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[wietefras]

@wietefras maybe?

Unfortunately it's not yet available on the engine calculator: https://www.samsung.com/led/support/tools/engine-calculator/

But the simulator for the SMD component leds would indicate a jump from 176lm/W to 188lm/W

Both strips have 8 series in parallel and then the series are 8 or 11 leds depending on led count (64 vs 88 in total). So you would run them at 1.05A/11=0,095A instead of 1.43A/11 = 0.13A (same as 1A/8=0.13A for the strip with less leds).

 

[Randomblame]

So ones with more diodes are actually more efficient at 1.05A, than ones with less diodes. Can anyone give me numbers for 1.05A please? I cannot find those strips in calculator.

From DK:
- SL-B8V2N80LAWW at 1A is 178 lm/W
- SL-B8V3N80LAWW at 1.43A is 176 lm/W ----> at 1.05A is how much?

F's are 168 lm/W at 1.12A. I want the best of the best, price range is not that much different, maybe 50€.

Maybe @Randomblame could come in?

Sorry for the delay! Too much alerts these days.
If you want the best of the best in 4ft length you should take 4ft. Q-series strips. They use top bin LM301b and use a 16s5p circuit and run with only 450mA(20w) or 90mA per diode. 198lm/w in 3500°k! Drive them at 350mA(15w) and you get +200lm/w or up to 220 when you use 4000°k. 3000°k is 187lm/w at 450mA and should be +195lm/w @350mA.
30w/sft. should be enough with such an efficient system.
When upfront costs are not a problem I would prefer 4ft. Q-series driven at 350mA. 75% 3000°k + 25% 4000°k maybe..

We still have no answer from Samsung about the used binnings but when Q-series is 187lm/w at 450mA(90mA per diode in 3000°k) and it's the same binning H-influx at 1050mA(95mA) should be 186lm/w. Too get the same efficiency as from Q-series at 350mA(70mA per diode) you need to run the L06 strips at ~770mA. You need to compare how much Q- or H-influx strips you need and with which one it would be cheaper in the end. You need a few more Q-strips but they are a bit cheaper. If you need +25 with Q-series but only 20 with H-influx Q-series could be probably the better deal.

 

[herbs1]

Did you look at Mars COB? 105W draw power. It has no fan, so very quite. When I put it in the bedroom, I can still sleep very well

no. i didnt know mars sold cobs.

 

[hillbill]

That COB is the best a person could do if they insist on a Mars product.

 

[diyled]

Sorry for the delay! Too much alerts these days.
If you want the best of the best in 4ft length you should take 4ft. Q-series strips. They use top bin LM301b and use a 16s5p circuit and run with only 450mA(20w) or 90mA per diode. 198lm/w in 3500°k! Drive them at 350mA(15w) and you get +200lm/w or up to 220 when you use 4000°k. 3000°k is 187lm/w at 450mA and should be +195lm/w @350mA.
30w/sft. should be enough with such an efficient system.
When upfront costs are not a problem I would prefer 4ft. Q-series driven at 350mA. 75% 3000°k + 25% 4000°k maybe..

We still have no answer from Samsung about the used binnings but when Q-series is 187lm/w at 450mA(90mA per diode in 3000°k) and it's the same binning H-influx at 1050mA(95mA) should be 186lm/w. Too get the same efficiency as from Q-series at 350mA(70mA per diode) you need to run the L06 strips at ~770mA. You need to compare how much Q- or H-influx strips you need and with which one it would be cheaper in the end. You need a few more Q-strips but they are a bit cheaper. If you need +25 with Q-series but only 20 with H-influx Q-series could be probably the better deal.

Are the 4ft q series the eu or us version ? Got a digikey link for me please?

 

[Randomblame]

Are the 4ft q series the eu or us version ? Got a digikey link for me please?

It's digikey.de so I would say eu but part number is SI-B8V201B20"US" so that could be wrong.
What's the difference?

https://www.digikey.de/product-detail/de/samsung-semiconductor-inc/SI-B8V201B20US/1510-2289-ND/7562247

 

[KonopCh]

Sorry for the delay! Too much alerts these days.
If you want the best of the best in 4ft length you should take 4ft. Q-series strips. They use top bin LM301b and use a 16s5p circuit and run with only 450mA(20w) or 90mA per diode. 198lm/w in 3500°k! Drive them at 350mA(15w) and you get +200lm/w or up to 220 when you use 4000°k. 3000°k is 187lm/w at 450mA and should be +195lm/w @350mA.
30w/sft. should be enough with such an efficient system.
When upfront costs are not a problem I would prefer 4ft. Q-series driven at 350mA. 75% 3000°k + 25% 4000°k maybe..

We still have no answer from Samsung about the used binnings but when Q-series is 187lm/w at 450mA(90mA per diode in 3000°k) and it's the same binning H-influx at 1050mA(95mA) should be 186lm/w. Too get the same efficiency as from Q-series at 350mA(70mA per diode) you need to run the L06 strips at ~770mA. You need to compare how much Q- or H-influx strips you need and with which one it would be cheaper in the end. You need a few more Q-strips but they are a bit cheaper. If you need +25 with Q-series but only 20 with H-influx Q-series could be probably the better deal.

