Organic no till, probiotic, knf, jadam, vermicomposting, soil mixes, sips etc... Q & A

MidwestGorilla219

Well-Known Member
I found a garden store going out of business, 75% off everything so I bought 8 25lb bags of espoma chicken manure pellets for $40. I have no idea how hot the stuff is but it smells potent. I'm growing outdoors in 100 gallon pots, soil mix is 30% castings and horse manure compost, 40% sphagnum peat moss, and 30% aeration. Then 1/2 cup of each, kelp meal, crab shell, fish bone meal, oyster shell flower (I add a lot of calcium to my worm bins so weary of adding more). And 1 cup glacier rock dust.

How hot are chicken manure pellets, can I add half a cup per cubic ft? My soil mix I have used many times except I used alfalfa meal at a half cup. My soil gets mixed early April and I will transplant roughly 18-24 inch plants from seed June 1st.
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
I found a garden store going out of business, 75% off everything so I bought 8 25lb bags of espoma chicken manure pellets for $40. I have no idea how hot the stuff is but it smells potent. I'm growing outdoors in 100 gallon pots, soil mix is 30% castings and horse manure compost, 40% sphagnum peat moss, and 30% aeration. Then 1/2 cup of each, kelp meal, crab shell, fish bone meal, oyster shell flower (I add a lot of calcium to my worm bins so weary of adding more). And 1 cup glacier rock dust.

How hot are chicken manure pellets, can I add half a cup per cubic ft? My soil mix I have used many times except I used alfalfa meal at a half cup. My soil gets mixed early April and I will transplant roughly 18-24 inch plants from seed June 1st.

I usually see stuff called "chicky doo doo" or something with an NPK of 3-3-3. definitely safe to add at 1/2c per cu.ft. Do they have an NPK value on the espoma bag? or surely there is a nutrient profile table on the back of the bag. sounds like you have a nice system worked out! I wish i had the space to do outdoor... maybe in a few years :)
 

MidwestGorilla219

Well-Known Member
I usually see stuff called "chicky doo doo" or something with an NPK of 3-3-3. definitely safe to add at 1/2c per cu.ft. Do they have an NPK value on the espoma bag? or surely there is a nutrient profile table on the back of the bag. sounds like you have a nice system worked out! I wish i had the space to do outdoor... maybe in a few years :)
The NPK value is 3-2-3. I have seen the chicky-do-do at menards. This stuff smells much stronger. It says it's dehydrated and granulated chicken manure if that matters. It will cook for about 2 months so I'm thinking I should be good anyways.
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
My bermuda breath and highland breath almost done. I've decided I'm not going to release f2's of either of these. But rather release what I cross with the males of these. I'm about to flip the light on the highland breath male project.

I may change my mind down the road.


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I was watching your old YouTube videos and some of your older stuff looks a lot like what I am dealing with now. It looks like you were dealing with a lot of nutrient lockout and deficiencies and then you made a break-though and all of your plants don't have spots or brown anymore. I was really impressed with the FPJ that I made from a tomato plant and I am trying to make "Roberto's Brew" now. I'm waiting for my new carboy jugs to be delivered today. I got some food grade plastic 5gal buckets but they started falling apart the 1st day of use. The lip that holds the lid came off during the first use, so that was a worthless set back. I'm also going to start getting SIP planters together.

I was getting chlorosis from a Mn def and the leaves were getting pale and droopy. I watered with a little Mn and FPJ and the plants started to perk back up the next day. Anyways, I'm getting pretty good results from my FPJ and I'm ready to dig a little deeper into KNF.
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Per cubic foot
1 cup Bio fish (down to earth)
1 cup bokashi (red wheat, lab, molasses, himilayan salt, photo plus, rock dusts)
Is this the Photo Plus that you are talking about?
https://www.amazon.com/Microbe-Life-Photosynthesis-Plus-Quart/dp/B00BID0BOI

What kind of rock dust are you using? I think that I am going to stop buying basalt and start using a lot more greensand and azomite because I'm still low in Mn. My worm bin LOVED the bokashi that I put in there. I added some before we got snow and my worm bin was steamy and the worms were doing awesome, even during the snow. The problem is mice, I can see where they burrow and eat all of my worms. I can see my worm bin being a mouse hotel in the winter and snake bait during the summer.
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Is this the Photo Plus that you are talking about?
https://www.amazon.com/Microbe-Life-Photosynthesis-Plus-Quart/dp/B00BID0BOI

What kind of rock dust are you using? I think that I am going to stop buying basalt and start using a lot more greensand and azomite because I'm still low in Mn. My worm bin LOVED the bokashi that I put in there. I added some before we got snow and my worm bin was steamy and the worms were doing awesome, even during the snow. The problem is mice, I can see where they burrow and eat all of my worms. I can see my worm bin being a mouse hotel in the winter and snake bait during the summer.
Pretty sure thats the one, I just got a bottle a couple months ago. One comment is I have not applied bt for fungus gnats since beginning use.

