NFTG. Nectar For The Gods

irie here a question .... with tea brewing ... my ph when all done bubble is 8.1 . even if I ph the water to 6.0 will go to 7.5 , im only using EWC and molasses .. using sink water and not RO , LET THAT BUBBLE 24 HRS BEFORE ADDING ANY THING ....matter of fact im using 2.5 gallons to make tea and mix 6 cups to plain water ph at 6.0 still be 7.5.... what am I missing ?
 
bubba73 said:
irie here a question .... with tea brewing ... my ph when all done bubble is 8.1 . even if I ph the water to 6.0 will go to 7.5 , im only using EWC and molasses .. using sink water and not RO , LET THAT BUBBLE 24 HRS BEFORE ADDING ANY THING ....matter of fact im using 2.5 gallons to make tea and mix 6 cups to plain water ph at 6.0 still be 7.5.... what am I missing ?
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Mine does the same thing!! No worries man, drench away your soil will buffer it quite quickly. PH is only a concern when feeding nutrients for proper uptake. It just means you have billions of bacteria in your brew and not too much fungal.(fungal like lower ph's) The tea is not a feed so whatever your brew ph is is what the bacteria are thriving in. What was your EWC source? I've started teas with tons of HERC to lower but the microbes take it right back up. That product RECHARGE that sly was talking about yesterday hits the water and the ph goes up.....the only bad thing to do would be to buffer back down into feed range, the swing would cause death and dormancy. If it is a huge concern then wet your soil wwith some Herc water and then drench the microbes. I will sometimes use Aphrodites to finish brew to get a few points lower for peace of mind but not necessary. Colorado worm company reccomends just bubble their castings with NO MOLLASSES!! Just oxygen and agitation so as to keep a diverse species population, because the molassas cause the strongest to take hold, out compete and you get bacterial blooms. Keep at it brother, try the no molasses way or half the molasses and check brew at 12 hrs.......could even go 48 hrs and see where your ph goes. Its kinda like growing, a lot of variables and temp, water source, environment, equipment, EWC quality, etc.....Frass and bokashi the last 2 hrs of brew might stop the ph rise....just keep playing and can always drench your veggies with it too.
 
bubba73 said:
irie here a question .... with tea brewing ... my ph when all done bubble is 8.1 . even if I ph the water to 6.0 will go to 7.5 , im only using EWC and molasses .. using sink water and not RO , LET THAT BUBBLE 24 HRS BEFORE ADDING ANY THING ....matter of fact im using 2.5 gallons to make tea and mix 6 cups to plain water ph at 6.0 still be 7.5.... what am I missing ?
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The more I read your post and think about what's happening, I'm pretty sure im in the ballpark of what's happening. Aerated water off gases its C02 and I'm pretty sure this reaction frees up the carbonates in the tap water(which are ph adjusters Calcium carbonate) so the ph will rise....before the brew ingredients come together this reaction would happen fast and be very minimal at best as CO2 levels aren't high in tap water but then as the billions of microbes start to use up the oxygen to survive they are releasing CO2 to stay alive so the C02 reacts with the carbonates and the ph goes up. I'm just a humble electrician but from my understanding and how I too have experienced this same rising, this is my "crack-pot explanation!! The super tea gurus use collected rain water, clean running stream water, or pond water.....then last resort store bought spring water. Filtered water and bubbled tap can be too problematic but can still produce great teas.
 
IrieRoots said:
The more I read your post and think about what's happening, I'm pretty sure im in the ballpark of what's happening. Aerated water off gases its C02 and I'm pretty sure this reaction frees up the carbonates in the tap water(which are ph adjusters Calcium carbonate) so the ph will rise....before the brew ingredients come together this reaction would happen fast and be very minimal at best as CO2 levels aren't high in tap water but then as the billions of microbes start to use up the oxygen to survive they are releasing CO2 to stay alive so the C02 reacts with the carbonates and the ph goes up. I'm just a humble electrician but from my understanding and how I too have experienced this same rising, this is my "crack-pot explanation!! The super tea gurus use collected rain water, clean running stream water, or pond water.....then last resort store bought spring water. Filtered water and bubbled tap can be too problematic but can still produce great teas.
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with no amendments in soil wouldn't there be a slight risk of a ph jump in soil ? no buffer ? when I do a , lets say a 20:1 ratio do I have to have the water same ph ? as tea ?
 
