Offering Electrical / Control Circuit / Programming Help
- Thread starter Overcomplicatotron
- Start date
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
I realized you knew this already...
When you crank them up to full over speed they pull 1200W; 1150 for the lamp and another 50W for the ballast.
Amps=Watts/Volts, so 5A BUT don't forget the 20% headroom for safety, that's another Amp for a total of 6A per light at 240V.
6A x 4 lamps is 24A@240V, so you'll be fine with a 30A circuit. There's even enough room on it for some fans and such if you know how to split and balance the 240V circuit correctly.
Overcomplicatotron
Member
So...
Full disclaimer... You should have an electrician look at your setup. BUT if you are like the typical grower, I know you won't so here is some advice. I don't know your skill level, so here's the basics. If you have specific questions, you can shoot me another message. Especially when you get ready to do the work. I would be happy to elaborate, and do a photo inspection of your work.
I attached a photo of the general idea, use 10 gauge wire. I drew it up with rigid couplings and chase nipples between the panel and the boxes.
If this isn't enough information for you to get it done, hit me up and I can try to help a little more, but, if you have a buddy that knows electrical, it might be worth throwing him some nuggets to help you out. Electrical is not something to take lightly.
Full disclaimer... You should have an electrician look at your setup. BUT if you are like the typical grower, I know you won't so here is some advice. I don't know your skill level, so here's the basics. If you have specific questions, you can shoot me another message. Especially when you get ready to do the work. I would be happy to elaborate, and do a photo inspection of your work.
I attached a photo of the general idea, use 10 gauge wire. I drew it up with rigid couplings and chase nipples between the panel and the boxes.
If this isn't enough information for you to get it done, hit me up and I can try to help a little more, but, if you have a buddy that knows electrical, it might be worth throwing him some nuggets to help you out. Electrical is not something to take lightly.
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hicountry1
Well-Known Member
Hi all, I could use some help configuring the electric for 18k watts. My room is 75ft from my main panel and I am not sure which way would be best to run the power. Was thinking 100A subpanel w 3 30A circuits each running 6 lights at 240v. My other option is running those 3 circuits from the main or splitting it up between 2 50A runs.
The room already has plenty of 120v so I don't need any additional outlets there. Additionally I am running 2 40A circuits for my mini splits which will be 100ft from the main, what wire size will be sufficient at that distance 4?
I'm open to any ideas you all have, thanks in advance!
I'm running iluminar 1k de with the iluminar lighting controller
Iluminarlighting.com/touchcontroller
The room already has plenty of 120v so I don't need any additional outlets there. Additionally I am running 2 40A circuits for my mini splits which will be 100ft from the main, what wire size will be sufficient at that distance 4?
I'm open to any ideas you all have, thanks in advance!
I'm running iluminar 1k de with the iluminar lighting controller
Iluminarlighting.com/touchcontroller
Last edited:
Renfro
Well-Known Member
40 Amp feed for AC at 100 feet I would recommend #6 copper to prevent voltage drops.
You could install one of these for lighting:
https://heavygardens.com/titan-controls-spartan-series-metal-20-light-controller-240-volt-w-timer-universal-outlets.html?fee=15&fep=18354&utm_source=google-feed&utm_medium=shopping feed&utm_campaign=SCFeed&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o1&scid=scplp703016&sc_intid=703016&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4qWy3bn05AIV8iCtBh1d4AmuEAQYASABEgKiBPD_BwE
Thats the simple solution. At 75 feet you may wanna upsize the wire one notch to prevent voltage drop.
Renfro
Well-Known Member
A 100 amp feed would let you use 80 amps. I would recommend hooking up the lighting using a 125 amp feed so you will have 100 usable amps. 18,000 / 240 = 75 amps. Thats if the lights only draw 1000 watts but I bet they pull a little more since there is a loss in the ballast, plus they may have an overdrive setting. Use the ballast name plate rating for amps at 240 volts and multiply that by 18 lights to get your required amperage.
Renfro
Well-Known Member
If you don't want to use the lighting controller you can make up a 125 amp sub panel and pull 20 amp 240v feeds, each for 2 lights. That would require 18 breaker spaces for 9 240v circuits so you can't use a small panel. You just need a subpanel with main lugs, no main breaker in the sub panel as the breaker is upstream in your main switch panel. Don't forget the ground bus.
You do NOT use the green bonding screw on a sub panel, only at service entry.
You do NOT use the green bonding screw on a sub panel, only at service entry.
hicountry1
Well-Known Member
That’s great info, lights run at 4.6A each so I need 82.8A total. The only problem I see with using the controller box is just logistics with the plugs. I have an iponic master controller for the room and the digital Luminar lighting controller as well. I’ve wired tons of 40 and 50 Amp grows in the past but this one is a bit more complex and I’m just unsure the best way to go about it.
If I do the sub panel what type of wire will I need to go 75 ft? Any value in splitting up the load into smaller circuits for simplicity?
If I do the sub panel what type of wire will I need to go 75 ft? Any value in splitting up the load into smaller circuits for simplicity?
Renfro
Well-Known Member
How is that simpler? You are breaking them down at the sub panel.
I would personally use 1/0 Copper for the 125 amp run, at that distance voltage drop starts to become a factor. #1 Copper would be standard and you can probably get away with that. If you wanna go Aluminum I would use 2/0 or 3/0. We could get all mathy with voltage drop calculations but I doubt it's required here.
Using a service entry cable would technically be frowned upon but it could be a lot cheaper. To code this installation would use conduit and most likely THWN or THHN. You can't use a 90 degree rating since no breaker will have a rating higher than 75.
https://www.cerrowire.com/products/resources/tables-calculators/ampacity-charts/
hicountry1
Well-Known Member
is there any reason i cant run three 30A circuits w 6 lights on each just pigtailing each box?
Renfro
Well-Known Member
They don't make 30 amp rated receptacles that will take your light cords. A 30 amp should only be used for commercial lighting that is hard wired (no plugs).
Also know that a 30 amp feed will only carry around 24 amps before the breaker trips.
Renfro
Well-Known Member
All depends, if you hardwired the ballasts to a high amperage circuit then it's bad news since a short in a ballast could draw a LOT more than it should before tripping a breaker.
I got busy and forgot all about this until just now. So I forgot to look and see but I'm pretty sure that they are 20 amp breakers with 2 lights per breaker. I'll def check when get home, I got a guy coming to run a gas line for c02 generator, if something isnt right i can have him correct it.