Aussie Growers Thread

Lucky Luke

Well-Known Member
I’m thinking I gotta start putting up pics of plants with mites and deficiency problems to get more likes. The day to day photo of my grow has become the norm it seems :dunce:
You are a photo fiend, its your generation though.
Back in the day I had to take a photo, wait till the film was used up and then take the film to the Chemist and wait 14 days for it to get developed and come back and pick it up from the chemist...
And it was expensive.
 

2easy

Well-Known Member
You are a photo fiend, its your generation though.
Back in the day I had to take a photo, wait till the film was used up and then take the film to the Chemist and wait 14 days for it to get developed and come back and pick it up from the chemist...
And it was expensive.

haha yep. i used to take my disposable camera full of photos of my outdoor plants. nobody ever batted an eyelid though so i guess it was all good
 

yummy fur

Well-Known Member
Mostly because soil has micro organisms that change and buffer the ph constantly where as hydro does not. It’s recommended that you let full hydro system ph float a little bit so you get a range of ph’s. Ie if you notice your ph rises after a few days start a little lower at say 5.6ish and let it walk up to 6.2ish before adjusting back down. But that’s mostly for guys who aren’t pushing the limits with their feed levels and are generally using those expensive meters that are accurate to 2 dp’s.

The beauty of the drops I find is that they allow a little bit of fluctuation but keep it well within range.

As for the hydro shop meter shit, have a look what they charge for base model blue lab or Milwaukee meters often 2-300% markup and bluelabs a New Zealand company ffs.


Also I believe the link thing has to do with how much rep your profile has received from other users not how long you’ve been around, could be wrong though.
Yeah it was only, the time, everything else was well over. But I'm good to go now. When I give advice or opinions about growing the sacred herb, do remember that I'm not talking to experienced growers who will want to do their own research, I'm mainly talking to bewildered newbies to this, who's eyeballs pop out when they see cola pr0n and don't know what it what or which is why. So I fully agree with you that the indicator drops are quite good, precisely because you can't tell a .1 or .2 difference here or there. Everything always has a context.

I get it that people here know what they are doing, and robust discussion of ideas do not have to be a battleground.

Regarding coming across as a smart ass, I know that when I am talking about the one subject that I am an expert in which is my work to do with sex, as irksome as it may be to people, I know what I know. Believe me when I say I've been talking to academics about this for the past eight years as I am not going to be able to get this knowledge out through a brick wall, so being aware of this I've adopted all different strategies. I've used colloquial language, I've given them the 'respect' that I feel they need, I've been humorous, I've been serious, I've met them on every level that they require. It doesn't matter. So in the end I have given up trying to work out how to get this stuff across.

You may wonder why I bother and that is an excellent question. It's because I see it as a duty. While it may sound like I'm claiming this knowledge as something that I've done, I recognise that all the tools that enabled it to evolve, were given. All the circumstances and people who pushed back, all the resources, all the tools that somehow magically appeared right when I needed them, were give. In reality, "I" didn't do anything. I just follow the breadcrumb trail.

But this knowledge is not an academic knowledge, it's for everyone. I'm 62 now but I don't feel much different to when I was growing up in Daceyville and riding my bicycle to SSBHS, with no hands all the way home. And I sometimes imagine, what if I knew what I know now, then. And I try and put myself in the position I was in then and be me in the future giving me advice. Because to find this knowledge out, the journey and road I travelled...well let's just say that when it was all going on before I knew what exactly was going on, there were times of great suffering and terror. I'm pretty relaxed about it all now, but it's like climbing the south face of Mount Everest in the winter.

The following is my attitude even to discussing technical stuff like LED lighting...

The Nyaya school identified various types of arguments that hindered or obstructed the path of genuine scientific pursuit, suggesting perhaps, that there may have been considerable practical resistance to their unstinting devotion to truth-seeking and scientific accuracy.They list the terms...


jalpa - an argument not for the sake of arriving at the truth but for the sake of seeking victory (this term was coined perhaps to distinguish exaggerated and rhetorical arguments, or hyperbole from genuine arguments);


vitanda (or cavil) to identify arguments that were specious or frivolous, or intended to divert attention from the substance of the debate, that were put-downs intended to lower the dignity or credibility of the opponent; and


chal - equivocation or ruse to confuse the argument.



Three types of chal are listed:



vakchala - or verbal equivocation where the words of the opponent are deliberately misused to mean or suggest something different than what was intended;


samanyachala or false generalization, where the opponents arguments are deliberately and incorrectly generalized in a way to suggest that the original arguments were ridiculous or absurd;


uparachala - misinterpreting a word which is used figuratively by taking it literally.



Also mentioned is jati, a type of fallacious argument where an inapplicable similiarity is cited to reject an argument, or conversely an irrelevant dissimiliarity is cited to reject an argument.
 

