foliage2018
Well-Known Member
Yes, it is in a different room. No need to run coolers as here is winter time.
PH rise, EC rise, less water usage
- Thread starter foliage2018
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rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
@foliage2018
hey, one thing i thought about was your technical grade peroxide. what chemicals are in it? and are those safe to be smoking or ingesting when you harvest?
food grade would obviously be safe for human consumption.
hey, one thing i thought about was your technical grade peroxide. what chemicals are in it? and are those safe to be smoking or ingesting when you harvest?
food grade would obviously be safe for human consumption.
shawnery
Well-Known Member
As long as it's the same thing that's in store-bought you'll be fine. People will argue that it's not good for the plant but I've used it in a past grow and I had no problems with it at all. I mean shit people have been brushing their teeth and whatever else with hydrogen peroxide forever.
Of course this is not scientifically backed up at all. Just that but in the seat kind of feel if you know what I mean.
Of course this is not scientifically backed up at all. Just that but in the seat kind of feel if you know what I mean.
shawnery
Well-Known Member
I just did some research and if that's around 34 percent technical grade hydrogen peroxide the only difference I could find was that food grade needs to be tested each time it's transferred from one container to the other in technical grade does not. Not sure if that can be backed up by any research or not but that's what I have found.. does it have a list of any stabilizers that are used in it because if it has them it should list them
foliage2018
Well-Known Member
They claim it's 30-35% hydrogen peroxide. No other substances.
foliage2018
Well-Known Member
What you guys think about that idea to put smartpots inside hydroponic net pots to eliminate a risk of roots sitting in the water? Will be there enough space for roots if I want to veg them for 2 weeks and 27inch tall?
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
the only mistake you made was following directions from AN. if you kept using your bennies, you would have been fine.
Skybound420
Well-Known Member
Putting fabric pots inside your buckets will only hold back the roots for a while, then they'll grow right through. Do you have an airstone under each pot? I think your system is about the same as Dutch buckets or Bato buckets more or less in that all sites are supplied by one master and all sites each have a sump, except those buckets are filled with perlite and it feeds with a top drip. The reason those are successful is because of the sump and the plants being able to leach nutes when not being fed and over time, those roots will empty those sumps, but to my knowledge, they don't use air stones under each site so IDK how they're able to prevent root rot?
Question, does your system periodically raise the nute water up into the root zone for a while, then lower the level back down to a minimum point? I suspect that your sites are getting stagnant as you mentioned, but I think adding an air stone under each site (in the sumps) will add needed O2 to the roots. Another possible modification might be to transform your system to an RDWC which involves the water always circulating to all sites. Though RDWC might be even harder to control.
IMO, the deeper you get into hydro, the better the results can be, but the harder it is to keep all things ideal.
Question, does your system periodically raise the nute water up into the root zone for a while, then lower the level back down to a minimum point? I suspect that your sites are getting stagnant as you mentioned, but I think adding an air stone under each site (in the sumps) will add needed O2 to the roots. Another possible modification might be to transform your system to an RDWC which involves the water always circulating to all sites. Though RDWC might be even harder to control.
IMO, the deeper you get into hydro, the better the results can be, but the harder it is to keep all things ideal.
foliage2018
Well-Known Member
Hmmmm... my system is designed to be filled and drained by one common hose. Each bucket is connected to the hose via T-connector. When the water is draining out of the bucket, there is approximately 300ml of water left in the bucket. As there stays a low volume of water it gets a lot of heat from the air. There are no air stones in each bucket, but I am able to improve it. I don't want to switch to RDWC - the main reason is that I won't be able to cool water properly (700l of water when the system is fully flooded).
I have to find a solution for the next grow. Chlorine (sterile) way would be the best. I also found Hydroguard on the British market, but will it be helpful in my case?
I have to find a solution for the next grow. Chlorine (sterile) way would be the best. I also found Hydroguard on the British market, but will it be helpful in my case?
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
i dont' think you there is a blame or fault in your system. like i said in an earlier post, i 99% beilieve that if you continued the AN bacteria, you wouldn't be in this situation.
with the size of your system, i think the cheapest way would be to use hth pool shock. i can't imagine the 1LB bag costing more than 20 Euros and that would last you 2 years by my figuring.
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
that stuff is good and cheap and works great. don't think it is over where he is though
foliage2018
Well-Known Member
I will buy that Botanicare Hydroguard from UK for the next grow. 1gal bottle for 100USD + shipping. It is way cheaper than all that stuff from AN. If any problem will occur with the roots (first sign of brown roots or whatever), I would switch to sterile way immediately.
Update: EC stable, PH fell down by 0,1, water consumption +- the same, but leaves are still getting worse.
Is living root mass equal to water consumption? Why are those leaves still dying if the system looks stable?
And I have to say something: I VERY appreciate your help. I am that type of man who never ever take advices from anybody. This is a whole new experience for me, some kind of lesson for life. Thank you.
Update: EC stable, PH fell down by 0,1, water consumption +- the same, but leaves are still getting worse.
Is living root mass equal to water consumption? Why are those leaves still dying if the system looks stable?
And I have to say something: I VERY appreciate your help. I am that type of man who never ever take advices from anybody. This is a whole new experience for me, some kind of lesson for life. Thank you.
Budley Doright
Well-Known Member
I used hydroguard until it was banned here after I got the rot using bennies. It brought a run back from the dead after trying both H2O2 and bleach. Unfortunately there are no hydro specific products here that I can get, I’ve tried. What I did find in my set up which is netpot FD was keeping ph low and chilling the water kept roots healthy. I also turn the system to a recirc once roots become a thick mat, I also use waterfalls. I run in covered deep trays. Be careful buying hydroguard online as it has a expiry date but if it truly is hydroguard then you will be happily surprised at its positive effects. The one issue with flood and drain that I had was the temps in the root zone when not flooded would climb pretty quic so I covered the lids with reflective bubble wrap. When ever I see the slightest blotching of the leaves I ask for pics of the roots and 99% of the time it’s a root issue in a flooded system.
shawnery
Well-Known Member
It all goes full circle and in a little bit it will be your turn.
foliage2018
Well-Known Member
I just checked my ladies and the res. Res PH is 5,9-6 (skipping from 5,9 to 6,0 and back - so it could be 5,95). But I noticed significant increase in humidity in the grow room (from 45 yesterday to 52 today). And...! new white roots coming out of the old ones. Does it mean the plants started to evaporate water again?