can an led light match a 1000 wat hps

Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Yodaweed said:
You are mentally retarded, i have been growing with LEDs longer than you have even been growing why the fuck do you think i need to fix my environment when i am crushing it.

It's quite obvious you don't know shit about LEDs or you wouldn't be recommending UV diodes.
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Haha, I've 38years of growing in my diary, lol! The only one mentally retarded are you, mate.
I did not recommend, I said, they exsist and one "can" used them. That these diodes need often to be replaced is another thing. To date, the most efficient method to add these wavelength are still good UVB bulbs like the FlowerPower T12 or the PureUV T5 bulb but that's another story.

When you get consistantly better results with HPS you either have a bad LED light or you do not set your environment properly for LED growing. To use LED and HPS in the same room is a bad idea because there is no perfect environment for either the HPS or the LED side. Thousands of pro growers switched to LED and they all say they get better results. The only one still claiming the opposite are you.
Ergo, you're either lying because you like to act like a troll and always swim against the tide or you consistently do something wrong.
As simple as that..
 
maxlev

maxlev

Well-Known Member
Yodaweed said:
You are mentally retarded, i have been growing with LEDs longer than you have even been growing why the fuck do you think i need to fix my environment when i am crushing it.

It's quite obvious you don't know shit about LEDs or you wouldn't be recommending UV diodes.
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Lets thunk that through to detect any mental instability, if present.

Randomblame has been growing shrubbery for 38 years.
(his beard must be as grey as mine coz I started in 79)

You "Yodaweed" have been growing shrubbery with LED`s for longer than Randomblame has been growing shrubbery.

So therefore, logically, LED grow lights (for shrubbery) have been around for longer than 38 years.

Far canal.
If fair dinkum, LED`s have not advance much, development has been at an extremely stoned snails pace.
 
Porky101

Porky101

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Haha, I've 38years of growing in my diary, lol! The only one mentally retarded are you, mate.
I did not recommend, I said, they exsist and one "can" used them. That these diodes need often to be replaced is another thing. To date, the most efficient method to add these wavelength are still good UVB bulbs like the FlowerPower T12 or the PureUV T5 bulb but that's another story.

When you get consistantly better results with HPS you either have a bad LED light or you do not set your environment properly for LED growing. To use LED and HPS in the same room is a bad idea because there is no perfect environment for either the HPS or the LED side. Thousands of pro growers switched to LED and they all say they get better results. The only one still claiming the opposite are you.
Ergo, you're either lying because you like to act like a troll and always swim against the tide or you consistently do something wrong.
As simple as that..
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I wish I read this post 3 years ago.


Running hps and led in the same room is very difficult and simply not recommended.
 
Yodaweed

Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
CobKits said:
thats correct, the fixture's "light source" (a bare bulb, when new) , generates 2100 umol, thats pretty well established. its also very well established (multiple independent test going back years), that the system level efficiency of a gavita DE is about 1.7 umol/J

https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0099010

https://chilledgrowlights.com/independent-lab-reports/gravita-pro-1000-de-hps-at-1000w-goniometer-lab-report

https://chilledgrowlights.com/independent-lab-reports/gravita-pro-1000-de-hps-at-1150w-goniometer-lab-report

its also well established that there are no shortage of LED lights that independently test over 2.0 umol/J, some over 2.2 umol/J

you can nitpick all your other points about whether or not a single point source of light delivers light more effectively to the plants than an array, etc (most people would disagree but there is at least some platform for a debate, unlike the very fundamental efficiency numbers above)
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CobKits said:
only if your HPS crops are really lacking due to some more-easily-remedied-by-LED situation like heat stress. I wouldnt expect crops grown properly under either light to be "way better"
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That's right, both light sources will pretty much give the same quality of buds only difference is the price of the fixture and the amount of electric it uses, you may save 100-200 watts per 1000w hps to do a proper replacement, this bullshit about a 600w LED replacing a 1000w hps is straight up lies by people who suck ass at growing with HPS lights or have an agenda. Until you show me a proper side by side i don't believe a word you say. Not to mention you and bobby G aren't even experienced growers and haven't been in the grow game very long so honestly i don't think you have as much to offer as you think you do. You may know how to assemble LEDs but you don't know how to grow quality weed under them, ive seen you guys grow struggles and ugly ass plants that look like they want to die from all the deficiencies they have, i am not impressed.
 
