grow started so it didn't matter, started warming up and I should have changed the schedule when I flipped but for convenience left it as it was. Later I was too far in to risk hermie'g due to another dark period or switching it over to night in increments. Next one onward, definitely lights on at night. Won't be a major difference though, about 2-3 degrees to play with if I switch to a night cycle. Still something is better than nothing.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Yes, big mistake. Was cold when the grow started so it didn't matter, started warming up and I should have changed the schedule when I flipped but for convenience left it as it was. Later I was too far in to risk hermie'g due to another dark period or switching it over to night in increments. Next one onward, definitely lights on at night. Won't be a major difference though, about 2-3 degrees to play with if I switch to a night cycle. Still something is better than nothing.
It's easy to switch your grow cycle, just leave the lights on for an extra 12 hours.
 

charsi420

Active Member
It's easy to switch your grow cycle, just leave the lights on for an extra 12 hours.
That's what I was planning to do but just didn't feel right doing it as if either would hermie, I'd blame the extra dark period and feel I shot myself in the foot...probably a little OCD...
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
That's what I was planning to do but just didn't feel right doing it as if either would hermie, I'd blame the extra dark period and feel I shot myself in the foot...probably a little OCD...
No, you keep the lights on an extra 12 hours, or however long it takes to sync to the new schedule. Plants measure the dark periods, not the daytime.

Your risk of Hermie depends more on strain than environment. Hermie doesn't matter if you're late in the cycle because there isn't enough time for seeds to develop. Hermie matters if you have plants in different states in the same room, as pollen from the late plants can screw up plants early in their bloom cycle.
 

charsi420

Active Member
No, you keep the lights on an extra 12 hours, or however long it takes to sync to the new schedule. Plants measure the dark periods, not the daytime.

Your risk of Hermie depends more on strain than environment. Hermie doesn't matter if you're late in the cycle because there isn't enough time for seeds to develop. Hermie matters if you have plants in different states in the same room, as pollen from the late plants can screw up plants early in their bloom cycle.
Ah, I see, good to know. Thanks.

Was about 4 week into 12/12 (IIRC), just didn't want to introduce a variable that I'd blame if anything went wrong.
 

Thundercat

Well-Known Member
Ah, I see, good to know. Thanks.

Was about 4 week into 12/12 (IIRC), just didn't want to introduce a variable that I'd blame if anything went wrong.
If you are 4 weeks into 12/12 then DO NOT extend your light cycle. Extend the dark cycle. I've done this many times, and there is no adverse effects or even any thing to worry about. You are simply giving them a few extra hours of rest.
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
Yep, I extend the dark cycle if I want to flip from day to night run or vice versa in flower......whatever

It's imperative you keep the root zone well aerated with leds and check your watering habits when coming from hid/outdoor. Yes, the difference was quite large IME. Cheap moisture probe helped me tremendously in the first few runs till I got comfortable running cooler(led) ambient temps..
 
Last edited:

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
If you are 4 weeks into 12/12 then DO NOT extend your light cycle. Extend the dark cycle. I've done this many times, and there is no adverse effects or even any thing to worry about. You are simply giving them a few extra hours of rest.
Plants need energy to make it through the night. They time the darkness to make sure they have enough energy- in the form of sugars- to last through the dark cycle. Extending the dark cycle screws this up.

That's why I recommend extending the day rather than the night.
 

charsi420

Active Member
Had no problem related to overwatering or under-watering. Coco/Perlite - 70/30 mix, 3 gallon fabric pots. Was watering once a day to 20-30% run-off an hour after lights on.
 

charsi420

Active Member
I say, stick to the chosen schedule. If it still hermies or throws nanners, at least one less thing to blame.
 

Thundercat

Well-Known Member
Plants need energy to make it through the night. They time the darkness to make sure they have enough energy- in the form of sugars- to last through the dark cycle. Extending the dark cycle screws this up.

That's why I recommend extending the day rather than the night.
I fully understand how plants grow, been doing this for a long time :). Plants also control their flowering with the hormones produced while in the dark cycle. Extending the light cycle for an extra 12 hours when the plant is already flowering would cause more stress then a long night cycle.

Really if its only once either way should work fine.
 

Gquebed

Well-Known Member
Cal-mag = calcium nitrate + magnesium nitrate

The reason it greens things up is because of all the nitrate.

Look at your nutrient bottles. One of them is going to be calcium nitrate. Use that as your calcium source.

Substitute magnesium sulfate, aka epsom salt, for the Cal-mag. The bonus is sulfate which really helps with resin, terpenes and aroma.

I use dry nutrient salts like greenhouse professionals because it's cheaper and I know exactly what I'm getting. The sexy labeled water bottle sellers are awfully coy about what's in their mixes because there's almost always a bunch of shit you don't need, emulsifiers, preservatives and often hormones and PGRs.

I use a mix from www.hydro-gardens.com that's 5-11-26 plus micros. It's designed to be used in conjunction with calcium nitrate- 50lb bags of which cost me less than $30, just to give you an idea of how much dry nutrients can save you. They also make a 4-20-36 plus micros mix that's very popular with dispensaries in Colorado. The ratios for that are different.

The ratio I use is basically 3 parts mix, 2 parts CaNi and 1 part epsom salt, by weight. I mix the calcium nitrate separately and add each to the reservoir already partially full so as to avoid high local concentrations of salts reacting with one another.

I use this same mix in veg and in bloom. It's cheap enough to just dump and refill with fresh solution on a regular basis.

The order of progression is to add the dissolved nutrients to a partially full reservoir, dilute to desired solution strength and adjust pH last.
Thanks!

Sadly, i have neglected researching nutes... opting to focus on environment control and such while using the fancy bottled nutes for dummies...lol

But that is where my focus is now that im mostly competent with a the rest. Going full hydro instists on it, evidently...lol
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Thanks!

Sadly, i have neglected researching nutes... opting to focus on environment control and such while using the fancy bottled nutes for dummies...lol

But that is where my focus is now that im mostly competent with a the rest. Going full hydro instists on it, evidently...lol
Nutrients should be neither as expensive nor as complicated as the 'water bottles for dummies' makers seem to insist on.

Why? Profits, of course!
 

Gquebed

Well-Known Member
ok, I see, You smoke spliffs? weed/tobacco mix i take it? Good deal on the no smoking ciggs, ! You have any pics of your grow?
Why would anyone mix weed with tobacco? Thats just weird.

We used to crumble hash into tobacco. Or use tobacco to soak up old school oil for joints. But mix it with herb? I dont understand...
 
Top