Meanwhile I will be making a batch of this.
CAL-PHOS

1.Collect a bunch of eggshells and wash to remove inside filaments. Remember, you can also use bones and other good sources of calcium like seashells, clams and oysters, etc. Likewise, if you only want calcium, even limestone can be used, or simple lime. Egg shells for soluble calcium. Animal bones for soluble phos.

2. Pan fry the eggshells or bones. Fry until some are brown/black, some white. The burnt shells are your Calcium source while the white are the Phosphorus source.

3.After roasting the eggshells or bones, grind them up. You can do it manually, with a mortar and pestle, throw them in a blender or electric coffee grinder, etc.

4. Add them to a jar and add 5 parts vinegar by volume. For example, if you have 1 cup ground shells, add 5 cups vinegar.

The acid in the vinegar helps digest them. You will notice bubbling as this process converts the ingredients to liquid calcium phosphate.

5. Wait until tiny bubbles disappear

6. Seal the jar and ferment for 20 days.

7. Filter into another jar

8. Now you’ve made your own Calcium Phosphate

NOW :How to Use

Mix 1 tbsp per gallon

Plants

Spray on leaves during transition phase to flower, and when fruits are large and mature

Transition Phase: Induces flowering, eases nutrient demands of transition phase, strengthens flowers

Mature Fruit: Strengthens plant stems, leaves, fruits, helps fruit mature properly for optimum sweet flavor.

You can also skip the vinegar and compost the cal-phos and feed them to worms. Then you will have compost with phos solublizing enzymes and high phos compost.
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
I was watching your old YouTube videos and some of your older stuff looks a lot like what I am dealing with now. It looks like you were dealing with a lot of nutrient lockout and deficiencies and then you made a break-though and all of your plants don't have spots or brown anymore. I was really impressed with the FPJ that I made from a tomato plant and I am trying to make "Roberto's Brew" now. I'm waiting for my new carboy jugs to be delivered today. I got some food grade plastic 5gal buckets but they started falling apart the 1st day of use. The lip that holds the lid came off during the first use, so that was a worthless set back. I'm also going to start getting SIP planters together.

I was getting chlorosis from a Mn def and the leaves were getting pale and droopy. I watered with a little Mn and FPJ and the plants started to perk back up the next day. Anyways, I'm getting pretty good results from my FPJ and I'm ready to dig a little deeper into KNF.

Magnanese def was the spots. As soon as i started adding karanja cake, more diversity of rock dusts and doing ferments, bokashi, and topping pureed malted barley. They went away. I still get fades at the end of flower witj a few strains that are just nutrient hogs.
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Is this the Photo Plus that you are talking about?
https://www.amazon.com/Microbe-Life-Photosynthesis-Plus-Quart/dp/B00BID0BOI

What kind of rock dust are you using? I think that I am going to stop buying basalt and start using a lot more greensand and azomite because I'm still low in Mn. My worm bin LOVED the bokashi that I put in there. I added some before we got snow and my worm bin was steamy and the worms were doing awesome, even during the snow. The problem is mice, I can see where they burrow and eat all of my worms. I can see my worm bin being a mouse hotel in the winter and snake bait during the summer.

Yep same one. It has pnsb and other microbes that are not in labs. I only add a few tablespoons for every 20 lbs of of grains.

I use basalt, gypsum, and galcial rock dusts.

Also bokashi, ahimsa neem cake, karanja cake, and malted barley all have magnanese. Bokashi has the most of all of them if made with hard red wheat. Not sure about rice bokashi though.
 
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MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Magnanese def was the spots. As soon as i started adding karanja cake, more diversity of rock dusts and doing ferments, bokashi, and topping pureed malted barley. They went away. I still get fades at the end of flower witj a few strains that are just nutrient hogs.
I feel like I got burned on my last bag of glacial rock dust because it looks exactly like basalt. The GRD that I bought before was micronized and tan, the last stuff was coarse and grey/black. So, I really wasn't impressed with either my basalt or GRD recently. I think that I only get Mg out of the basalt. It's important to me now because I had a K def my last harvest and my Ca and Mg were very high, so I think that they dove the K into deficiency. From having my soil tested and retested, it looked like I was mostly getting sodium, boron and copper from kelp. I was also getting a little bump in K, N, Fe, and B but not really that much. I noticed that kelp and alfalfa was my only K inputs, so I need to expand. That's when I came across greensand, it has K, Mg, Fe and Mn.
DSC01165.JPG

Also bokashi, ahimsa neem cake, karanja cake, and malted barley all have magnanese. Bokashi has the most of all of them if made with hard red wheat. Not sure about rice bokashi though.
I have some red wheat that I have been making bokashi with, but I've been putting it in the worm bin and the worm population really exploded. I heard Clackamas say that worms like barley, so I've been impressed with how well my worm bin is doing now, but the leaves still are not broken down. I don't think that it will be ready until the end of summer honestly.
I've been back and fourth on using my compost and I decided to just go with it. I had some recycled soil going and I just left it alone for about 18months. The problem with my compost is that it is always super high in P and low in trace minerals like Fe, Mn, and Zn mostly. I think that I am going to have to give a light feeding of these trace minerals throughout the grow. It's the same soil as the test in the pic.

