Ventilaton

Rainbow Warrior

Well-Known Member
Hi, couple of Q’s to the experts out there:

Planning to use a 500CFM exhaust fan for a 3ft x 3ft x 1,8m grow room. Is this sizing ok?

Is a natural air intake ok? If so, how do u calculate the size of the air intake compared to the above exhaust & grow room size?

No Einstein calculations please; would appreciate som rules of thumb...

RW
 

Justinsbudzzz

Well-Known Member
That's fine c.f. m rating fan .and I always double my intake if I'm running a passive intake so a 6" exhaust and a 12 inch intake and I found that most the vents on the tents have a perfect size vent for this . and no expert here just letting you know what works for me good luck
 

Couch_Lock

Well-Known Member
Hi, couple of Q’s to the experts out there:

Planning to use a 500CFM exhaust fan for a 3ft x 3ft x 1,8m grow room. Is this sizing ok?

Is a natural air intake ok? If so, how do u calculate the size of the air intake compared to the above exhaust & grow room size?

No Einstein calculations please; would appreciate som rules of thumb...

RW
Seems like a hella lot CFM for a 3 x 3. Might work well if you can set fan to low. I am using a 6" exhaust in a 4 x 4 with 440 CFM.
 

BostonBuds

Well-Known Member
I'm growing in a 3'x6' closet under a set of stairs and shoved a 700cfm fan/filter in there and I only have to keep it on the lowest setting and works perfectly at maintaining even temps. Yes it is complete overkill and the only reason I didnt return it is because I am able to fit it in my grow area and im already thinking about future grows. I did install a reducer because the 8" ducting is just too massive to have in my grow area. I have a passive intake, just a hole cut in the bottom of the closet door, and figured as long as I can replace all the air in the grow area quickly I wont need additional cooling in warmer months.

20190223_071627.jpg
 

Couch_Lock

Well-Known Member
I'm growing in a 3'x6' closet under a set of stairs and shoved a 700cfm fan/filter in there and I only have to keep it on the lowest setting and works perfectly at maintaining even temps. Yes it is complete overkill and the only reason I didnt return it is because I am able to fit it in my grow area and im already thinking about future grows. I did install a reducer because the 8" ducting is just too massive to have in my grow area. I have a passive intake, just a hole cut in the bottom of the closet door, and figured as long as I can replace all the air in the grow area quickly I wont need additional cooling in warmer months.

View attachment 4289280
Neat job there, fella.
 

myke

Well-Known Member
I do the 3 times rule and like to have air intakes in a coupe of spots.
So 4" fan =12 sq inches so I have 36 sq inches of openings in my room.A hole here a square there kinda thing.
 
If i can stick my 2 cents in I'd agree with Myke that you want to change the air in the room 2-3 times, ideally 3-4 times in 1 minute, I've always used a dual fan controller with a temperature sensor you put the sensor at about the top of plant level, they are designed to always create negative pressure and adjust the fans slowly so as not to create an immediate noise, Set the temperature controller to 24degrees C and you never need to worry about temperature or air exchange 8 months of the year however in winter you may need a little 500W heater again with a temperature control, I could do the math for you but its a little late:)

Regards,

ukcannabisonline
 

Bookush34

Well-Known Member
I have a 4” in-line turned all the way down. Cooling a LED 3x3. Had it turned all the way up with a aircooled hood and hps in the same tent
 
It's funny, I usually hate/ suck at math, but the suns not up yet and I just did the calculations for my tents cfm. Never in my life have I been this inclined to do math with a smile.
 

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member

Ou8aCracker2

Well-Known Member
If you want to take as much advantage as you can with out having to build a sealed room or "CGE", use a fan dedicated only to ventilation and scrubbing of the air with carbon filter, place it on a environmental controller which will allow you to set the fan on/off for certain parameters ie; humidity gets to high/low, temperature in tent/grow box gets to high/low.

So many variables go into growing good cannabis and environment is the most important along with genetics and skill level/knowledge.

When using oassive intake, twice the area for the intake vs exhaust. Tents have adequate intake area which can be used passivley or actively (intake fan). If using an active, you want the intake fan to be smaller than the exhuast fan to maintain a negative pressure environment. 500cfm may sound like a lot of fan power for a 3x3 but what so many fail to take into consideration is the ambient temperature which is the temperature of the room that the tent sits in and draws it's fresh cool air from. If you can't control that room then best believe with all those olants and all the light and fans working, the temperature in that tent is going to go up considerably. Always best to use an air cooled light (if running h.i.d.'s) with it's own dedicated inline exhuast fan on it's own ducting...should look like

Fresh air from room > Intake ducting > Inline Fan > Ducting > Air Cooled Hood/Light > Ducting > Attic/Another Room...exhuast it anywhere but back into the room it sits in, otherwise you'll be raising the temperature and humidity of the room the tent sits in, therefore rasing the temp and humidity in the tent and so on.

Once attaching a proper sized carbon filter to the fan, as well as any ducting, the fans cfm rating will drop by a good 25% to 30%+ and if you have any 90° or any real bends in your ducting, your fans cfm ratung will be cut by 50%++ so straight a run as possible. Also, use oversized insulated ducting. The larger than needed diameter won't impeded airflow as badly meaning better performance from your fan, as well as cutting diwn on the noise from the air "wooshing" around in the ducting and at it's exit, and because it is insulated you don't have to worry about radiant heat transferring from the ducting back into the ambient room/tent.