Yodaweed

Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Bahaha!
HPS contains a hell lot of yellow and orange light but not half as much red and much less like white LED's. CMH has red but HPS- also the 2200°k bulbs- have only little red...
Warm white HPS...
View attachment 4197878

Warm white LED..

View attachment 4197875

Every single reason you've given is nonsense and shows that you have no idea about lighting. Not even a bit ...
Light is light no matter how you measure it. Terms like μMol/s, PAR, PPF and PPFD are not an invention of the lighting industry it is the only way to determine how many photons hit an area per second. Not more and not less!
In addition, plants NEED blue light; if they do not get it you get only skinny stalks that would bend and fall all over the place after only 4 weeks of flowering as they can not hold the weight of the buds.
Yes, blue diodes are the base for most white LED's but it depends only on the phosphor mix how many blue photons comes thru. A 2200 or 1750°k chip for instance would have less blue compared to HPS.

Maybe you are a great gardener who achieves great results with HPS! But with LEDs you did something wrong so far!
If you use LED's, you have to do it right! If you continue to work with 25°C and 50% RH it can not work!!!

LED beats HPS no matter if SE or DE and there are many grow threads with LED's that support it... also here in the LED section are LED vs HPS threads. 550w is comparable to a SE HPS and for a DE bulb it needs ~650w to get an equal amount of photons on the canopy. 2100μMol is the total photon output(PPF) but that's not what reach your canopy. With wall and reflector loss it's mabye half that much. You need a 360° vertical setup to use all light produced and even than it's not 2100μMol what reach the canopy.

Lern finally how to use LED, mate!
There is something more to do than just changing the bulbs..
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Enjoy your bloated PAR numbers because your lights have too much blue in them and hardly any red/orange spectrum.

I'll keep growing my plants under my heat lamps and getting pounds , enjoy your few ounce harvests.
 
Lordhooha

Lordhooha

Well-Known Member
maxlev said:
Lets thunk that through to detect any mental instability, if present.

Randomblame has been growing shrubbery for 38 years.
(his beard must be as grey as mine coz I started in 79)

You "Yodaweed" have been growing shrubbery with LED`s for longer than Randomblame has been growing shrubbery.

So therefore, logically, LED grow lights (for shrubbery) have been around for longer than 38 years.

Far canal.
If fair dinkum, LED`s have not advance much, development has been at an extremely stoned snails pace.
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You keep saying shrubbery makes me think of Monty python and the holy grail. We are the knights of knee lol
 
C

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
BTW,
a 1000w rig made of QBv2 has at least 2.670μMol/s PPF calculated with 55% efficiency. Osram new Square series in deephred reach 3,91μMol/J efficiency. A lamp with 1000w made with this diodes would have 3.900μMol/s PPF. Add 150w coolwhite and you have the same power draw like a DE and PPF would be +4000μMol/s. Still questions?
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A deep red with 3.91umol/J. This is exactly why say PPF can be just as misleading as power if allowed be to mislead. (QES vs efficiency, which is basically the same argument).

If you think efficiency is misleading because a blue lamp will seem better than a red lamp, the same is true with QES. If you're boasting the QES of a hyperred source, you're either misleading yourself, or trying to mislead others.

Knowing that power and PPF tell you the same with similar caveat, you can use which is more intuitive for what you're doing. What we're doing is paying for electricity to run a light, making efficiency a more intuitive value than umol/J. I still think you're all wasting time by converting power to PPF.
 