bubba73 said:
with no amendments in soil wouldn't there be a slight risk of a ph jump in soil ? no buffer ? when I do a , lets say a 20:1 ratio do I have to have the water same ph ? as tea ?
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The soil should have buffers in it, limestone or oyster or dolomite etc, and yes the soil will spike briefly but then balance out. Its the opposite spectrum when applying bokashi compost, the soil ph will dive but then balance out. The microbes attach to everything and form a layer, especially on the roots where the plant feeds them exudates. So they form an armor pretty much. I think your fine at 20:1 but prolly not necessary. Its hard to do, but when brewing a tea the ph needs to start in microbe friendly range, but then they take control...that range is 6.2-7.2 but they can survive and thrive in broader spectrums and this is the soil ph range for microbes.....in solution it's different variables. The main concern is the carbonates in water, they will always spike the ph. Your not feeding soluble bottled nutrients so the ph isn't as critical, plants don't uptake microbes, your just looking to colonize roots so when you do feed nectar the microbes aretat the dinner table. I would drench it 100% and slurry a couple days later so you know what a good ph for your feed to go in can be. I went thru the same headaches until I just caved and pick up 5 gallons of store bought spring water. This time of year the municipalities dump calcium carbonate into water supply to buffer all the nasty shit they put in to kill life!! Winter months they don't apply as heavy.
 
Hey Irie, my soil has dried up pretty good at this point, what do you suggest I go with first, herc flush to reset everything, or should I give it some beneficials like recharge, tea, or something to that effect to give it something to eat biologically?
 
Slyness41 said:
Hey Irie, my soil has dried up pretty good at this point, what do you suggest I go with first, herc flush to reset everything, or should I give it some beneficials like recharge, tea, or something to that effect to give it something to eat biologically?
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have you slurried to see if they are eating or are over fed?
 
With that number 4 soil, I would imagine there is still a little food there available... Do you have to do a reset if all it was was an overwatering issue? Or do you just go to your feeding schedule for where you are in growth?
 
that's right, I forgot your circumstances with the new repot and over watering. Should be plenty of food to nourish them in the #4, I would do a tea of some sort with maybe a touch of Gaia to drop the ph in range and like 2.5 ml of Kraken if you have it.
 
IrieRoots said:
gotcha. are they still weepy?
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Not like before at all, the ones that were really weepy are still a little bit that way, but the new growth is starting to come in and going normal like it should...if they're super curled like that, would they straighten out if it's okay or would they just stay that way after being like that for so many days?
IrieRoots said:
that's right, I forgot your circumstances with the new repot and over watering. Should be plenty of food to nourish them in the #4, I would do a tea of some sort with maybe a touch of Gaia to drop the ph in range and like 2.5 ml of Kraken if you have it.
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I definitely have the crack and I have everything they make! LOL it sort of became an addiction to buy bottles after I first tried it... Have you heard of or used the recharge?
 
IrieRoots said:
that's right, I forgot your circumstances with the new repot and over watering. Should be plenty of food to nourish them in the #4, I would do a tea of some sort with maybe a touch of Gaia to drop the ph in range and like 2.5 ml of Kraken if you have it.
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Would that ratio of kraken before a gallon? Cuz I only mix and 1/2 gallons so I don't have newts sitting around waiting there always done fresh as I use them.
 
Slyness41 said:
Would that ratio of kraken before a gallon? Cuz I only mix and 1/2 gallons so I don't have newts sitting around waiting there always done fresh as I use them.
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Kraken is gentle so you can prolly get away with 2.5 ml to a 1/2 gal. And the Gaia is like a flu shot, say 5 ml with some microbes. The leaves can bounce back, a foliar might help repair or whatever deficiency you had.
 
no heavy nitrogen yet, which nectar is light on anyway, but you want to get a little phosphorus in the rootzone to boost root growth and general plant energy!! Fulpower would be nice addition to to get things moving!! I really love ALOE too to boost energy and health!!
 
I don't have fulpower, or aloe...lol but I will go with a phosphorus addition, and kracken, is the nitrogen in Gaia gonna be ok?
 
What about Aphrodite's, it has the phosphate from monopotassium, and has that sucrose and glucose. Mega too. and would you suggest that I use Poseidonzym as my foliar?
 
Poseidon definitely for foliar! hold off on Aphro and Mega until they are eating full meals.....yes they are phos sources but are a touch too salty for new developing roots, and they will Jack up your ppms. No need, think spoon feed right now, it doesn't take much phos to boost growth energy and too much can hinder fungi colonization!!
 
a teaspoon of Epsom to quart of water and 5 ml of Poseidon might get those droopy leaves to perk up!! Those clones may have been approaching a mag deficiency which is very common in cuts and mother plants so the mag in the epsom is a great tool!! I foliar Kraken too, it builds strong as hell cell walls with super sturdy branches!!
 
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