I've got some reading material for you in a moment but let's start here...

1) Size and highest temperature and lowest temperature of room you plan to place your 3x3 tent in

2) Wattage of grow light and type (L.E.D./H.I.D./CMH/Fluoro etc.)

3) Max and Min desired temperarures in tent with lights on and off. Tdiff.
 

SatIndy

Well-Known Member
If you want to take as much advantage as you can with out having to build a sealed room or "CGE", use a fan dedicated only to ventilation and scrubbing of the air with carbon filter, place it on a environmental controller which will allow you to set the fan on/off for certain parameters ie; humidity gets to high/low, temperature in tent/grow box gets to high/low.

So many variables go into growing good cannabis and environment is the most important along with genetics and skill level/knowledge.

When using oassive intake, twice the area for the intake vs exhaust. Tents have adequate intake area which can be used passivley or actively (intake fan). If using an active, you want the intake fan to be smaller than the exhuast fan to maintain a negative pressure environment. 500cfm may sound like a lot of fan power for a 3x3 but what so many fail to take into consideration is the ambient temperature which is the temperature of the room that the tent sits in and draws it's fresh cool air from. If you can't control that room then best believe with all those olants and all the light and fans working, the temperature in that tent is going to go up considerably. Always best to use an air cooled light (if running h.i.d.'s) with it's own dedicated inline exhuast fan on it's own ducting...should look like

Fresh air from room > Intake ducting > Inline Fan > Ducting > Air Cooled Hood/Light > Ducting > Attic/Another Room...exhuast it anywhere but back into the room it sits in, otherwise you'll be raising the temperature and humidity of the room the tent sits in, therefore rasing the temp and humidity in the tent and so on.

Once attaching a proper sized carbon filter to the fan, as well as any ducting, the fans cfm rating will drop by a good 25% to 30%+ and if you have any 90° or any real bends in your ducting, your fans cfm ratung will be cut by 50%++ so straight a run as possible. Also, use oversized insulated ducting. The larger than needed diameter won't impeded airflow as badly meaning better performance from your fan, as well as cutting diwn on the noise from the air "wooshing" around in the ducting and at it's exit, and because it is insulated you don't have to worry about radiant heat transferring from the ducting back into the ambient room/tent.

I've got some reading material for you in a moment but let's start here...

1) Size and highest temperature and lowest temperature of room you plan to place your 3x3 tent in

2) Wattage of grow light and type (L.E.D./H.I.D./CMH/Fluoro etc.)

3) Max and Min desired temperarures in tent with lights on and off. Tdiff.
* Taking notes. Thanks for this.
Found what I was looking for! :D
 

Rainbow Warrior

Well-Known Member
If you want to take as much advantage as you can with out having to build a sealed room or "CGE", use a fan dedicated only to ventilation and scrubbing of the air with carbon filter, place it on a environmental controller which will allow you to set the fan on/off for certain parameters ie; humidity gets to high/low, temperature in tent/grow box gets to high/low.

So many variables go into growing good cannabis and environment is the most important along with genetics and skill level/knowledge.

When using oassive intake, twice the area for the intake vs exhaust. Tents have adequate intake area which can be used passivley or actively (intake fan). If using an active, you want the intake fan to be smaller than the exhuast fan to maintain a negative pressure environment. 500cfm may sound like a lot of fan power for a 3x3 but what so many fail to take into consideration is the ambient temperature which is the temperature of the room that the tent sits in and draws it's fresh cool air from. If you can't control that room then best believe with all those olants and all the light and fans working, the temperature in that tent is going to go up considerably. Always best to use an air cooled light (if running h.i.d.'s) with it's own dedicated inline exhuast fan on it's own ducting...should look like

Fresh air from room > Intake ducting > Inline Fan > Ducting > Air Cooled Hood/Light > Ducting > Attic/Another Room...exhuast it anywhere but back into the room it sits in, otherwise you'll be raising the temperature and humidity of the room the tent sits in, therefore rasing the temp and humidity in the tent and so on.

Once attaching a proper sized carbon filter to the fan, as well as any ducting, the fans cfm rating will drop by a good 25% to 30%+ and if you have any 90° or any real bends in your ducting, your fans cfm ratung will be cut by 50%++ so straight a run as possible. Also, use oversized insulated ducting. The larger than needed diameter won't impeded airflow as badly meaning better performance from your fan, as well as cutting diwn on the noise from the air "wooshing" around in the ducting and at it's exit, and because it is insulated you don't have to worry about radiant heat transferring from the ducting back into the ambient room/tent.

I've got some reading material for you in a moment but let's start here...

1) Size and highest temperature and lowest temperature of room you plan to place your 3x3 tent in

2) Wattage of grow light and type (L.E.D./H.I.D./CMH/Fluoro etc.)

3) Max and Min desired temperarures in tent with lights on and off. Tdiff.
Wow, that’s a lot to take in! But seriously, thanks a lot; it has pretty much answered all my Q’s

Have a good One

RW
 
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