Organic Gypsum Powder Calcium Sulfate Fertilizer

wompaa

Active Member
Help understanding the quick release and slow release calcium options we have.

I've done some google searches and thought gypsum is slow release ? but calcium sulphate is quick release.


What is this stuff please ? anyone used it or seen it before.






thanks
wompaa the great

 

waktoo

Well-Known Member
Gypsum and calcium sulfate are the same thing, and in a chemical sense are "moderately" soluble in water.

The finer grind (like the example you've provided) is "quick release". The chunkier stuff available is "slow release", as the particles size provides less surface area for the water to effectively solubilize the qypsum into its ionic (plant available) components.
 

wompaa

Active Member
Gypsum and calcium sulfate are the same thing, and in a chemical sense are "moderately" soluble in water.

The finer grind (like the example you've provided) is "quick release". The chunkier stuff available is "slow release", as the particles size provides less surface area for the water to effectively solubilize the qypsum into its ionic (plant available) components.
you just explained it all thank you, that makes total sense, i bought some rockdust minerals to boost the brix levels, but it took longer to break down because of the big stones, so same thing.









thank you, i love you
 

wompaa

Active Member
cal mag sorted ... anyone disagree or agree ?

This canna stuff 1-2 ml per liter !








This half tsp per gallon ? anyone confirm this please ?
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
cal mag sorted ... anyone disagree or agree ?

This canna stuff 1-2 ml per liter !








This half tsp per gallon ? anyone confirm this please ?
It's going to hard to tell how much you need, if any, without a soil test. That would be a guideline on how much to use. Otherwise, I don't anyone could honestly answer your question. Sorry, I'm not trying to be like that. Mehlich 3 tests are only $25, solubility tests are $30.
 

wompaa

Active Member
It's going to hard to tell how much you need, if any, without a soil test. That would be a guideline on how much to use. Otherwise, I don't anyone could honestly answer your question. Sorry, I'm not trying to be like that. Mehlich 3 tests are only $25, solubility tests are $30.
The calcium says 1-2ml per litre, so if my soil only takes 1 litre then this is right right ?

Like a pot of soil with enough soil in to take 10 liters until runs outta them bottom needs 10-20ml
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
The calcium says 1-2ml per litre, so if my soil only takes 1 litre then this is right right ?

Like a pot of soil with enough soil in to take 10 liters until runs outta them bottom needs 10-20ml
I'm not trying to be a hard-ass but it is very difficult to diagnose soil problems. Everyone will say something different and opinions will be through the roof. Someone might be right, but 80% are going to be wrong. Leaf diagnosis is very hard also.

Most of my problems have come from micronutirient deficiency. If you used rock dust, I bet that your Mg and Ca levels are fine. I never got a full spectrum of trace elements from kelp and rock dusts.
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
I misdiagnosed a nutrient def for a N def. The leaves were going pale and the last thing that I would have guessed is something like zinc or manganese.

The function of zinc is to help the plant produce chlorophyll. Leaves discolor when the soil is deficient in zinc and plant growth is stunted. Zinc deficiencycauses a type of leaf discoloration called chlorosis, which causes the tissue between the veins to turn yellow while the veins remain green.
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
I would hate to see you add something that you dont need. If you want to add Mg, use rock dust and get a boost in trace elements too. Even Kelp has Mg in it
 

Uncle Reefer

Well-Known Member
cal mag sorted ... anyone disagree or agree ?

This canna stuff 1-2 ml per liter !








This half tsp per gallon ? anyone confirm this please ?


You are on the right track, Figure out the cal to mag ratio you are after, between 6-1 to 1-1 depending on what school you are in. Mix your solution to between .2 and .4 ec. This work out for me a heaping teaspoon of 11-0-0 Calcium nitrate based granular fert and a heaping teaspoon of Epsom salts per 20-25 gallons. That ground up drywall is good for the garden but why would you pay for used drywall? Use the drywall in your ornamental garden, not your medicinal garden
 

wompaa

Active Member
You are on the right track, Figure out the cal to mag ratio you are after, between 6-1 to 1-1 depending on what school you are in. Mix your solution to between .2 and .4 ec. This work out for me a heaping teaspoon of 11-0-0 Calcium nitrate based granular fert and a heaping teaspoon of Epsom salts per 20-25 gallons. That ground up drywall is good for the garden but why would you pay for used drywall? Use the drywall in your ornamental garden, not your medicinal garden
Thxs for the info mister

I was reading about drywall because it's made with lime ? gypsum calcium stuff, i got what i need now for the cal/mag shit
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
Ca, Mg, and K all have an antagonist relationship with each other. Too much of one will drive the others into lockout.
Drywall has been superheated and is no good for soil i heard.

Honesly unless theyve added something to gypsum.... Its got to be organic, they just dont advertise because thats like picking up a fucking rock outide and slapping an organic sticker on it and selling it to growers for 100x the price.

Gypsum comes out of the ground and gets crushed .

Different size particles and even some rewetted and formed into granular balls for slow release.

Im not telling you mess up your game plan but honestly, the organic trademark is a money racket . Do your dudiligence and learn where each of your inputs cone from and if they add anything .
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
I bought powder gypsum from the brew store. I think it was 10-15$/lb

Got this bag 8kg bag from the garden supply down the road.

If you dont like granular, use a sledgehammer or just wet and dry it back into a powder.

Or dissolve and water in when you wet your meterial.

Where theres a will, theres a way bud.
 

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OzCocoLoco

Well-Known Member
Drywall has been superheated and is no good for soil i heard.

Honesly unless theyve added something to gypsum.... Its got to be organic, they just dont advertise because thats like picking up a fucking rock outide and slapping an organic sticker on it and selling it to growers for 100x the price.

Gypsum comes out of the ground and gets crushed .

Different size particles and even some rewetted and formed into granular balls for slow release.

Im not telling you mess up your game plan but honestly, the organic trademark is a money racket . Do your dudiligence and learn where each of your inputs cone from and if they add anything .
The Gypsum used in Gyprock (drywall) is a synthetic form made from the left over residue in air scrubbers at coal fired power plants.
 
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