I marked where I assume I should be cutting when the time comes, if I am way off I am sure you will tell me.
Sorry, but you
are way off.
Start at the top of the plant and work your way down. Make your first cutting a section of the mainstem. Then move down to lower branches, preserving a node (or two if they're close together) on each branch. Those nodes will become long branches for your next pass of cuts. After a few passes of cuttings, the branches will become thicker.
Allrighty then.. At a second look, my leaves aren't wilting, they are kinda curling under and the edges and tips are burning.. I don't know, nute burn or lockout?
Looks like root probs.
Keep in mind this is kind of an aero setup.. The pump is in the res with the plants and has four sprayers on it. I'm running it 15 mins. on and 15 off. Maybe I am overwatering, but i was told the pump should run constantly? The roots look pretty good, not completely white, but they dont look rotten either.
Yes, it is possible to overwater an aero setup but I'm not sure that's what's happening here.
If the roots are not bright white i.e. tan or beige, you have root problems. Root disease can be caused by excessive watering (absence of O2 in the rootzone) or pathogens in the nutes.
Do you see any cloudy gack in the nutes or clinging to the roots? What is the nutrient soln temp?
What's the pH & EC?
What nutes are you using? Fully inorganic?
If using inorganic nutes, you can use H2O2, which I think will fix this problem. Start by dumping the res, clean it and refill with tapwater. No nutes for now. Adj pH to 5.8. Add H2O2 50% grade at 5ml/L. Run this soln for 3 days. Dump and refill, add nutes to 800-1000ppm, adj pH to 5.8. Add H2O2 50% grade @ 1ml/L. Dose the res with H2O2 every 3-4 days. Omit the Hygrozyme, it is protein based and H2O2 will oxidise the proteins. The oxidation will consume the H2O2 before it can attack pathogens. Hygrozyme also does not release O2 into the roots.
Check the roots in 3-4 days, you should see new white roots forming. Please let me know how you're going in 3-4 days.
Keep in mind that deficiencies are quite rare when using a commercially made nutrient. pH errors can lock out certain nutes. It should be at 5.8.
Good morning Mr. Fuct, I am here once again to ask very politely if you will look over my cloning setup
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/119268-first-hydro-grow.html#post1480125 and offer any wisdom that you might have.
Looks generally good, but I have a couple of concerns.
Move the tstat down to plant level. That's a real lump of a tstat, looks like it will take up quite a lot of your available space, but if you are not planning on totally filling this clonebox, it'll be OK.
I see a block of RW in a translucent plastic container. I hope you're not planning to put water in the tray with a plant in the RW. RW must not sit in a puddle. It will remain constantly saturated. This will rot stem tips. RW must be only damp, never wet or saturated. If you are using this only to test your hygrometer, that's cool. If your hygro has not budged off 20% even with a wet RW block in there, it's definitely not working. Try taking the batts out and putting them back in & see if that doesn't make it start working.
I see a white plastic tray as well, where's the heat mat? RW cubes should sit right on the heatmat, or in a very thin plastic tray placed on the mat. The white tray I see has drain channels in it, which are not needed in this application and also will space the cubes off of the heatmat if it is below said tray. This will reduce heat transfer into the RW cubes. It may yet be OK if there's enough heat transfer into the RW to encourage root formation.
Hey AL,
My clones in rockwool cubes are starting to get this white powdery substance on them. Is there a way to get rid of this white stuff?
On the plants or the cubes? If on the leaves, it's powdery mildew. It's encouraged by excessively high RH & poor air circulation. PM is treated on growroom scale with a sulfur evaporator. For treating individual small plants, spray with a weak lime sulfur soln.
Lime sulfur liquid concentrate can be had in small (100ml or so) bottles from garden shops. You will find mixing instructions for treating PM on pumpkin leaves, etc. Use half that dosage in a spray. Spray the plants and leave the clonebox door open until leaves have dried. Spray again in 3-4 days, same way. Your clones should have rooted and be ready for flowering by the time the next application is needed. Kit out your flowering room with a sulfur evaporator. Spray with lime sulfur weekly until you get an evaporator. Don't spray buds post wk5.
I have been feeding them only ph adjusted water w/ 30% h202 horticulture grade. I was thinking of sticking them into the DWC system I made and top feeding them until they get roots. Good or bad idea?
real bad idea. the mist from the DWC will saturate the RW and prevent roots from forming. Never put clones into a DWC until there's roots out of the cubes. When you have roots out of the cubes, pot them up in netpots of pellets. Assure that there's at least a 25-50mm thickness of pellets between the RW & any mist from the DWC.
AL- I know you answered this question before , but I cant find the answer. What ppm's are you using in your tanks? Are you still using different levels depending on plant age ( as listed in the 2 week thread), or one level straight across? Thanks (in advance).
Flowering tanks are run at 1400, mums run 1600-1800, all 5.8. These numbers are up for review post my recent convo with Canna. While I have had great results with 1600-1800 on the mums, Canna advise not exceeding 1540ppm. On their counsel, I am reducing that to 1000-1100 for the next 2 weeks to see how that goes. I don't know why I'm trying to fix a problem I don't have... but there you go.
I'm also reducing one flowering tank to 1000. When I next apply PK-13-14, I will use 1ml/L, ck the ppm & then add nutes to 1400.
hi al,
it gets hot in australia in the summer months right?
what are your temps like then?
Australia is a
big place, mon. Same size as the lower 48. In the Simpson Desert, it'll be 45C on summer days, 0-5C on winter nights. Darwin is 33C every day in summer, 28C every day in winter. Hobart, down in Tassie, may not get past 25-26C even in peak summer. Sydney has seen 45C on 1 Jan 2007. It was HELL. Syd peak summer days avg 18 (night) to 27C (day), winter days are usually between 7-14C. However, Katoomba, in the Blue Mountains to the west of Sydney, is usually 3-5C cooler year round due to the 1000m elevation vs. Sydney's sea-level elevation. This weather report brought to you by Marijuana.
See also
The Sydney Morning Herald: national, world, business, entertainment, sport and technology news from Australia's leading newspaper.
HEE HEE HEE HEE
