Whats this Deficiency?

T

TexadaTimewarp

Member
looking for some help.

Plants just switched to flower 1 week ago and now having these deficiencies show up. So annoying.

Growing in Soilless (Promix HP)
nutes for flower:
Grotek Solo Tek -Bloom
Grotek Vitamax Pro
Grotek LXR black
Green planet Massive ( not using yet)
Green plantet liquid W8 (not using yet)

Following custom feed chart watering every 3-4 days.

usually water feed water feed.

Been trying normal feed/half feed etc...

Also using RO water .... treated with cal mag to about 0.3 EC before adding nutes.

PPMs going in around 600-1000 on normal feed. PH 6.0-6.2

Tested runoff... all 8 plants were around 200 PPM and all had PH between 6-6.4. after 4days

I ALWAYS get burnt tips when i start flowering.. and then spreads to the edges.... over the years ive tried many different types of nutes and every time in flower this happens...

im thinking it could be my water.. at the tap it draws 600 PPM so i cannot use that on my plants. forced to use RO system but still feels like chemicals making its way through... (city water)

humidity/feed/PH/PPM/lights/temps/c02 levels all bang on. yet this happens everytime..

ive always been able to pull off successful harvests but i just dont understand whats happening here. what am i doing wrong?

I always thought of nute burn... but im guessing its always just been potassium deficiency....

any help appreciated .
 

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Last edited:
Blent

Blent

Well-Known Member
Imo you're over feeding. 1k ppm is massive. Those tips are 100% from nute burn. If you start with RO water I think you should be around the 600 ppm range.
 
T

TexadaTimewarp

Member
Blent said:
Imo you're over feeding. 1k ppm is massive. Those tips are 100% from nute burn. If you start with RO water I think you should be around the 600 ppm range.
Click to expand...
900- 1200 PPM in flowering is normal though?

I did 500-600PPM in veg and never got nute burn.

first few feedings in flower was running 500-600PPM and this all started from that.

its already been flushed and then fed 1/4 strength feed yet it got even worse.

fed at 500PPM tonight so will see how that goes.

Possible that excess cal from the cal mag affecting potassium uptake?
 
T

TexadaTimewarp

Member
thank you! im gonna give a quick watering in the morning with a little potassium additive. to get thay PH up.

Do you use RO with CAL MAG aswell?

Did you always think you had nute burn issues too?

thanks again


Renfro said:
Yes, I used to have the same problem until I went up and centered pH at 6.5 with Berger BM6 HP medium.
Click to expand...
 
Renfro

Renfro

Well-Known Member
I use RO water and Calimagic. I had these problems and for me bumping up the pH fixed it.

On a 30 gallon tank mix I use 100mL of calimagic.

I always get a tiny bit of leaf tip burn when I switch to flowering but it's very minor. My PPM after adding everything and adjusting pH is around 1250 PPM. My plants are pretty huge and they need the high feed rates.
 
Renfro

Renfro

Well-Known Member
This chart is my flowering feed mix for a 30 gallon tank of RO.

I use GH Flora 3 Part, Armor Si and Calimagic. I also add advanced nutrients B52 (not on the chart but I add 200 mL to the 30 gallon mix)
 

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Bernie420

Bernie420

Well-Known Member
TexadaTimewarp said:
looking for some help.

Plants just switched to flower 1 week ago and now having these deficiencies show up. So annoying.

Growing in Soilless (Promix HP)
nutes for flower:
Grotek Solo Tek -Bloom
Grotek Vitamax Pro
Grotek LXR black
Green planet Massive ( not using yet)
Green plantet liquid W8 (not using yet)

Following custom feed chart watering every 3-4 days.

usually water feed water feed.

Been trying normal feed/half feed etc...

Also using RO water .... treated with cal mag to about 0.3 EC before adding nutes.

PPMs going in around 1000 on normal feed. PH 6.0-6.2

Tested runoff... all 8 plants were around 200 PPM and all had PH between 6-6.4. after 4days

I ALWAYS get burnt tips when i start flowering.. and then spreads to the edges.... over the years ive tried many different types of nutes and every time in flower this happens...

im thinking it could be my water.. at the tap it draws 600 PPM so i cannot use that on my plants. forced to use RO system but still feels like chemicals making its way through... (city water)

humidity/feed/PH/PPM/lights/temps/c02 levels all bang on. yet this happens everytime..

ive always been able to pull off successful harvests but i just dont understand whats happening here. what am i doing wrong?

I always thought of nute burn... but im guessing its always just been potassium deficiency....

any help appreciated .
Click to expand...

I ALWAYS get burnt tips when i start flowering.. and then spreads to the edges.... over the years ive tried many different types of nutes and every time in flower this happens... whats the ppm of the last week in veg and you jump it up to what? Thats why you get burnt tips first week of flower.



im thinking it could be my water.. at the tap it draws 600 PPM so i cannot use that on my plants. forced to use RO system but still feels like chemicals making its way through... (city water) Whats the ppm of the RO water before you add anything?

