SuperSkunk Manifold

[H.A.F.]

i have read both nebula and nugbuckets tutorials on manifold/mainline, both were good reads.

i was thinking i would take the nugbuckets approach and top for 8 colas

BUT it looks like you have topped for 16?

Nope! I hate scrogs, but if you read above I explained it better. Basically doing a scrog without a net. I tried random stuff on each limb, a couple got topped (like for 16) because one end of the plant was growing noticeably faster. I figured it would slow them down, so the rest could catch up, but also that they were "built" to feed the extra cola.

The rest of that is just leaving some inboard sprouts on the stems.

 

[H.A.F.]

I want to see if there is a noticeable difference in density, weight, etc from one technique to the other before popping my lone NL seed.

ILGM seeds had a 10+10free deal and I got Superskunk. They also have a guarantee on the seeds. If they don't pop, they'll replace them free.

I was just getting started and killed 6 (main reason why I came up with my germ/seedling method) but they replaced them.

Seeds are in 5-packs, so the replacements could be 6 of any (same price) seed, or 5 and 1. I got 5 GDP and 1 NL. all fem.

So I grew another skunk just to practice stuff before popping the NL - and also the reason for my cloning experiment.

 

[H.A.F.]

Lights come on in a few and I'm watering, which probably means more pruning... So far, if I add the exact amount (5ml/gl) of cal-mag to my RO water the pH ends up perfect.

Tip, so that you know when your pH meter needs calibrating, just "check" your calibration solution to see if it reads right before each feeding I don't bother for watering's in between, but once a week isn't too much of a chore.

 

[H.A.F.]

I have read both nebula and nugbuckets tutorials on manifold/mainline, both were good reads.

The only thing they really don't touch on is the pruning that is done between getting the manifold "set" and when it get's tall enough to flip. I've been doing quick grows and pretty much flipping as soon as the topping on the ends grows out a bit.

Based on my plant I would have 8 Christmas trees if I just "let it grow" until each limb was about a foot tall.

 

[diggs99]

The only thing they really don't touch on is the pruning that is done between getting the manifold "set" and when it get's tall enough to flip. I've been doing quick grows and pretty much flipping as soon as the topping on the ends grows out a bit.

Based on my plant I would have 8 Christmas trees if I just "let it grow" until each limb was about a foot tall.

Those were kinda my thoughts aswell. Im not seeing the need to grow each limb out too long. I think , like you, i would prefer a quicker grow and flip once the newest tops show growth

 

[H.A.F.]

Pruned a few hidden shoots, but nothing near any top. The lower left in that pic is where my 2 toppings were. quicker growth there and a lot of LST.

One was perfect

One I topped a node higher or something and it's crazy, but all stems are fat.

 

[diggs99]

jeez that thing has some beefy stock goin on

 

[H.A.F.]

Manifold and "lefty" from last grow. Left one broke off when I was training the first sprouts. I debated trashing it, but when it eventually hermied 6 weeks into flower I got a few ounces out of it.

 

[H.A.F.]

jeez that thing has some beefy stock goin on

I think that is from the 60-day slow-veg. If so, I like it too

I actually started this seed when my plant above broke and was debating trashing it. That was the only reason it veged so long, but it might be worked into future plans.

 

[H.A.F.]

As for the clones, they've been In 18/6 for a while now. I guess this is a good sign? They were taken in flower and had to revert to veg, but this is just strange looking in a weird good way.

The other one is starting to pump out ugly deformed leaves like the first one did.

Just the fact that I don't know how long these will take leans me towards popping a seed.

 

[H.A.F.]

6 hours apart.

 

[Tiflis]

Manifold and "lefty" from last grow. Left one broke off when I was training the first sprouts. I debated trashing it, but when it eventually hermied 6 weeks into flower I got a few ounces out of it.View attachment 4268125

I'm curious about the final weight of the plant that didn't herm.
It's amazing what these plants are capable of doing

 

[H.A.F.]

I just had my morning "budder" and figured I'd talk about saving weed.
I was debating between a Volcano vape, and a Ardent Nova decarb contraption. My 'discretionary' funds allowed either the Nova ($200) or the vape ($4-500) a few months later. I'm impatient, and glad!

I am retired, and like the moniker says, stay H.A.F. pretty much only when I'm not sleeping. Growing your own is great for getting better potency, but I was still going through between a quarter and a half bag a week. After reading about the Nova, (the 'Lift' is the exact same as the Nova, but for 'oregano' in non-legal states ) and the fact that it never gets above 120 degrees, and that it was a controlled set of cycles and has sensors to adjust the time needed based on weight.