Bongsmoke420

Well-Known Member
You are a photo fiend, its your generation though.
Back in the day I had to take a photo, wait till the film was used up and then take the film to the Chemist and wait 14 days for it to get developed and come back and pick it up from the chemist...
And it was expensive.
Hahaha I know, def my generation, while all my friends are fiening Facebook or ig I’m on here lol getting my fix we are slaves to our devices
 

Lucky Luke

Well-Known Member
I gave my dad and my sister about 3/4 of a bag Wednesday night.
Text msg from my sister just now
"Dad has almost used up all butter I brought and the smoke you gave him. He will probably need a smoke when he gets to yours to keep him going for the rest of the arvo"
Fk me he is in his late seventies..SMH.
 

yummy fur

Well-Known Member
On ph meters i say fuck bluelab. Overpriced garbage in my opinion.
I got sick of having the calibration on them go all fuckey and they wouldnt calibrate correctly.
Happened 3 times to me in a very short period so i switched to the el cheapo ph meters. Never been happier.
Keep the probe clean with a toothbrush. Store the probe in clean tap water and calibrate regularly.

I also have 3 on hand at any time. 1 is my daily driver. Another calibrated one which i use once weekly to see if the calibration has drifted on the daily driver and a third in case one of ghe other 2 dies. Still miles cheaper than a bluelab
All I would add to that is that during my research on this on technical forums, I discovered two things, 1. distilled water will wreck your meter, and 2. the probe if it cannot be stored in specialised solution the next best thing to store your probe in is the used pH 7 buffer solution that you used to calibrate it. I think failing that the next best was tap water.
 

giglewigle

Well-Known Member
yes and please do not ever do that to your bud. good for mushrooms though
I wouldent just getting the shits at how many scams there are like my mum makes candles n batch bins n all that shit u can get all the shit allready like I bet that think is more expensive than a food dehydrator n it’s got one seething I think ripp off
 

giglewigle

Well-Known Member
All I would add to that is that during my research on this on technical forums, I discovered two things, 1. distilled water will wreck your meter, and 2. the probe if it cannot be stored in specialised solution the next best thing to store your probe in is the used pH 7 buffer solution that you used to calibrate it. I think failing that the next best was tap water.
I don’t even store my probe in any thing don’t even have to calibrate it all that mutch
 

2easy

Well-Known Member
All I would add to that is that during my research on this on technical forums, I discovered two things, 1. distilled water will wreck your meter, and 2. the probe if it cannot be stored in specialised solution the next best thing to store your probe in is the used pH 7 buffer solution that you used to calibrate it. I think failing that the next best was tap water.
yeah i basically just rinse them off with tap water and then store with the cap on so they cant dry out. its not really submerged in tap. havnt had an issue this way. they do drift in calibration, i find im calibrating every 3 or 4 weeks but im kind of anal on PH. in case having 3 PH meters on hand at all times wasnt a giveaway of that
 

reza92

Well-Known Member
Just the Kalvin of the lights. There full veg and not full spectrum. If you have a look at that last plant pic its only yellowish were the LED light falls on it, green as the other parts.

That probably a magnesium issue from the leds. I find I have to supplement mag every feed with my led lights to keep them green where as my 4 x t5 light only needs mag 1-2 times a week.
 

Rowdybuds

Well-Known Member
ok straight up front. i have not looked into the f series before this so id recommend jumping on the led section and asking those guys before you pull the trigger.

but if i was building it and ordering tonight id use the hlg-480h-24A
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=HLG-480H-24A

id use the A series because youll need to keed the current under 18A (id max it at 16 more than 18 can blow the strips) and the voltage at 24v.

also consider checking out http://ledgardener.com/diy-led-strip-build-designs-samsung-bridgelux/#

or the hlg-320h-24A
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/mean-well-usa-inc/HLG-320H-24B/1866-2475-ND/7704033

which you can max out and still be under driving the strips no issues for 320Wish at the wall

also consider checking out http://ledgardener.com/diy-led-strip-build-designs-samsung-bridgelux/#
thanks mate had a look all the info i need is there.
 

Lucky Luke

Well-Known Member
That probably a magnesium issue from the leds. I find I have to supplement mag every feed with my led lights to keep them green where as my 4 x t5 light only needs mag 1-2 times a week.
all good mate. Their green as under other lights. People said the exact same thing last summer...haha. Its just the Kalvin.
 
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reza92

Well-Known Member
On ph meters i say fuck bluelab. Overpriced garbage in my opinion.
I got sick of having the calibration on them go all fuckey and they wouldnt calibrate correctly.
Happened 3 times to me in a very short period so i switched to the el cheapo ph meters. Never been happier.
Keep the probe clean with a toothbrush. Store the probe in clean tap water and calibrate regularly.

I also have 3 on hand at any time. 1 is my daily driver. Another calibrated one which i use once weekly to see if the calibration has drifted on the daily driver and a third in case one of ghe other 2 dies. Still miles cheaper than a bluelab
For hobby shit blue lab is definitely over priced. Also their cheapest metre is shit IMO because the probe can’t be replaced without sending it back (the old style could but they stopped selling those years ago). If I started running a full house full hydro like dwc etc I’d be using a Milwaukee with replaceable probes, calibrating once a week and checking urge calibration daily. But while I’m small the drops are plenty good enough for me.
 
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