Tested runoff... all 8 plants were around 200 PPM and all had PH between 6-6.4. after 4days Testing ppm when doing a flush or to see how hot the pot is, is ok, testing ph in the runoff is silly


PPMs going in around 1000 on normal feed. PH 6.0-6.2 For the first weeek of flower that is too hot. Excessive salts will kill the microbe population and restric plant growth. Start the first week of flower at the same ppm as the last week of veg, go up 50ppms each week for 4-5 weeks then drop back down 50ppms each week

Get a microbe product and use it once a week research what microbes do.
Plant look like its at the beginning of a mag deficiency add epsom salt at about 50-60ppms to see if it helps adjust from there.
 
Bernie420

Bernie420

Well-Known Member
TexadaTimewarp said:
thank you! im gonna give a quick watering in the morning with a little potassium additive. to get thay PH up.

Do you use RO with CAL MAG aswell?

Did you always think you had nute burn issues too?

thanks again
Click to expand...
measure this additive in ppms at about 50-60 ppms and adjust from there. I dont see anywhere on your plants you need to do this though
 
T

TexadaTimewarp

Member
I just seen your set up. very impressive.

Im okay with some tip burn.. just when it spreads to the edges and then down the leafs its problem i dont want.

Going to up PH of my feed to 6.5 ,

maybe lower dose of cal mag from 5ml - gallon to 3ml a gallon.

also gonna work my way up slowly from 600 PPM and add as needed.

do you feed every water?


appreciate the help.


Renfro said:
I use RO water and Calimagic. I had these problems and for me bumping up the pH fixed it.

On a 30 gallon tank mix I use 100mL of calimagic.

I always get a tiny bit of leaf tip burn when I switch to flowering but it's very minor. My PPM after adding everything and adjusting pH is around 1250 PPM. My plants are pretty huge and they need the high feed rates.
Click to expand...
 
T

TexadaTimewarp

Member
ppm in veg 500-600. but first 2 feeds in flower were around 600ppm. (tried to ease it in)

PPM of RO water is around 20 PPM. after calmag around 200-250

i tested run off during a flush as i suspected nute burn or PH problems . just fed few days earlier so i noticed they were eating and substate definately wasnt hot.

ill definately work my way up from around 600 PPM now. i did 2 feedings around there but seems like my last feed around 1k was way to much .

i was thinking about get some epsom to have on hand. figured i had enough from the cal.mag though.

thanks for the insight . appreciate the help!

Bernie420 said:
I ALWAYS get burnt tips when i start flowering.. and then spreads to the edges.... over the years ive tried many different types of nutes and every time in flower this happens... whats the ppm of the last week in veg and you jump it up to what? Thats why you get burnt tips first week of flower.



im thinking it could be my water.. at the tap it draws 600 PPM so i cannot use that on my plants. forced to use RO system but still feels like chemicals making its way through... (city water) Whats the ppm of the RO water before you add anything?

Tested runoff... all 8 plants were around 200 PPM and all had PH between 6-6.4. after 4days Testing ppm when doing a flush or to see how hot the pot is, is ok, testing ph in the runoff is silly


PPMs going in around 1000 on normal feed. PH 6.0-6.2 For the first weeek of flower that is too hot. Excessive salts will kill the microbe population and restric plant growth. Start the first week of flower at the same ppm as the last week of veg, go up 50ppms each week for 4-5 weeks then drop back down 50ppms each week

Get a microbe product and use it once a week research what microbes do.
Plant look like its at the beginning of a mag deficiency add epsom salt at about 50-60ppms to see if it helps adjust from there.
Click to expand...
 
Renfro

Renfro

Well-Known Member
TexadaTimewarp said:
i use to water feed water feed etc.. always because "burnt tips" always made me feel like i was nute burning them. but it seemed n
after only water days... deficiences got worse from lack of nutes or stress.
Click to expand...
Yeah my plants don't tolerate a watering without feed. They are hungry, but I also have their metabolism cranked up with higher temps and CO2.
 
Bernie420

Bernie420

Well-Known Member
TexadaTimewarp said:
ppm in veg 500-600. but first 2 feeds in flower were around 600ppm. (tried to ease it in)

PPM of RO water is around 20 PPM. after calmag around 200-250

i tested run off during a flush as i suspected nute burn or PH problems . just fed few days earlier so i noticed they were eating and substate definately wasnt hot.

ill definately work my way up from around 600 PPM now. i did 2 feedings around there but seems like my last feed around 1k was way to much .

i was thinking about get some epsom to have on hand. figured i had enough from the cal.mag though.

thanks for the insight . appreciate the help!
Click to expand...
Right on I like to clean my r/o carbon filter and the paper filter with a sprayer every so often. The green carbon filter should be replaced every 6 months or so maybe same with the paper but that could go longer as its only paper. The membrane they say every year but I go by when my RO water reads 150ppms time to start looking for some money to replace and if it get to 200 ppms time to replace.

When you have new filters in all take notice of how much water (flow rate) is coming into the r/o barrel. Later if you notice the holding barrel for the r/o isnt flowing as strong or takes longer to fill then you need to look at the green carbon filter to be replaced= most likely the culprit.
 
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