Amazing. You can just eat the buds and be good. I only made budder to see about their claim that you could infuse in the same contraption after you decarb. Ran a batch with keif and a batch with flowers. Both good. But I won't be making any more unless it's for a recipe. It's an unnecessary added step. I made a batch of brownies, did half with the budder as a substitute for part of the oil, and some with regular batter, and the decarbed flowers just ground up in it - no difference.

Think about this. If your flower is 20% THC, that means that every gram contains 200mg of THC. If it is decarbed so you get 95%+ of that potency activated, you can get a 20mg (standard) dose with 1/10th of a gram of flower, and a 'couchlock' dose (even for a heavy-weight) with 50mg. It seems to last a lot longer than smoking or vaping, and you can tell a difference in the effects between different strains just like if you smoked it. Can you imagine decarbing a quarter bag and having it last for weeks?

I now separated all my flower stock into 'tops' & 'other', and the 'other is now all for decarb. Next harvest I am going to try drying all my sugar-trim and decarbing it, then doing a dry-rubbed keif.

 

[H.A.F.]

I'm curious about the final weight of the plant that didn't herm.
It's amazing what these plants are capable of doing

I have a degree in education, and a weird mind, so I like to use excel to track stuff. Here's the finals on the dried/almost cured harvest. The keif and hash are not added into the weight total. The hermied wan was full of sugar leaves. the "buds" are fat tops, there were none on the hermie. And those perfect 28g measurements are obviously not accidental. For me it means there was less than a quarter bag extra after it was sorted and put up for curing

I always peroxide wash my buds, (there's videos) because for dense buds it helps prevent molt/rot as it dries. Also gets any dust, cat hairs, whatever off the flowers. So after I cut and give them a trim, I weigh each limb before I wash it, and I label it. After the wash, I hang them in front of a fan and occasionally blot the bottoms with a paper towel to soak up the excess water until they get back to that original weight - then they go in my "humidor" closet (next post).

Also - when you dry flowers you will lose 80% of the weight - give or take. By weighing them each day, I can better determine when they are ready to get jarred. When they get to about 30% of their original weight I start checking the rH. As soon as the humidity is under 70% they go into jar-burp mode with a 62% boveda pack.

 

[H.A.F.]

@Tiflis I have an old cedar wardrobe (cedar is inherently bug and mold resistant) and I added an AC Infinity vent-fan (for electronics cabinets) to use as an exhaust. it is NOT smell proof LOL

I have put almost as much research into drying and curing as I have growing - because I'd hate to spend 4 months on something and see it wasted.

 

[Tiflis]

I bet all the hard work and thought you put into growing pays off every time you have a harvest
Would you say that washing in peroxide has no I'll effect on flavor/smell ?

 

[H.A.F.]

I bet all the hard work and thought you put into growing pays off every time you have a harvest
Would you say that washing in peroxide has no I'll effect on flavor/smell ?

Don't know if the link will work, but Jorge Cervantes describes it here. In answer to your question, think about f it rained just before you harvested your outdoor grow. It is mainly for if you notice signs of mildew, but outdoor growers may be washing off bird crap, dust and other junk too that you may have inside. The minimal amount of peroxide you add is just more oxygen. h2o + h2o2, but it has an antiseptic effect, and can get to things you may not have even noticed. And you are doing this on fresh-cut plants, like immediately after you cut them, or right after the trim if you don't have much to deal with. And the water shouldn't be cold either, or you are getting into bubble-hash territory and may lose goodies in the water.

My primary goal is to actually prevent mold in that first week of drying. That's why the fan until they are at their original weight or less. to make sure the added water is gone.

Anyway it is in the "can't hurt" category, so I tried it. I have noticed no loss of smell or effect.

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[Gollyboy]

Great thread I'm just starting my 1st now

 

[Tiflis]

Don't know if the link will work, but Jorge Cervantes describes it here

I've actually watched that video and tried doing it once, when my outdoor plant started to develop light blue patches, which I figured was PM. But I also had to chop early due to bud rot so I'm guessing that's why I lost some flavor/smell. I wasn't sure if it was the Hydrogen Peroxide that did it.
Thanks for your elaborate responses

 

[H.A.F.]

Great thread I'm just starting my 1st now

FYI - if you have any questions about the plant itself, I'm here. But I know zip about coco, soilless, auto-feed, DWC, or any other grow technique, so good luck! LOL

I was raised gardening, I like playing in dirt.