Sorry for late reply.
Thank you for your help!!

I try Sam.calculator with F's and at 450mA and 40°C they're 188.7 lm/W too.
I have one MW-240H-C1050A driver I want to use it for half a tent (whole tent is 4x4), so it would perfectly fit 5x F's in 1120mm. This is the reason why I asked about 1050mA, I guess H-influx is better than F's. However Q's don't go on this driver as max for this strips is 900mA.
Other option is 10x 560mm strips on that driver.

Hmmm... really can't decide which way to go.

 

[KonopCh]

What's max current with this one: SI-B8V201B20US
Can go with 1050mA MW driver (I think max of this driver is 5-8% more, so 1.1A)?

 

[Randomblame]

What's max current with this one: SI-B8V201B20US
Can go with 1050mA MW driver (I think max of this driver is 5-8% more, so 1.1A)?

Which one is it? Single or double row, 2 or 4ft.? I don't have all the part numbers in mind...
A 1050mA MW driver can go up to 1.160mA but not all of them.. but 1100mA for sure.

You could use two parallel strings with Q-series strips to run them @525-550mA each but you'd need twice as much Q-strips... You could use ten 4ft. Q-strips in 5s2p. If mounted one alu channels vf should be ~44v or 220v with 5 strips and output would be between 230-240w, ~250-260w at the wall.

 

[KonopCh]

Which one is it? Single or double row, 2 or 4ft.? I don't have all the part numbers in mind...
A 1050mA MW driver can go up to 1.160mA but not all of them.. but 1100mA for sure.

You could use two parallel strings with Q-series strips to run them @525-550mA each but you'd need twice as much Q-strips... You could use ten 4ft. Q-strips in 5s2p. If mounted one alu channels vf should be ~44v or 220v with 5 strips and output would be between 230-240w, ~250-260w at the wall.

LT-QB22A 3000K 1120mm, single row. I really want best strips for that driver (MW-H240-C1050A).
I cannot run 10x strips at 5s2p, driver max voltage is 238V, 10 strips would be 438V.

F's would be 175 lm/W, BLux gen2 little less I think... So what is left are Q's and H-influx.

 

[Randomblame]

LT-QB22A 3000K 1120mm, single row. I really want best strips for that driver (MW-H240-C1050A).
I cannot run 10x strips at 5s2p, driver max voltage is 238V, 10 strips would be 438V.

F's would be 175 lm/W, BLux gen2 little less I think... So what is left are Q's and H-influx.

Nope! 5s2p means 5 in series two times parallel(10 strips), thats ~44v per strip and ~220v total because 550mA is 100mA above nominal current(at 450mA its 43,2v) and with two of these stings in parallel (2p) each would run with 525-550mA. Would match perfect and leave only ~18-20v of head room. Maybe ~184lm/w in 3000°k...
You could add a few Cree XP-Es to each string to make use of it and max out the driver. 4x 660nm and 3x 730nm at 525-550mA would be ~16,2v or a bit less. When you add these to each side it would be ~236,2v and should still work like intended. You would have ~18w deep and far-red (7,5%) and the rest is ~242w warm white.


With F-strips you could use only 5 strips in one string and its still below nominal current but only a little and efficiency with 3000°k is ~170lm/w at 1100mA. Voltage would be ~230v. But you can do the same with F-strips. At 540mA each diode would run with ~60mA(9 parallel stings with 16 diodes each string, 144 diodes total) and you could use the numbers from LM561c datasheet(S6 flux, A1 voltage bin). And because F-strips have more diodes efficiency would be even better with F-series.

 

[Randomblame]

Q-series at 550mA means 110mA per diode and a LM561c at 60mA would have slightly better efficiency.

 

[KonopCh]

Nope! 5s2p means 5 in series two times parallel(10 strips), thats ~44v per strip and ~220v total because 550mA is 100mA above nominal current(at 450mA its 43,2v) and with two of these stings in parallel (2p) each would run with 525-550mA. Would match perfect and leave only ~18-20v of head room. Maybe ~184lm/w in 3000°k...
You could add a few Cree XP-Es to each string to make use of it and max out the driver. 4x 660nm and 3x 730nm at 525-550mA would be ~16,2v or a bit less. When you add these to each side it would be ~236,2v and should still work like intended. You would have ~18w deep and far-red (7,5%) and the rest is ~242w warm white.


With F-strips you could use only 5 strips in one string and its still below nominal current but only a little and efficiency with 3000°k is ~170lm/w at 1100mA. Voltage would be ~230v. But you can do the same with F-strips. At 540mA each diode would run with ~60mA(9 parallel stings with 16 diodes each string, 144 diodes total) and you could use the numbers from LM561c datasheet(S6 flux, A1 voltage bin). And because F-strips have more diodes efficiency would be even better with F-series.
View attachment 4200705

I think I will go that route, as 10x LT-QB22A is 145€ and 5x F's is 115€. 30€ difference for + 15 lm/W boost seems a good deal to me. 185 lm/W - this is 2.7 umol/s?
However... I don't know how to wire 5s2p on HLG-240H-C1050A? Any diagrams somewhere?
Another question would be, driven that low, do I need ALU U channels or just a two L-channels for support at each end?