I know that there is probably a better way to foliar feed, but I just got some BioMin for trace minerals. I listeded to the podcast with Dr. Steve Solomon(Author of The Intelligent Gardener) and he talks specifically about trace minerals, so I bought into his product.
https://www.kisorganics.com/products/biomin-booster-153

 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
I don't mean to be so long winded. It's takes a little transition time to start getting on board with what you are doing, as in buying a few things. I was very impressed with the FPJ and I would like to see what Flower Power ferment can do in flower. Next, I am going to get into SIP planters.
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Pretty sure thats the one, I just got a bottle a couple months ago. One comment is I have not applied bt for fungus gnats since beginning use.
That is def some good information! I was going to buy mosquito dunks, but it would be good to save some money lol. I mean, I already ordered the Photo+. I saw one review that said it smelled like 10,000 farts in a bottle. It was hard to find info about Photo+ and I was trying to see if it had similar bacterial/fungal strains as EM1. I'm guessing that it would be better if I made homemade LABS instead of buying EM1 and get the Photo+ instead?
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
That is def some good information! I was going to buy mosquito dunks, but it would be good to save some money lol. I mean, I already ordered the Photo+. I saw one review that said it smelled like 10,000 farts in a bottle. It was hard to find info about Photo+ and I was trying to see if it had similar bacterial/fungal strains as EM1. I'm guessing that it would be better if I made homemade LABS instead of buying EM1 and get the Photo+ instead?
It reeks, make sure the bottle has a good seal, otherwise you WILL regret it.
Since EM1 does not publish a C of A outlining the exact composition of its product I dont think it is possible to compare the two products on paper, without an in depth analysis of the production process of each. Photo plus lists colony counts on the label, and npk ratios.
I cant explain why I havent had to treat for fungus gnats, it just alligns with starting use of this product, perhaps one of the other bacteria have a similar toxicity to the pest.
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
I was watching your old YouTube videos and some of your older stuff looks a lot like what I am dealing with now. It looks like you were dealing with a lot of nutrient lockout and deficiencies and then you made a break-though and all of your plants don't have spots or brown anymore. I was really impressed with the FPJ that I made from a tomato plant and I am trying to make "Roberto's Brew" now. I'm waiting for my new carboy jugs to be delivered today. I got some food grade plastic 5gal buckets but they started falling apart the 1st day of use. The lip that holds the lid came off during the first use, so that was a worthless set back. I'm also going to start getting SIP planters together.

I was getting chlorosis from a Mn def and the leaves were getting pale and droopy. I watered with a little Mn and FPJ and the plants started to perk back up the next day. Anyways, I'm getting pretty good results from my FPJ and I'm ready to dig a little deeper into KNF.
Dig a little deeper into the soil food web, elaine ingham, jeff lowenfels, joshua steensland, shango los - cannabis polyculture, herbin farmer on youtube:)
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
Is this the Photo Plus that you are talking about?
https://www.amazon.com/Microbe-Life-Photosynthesis-Plus-Quart/dp/B00BID0BOI

What kind of rock dust are you using? I think that I am going to stop buying basalt and start using a lot more greensand and azomite because I'm still low in Mn. My worm bin LOVED the bokashi that I put in there. I added some before we got snow and my worm bin was steamy and the worms were doing awesome, even during the snow. The problem is mice, I can see where they burrow and eat all of my worms. I can see my worm bin being a mouse hotel in the winter and snake bait during the summer.
Feed the mice, grow potatoes near there next year :) if you find the shango los cannabis polycuture video of the outdoor guy on youtube., he loves the mice they breakdown the root plants he puts there and turns them into manure, aerates while burrowing . His garden is amazing And no work lol
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
DSC_2305.JPG
laugh at my limp leaves lol she dryed out a bit, it was time to trim the undergrowth anyways ;)
DSC_2299.JPG received_478849395981647.jpeg DSC_2312.JPG

Day 18 flower from flip to 12/12

First run of no till in home made sips

Easy fuckin peasy.

Just got a shitload of companion seeds to go in the totes .

Welcome to jungle :)
 
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