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Porky101

Porky101

Well-Known Member
Yodaweed said:
That's right, both light sources will pretty much give the same quality of buds only difference is the price of the fixture and the amount of electric it uses, you may save 100-200 watts per 1000w hps to do a proper replacement, this bullshit about a 600w LED replacing a 1000w hps is straight up lies by people who suck ass at growing with HPS lights or have an agenda. Until you show me a proper side by side i don't believe a word you say. Not to mention you and bobby G aren't even experienced growers and haven't been in the grow game very long so honestly i don't think you have as much to offer as you think you do. You may know how to assemble LEDs but you don't know how to grow quality weed under them, ive seen you guys grow struggles and ugly ass plants that look like they want to die from all the deficiencies they have, i am not impressed.
Click to expand...

I am doing side by side.

My 500w leds seem to be doing just as good if not better than my De 1000w hps.


I'm not sharing photos, so either take my word or call me a liar.
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
churchhaze said:
A deep red with 3.91umol/J. This is exactly why say PPF can be just as misleading as power if allowed be to mislead. (QES vs efficiency, which is basically the same argument).

If you think efficiency is misleading because a blue lamp will seem better than a red lamp, the same is true with QES. If you're boasting the QES of a hyperred source, you're either misleading yourself, or trying to mislead others.

Knowing that power and PPF tell you the same as power with similar caveat, you can use which is more intuitive for what you're doing. What we're doing is paying for electricity to run a light, making efficiency a more intuitive value than umol/J. I still think you're all wasting time by converting power to PPF.
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Lol, I did not calculate, I simply picked up the numbers from Osram Square deep-red datasheet. But I agree it's easier to use the term per watt. I only wanted to stay "political" correct and don't mix physical units / concepts. This can also be misleading... but I know what you mean, mate!
 
nevergoodenuf

nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
Porky101 said:
I am doing side by side.

My 500w leds seem to be doing just as good if not better than my De 1000w hps.
Click to expand...
Any chance you have a wattmeter? I have been trying to get the actual draw of a DE on high but have gotten it yet.
Just so you know, the kill-a-watt meters will work on 240v. I have tested it on mine a couple times.
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Why do you think the light of a warm white LED looks orange? Because there is none? BS!
CRI80 warm white(2500, 2700, 3000 up to 3500°k) has only a small 7-25% peak around 450nm and a big one at 605nm(deep orange). For this reason warm white looks orange, mate!
The white diode in the vidio was at least 5000 or 6000°k coolwhite but they only showing the centeroid wavelength to prove their BS claims. They also did not consistently use top bin diodes so a 1w 630nm diode could achieve more PAR like 1w deep red. This test is as useless as the home made Ulbricht sphere, lol!
I've rarely heard so much nonsense about light as in this video.
They self sell lights with extremely high center hotspots and PAR numbers but with crappy uniformity and poor coverage and I will not even go into the myth with "penetration".

Most modern HPS/CMH bulbs also have an increased blue part for a reason, btw. And also the 2200°k bulbs have at least 5% blue. All light sources marked with °kelvin are white light and white always has a blue part, a green and a red one.
So HPS is not just yellow-orange ..
Blue is not useless; plants acctually "need" blue light maybe not so much for photosynthesis but for signaling and other things. Blue photons also carry almost twice as much energy like deep red photons. A plant grown without blue will turn spindly and eventually they will bend over because they can not hold its weight. Only with a certain amount of blue(10PAR/w per m² is enough) you get stable plants with stable branches.
Plants need all the wavelength not only a few. In millions of years they have adapted optimally to the solar spectrum. How do you come up with the idea that HPS light is comparable to it and is the best to grow plants?
The term PAR is misleading the true value is PAR/w and only descript how much energy is converted into light within 400 and 700nm. Therefor they read 0 & 0 for a far red diode. For this reason it will be soon officially changed to 350-780nm or so.
Your DE Gravita only have ~400PAR/w on high settings that means ⅔ of the energy is wasted in either heat or unusable wavelength. Current warmwhite diodes convert up to 60% and more energy into light..
I can not belive you don't wanna see this.
From me you can use them(hps) until you are old, I give a fuck! But stop posting your hater nonsense! Nobody needs that! Go back to the HPS area there are more peeps which agree with you or crawl finally back under the stone you come from.

 
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