 

[Randomblame]

="KonopCh, post: 14479918, member: 954861"]I think I will go that route, as 10x LT-QB22A is 145€ and 5x F's is 115€. 30€ difference for + 15 lm/W boost seems a good deal to me. 185 lm/W - this is 2.7 umol/s?
However... I don't know how to wire 5s2p on HLG-240H-C1050A? Any diagrams somewhere?
Another question would be, driven that low, do I need ALU U channels or just a two L-channels for support at each end?

Here is a screeny with this configs and Q-series.

Only 183 instead of the 184lm/w I've estimated. Conversion factor for LM301b in 3000°k should be around 70, so it's 2,615μMol/J(W). System effiency with 93% efficient driver would be 2,43μMol/J.

With 10 single row 4ft F-strips in 5s2p it would be 2,71 and 2,52μMol/J system efficiency.

To create a 5s2p circuit you need two 3slot Wago clamps. At first you connect 5 strips in serie, always +in/- out just like with COB's. Do this two times. Now take a Wago clamp for each end of the string and put the two + wires in one and the 2 - wires in the other Wago. Two slots are closed one is left. In this slots you connect the dc wires coming out of the driver. Again + to + and - to - and thats it. Two parallel strings on one driver!
If you plan to mount the driver remotely outside of the tent take AWG14 wires to elongate the wires from driver to the fixture/Wago's. For internal wiring strip to strip/strip to Wago you can use AWG18 or AWG20 single core wire.

I can do a sketch if you still need one..

Q-series at 450mA run at only 40°C with 25°C ambient ... without heatsink! I would say with 550mA you could still use them without and and get ~50°C at 30°C. You only need a frame with a few crossbars to support the strips.
However, to use a 1-2mm alusheet mounted to each half of the frame would improve cooling by a few percent and you would probably still get 40°C case temps at 550mA. 10°C less means +2% efficiency, so it's worth it IMO.

For aluminum I would call the next scrap yard first. You can save a lot of money when you get it per kilo or pound and usually they have a lot good stuff laying around.

 

[Randomblame]

And here a quick sketch.. Not nice but hopefully well enough to give an idea..

 

[KonopCh]

@Randomblame thank you very much for this information! They're golden, appreciate it.
Maybe you have numbers for H-influx? They're not available yet, right? Then I think I will go with 10x Q's as they're little cheaper than F's. I am okay with 183 lm/W, very nice light it will be.

About heatsinking... Flat ALU bar 25x2 mm will cool enough? Or better get with U channels 25x15x2 mm (more surface area, but it's worth it with 20W per strip?)?
I am worried about weight for those 10 heatsinks, plus I have some big ass heatsinks with Citizens mounted on it (2x 4kg heatsinks) for the other half of tent.

 

[KonopCh]

Bump.
Need to order ASAP.

 

[KonopCh]

Oh, and what is max voltage for these connectors on strips? I plan to fill about 350V in CC mode with them.

 

[Randomblame]

@Randomblame thank you very much for this information! They're golden, appreciate it.
Maybe you have numbers for H-influx? They're not available yet, right? Then I think I will go with 10x Q's as they're little cheaper than F's. I am okay with 183 lm/W, very nice light it will be.

About heatsinking... Flat ALU bar 25x2 mm will cool enough? Or better get with U channels 25x15x2 mm (more surface area, but it's worth it with 20W per strip?)?
I am worried about weight for those 10 heatsinks, plus I have some big ass heatsinks with Citizens mounted on it (2x 4kg heatsinks) for the other half of tent.

Flat alu bar is enough for strips at half current. Even without the stay probably below 60°C(with 30° ambient).
I would sell the massive heatsinks on e3ay and get a few U-channels instead. If you plan to drive them as low as 700mA(20w) each COB needs a 1' long piece of a 50x 50x 50x 2mm U-profile to stay below 60°C.
An 1120mm long U-channel(50x 50x 50mm) would be enough for 4 COBs and 80w. A 560mm long piece should be enough for 2 COBs. I've glued a smaller channel into a bigger channels to increase the cooling surface and it worked out great. I've 4 Blux V18 COB's @525mA and three far-red diodes on each bar(~75w per heatsink) and the heatsinks stay around 45°C with slight airflow inside the tent. COB's run probably at 60°C..


Thermal tape is perfect to make such "heatsink bars" and it's much cheaper as to by extruded heatsinks than looked similar.

 

[Randomblame]

Oh, and what is max voltage for these connectors on strips? I plan to fill about 350V in CC mode with them.

Wagos? 600v! But most COB holders do not allow 350v and you need to solder the COB's if you build strings with that much voltage.